Vila do Conde

Woke up in: Caruma Surf Hostel
Destination: Vila do Conde

An intentional late start to the day, to miss the weather. I pre-booked my accommodation the night before, so had the luxury of time to get there.

I set out with the one other Pilgrim from the Surf Hostel. An Irish female, Grainne. Once through the town and back to the coast, a pilgrim was walking across the road and on to the path. It looked like Angel, from the day before. It was! So two became three.

Grainne is struggling with a chest infection, so she was going to stop at a lighthouse we were coming to. But we all took a water break, and she carried on. We found the start of the boardwalk, and began passing or being overtaken by other pilgrims.

We thought to take a quick pit stop at an open restaurant for lunch, as we’d passed many cafes and restaurants that weren’t yet open. So took our chance. I bundled up half of mine for tea later.

The rest of the afternoon passed slowly. Just after lunch, we spotted our destination in the distance. And we plodded on. The waves and wind fierce but beautiful and calming. The three of us, and our paces, separated for time and would then come back and for a while we’d all be in different order.

But it was nice, there was always someone technically looking back for someone. Or looking to someone.

My mind finally found its first bit of peace on this section. No chatter just the sensations of everything around me. It was just quiet.

A male pilgrim walked with us for a while too. He’d completed the Camino a week ago but as the weather had been bad, he decided to go again, with the time he still had left in the country and would get as far as he could.

A little after this Angel wanted to take a break, and said she’d catch up. We went on a head. Although I wanted a break when I was about 90 mins out. So I bid farewell to Grainne and hopped into a tiny beach cafe. Great timing, as minutes after a mini rainstorm hit. So felt a little smug, eating my ice cream, while the windows got battered and rain streaked.

Just after it stopped Angel found me. Took to having a second break, but I couldn’t stay much longer as I needed to make my hostel before sunset and my legs were seizing up.

I began walking again. This time, feeling the loss of the presence of both of them, both ahead and behind. I kept looking back out of habit, but nothing.

Before joining the boardwalk again, I had to pass 2 men, who I was slightly daunted by. But upon passing they broke into smiles and wished me a “Bon Camino”!

The wind had whipped up more. But I was sheltered slightly by a raised dune. While hard. A break in the thoughts and calmness gave way to the presence of mum. Emotions rose and conversations were had. And I continued.

I then had to contend with sand dunes. Where my already treacle legs struggled and cursed the arm dust.

I finally came to the end of the boardwalk. Against a setting sun and lighthouse catching the light. No other pilgrim had I seen since leaving Angel. I felt last. A sneaky feeling from youth, but quashed almost as quickly as it came, for the Camino isn’t for medals.

As I turned off the beach walk into town, someone was waving at me. Grainne had also stopped for a cafe break, and was just leaving now. So we walked into vile do conde together. Starting and ending the day together.

Just before separating she thanked me. If it wasn’t for Angel and I she would have stopped at the Lighthouse and got a bus to the destination. Hoping to start again tomorrow. But she did it! Goes to show the magic in meetings.

My albergue is stunning. A beautiful historic pink building. I think my body will sleep well here tonight.

Body check: pressure points behind my little toes / lower back tender. And thighs just hurt.

Simple things: A glass of natural orange juice.Les mer