Nepal
Khumbu Pasanglamhu

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    • Day 24

      Trekking Tag 8: Everest Basecamp 🫶

      April 30 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ -5 °C

      Heute ist es endlich soweit! Das Everest Bascamp liegt einen Tagesmarsch vor uns. Wir starteten den Tag wie jeden: „same same 07.00 breakfast 7.30 ready to go“. Nach ca. einer Stunde schaute ich auf meine Uhr und wir waren schon gut über 5000 m.ü.M. - nun haben wir also auch diese Marke geknackt. Wir liefen langsam durch Landschaften, die etwas an Star Wars erinnerten. Immer noch eher leicht bekleidet wegen der warmen Sonne und nach knapp 3 Stunden, weil es auf den engen und steinigen Wegen zu Stau kam, erreichten wir unser späteres Nachtlager in Gorkha Shep auf 5100 m.ü.M.
      Kurz ausruhen, Lunch und umpacken. Nur noch etwa 2 Stunden bis zum Basecamp! Wir starteten natürlich super motiviert, aber die Höhe machte uns das erste Mal wirklich etwas zu schaffen. Dann endlich hinter dem nächsten Hügel konnten wir es sehen, weiterkämpfen und knapp unter 2 Stunden waren wir an unsrem Ziel, dem Everest Bascamp! ENatürlich zuerst das WC ausprobieren 😉 Dann Fotos gemacht und einfach die Stimmung und die Umgebung aufgesogen. Schliesslich wurde heute ein Traum war!
      Leider mussten wir uns auch wieder verabschieden und den doch anstrengenden Weg wieder zurücklaufen. Todmüde, aber auch sehr glücklich wieder zurück in Gorkha zum Znacht und zur letzten Nacht auf dieser Höhe.
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    • Day 13

      Day 13: Pikey Peak Base Camp to Junbesi

      April 2 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      Slept up against the outdoor wall of the shack at base camp, I spent the night huddled up with my water filter and electronics in my sleeping bag with me to save them from the bitter cold wind which spilled between the wall's wooden planks. And apart from synchronous 2 am awakenings to glug some icy water and stave off our severe dehydration, we appeared to be clear of any signs of altitude sickness.

      Cue 4:45 am and our plan kicks into action, mashing our things into our bags and throwing on our warmest layers to brave the strong icy crosswind of the dark dawn up to the peak. But we weren't alone, and in fact, we weren't nearly the first people to set off for the summit; the pastel colours of the sky revealing the lengthy line of trekkers making their pilgrimage to look out upon Nepal's 8000-metre monsters on the horizon. Among them: Everest, Lhotse, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Makalu, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Kangchenjunga, all iconic names towering and jostling for space in one big line which seemed to expand from western Nepal one way to the Indian border in the east (though to be honest we struggled picking out exactly which mountain was which). We soaked in the view for a while even after almost every other trekker had moved on (and also after Thomas had made me take a photo of him with literally everything). Once we did decide to move on, Thomas couldn't help but run up the second summit at 4064 m, while I sat and admired looking down on a drifting plane from above.

      Following 500 m of descent, the adrenaline had long worn off, and we stopped for some breakfast to fend off our feelings of being gruesome: having not eaten, nor drank while sweating hard in clammy warm clothes with the sun now shining. Breaking up our brunch to have with some chat with welshman Rob and Portuguese Raul, we took off again to finish our long descent back down into the valley. Other than handing out some chocolate to Nepalese children during a lunch stop, the rest of the day became a simple trundle into the village of Junbesi, where we have struck gold with this gem of a teahouse, albeit containing a very naughty cat who kept trying to steal our dinners. But regardless, had my first hot shower since Kathmandu, and god it feels good to be clean!!
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    • Day 14

      Day 14: Junbesi to Ringmu

      April 3 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Leaving our packs behind in Junbesi, we decided to take a short break out of our trek and instead took a morning stroll up to Thubten Choling, the largest Buddhist monastery in Nepal. A huge untroubled community of nuns and monks living harmoniously in a 3000 m village embellished with intricate colourful ornaments. I have to say, it's the first time I've ever visited any place of religious significance and realised that this could easily be a salvation for its members. We saw the prayer wheels inscribed with mantras rotating due to the cleverly engineered flow of water, while robe-wearing monks roamed between vibrant buildings amid tranquil chiming and all the children seemed to be learning to make pottery at school. After wandering questionably into a very holy looking building, we found a place to buy some prayer flags, beautifully hand painted postcards, and a notebook handmade with an ancient paper making technique. It was such a peaceful place, and honestly, I'm not religious myself, but if I was, Buddhism would be the one for me. (And we did also buy toilet paper there, so maybe that'll make my holes holy after all?)

      Returning to our lodge in Junbesi, we each devoured another of our favourite pizzas yet and some cadbury's we'd wangled at a shop, before making haste in the heat onward on the trail. A stuffy ascent sent us up to Phurtheng, where I decided to stop to enjoy the view over a cup of tea. Here, the host of the teahouse was a very sweet guy, a Sherpa who had lived there his whole life, and entertained our stop by explaining the extent of the traditional route and how the sections from Jiri had suffered hugely in business since most people now choose to fly into Lukla. One thing about him, just as is common with many Nepalis, was just how humble he was, placing his hands together almost in prayer and grinning with a huge smile in response to every 'namaste'. Ending the day with a further down then up through a valley via a hanging bridge, we have called it a day in Ringmu, where a busier teahouse continues to wane our wearies.
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    • Day 15

      Day 15: Ringmu to Jubing

      April 4 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      A funny one today. The hubbub of activity outside our door at the busy guesthouse made us hesitant to leave our beds, and only once our not so friendly Russian neighbours had cleared off, we emerged from our room for some breakfast. Eventually we set off for the day as late as 09:30, making the laborious ascent up to the top of the pass, 3071 m at Taksindu La. Here, after a pause for some sweeping views, we were shepherded for a while by a friendly black dog, who we dubbed 'Shishapangma' in homage to the 8027 m Tibetan mountain. Our friendly accomplice sadly didn't follow us for long though, and the 1500 m+ of elevation loss that followed became a feat of lengthy concentration and accurate foot placement. And yet somehow, as we'd descended onto perhaps the easiest terrain of the entire day: a dusty, descending road, I clearly lost my concentration and rolled my ankle, taking a tumble and scuffing my left knee. Patching up the blood in Nunthala and filling up on some bland (to Thomas's delight) spaghetti and apple pie in a fine teahouse, we soon got back to our descent. And boy did we descend, down to 1490 m, the lowest altitude we will experience for the remainder of the trek. With it now being Thomas' turn to question the motions of his stomach and pounding of his head, we then ascended back up again to Jubing, where we are once again the only guests. Over dinner, we discussed our dream meal each to distract from the heavily heaped greens on our noodles and took it in good spirits to pass out for another day.Read more

    • Day 42

      2e jour 🤯 ↗️↘️↗️↘️

      March 27, 2023 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      Aujourd'hui c'est une journée sans un mètre de plat qui nous attend !
      Nous partons de notre lodge (2300m d'altitude) vers 6h45, et entamons une grande descente caillouteuse pour atteindre le point le plus bas de notre parcours, 1480m d'altitude.
      À cet endroit se trouve un superbe pont suspendu pour enjamber un rivière. C'est une grande classique dans les montagnes Népalaises. C'est super impressionnant de passer dessus, ce sont des ponts, d'une centaine de mètres souvent, qui bougent énormément pour encaisser les vibrations de nos pas.

      Après une pose shooting à cet endroit, nous avons attaqué la longue montée qui nous attendait pour rejoindre le prochain village pour la pause repas.
      Mais suite à un manque de vigilance, nous avons pris la mauvaise direction, et avons atterri au beau milieu de terrasses d'un autre village.
      C'est ici que nous avons rencontré un ancien guide, plus ou moins retraité, qui nous a offert le thé, puis il nous a carrément accompagné jusqu'au prochain village en passant par des chemins inconnus de nos cartes. Au total, c'est encore 650m de dénivelé positif d'effectués.
      Je trouve ça incroyable ces villages complètement perdus au milieu des montagnes. Ils vivent en autonomie totale avec leurs plantations, et surtout ils sont à plusieurs jours de marches de la moindre petite ville !

      Une fois notre classique dal bhat avalé, nous avons poursuivi notre route.
      Petite descente, puis grosse montée de 400m de dénivelé dans un mix d'escaliers, de cailloux, et de pentes très raides.

      Je me sentais bien et j'avais de supers sensations avec mes bâtons, donc j'ai décidé de la faire à fond juste pour le goût de l'effort physique 😍
      Une fois en haut, j'ai déposé mon sac à une lodge, et je suis redescendu chercher Leo qui était un peu plus à la peine. Nous sommes arrivés vers 15h.
      Ensuite, petite douche éclair (l'eau est absolument glaciale), petite sieste, et grosse séance d'étirements avant le repas
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    • Day 10

      Bridges and rocks

      October 2, 2023 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      After a nice cozy sleep, ALLE and I had rice pudding with honey for Brekky which was very filling.
      Today was challenging. A slightly shorter day but a very big and strenuous walk. There was lots of rain overnight which again left the track slippery but luckily the rain held off.
      The one part of the track we had all been dreading was today- up and over a big rock formation, lucky they had put in a chain to help. We also had lots of waterfall crossings today and needed lots of help from Sherpa Tendi as they were slippery and flowing fast.
      We arrived at our destination at Toktou where we had visited for lunch in 2020. It was so nice to stop by lunch and have some relax time.
      ALLE and I shared a bowl of soup which we ate by the fire.
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    • Day 16

      Day 16: Jubing to Puiya

      April 5 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      If yesterday was the downhill day, then today was definitely the uphill one, with 1,500+ m of steep ascents up through Kharikhola, Bupsa and Kari La.

      Before all that scrambling though, just leaving for the morning as usual became something of a struggle. And not for any of the normal reasons: as we'd left our window open while packing up our things, a monstrous winged beast kamikazed its way into our room like some buzzing Chinook locking onto its target. We both took one look at this thing and noped our way out of that situation, fleeing our room without hesitation, deserting our belongings and hiding behind the door from the wrong side. This insect, which we later discovered to be called a mammoth wasp (literal species name), was MASSIVE, with a chunky black torso and a buzz like an industrial lawn mower. Once we'd waited out the 'death hornet' as we'd called it, to leave back out through the window from which it came, we were able to make our way, but quickly came across another oddity in nature, witnessing streams of caterpillars following one another everywhere and all over the forest, apparently going off on little adventures to pupate into butterflies together.

      On the more human side of the climb however, our progress was slow in the heat, and we worked our way laboriously up to Bupsa for some lunch. Here, Thomas was particularly feeling some struggles on the ascent, but we took the time to unwind over some mango juice and spaghetti while a small Nepalese toddler took an eager interest in us. The way up from Bupsa to Kari La proved much friendlier despite the elevation gain, especially with the wider, more gentle paths which are used for jeeps up until Thamdanda. Between Kari La and Puiya, we witnessed whole herds of horses (or maybe mules given their donkey likenesses?) hauling supplies and gas bottles up the mountainside, and then the end of the road (/dirt track) where colossal landslides had taken place, trapping some vehicles and straight up destroying others. This evening, we've styled out our exhaustion by going head to head playing cards, where of course I won, (but Thomas might tell you differently.)
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    • Day 28

      Days 27-29: Pangboche to Paiya

      April 17 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

      Day 27: Pangboche to Namche
      A fairly dull and drab day as we continued to retrace our steps and I continued to not feel great. Up until this point, we'd been approached by several yaks, all of which had moved majestically around us when passing, allowing us to admire them as the beautiful beasts they are. Today was different; on three separate occasions we had to practically run, dodge or manhandle oncoming yaks to avoid being impaled on their bullish horns. Maybe we just caught the entire species of yak on a bad day, but when they don't want to move for you, you either damn well move for them, or choose to be turned into hiker jam. Once we'd returned jam-free to the local centre of Namche, we chose to stay at the same teahouse as we had originally, copping an ensuite room where we were both able to wash for the first time since we'd last been able to in Namche (and god, that felt great).

      Day 28: Namche to Chaurikharka
      I enjoyed this day. We woke up bright and early and gave our legs a well versed workout by heading back up to the Tenzing Norgay statue and lookout. Previously, the distant view to Everest had been blocked by clouds, but a beautiful morning meant we could enjoy the view in its splendour. The clear weather remained all day, and we made good progress on our descent, minus the part where I was attacked by a cow (no, seriously). Wandering along the path in my direction as hundreds of animals had done daily, this cow clearly decided it just did not like the look of me (who can blame it), and swerved its head steadily but menacingly towards me, its horn catching my arm. Still, other than causing confusion, no damage had really been done and we continued onto Chaurikharka. At our teahouse here, we were back to much quieter surroundings and the owner's 5-year-old energetic son, Kaji, was overjoyed to play catch with us using what seemed to be a tuft of yak fur as a ball (it was as wholesome as he was sweet, bless him.)

      Day 29: Chaurikharka to Salleri
      In the morning, the teahouse owner presented both of us with a white scarf, called a khata in Buddhism. The khata is a symbol of purity, honour and respect, and is given as a gesture of safe passage, for which we were flattered to receive. The day's walking itself was pretty miserable in my books though: again, feeling dodgy, retracing familiar scenery, faced with monumental climbs, and slowed by the constant flow of abused horses (and their everpresent dung). To continue the theme of animal attack, one horse even squared up to me too. Thereafter, we even found ourselves doing some vertical bushwhacking through steep, overgrown vegetation to find our way to the top of the Chutok La pass. Once at the top, we overheard the ominous crashing of landslides while stopping for lunch. It wasn't until over the other side that we found out what the crashing really was: landslides, yes; but man-made landslides from the hurling of colossal boulders over the cliffside. The idea here was to extend the reach of the jeep road, with heavy machinery drilling away into the cliffs, offering any debris up to the determination of gravity, much to the misfortune of anyone below. Despite the questionable construction health and safety policy, we passed the diggers and wearily ambled into Paiya. And thus, our 300 km trek was complete! It had taken 27,000 metres of elevation change and almost zero underwear changes, but we had done it. We didn't have long to mull over the situation though, as we were immediately coaxed into a jeep ride to Salleri... (See next)
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    • Day 15

      EBC Finisher ❣️ Back in Lukla

      April 15, 2023 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      Das war es nun also 🙏🏼 11 Tage nach unserem aufregenden Flug nach Lukla sind wir wieder zurück wo unser Weg begann... 👣 Wir haben es tatsächlich geschafft, wir sind gesund geblieben, wir haben wundervolle Menschen getroffen und sind das ein oder andere Mal ein wenig über uns hinaus gewachsen... Wir haben gefroren und geschwitzt, ich hab nicht nur einmal geweint, haben auch gestritten, wir haben uns nach einer Dusche gesehnt und die absolut zu schätzen gelernt! Haben das Essen genossen und die Gastfreundschaft der Nepalesen. Und täglich haben wir staunend in der Natur gestanden und sind uns abschließend auch bewusst, dass solche Eindrücke unglaublich und mit Geld nicht zu bezahlen sind 🙏🏼 Der Letzte Tag heute von Tok Tok nach Lukla war mit etwa 10 km im Vergleich zu vielen Tagen davor eher eine gemütliche Wanderung, aber Stufen, viele Stufen als Endgegner hat natürlich jeder Tag hier 🥵 Wieder hatten wir Zeit, das Aufblühen der Natur zu bewundern, hier und da noch eine Rast einzulegen und nette Gespräche mit Weggefährten zu führen... Der Abschied von Karma Sherpa und seiner Frau fiel uns heute früh überhaupt nicht leicht. Eine so herzliche Begegnung ❤️ so persönliche Gespräche... So ein netter Ort und der perfekte Tag für echtes Eintauchen in die nepalesische Kultur. Wir haben gelernt von Yaks und Naks, Sumcuks und den Unterschieden. Wir wissen ein wenig mehr über das Bildungssystem, die gesundheitliche Versorgung und die Absicherung der Sherpas... Wir haben perfekt geschlafen, konnten auch hier wieder absolut damit leben, dass die Toilette nicht gerade westlichem Standard entsprach... Stattdessen haben wir uns am Tee und dem leckeren Essen erfreut, mit Gemüse aus dem eigenen Garten. Frisch und zwar richtig frisch zubereitet 🙏🏼 und unseren ersten kleinen Schnaps, einen landestypischen Raksi, haben wir uns gestern Abend auch gegönnt, denn zu feiern gab es gestern auch noch das nepalesische Neujahrsfest, happy 2080! 😁 wir sind dankbar für diesen Stop auf unserem Weg, haben auch versprochen wiederzukommen. Vielleicht im nächsten Jahr auf unserer Weltreise, wenn es passt sehr gerne... Nayeli wird es lieben, hier mit vielen lebensfohen Kindern und den Tieren einfach Kind zu sein 💫 wir werden sehen ❣️ unsere letzte Nacht hier verbringen wir in der Himalaya Lodge direkt am Tenzing Hillary Flughafen und können vom Zimmer aus die Startbahn sehen 😀
      Mit nicht allzu vielen, aber ein paar besonderen Fotos beenden wir hier nun den offiziellen Part unserer Reise, denn der Weg war größtenteils bekannt 😉 Wir verbringen heute den Abend, wenn alles gut geht und sie rechtzeitig hier ankommen, noch mit ein paar lieben Menschen die Teil unserer Reise waren und auch morgen mit uns zurück nach Kathmandu fliegen... Noch ein bisschen Träumen, Austauschen, stolz sein... Kontakte tauschen, Bilder anschauen und noch einmal genießen, dass es ein besonderer Schlag Menschen ist, der hier in Nepal auf Reisen geht 😍 weltoffen, herzlich, hilfsbereit, naturverliebt, ein bisschen Idealisten und Träumer, ein bisschen Hippie oder Aussteiger. Auf jeden Fall aber mit ganz ganz viel Sinn für Erfahrungen, die das Leben bereichern 💯 Morgen früh um halb 8 geht unser Flug ( also hoffentlich, denn sicher ist hier nicht besonders viel, und Uhrzeiten schon gar nicht 😜) und wir haben dann noch einmal die Gelegenheit für ein bisschen Adrenalin auf dem
      "gefährlichsten Flughafen der Welt" 😂 ich bin mir sicher, dass wir auch diesmal wieder heil ankommen 🙏🏼 aus Kathmandu werde ich dann für die restlichen Tage sicher noch einmal berichten, denn nach dem verdienten Ausruhen für 1 bis 2 Tage werden wir uns schon noch die ein oder andere Sehenswürdigkeit anschauen... Habt nochmals lieben Dank fürs Mitreisen, Mitfiebern und Daumendrücken 🤩 Thank you, धन्यवाद, Namasté, wir sehen uns vielleicht zur nächsten Reise... Und nicht vergessen, selbst weiter zu träumen 🙏🏼🌍❣️
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    • Day 17

      Day 17: Puiya to Phakding

      April 6 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

      Today marks ten days of trekking, over 100 km of distance and 15,000 m of elevation changes from Jiri.

      Setting off from Puiya, the aroma of horse manure present in the air was at an all time high as whole schools of mules would come paraded through the narrow paths by strict horse masters, who took no invitation to beat their animals quite viciously and unnecessarily to keep them in line (horses and yaks are used to transport everything beyond where jeeps can access here). It was also interesting to witness the attempted extension of the jeep road, big JCB excavators drilling away at the cliffside presumably wanting to take accessibility as far as Namche. On our descent into Surke, the constant stream of aircraft coming into land at nearby Lukla was quite the sight, and Lukla itself is quite the airport. A steep runway barely 500 m in length, bookended by a sheer cliff one side and a sheer drop the other, just watching planes come into land was scary enough.

      After a hop back up to Chaurikharka for lunch, where I got my daily coke fix and we savoured spaghetti, an omelette and some chips, we finally merged onto the tourist trail beyond Lukla. And the difference was quite startling, with crowds of dazed looking old tourists bumbling through the much gentler and more commercialised path in constant streams of tour groups, each of which look comically like the team-building outing of some office company in Slough. This is quite a starked change for us, having gone from over a week of near-solitude to negotiating the hiker traffic. Still, we pushed on and finished in Phakding, where we found a practically luxurious alpine cabin style teahouse complete with en suite hot shower and western toilet! To celebrate, we gorged on pizza and I fell asleep before I even managed to find out that Bournemouth lost to Luton (then waking up at 3 am to write this, you're welcome goodbye.)
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