Portugal
Porto

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    • Dag 55

      Arrived in Porto

      15 mei 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

      Miles: 7.74 Steps: 18110
      Flights stairs: 28

      We flew from Madrid to Porto, Portugal this morning! I’ve always been interested in Portugal - debated moving here short term or even retiring here - so thought it would be nice to actually see it all first hand. We’ll see what I think after about ten days.

      On all travel days, we don’t schedule much to do - just wander the city, experience it, and get a feel for what we’re interested in seeing. We’ll only be in Porto for 48 hrs so not much time to mess around.

      When we landed, on exiting the plane we were greeted with 100% 60° Oregon, overcast sideways rain - first cold and rain we’ve really seen on this trip. Was quite the surprise, and according to the people we’ve talked to it’s the first rain in 30 days, will only last thru tomorrow and probably won’t rain for another month …. So … I guess we experience Porto in the rain.

      It settled down long enough for us to walk around the city and to take a boat ride on the main river thru town. The streets here are amazing — just narrow alleyways everywhere you look. And Porto is built on a hill, so there are HUNDREDS of steps wherever you go. The architecture is beautiful and they cover the buildings with these ceramic tiles — very unique.

      We decided we needed a break from “foreign food” and actually ate lunch at a Steak & Shake - it was awesome and felt like home.
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    • Dag 40

      Bat the bread, win a bread

      1 mei, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      A few months ago, I messaged Branna with what I was pretty sure was a revelation.

      Using lots of exclamation marks, I made proprietary noises about the concept of self care through disassociation, i.e, pretend there's a child that needs rest and nutrition and fun and love and dedicate yourself to its service. The child just happens to be you.

      I got the hump when she pointed out how fucking obvious and ancient that thinking is, but as a card carrying people pleaser, externalising a person to please works for me.

      This kid had an absolute whale of a time today. I said yes to everything. You're a bit wet? We'll have a sit down in that warm bar. You want one of those snacky things? We'll have two. That's shiny? Swipe the card babe. Tired? Nap time! I love you. I love you too. Midnight snack? Good idea.
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    • Dag 12

      Porto Historical Walking Tour

      17 mei, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      We started our day with a great breakfast variety in our hotel then took an uber to the start of our 3 hour walking tour. Angelica was our tour guide in Porto. My notes are a bit rough, but more to try to remember key bits of info or stories
      Highlights:
      St Francis church- gold leaf and tile

      In the 800's a soldier kept the Moors at bay w.King, so king gave him the land which is now a district of Porto

      Built cathedral as a fortress with 2 towers
      Order of importance:
      God
      Pope 
      Catholic kings
      Bishop ruled Porto
      Many Patron saints St Vincent -3 euros tower and view of city
      Story goes that St Vincent, on his pilgrimage, and their horse with the relics walked into this church and died so they thought that was a sign from God to stay in Porto.

      Public execution spot here also during dictatorship.
      Dictator 50 years in power brought it here to say watch out

      Over 49 churches

      Very Catholic

      Braga, also churches...all about praying

      Porto is know for hard working

      3-5 kg of gold in St Francis

      Port wine institute

      Camino trail signs w shell sun

      Old boats carry port

      Monastery above bridge

      Fado music is deep and melancholy. Deeply felt by the Portugese people and they sing about:
      Remember your sorrows, penas,
      which are feathers, and go away with the wind, but my sorrows stay with me. They are heavy.

      Santa Ana mother of Virgin Mary
      People come pray here

      In Gaia: 3 best things
      Wine houses for port
      Sunsets
      View of Porta

      Douro River with 2 bridges, one for king and one for the queen

      Portugese people are
      melancholy, were opressed through the long dictatorship
      They like to complain about everything.
      Glass not half full, its more like where's the water!!

      Henrique the navigator start of the Discovery Era - statue and on tiles in Sao Bento train Station

      Portugese chocolate stop- amazing
      Oils, chocolate, jams, olive pastes

      20,000 tiles hand painted in the
      Sao Bento train Station
      Tiles show Agriculture, wine, local festivals, religious processions
      Story around top is timeline from Roman Times to the arrival of the train
      Henry the Navigator 

      Most beautiful McDonalds in the world in the former Majestic Cafe
      This is where JKRowling wrote the first 2 Harry Potter books

      Francescina( means little french woman) sandwich of porto.
      A French man created it to see if Portugese women ( very conservative)would be more liberal like French women.

      2 churches side by side, one 16th century and the other 17th century separated by a 1.50m house in the middle. This was to avoid taxes because 2 churches could not share the same wall

      Sicamore trees in a park across from Justice Building
      Lady justice in front of justice building is not typical during dictatorship of Salazar. This one basically represented:
      "I see you, I don't care about justice and I might stab you first"...during dictatorship
      Typically, Lady Justice is blindfolded b/c she is fair, doesn't care your background or who you were, her scales represent fairness and she is not stupid, has the sword just in case!
      The park across the street has art installations which some say signify laughing at the Justice system???

      JkRowling connections, wrote 2 books in Majestic Cafe which is now McDonalds.
      Coincidences from her time living in Porto: Book store in Porto very similar to in her book and movies , griffin fountain, 2 churches joined by 1.50 m house, university students and cloaks, salazar character named after dictator

      Mayor wanted a 4 km stretch like Champs Elysses in Paris. Church was in the way and said no to moving it, so they built a building in front of that church with the same shape and one tower so you can't see that church at all now. That building is now the City hall!!

      St Clara Church - so beautiful
      100 to 150 nuns in cloister separated from public by gates with spikes on it. The public had to be at least 20m away from the nuns for privacy.
      Jacarinda wood used for the nuns chairs in the upper cloister is from Brazil. It is almost extinct so can be difficult to do restoration. They had an organ used to practice before doing actual masses.

      Gold leaf throughout the church was from Brazil. It was a tax payment to gov't who then gave some to the church

      They had images on their chairs to indicate which nun sat in each chair. Some images were made to remind the nuns how ugly the men were and as a reminder of their choice to become a nun. The images may have been requested by the nun because of an interest and images were chosen from medieval influence.
      The nuns' chairs were designed so they could rest their arms on the arms of the chairs and place the edge of their butt on image on the chair to rest and their dress covered this do they still looked like they were standing.
      The nuns would sing and the public thought it was the angels singing b/c they couldn't see the nuns above in the cloister.

      After the tour we went for lunch and tried the local Francescina dish. It was very good. We then visited the St Clara Church and returned to pick up some of the pastes from the chocolate shop. We went into a few shops here and there, walked across the top then returned on the bottom of the Luis I Bridge. We walked to the bus stayion to get back to our hotel in time for our meeting to get our bikes and information for the start of our cycling trip on the Coastal Camino tomorrow. Afterwards we had another charcuterie dinner together before heading to our rooms to pack and prep for tomorrow. A great day today👌
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    • Dag 17

      Porto

      11 mei, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Porto was great. Lots of hills...again. good training for our Camino. Churches, markets, and of course the most amazing MacDonald's I've ever seen...chandeliers and all. Lots of beautiful blue tiles .

      Our last night as a group was fun. River Cruise followed by Port tasting, delicious dinner, then more wine and music on a nearby Terrace.
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    • Dag 40

      A rare car-adjacent highlight

      1 mei, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      When you travel alone you can make an art out of idling, in a way that for all my progress I don't think I could achieve with almost anyone else - I'd be conscious of what they wanted to do, if they were bored/cold/tired.

      There's also nobody to tip the scales either way when you do something a bit *naughty* like trespass because hang on SURELY that's not still an operational mechanics?

      Although I don't think I really did. Surely it's quasi-public space? One raised eyebrow or attention attracting hollering and I'd have scuttled though. I told you that breakfast was a gateway to the criminal underbelly.

      Anyway. What a garage.
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    • Dag 218

      Porto und mein Start als Pilgerin

      15 mei, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Gestern Nachmittag bin ich gut in Porto gelandet und bin dann mit der Bahn direkt in die schöne Altstadt gefahren. Mein Hostel lag nur ein paar Häuser neben der wunderschönen Kathedrale, die ihr auf Bild 1 sehen könnt. Im Hostel angekommen habe ich schnell die letzten Utensilien aus meinem Backpack in meinen Pilgerrucksack gepackt und bin dann zum nächsten Postamt gegangen, welches mir auch der Hostelmitarbeiter empfohlen hat. Nach ca. 20 Minuten warten war ich an der Reihe und habe erklärt, dass ich meinen großen Wanderrucksack nach Santiago de Compostela schicken möchte. Dort gibt es eine Sammelstelle, die Koffer und Rucksäcke für 45 Tage aufbewahrt. Nach meine Ankunft in Santiago kann ich meinen Rucksack dort dann wieder abholen. Die Mitarbeiterin in der Post erklärte mir, dass ich meinen Rucksack für die Versendung in Klebeband einwickeln muss. Ich bin also in einen Supermarkt gegenüber, wie mir der Kollege meiner Bearbeiterin empfohlen hat. Fehlanzeige. Die Mitarbeiterin aus dem Supermarkt erklärte mir, dass es im Schreibwaren Geschäft ein paar Häuser weiter Klebeband gibt. Also hin da und wieder Fehlanzeige. Hier wies die Mitarbeiterin auf einen asiatischen Laden am Platz der Republik hin, um das Klebeband zu bekommen. Also bin ich die 10 Minuten dort hingelaufen und war langsam schon etwas genervt, weil ich den Rucksack ja auch die ganze Zeit mitschleppen musste. Im asiatischen Laden gab es aber auch nicht dieses Klebeband. Es war schon fast 18 Uhr und ich war langsam echt verzweifelt. Ich bin also wieder in die Richtung gelaufen aus der ich kam und habe nach Baumärkten gegoogelt, als vor meiner Nase ein weiteres Post Office auftauchte. Also rein da. Und endlich war das Glück mit mir und ich konnte meinen Rucksack hier unkompliziert für 25 Euro verschicken und die Mitarbeiterin der Post hat meinen Rucki mit Klebeband eingewickelt. Das war toll! Sehr erleichtert bin ich dann noch fix etwas Proviant für den nächsten Tag einkaufen gegangen. Danach habe ich einen falafel dürum gegessen und bin dann noch einmal bis zur Brücke in Porto spaziert. Auf dem Weg dorthin gabs noch die leckere lokale Süßigkeit Pastel de Nata. Endlich konnte ich Porto als Stadt nun auch etwas genießen. Ich konnte am Abend ein Glück gut schlafen und bin dann pünktlich am nächsten Tag um 9 Uhr an der Kathedrale von Porto gewesen, um meinen Pilgerpass und meine Jakobsmuschel abzuholen. Für Oma: Der Name „Jakobsmuschel" bezieht sich auf den heiligen Jakobus, der als Schutzpatron der Pilger gilt. Er erhielt die Jakobsmuschel als Erkennungszeichen und hat sie am Hut, am Mantel oder auf seiner Tasche getragen. Bis heute tragen viele Pilger und Pilgerinnen die Jakobsmuschel am Rucksack oder an der Kleidung als Erkennungszeichen.
      Nach meinem kleinen Foto Shooting bin ich dann direkt den Symbolen der Jakobsmuschel auf der Straße gefolgt. Leider habe ich die Symbole irgendwann nicht mehr gesehen und habe mir meine Jakobsweg App zur Hilfe genommen, die mir dann auch wieder den richtigen Weg gezeigt hat. Ein deutsches Pilger Pärchen hat mich kurze Zeit später angesprochen und gefragt wo es zu Kathedrale geht. Im Gespräch haben sie mir erzählt, dass ich gerade dabei bin den alten Küstenweg durchs Landesinnere zu nehmen. Ich war sehr froh, dass die beiden mir erklärt haben, wie ich auf den neuen Weg komme, der die ganze Zeit über an der Küste langführt, wie ich es eigentlich geplant hatte. Ich habe die zwei noch zur Kathedrale gebracht und bin dann nach 45 Minuten herumirren wirklich gestartet. Auf dem Weg habe ich mir noch schnell eine neue Sonnenbrille gekauft, da ich meine im großen Rucksack liegen lassen hatte. Dann hat mich beim grübeln darüber, ob ich 5 km mit der alten Straßenbahn abkürzen soll wie es viele Pilger und Pilgerinnen machen, ein Vogel angekackt. Na toll. Hoffentlich bringt das wenigstens Glück. Nachdem ich die kacke so gut es ging beseitigt habe, habe ich mich gegen das Bahnfahren entschieden. Ich bin einfach ein paar anderen Pilgern hintergelaufen, weil ich immer noch nicht so sicher war, wo der Weg eigentlich entlang geht. Auf dem neuen Küstenweg sind die Weg-Symbole mit der Muschel zu Beginn nämlich nicht vorhanden. Irgendwann habe ich ein Info Häuschen gefunden und mir dort eine Karte geholt. Endlich kann ich nun etwas entspannen, da ich jetzt auch sicher weiß wo der Weg langgeht. Ich bin nach ca 16 km eigentlich schon ziemlich fertig und dann fängt es auch noch an zu regnen. Allerdings ist die nächste Pilgerherberge noch etwas entfernt. Nach einer kurzen Kaffeepause beschließe ich den Weg bis zur Unterkunft durchzuziehen, da es ansonsten auch keine weitere günstige Unterkunft gibt auf dem Weg dazwischen. Nach 27 km komme ich dann nass und hungrig endlich an. Ich habe dann nur noch etwas kleines gegessen und liege jetzt im Bett.
      Zusammenfassend muss ich sagen, dass der erste Tag heute ziemlich holprig begonnen hat. Auf das Verlaufen zu Beginn, die Vogelkacke, den Regen und den viel zu langen Weg hätte ich gut verzichten können. Ich konnte durch diese ganzen Aufregungen auch noch gar nicht wirklich den Weg richtig genießen, obwohl er echt schön war, geschweige denn „zur Ruhe kommen“. Das ist denk ich auch normal am ersten Tag alleine unterwegs sein oder? Aber ich muss auch sagen, dass ich sehr froh bin, dass es ich es geschafft habe bis hierher und ich bin nun sehr gespannt auf morgen. Ich habe mir vorgenommen auf keinen Fall 27 km zu laufen. Morgen soll auch die Sonne wieder scheinen. Jetzt bin ich erstmal gespannt auf die Nacht mit 11 anderen in einem Zimmer.
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    • Dag 41

      What I lugged

      2 mei, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Well, shall we do a little What's In My Bag before I fill it with Portugese tiles?

      Rob Godfrey will be interested, if nobody else. A fair amount of thought went into this and on the whole it's served me very well given I've had snow to rain to sun, minus 3 to 28 degrees.

      If I stand naked and shivering, this is what's in front of me. I've noted what I acquired later (+) or lost (-), and what I wouldn't bring again (*).

      Bags
      - 28L backpack
      - Waterproof pouch
      - Cross body day bag (I only used in cities on Camino but it weighs nothing, doubles as a packing cube and I will use it daily now in Portugal)

      Equipment
      - Waterproof pack cover
      - Sleeping bag (shout out Branna)
      - Carabiner x3 (attached to bag)
      - Duct tape (wrapped on toothbrush)
      - Ear plugs
      - Water bottle
      - Zip lock bags
      - Whistle (shout out Mum)

      Electronics
      - Phone
      - Headphones
      - Travel adapter
      - Head torch (* as discussed)
      - Power bank (-)
      - USB to USB C cord (this needed to be twice as long, note to self)

      Clothing
      - Walking shoes
      - Sandals
      - Rain jacket
      - Puffer jacket
      - Merino long sleeve
      - Merino t-shirt
      - Cotton t-shirt
      - Cotton singlet (+, pure indulgence)
      - Walking trousers
      - Leggings
      - Bike shorts
      - Bamboo dress (* this was a last min pack informed by vanity and I've only worn four times, mostly for laundry purposes, but to be fair I might wear it heaps in Portugal, which was the intent)
      - Merino socks x 3 (this was the right amount given unreliable drying)
      - Underwear x 3 (-1 lol)
      - Bamboo bra x 2 (I'd get something quicker dry next time)

      Toiletries
      - Toothbrush and paste
      - Deodorant
      - Sunscreen
      - Facial cleanser
      - Moisturiser
      - Soap (I mucked around with those stupid wilderness sheets for ages and they are the biggest pain in the ass, just bring a small bar in a ziplock)
      - Shampoo
      - Paw paw ointment
      - Blister kit (I didn't need this but I wasn't to know that and I shared it with others which I feel is in my karmic interest - compeed etc is extremely expensive here)
      - Hair clip

      Miscellaneous
      - Passport
      - Credit cards
      - Coin purse
      - Scallop shell (+)
      - Credential (+)
      - Assorted temporary snacks and books

      It sounds like a lot listed out like that but I'd point out that in weight and volume, comfortably under 7kg/28L, it's roughly half what the majority had. The largest I saw someone carrying was is 85L. I assume that guy is now dead.

      I haven't detailed or photographed the medical stuff because you probably wouldn't have to bring it, but that accounts for about 2kg of my weight so if you deduct that and the backpack itself (just over 1kg), the contents are ~4kg.

      I say to you again, an extremely slim minimalist.
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    • Dag 70

      Matosinhos w/Selina & Silvio

      26 mei 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Erfolgreiche Surfertage!
      Die Göttin surft ihre ersten grünen Wellen als hätte sie nie etwas anderes gemacht! 🌊
      Barberbesuch um den Surferbart zu pflegen!
      Polizist Silvio gibt Kurs in SelbstverteidigungMeer informatie

    • Dag 10–12

      Porto, Portugal, Days 1 and 2

      26 april, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      To Porto Portugal by bus the early evening of the 26th. Had difficulties getting into the apartment we had rented (in the midst of a downpour). Ended up at Hotel da Bolsa for the night. Nice breakfast the next day. Explored the riverfront, walked both levels of the Luis 1 bridge (the bridge in the photos). Hordes of tourists around. Very pretty city. Visited some of the must-see sites. Checked into our apartment. Visited a hole-in-the-wall restaurant/bar for a flaming sausage (photo) and wine. Having a grand time!Meer informatie

    • Dag 5

      Camino Day 1: Matsinhos, Portugal to Vil

      19 mei, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

      We walked up the coast for 15 miles today. It was stunning and challenging.
      My main reflections today related to:
      We don’t need many things in life.
      We do need to see the beauty around us, within us, and within others.
      Life is fragile and short, handle with care.
      Change is inevitable, adjust.
      Greet and meet people with love along the way.

      I met 3 women from Holland who were warm and blunt, with lots of laughter.
      Three men from Australia who were lively, friendly, and fun to talk with.
      Four women from Germany who were very nice and welcoming with there experiences.
      Others who we greeted with Bom Caminha!

      It was a very good day on the Camino and we ate almost nothing. We had espresso and an apple, skipped lunch, and found out everything is closed here (except the bar) on Sundays.
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    U kunt deze plaats misschien wel onder de volgende namen::

    Porto, Porto Municipality, بورتو, Portu, Горад Порту, Порто, পোর্তু, পর্টো, Πόρτο, Oportu, پورتو, פורטו, Պորտու, ポルト, პორტუ, Порту, 포르투, Portus Cale, Portas, ഒപ്പോർട്ടോ, पोर्तू, ਪੋਰਤੋ, โปร์ตู, Oporto, پورٹو, 波爾圖

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