Paredes de Coura

Final notes from yesterday first:

I did notice yesterday that when I dug out my phone to report into Mrs HtD at Head Office I had virtually no reception. After a bit of digging I found my phone was clinging onto a Portuguese network for grim death. Switching it off and on again (technology holds no fears for me) restored normal service on the Spanish network.

There’s more to Tui than someone passing through might appreciate. Good people, every facility one might want and - to my delight - nobody’s speaking to me in English. Credenciales sold in the cathedral should anyone want one.

This Xunta guide is looking more interesting the more I look at it. It does have all the usual pilgrim preamble on it and space for two (or more) stamps per day from Tui to Santiago. It also has a list of ‘what to see’ en-route which I’ll make use of. So far as Tui’s concerned - it’s worth not rushing through, the cathedral’s something to see (as is the collection of model churches grouped by area) and the pizzeria on the main street’s good and inexpensive.

The locals are torn in support between RM and Barca both of whom spent more of tonight’s match cheating and feigning injury than playing the game.

And then today:

Well, the plan came together, as my plans so often don’t.

Breakfast was conspicuous by its absence in Tui; the only obviously functioning bar was crammed by the Correos workforce and serving only slices of a massive sweet cake and coffee. Better than nothing.

A taxi did arrive at the Tui taxi rank and for a very reasonable €20 I reversed my progress into Portugal (where I temporarily got my hour back) and dropped me in Fontoura. About 12k from Tui to where I strolled back.

A lovely morning and shorts and a t-shirt were all I needed. I did spot a now-decorative solid cartwheel which I had seen in action on an ox-cart 30 years previously.

Finally a mid morning snack was found. ‘Pig bread’ - perfect. With marketing like that, who could refuse. Google translate’s got a lot to answer for. (A small schnitzel)

The major event of the morning was on my return to Valença; where it appeared from a distance that the Portuguese tourist board had commissioned a giant modernist installation putting two fingers up at Spain. (Photo)

Any civil engineers in the room? Good; I’ll go on.

It was two wind-turbine blades passing through town. These things are huge! Proceeding at walking pace and preceded by a team of enthusiastic electricians, these monsters were passing through the town centre. The electricians were dropping power-lines in real time for the vehicles to drive over, then re-rigging them straight away. It was quite amazing.

(If I’m not being totally clear; that huge big sticky-up thing which is about 50 meters long is mounted on the back of a truck and is being driven through the centre of a town, would that happen where you live? (Aussies and Kiwis; you’re excused))

The population of Valença had taken the opportunity to down-tools and take to the streets.

It did strike me as faintly humourous that someone had affixed a red rubber bung to the sharp end of the blades; I suppose my mother would have said ‘be careful, you could have someone’s eye out with that’

Back in Tui now having a few scoops and topping up my tan.

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