Nepal
Khumjung

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19 travelers at this place:

  • Day19

    Hub-schrab-schrab

    May 26 in Nepal

    Lukla Airport...keine Flüge seit 5 Tage...ich will hier RAUS!!!!! Es stehen weitere Abenteuer an, ich stinke, will duschen und zurück in die Zivilisation. Wir sind 4...die ersten 2 kommen am Vormittag raus. Warten...new news, Bijay? Hmmmmm, wait...
    Dann geht alles schnell, auf zum Heliport, kurz die Kreditkarte im Handheldterminal (is klar, ne?!) belasten, wir (Taru und ich) sind zusammen mit zwei Indern, einer US Frau und einem Französischen Indonesier ....und weg. Zurück nach Kathmandu, finally glad 😬Read more

  • Day86

    Mount Everest

    September 30 in Nepal

    Absolutely breathtaking (and a with filter because taking pictures out of the plane windows was hard).

    While the flight was just one hour and quite costly, it was totally worth it. Flying over those mountaintops, seeing just how large they are. The clouds moving in-between the peaks. Ahh it was amazing!

  • Day140

    At the bottom of the top

    December 1, 2016 in Nepal

    I'm too tired to write a long post. Most challenging day. We got close to the bottom of Mount Everest. Here, the altitude was getting to me. 5300m today. Sleeping at 4900m. Hiking was strenuous, every step takes all of your concentration. Now I'm ready for a long long sleep.

  • Day138

    Crossing the 4000m mark

    November 29, 2016 in Nepal

    Of course there's not an actual mark, but I knew we'd get to 4000 just before our tea house, which is at 4070 ;-) I can tell the altitude a bit as I'm going slower than usual, especially steep inclines take more time than they would otherwise. But we're in no rush and got to our destination around 3pm.

    We had a fantastic day! So many beautiful views, some even of Mount Everest (picture 4). Picture 5 shows you the last 40 minutes of our hike to our little tea house, which is the last building on the hilltop, where I'm chilling and writing this as you can see in picture 6 :-)Read more

  • Day142

    Tailwind trails

    December 3, 2016 in Nepal

    The morning was crazy windy, but as it was a tailwind, we did not complain and made our way south https://goo.gl/photos/LL2ierEhGg1Qinwu9

    Today was definitely one of the most scenic days! We took a less-travelled route going west, leading along a cliff with spectacular views and with a few mountain goats, joining us on the trail :) We got to Phortse in the early afternoon and since it was a beautiful sunny day, I finally got to do all my laundry. And had great chats with the teahouse owners who became so wealthy since the tourists started coming to their region, they sent all their 4 kids to college in the US. Interesting stories: these people live 2-3 days walking from the next airport and 5-6 days from the next bus stop. What a life!Read more

  • Day141

    Fleeing elevation :)

    December 2, 2016 in Nepal

    Starting today, we're going downhill and my headache is thanking me! The fast and steep incline above 5000m yesterday was a bit too much... ;)

    We got to our guest house in the early afternoon and took a half rest day. Most of the afternoon, I played Nepali, Swiss and German card games with fellow hikers and guides. Feeling great and energized again!

  • Day9

    Day 6 - Tengboche to Dengboche

    January 4, 2017 in Nepal

    Today was a really hard slog. I think the days of being sick and not eating properly have caught up with me.
    It is starting to get really cold. I woke up to frozen toothpaste and sunscreen and all our hoses on our hydration packs froze as we walked!

  • Day17

    Dingboche to Thukla via Pheriche

    April 27, 2017 in Nepal

    Elevation - 4620 m

    Our destination today was Thukla but I had a very bad night of coughing so we decided to stop in at Pheriche where there is a medical clinic. Depending on what the doctor advised I would either go on, stay in Pheriche or go down while the others carried on.

    We got our usual start at about 7:45 am and got to the clinic about an hour later, a few minutes before they opened. This clinic is really cool. Younger doctors volunteer for two months at a time. Westerners pay to be seen and for any medications, etc. This pays for the locals to receive medical treatment for only 50 rupees which is about 50 cents! The doctor told us about a local man who had appendicitis and needed IV drugs and to be airlifted to Kathmandu. All this only cost him 50 rupees.

    I met with the doctor and he listened to my chest and heart and checked my oxygen levels and pulse and they were all good. He said I was doing everything right and gave me some cough syrup to help me sleep. He said I would be at a way greater risk of developing altitude problems so I'd have to watch for that. I felt so relieved that I could go on and that I wasn't developing pneumonia. After paying the $80 US for the visit we carried on to Thukla.

    It was going to be a short trek today. From now on the days are short as we climb to higher elevations. We walked through a beautiful valley surrounded by sharp jagged cliffs. The last hour we climbed up to Thukla. This is a very small collection of buildings. It seemed that there was really only one tea house there. We ate lunch in a sun room, organized our gear and then had a whole afternoon to kill. We collected in the dining room were we visited with two very interesting British fellows. They had saved for a couple of years and then had sold up everything and had commenced travelling around the world. We had some interesting conversations, and finally at about 4:00 pm the stove was lit. We were relieved as we were all cold but then commenced the toxic brew of yak poo and cooking smoke. The toxic brew won out because the elevation made it very cold and we stayed in the dining room.

    Eventually they stopped adding fuel to the fire so we wandered off to our cold, cold rooms. This was one of the dirtiest, coldest and most miserable places yet. I'll be glad to get out of here.
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  • Day15

    Tengboche to Dingboche

    April 25, 2017 in Nepal

    Elevation - 4410 m

    It was a beautiful, sunny, clear morning and we got great pictures of the surrounding mountains including the little bit of Everest.

    Our walk started downhill through a lovely Rododendron forest. They grow wild here and are in bloom everywhere. We climbed gradually up and after a town called Pangboche, we were above the tree line. Only scrubby junipers were growing and there is a considerable amount of environmental damage here. No one really follows a trail so large areas are trampled. Vegetation here is very fragile and takes a long time to regrow.

    We had another good tea house and we have discovered that we really lucked out when we got Bijay as our guide. He has been to Everest Base Camp 108 times and knows all the good tea houses, the names of all the mountains and every few minutes he runs into someone who seems really happy to see him. We love him. He has a great sense of humour and could walk these trails blind-folded.

    Our room has its own western toilet. This is a mixed blessing. Because of all the water you need to drink in a day, 4 to 5 litres, you end up peeing all night long. This means crawling out of a warm bed and baring your backside to the below freezong temps. Sitting on a cold toilet seat makes it that much worse and by the time your business is done, your teeth are chattering. And, to flush these things you dip a jug into an ice-cold bucket of water and pour it into the toilet. After, that you have to sanitize your hands with that gel stuff which results in frozen sausages for fingers. All in all, you usually wait till you're about to pee the bed before you venture out. But at least we didn't have to leave our room. In many tea houses you have to walk down a hall or even outside. This was luxury by comparison.

    We stayed here two nights to acclimatize to the altitude. There was a big dining room and we met lots of nice people. On the morning of the second day we climbed a big hill behind our tea house. This climb took us to the elevation that we would be sleeping at the next day. Doing this kind of thing is another way of helping acclimatization.

    Unfortunately my infection has moved into my lungs and I really wasn't feeling well. I had some antibiotics with me so I was wondering if they would help. I paid for wi-fi and texted our son Eric who has a good friend who is a pharmacist. His friend said the antibiotic I had was not really for my type of illness but that it would not react with the altitude meds I was already taking. I decided to start taking it anyway as I was desperate. In the afternoon Jon found a pharmacy and bought me a different kind of antibiotic which the clerk said would work better for the type of infection I had. The rules about drugs are very different here! I started with the new antibiotic and had a nap in the afternoon. I am really starting to worry about being able to make it to base camp as I feel like crap. And to make matters worse our guide has a fever and is also not feeling well. He told us that in all the trips he's done he has never been sick! Go figure!
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  • Day18

    Thukla back to Pheriche

    April 28, 2017 in Nepal

    Elevation - 4240 m

    Unfortunately, the toxic air brew wreaked havoc on my lungs and I spent most of the night coughing. Between the coughing and the trips to the toilet, I got very little sleep. I developed a headache and it hurt to take a breath. I was out of breath just getting dressed and tying my boots.

    I only had one more night to get through before I saw base camp but I just didn't think I could do it. I was worried about getting really sick in the middle of the night when nothing could be done. I had read information on altitude sickness and you can get sick really quickly. When I weighed it all out, I decided to give up on making it to base camp, go back to Pheriche and see the doctor again.

    It was a very difficult decision and I cried when I said goodbye. This has been a dream of mine since I was in my 20s and it was very hard to let it go but I didn't think it was fair to let myself get so sick that I would now be a problem for the rest of the group. I had said to myself before the trip that I would try not to pin the success of the trip solely on making it to base camp. I wanted to appreciate all the experiences along the way so that if I didn't make it, the trip wouldn't be a total loss. I was trying to channel my inner monk but was finding that very difficult and to tell truth I was totally pissed off at the world.

    After my teary goodbyes, Santos, one our porters, carried my bag and helped me down to Pheriche. Jon had left his bag at Thukla and the plan was that Santos would take me down then go back up to Thukla, get Jon's bag and join them in Lobuche. As we descended, I started to feel marginally better. My breathing was easier and I wasn't having so much trouble getting my breath.

    Bijay had sent a note with Santos which he gave to the proprietor of the Himalayan Hotel. It was too early to check in so I left my bag at the hotel and went to the medical centre. Santos explained my situation and then I sent him on his way back to Thukla. I saw a young Australian doctor who checked me out. I wasn't sick enough to be helicoptered out but he did think I would feel a lot better if I went down another 500 metres. Unfortunately, there was no way I could manage all my crap in my condition and I no way of letting the group know where I was. I decided to stay.

    A few days earlier, we had discussed the possibility of hiring a helicopter to take us from base camp to Lukla instead of walking down. After some discussion, we all agreed that we would do this. With the air at Everest base camp being so thin, our group would have to be shuttled two or three at a time to Pheriche (a happy coincidence) where we would then all climb aboard for the rest of the trip to Lukla. So the new plan was that I would stay in Pheriche for two nights and they would pick me up on the way down.

    After seeing the doctor, I checked in. I asked for a room with a toilet and got a queen size bed and a bathroom with a functioning (mostly) western toilet and, luxury of luxuries, a sink and mirror!!!

    The manager led me up to a lovely warm sunroom and brought me some hot lemon and toast and peanut butter. I then took advantage of the hot showers, put on some clean clothes and went back to the sunroom so my hair could dry. I had an afternoon nap and later in the dining room was able to take a call from Jon. I ate supper and visited with a young woman we had met earlier on the trail and then spent the evening sitting around the dining room stove chatting with some lovely young travellers.

    The next day after breakfast I had a walk around the village, watched helicopters coming and going and then spent the afternoon reading and catching up on this blog. I'm bored but feeling much better and ready to be moving on. I just hope the weather cooperates and I can get out of Pheriche tomorrow.
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Khumjung

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