Vila Praia de Âncora

Woke up: Casa do Sadao
Destination: Praia do Acora

The day started with a sleepy due haze at Sadao.

With a short day ahead for me. And a morning of goodbyes, I waited for most pilgrims to leave. Then I had my usual yoghurt/rice cake breakfast. Waited upon Lora, to set off together with the intention of exploring the waterfalls together.

As it’s off route of the Camino, we wanted to make sure we didn’t do this part solo.

The houses on this route, are rustic and botanical perfection. A folk tale must exist behind each and every door. I am sure.

The stone paths to the forest left a dappled light that was magical to walk towards.

The waterfalls walk took us scrambling, an athletic feat with our rucksacks. Caught mine once or twice in low hanging branches. But we were able to source the top and sit a while.

Until our departure which took us higher into the hill. Luckily most were shaded. A few poorly handwritten signs of lodgings had us laughing, noting the horror film waiting to happen, should someone ring that number.

We kept pace together and discussed many topics. Including our Camino reasons in more depth. And our backstories with spirituality.

We had a quick cafe stop at midday. Another pilgrim seemed to want to enter but stopped just before (this will become important).

We walked through mud and had to climb through mud. But we were soon at the town of my destination. Here we had our first pilgrim meal, veg stew and omelette plus a coffee.

I think this is also where I got burnt.

We then walked to my albergue. And Lora headed on to Caminha.

My intention was to shower, catch up on organised my media and then head out for sunset.

It was here that an intense 12 hours was about to begin.

I got shown two dorms I could sleep in. The second had a girl at the end bunk already, who called out. So I decided on this one.

Within 30 minutes, not one of us knowing the other’s name. We’d cried together. Sharing pain, and wisdom with each other. And even exchanging bracelets.

Her feet were also not great. But she wished to get an ice cream and write a little. So we headed out to do this.

We also chatted with Marik, the sweetest lad from Prague. Who just constantly wanted to help in any way.

Back at the albergue, a woman who’d entered the dorm as me and Julie (now knowing her name) were talking complemented me. With my ability to hold the perfect space for people to open up and that my advice was way beyond my years. Although the highest someone had guessed my age so far has been 31. So I never know quite the age people are placing me at.

I headed out for the sunset. Marik accompanied me, he’s a fan of Hubba. On my return a man was singing and playing an accordion outside my hostel/cafe, I stopped to hear him play and a woman gestured to join them, and they also bought me a beer. No questions, they just simply wanted me to enjoy that space.

Julie found me. Distraught. She learnt she should go to the hospital for her foot condition. I told her I’d go with her. So we took a taxi straight back to Viana do Castelo (20 minutes drive, yet it took me 2.5 days to walk from there) - but anyway. A little chaotic, but she was seen within three hours. Julie kept repeating how glad I was with her as she’d be panicking otherwise.

So of course we spent at least another 4 hours delving into more of each other backstories, issues as well as big philosophical problems.

But she was finally seen around 11. I was able to translate well enough, although the responsibility was huge. I held her hand throughout both procedures. Waited another 45 mins for a nurse to bandage her. And then with only 60 euros to pay we left.

Well I called a taxi, again in Portuguese. That was ridiculously tough, but success. We had a chatty driver, who took us back and we arrived back at 1am.

And the other lady had waited up to see if she was okay.

We slept in. Me resolved to the fact I will only do a short walk again. One because of the lack of sleep, but also because the lessons I am observing from everyone around me to look after my feet.

Izabela had to quit the Camino because of muscular damage in her feet.

So a late start and Julie took me to breakfast as a thank you. So started the day with a wonderful Pastel de Nata. And of course another couple of hours of sharing stories/life lessons. Just enough time for another cry for both of us.

I fond farewell.

And for once, I am the pilgrim going on ahead…En savoir plus