to the End of the Earth & back

February 2018 - May 2024
An open-ended adventure by Rita Read more
Currently traveling
  • 28footprints
  • 3countries
  • 2,269days
  • 234photos
  • 0videos
  • 8.6kkilometers
  • 7.1kkilometers
  • Day 10

    Climbing Mountains

    February 28, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Luck was on our side today as we awoke to blue skies for our 1st hike of the trip. We are headed to Laguna de los Tres for an up close visit with Fitz Roy. The original itinerary had us hiking out of town and back on a round trip route, but we opted to get a van instead to take us to another starting point around the other side so that we could explore more of the area (and avoid the uphill section right off the top).

    This made the first part of the trek easier as we followed a trail through the forest. Our guide stopped periodically to explain some of the plants and trees that we saw. The river and creek waters were so clear, perfect for refilling our water bottles. The entire hike was simply beautiful as the mountains waited in the near distance.

    The last section about to the lagoons is fairly steep, as mentioned by previous hikers. It's important to remember it's not a race because we're all going to get there. Me? I knew it would take some time to get there. I'd been going to the gym regularly the last months to prepare for this hike, but there's also the short legs factor =) Seems for every 2 steps others take, I need 3. Oh well, steady as she goes right?

    There's a feeling of exhilaration reaching the top and seeing the stunning blue green waters lying in front of a clear Fitz Roy peak. There aren't really words quite to describe the beauty before my eyes. After checking with one of the guides, I knew I had enough time to get to the water's edge and take a few photos. It's lunchtime, but food is the farthest thing from my mind. Some of the others had gone on further to another lagoon, but me, I'm happy right where I am.

    A half hour after I arrived, it was time to start heading back. Down the steep part we went, and then taking a different trail (the original one we would've taken) to town. Along the way, we would stop at Laguna Capri, another beautiful lake, with waters looking more natural. It almost feels like home.

    The Patagonian weather is always subject to change, and clouds were starting to roll is as we left Fitz Roy behind us. A few hikers were still headed in, and we could feel the odd rain drop. The precipitation would hold though as we got back in good time and enjoyed post hike drinks.
    Read more

  • Day 11

    The Day After Fitz Roy

    March 1, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    A bit of a leisurely morning as we had most of the day free before driving to El Calafate. We pretty much all decided to take advantage of the area and do more hiking, though we were a bit tired. A few of the girls trekked out to Cerro Torre while most of us headed off on easier trails to miradors just outside town with the hope of seeing condors. It was a bit blustery as the Patagonian winds announced their arrival, but we'd experienced a bit of it already. Just hunker down and make yourself small to avoid getting blown off the mountain. This tip would most definitely come in handy later on in the trip.

    Unfortunately condors we didn't see, but it was still a nice hike, weather was good and we also went to a point where we could see Lago Viedma. In hindsight I would've liked to have gone to Cerro Torre especially seeing photos after, but knowing my pace, I didn't want to miss the bus or have everybody wait. It was probably doable, but as I sometimes like to do, it gives me something to come back for one day.

    Returning to the town, it was a bit of an adventure finding a place for lunch. My roommate and I wanted to try out the spa, so we found a place nearby, not great, but did the job. The spa itself was alright, I was only able to get a cold gel treatment for my sore muscles as they only had one masseuse and the timing didn't work out. It was really cold, but did soothe for a few hours. Once it wore off though, I still felt the remnants of yesterday's hiking, comes with the experience haha.

    ~~~Off to El Calafate, we took the same ride as the other day, except waiting for us on the other end was a quaint town not an airport. We even saw icebergs in the lake on the way. Because of the late lunch, I wasn't super hungry, so after a quick orientation walk, we checked out the supermarket to get lunch for tomorrow and some souvenir shops, before picking up ice cream for dinner. It's been a bit of a habit on this trip, ice cream for dinner, but why not? Or as they would say "por que no?"
    Read more

  • Day 12

    Perito Moreno - the advancing glacier

    March 2, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Today is glacier day, we're visiting Perito Moreno, one of three advancing glaciers in the world. It's about a one hour drive, but we also stopped for photos of birds and wildlife. A local guide leads the way and cues the Star Wars theme as we round the bend and get our first glimpse of the 8th natural wonder of the world. Though the sun wasn't fully out, we could appreciate the majesty ahead. As the day went along, we would get more than just sun and ice glistening though, rainbows would be a constant companion as well.

    The glacier we're told is about the size of Buenos Aires, extending far beyond what we can see as we safely stand on the opposite shore where several well constructed walkways serve as paths for visitors, with one taking you past the north part and another to the south. Don't be discouraged by the long walking times on the boards, they're tourist times ie how long it should take when we're stopping constantly for photos, and stop we did.

    Because we were all taking the boat ride on the southern part, it made sense to wind our way along the north part. Either way, we will see it all. We began to spread out along the walk, everyone taking their own pace and time for photos, moving along when we were ready. You can't really get lost here, well except maybe your thoughts will as you survey the ice and blues, scanning the icy architecture for signs of a soon to be calving. We did see a few chunks break off, but not the ice bridge that juts out and actually touches the opposite shore of the lake. (A week or so after we left, it would collapse though).

    There's lots of good vantage points for photos and just stops to take it all in. Bring your lunch to eat on way, there's some benches to have your lunch with a view. The scenery definitely reminds me of Glacier Bay in Alaska, but with less tourists on our boat ride. The captain gives us a very good amount of time to soak in the glacier, and from both sides. Most people snap away in the beginning and then huddle downstairs to keep warm, but a few of us brave the elements and stay above deck for the whole duration. Once I had my fill of photos, it was nice to just sit on a bench until the boat pulled away back to shore.

    Returning to El Calafate, there were a few options such as birdwatching at Laguna Nimez. Factoring in energy level and laundry pickup time though, we decided to explore the town instead and do some shopping. If you're a jewelry fan, lapiz lazuli is the semi-precious stone to pick up. There's a nice jewelry store on the main street, though if you happen to be going to Santiago, there's better choices and better prices. Other popular local items would be Calafate berry liqueur or jam, and then there's dulce de leche liqueur. Mate cups and teas can also be found.

    Tried guanaco stew for dinner at La Zaina, adding to my list of new foods tried. Food was nice and yummy, not too gamey if memory serves correct, while the restaurant itself was quite rustic and welcoming. Yeti Ice Bar was next, a very cool place. They give you a poncho-like top, mitts and crampons so you don't slip on the ice. Very handy if you have moments of being in klutz, unfortunately it doesn't really save you from walking into the igloo though, oops. Sometimes when you're short, you forget to look out for objects that are lower than they seem.

    My head hurt and there was a large lump, but nothing some alcohol and a large chunk of ice can't fix. Good photo ops inside too, there was a little cave like area which reminded me almost like the Santa photo booths at the malls around Christmas, the aforementioned igloo, the bar itself and a big sled as well. Just remember to use the flash. Oh, we also had fernet branca shots. Honestly? Not a fan, very herbally and bitter, though it's supposed to taste better mixed with coke. I'll stick to the bols chocolate and the dulce de leche muchas gracias.
    Read more

  • Day 13

    Crossing Borders - Back to Chile

    March 3, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Bit of a travel day as we ready ourselves for a 3 day hike in Torres del Paine. A quick taxi ride to the bus station and off we went. Not only was it a smooth ride on a comfy public bus, it was also just a short wait at the border, getting stamped out of Argentina and into Chile.

    When we pulled into Puerto Natales, it was still early afternoon where we could grab a quick lunch, rent any gear we needed for the next three days and just wander around. Our hotel was located right by the water and we lucked out in getting a room with a view.

    My roommate and I found a nice little Chilean place (on a local's recommendation) and had some delicious Chilean soups packed full of seafood for a late lunch. Next order of business, finding hiking poles (there's more rental shops here than El Chalten). We'd had a few places recommended to us, and I decided to get them at a place on the square since it was close to the hotel and easy to find. Back to the hotel we went to meet our local guides who'd be hiking with us the next 3 days to explain the plan and answer any questions.

    Contrary to our itinerary, we'd be doing the trek backwards as there was another group. Here's how it would now go: Day 1 - Grey Lake/Glacier, Day 2 - French Valley, Day 3 - Las Torres. This they call the mini W as we'd be doing most but not all of the W trek. We tried to negotiate back to the original plan due to a 90% chance of rain on day 3, but no luck. Oh well. Day 1 would be the short hike then and we work our way up. Poles are recommended and like El Chalten, the stream water is wonderful to drink and fill up your water bottle.

    Dinner turned out to be artisanal hot chocolate at Chocolateria Patagonia Dulce. They also had amazing looking desserts, had we known, we definitely would've left room. The place was really busy so we just got them to go and headed out to check out some of the shops.
    Read more

  • Day 14

    Torres del Paine - Day 1 - Grey

    March 4, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    From our hotel, we drove to the national park and boarded a ferry that would take us to tonight's camp at Paine Grande. Just a few minutes into the ride on Lake Pehoe, there's a nice waterfall that lands into the beautiful blue green waters. Temperature aside, it reminded me a bit of the Mediterranean Sea.

    The ride isn't long, but it was windy up top where we sat enjoying the scenery. I think there may have been a few raindrops, but can't really remember. Views of the landscape pretty much takes over the memory bank. At the camp, we quickly drop our bags off in our tents (already set up), some have a quick lunch and off we went.

    The trail up to Grey Lake isn't too strenuous but the winds sustained when you're on the section of exposed rock adds some challenge. At one point, I had to drop and just hug a rock. The gusts were so strong you almost feel like you could be blown off the mountain. Like all of Patagonia though, the sight before you makes it all worth it.

    At the lake, we snap our photos, trying to keep our cameras steady in the wind, trying not to fall off the edge. We share a small bottle of wine and wild berries. Life is simple and that's just fine. Going back to nature, we can forget about our day to day life for a bit and just enjoy the moment. It was extra nice not having to rush back as we would've had to do if this was day 3 and we needed to take the ferry back.

    Back at camp later, the site has a mini market and full cafeteria as well as a bar where you can enjoy a drink before grabbing dinner. It was still some time til sunset, more time for photos as we gazed at the mountains from our tent - stunning. That night, the skies weren't as optimal for stargazing as the Atacama was, so I'm glad I did that earlier on. Clouds were rolling in and we hope they don't hold any precipitation.
    Read more

  • Day 15

    Torres Del Paine - Day 2 - French Valley

    March 5, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    Last night we were given a decision to make: trek the 20 km regular route to the French Valley or continue farther and do 27km. For me, it was a no brainer - the shorter one of course! Not because I'm not enjoying the hiking, we have seen some fantastic views of epic beauty, but more because I know I'm slower, I have short legs and we have a ferry to catch this evening. In the end 3 of us (the quickest) headed further, and the rest of us did the regular route.

    Though it seemed to have rained a bit the night before, we awoke to a nice morning to some clear skies. Crawling out of the tent, we were greeted by the gentle light on the mountains opposite. After packing, breakfast, and stashing our bags, we headed off.

    The first part of the hike was easygoing, we traversed Patagonian flat terrains, following trails laid along gentle hills. I almost felt like a hobbit, lost in the landscape around us. There's not too many people, the quiet was broken only by the sounds of our footsteps. It was a pretty good pace as well and I even managed to stick close to the group for a good duration. Did I mention flat ground and Patagonia flats are my favorite?

    I did have one little mishap though, it was either a loose rock or maybe I tripped over my own feet, but almost did a face plant on a downward part. Luckily I got a hand down in time, so it was just a bit of an awkward landing and I needed to sort myself out before I could accept some help getting up. No harm done (except scrapes and bruises discovered later) and I was soon able to walk it off like I usually do.

    Throughout the hike, we continued to cross rushing streams and rivers, over bridges and stopped at a few lookouts, like one over a lake. We paused there for some time, admiring how the power of the winds stirred the waters, created a nature show. We went through forests, then saw avalanches tumbling down close to a glacier. The latter part of the trail was steeper, but of course, it's only natural. All in all another great day of hiking.

    The way back, we had free reign and free pace to get back to the refugio. It was nice to be rushed and we all had time to relax before hopping back on the ferry where our van awaited to transport us to a private camp for the night. The camp itself is situated just outside of the national park grounds, but had a gorgeous view of the Torres in the distance. Our tents were lined up neatly in a row and the shower facilities were greatly welcomed to refresh ourselves. Some of us even found energy to kick a soccer ball around.

    The dinner building was interestingly shaped like a triangle as we arranged ourselves on the 3 sides of the table. There was a communal feeling in the air as we'd need to help each other and pass food and everything else around. It's too far to reach across the table, but it was alright, as it kind of felt like we were one big family.

    Tomorrow we take on Las Torres themselves, here's hoping we saved energy for that (and yes, we did).
    Read more

  • Day 16

    Torres del Paine - Day 3 - Las Torres

    March 6, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Today was what we were most looking forward to - hiking to Las Torres. It would be tough, it would be challenging but it was going to be oh so worth it. Our eagerness topped up energy levels and we were super excited to waken to a beautiful sunrise where the sun turned the Torres peaks orange. The weather the previous night had included a bit of rain again I think, it had certainly been windy as well, but hey, this is Patagonia, of course, there would be lots of wind.

    We bid farewell to camp and drove back into the park, getting dropped off at the visitors centre for our hike. Once again, the first part is easy, though a bit long as we had to trek a bit in to get to the bottom of the hill. Our group pace spread out a bit, me of course in the back. It seems no matter how fast I try to go, there really is no making up ground when you need 3 steps to match the 2 steps of those with longer legs. Nevertheless, you've heard me and everyone say before, it's no race. But that's okay, we'll all get there.

    Fortunately the trail bridges were on my side. The first part I fell behind, we caught up at the bridges where there could only be 2 people on the bridge. But of course, once we hit the rocky trail and started to climb, the ascending took its toll. And then the rain drops began to fall. Out came the rain jackets quickly and the we continued on. At the time we figured the clouds would pass soon enough, but whatever luck weather luck we had, had clearly run out.

    It rained steadily as we cleared the rocky trail stage, rained as we trudged through the forest, and still pounded down as we climbed large rocks on the final ascent. As I managed to climb rock after rock, I had to wonder how in the world I was going to make it back. Downhill is usually better for me, but the height of these rocks had me wondering. Nevertheless, I came here to hike and there was really only one way to go.

    With the encouragement and patience with our local guide at the back, I slowly but surely eventually made it to the top, to the base of Las Torres where what awaited was not the clear views of everywhere else we'd ended up but a cloudy and rainy view. Our group mostly huddled under some large rocks trying to stay as dry as possible as we munched on our lunch.

    We snapped our token photos, braved it out as long as we could and then started to head back. Seems everyone had the same idea as it became one steady trail of hikers headed down. The rain continued and the path grew muddier. The creeks and streams were fuller and nobody tried to pass each other for the longest time. We all knew the importance of being steady.

    I found myself at the beginning of our group for awhile on the first steep section down. Aided by the fact that I could only go as fast as the person in front of me, I simply followed their footsteps, down that very path of rocks that I had no idea how I'd climb down. One foot in front of the other, poles out and I actually only partially slipped once. We were soaked straight to the bones and I didn't care about puddles or splashing through the rivets of water that grew along the trail. I think Mother Nature just wiped the term "waterproof" from the dictionary. And in my mind, I just wanted to get back to the visitors centre and into dry clothes, and get warm.

    On and on, skipping breaks, I kept moving forward. Everyone would eventually pass me, but that was okay. It was only the last section before the long walk back to the visitor centre where I would see the final backs. It was the muddiest on that part and definitely the slowest going. It's funny, at home, we would never have gone hiking in these conditions, but all bets are off when we're off on an adventure. And what an adventure it was. I don't know if I'd do this again, but I'd like to think I would if the weather worked out.

    The rains did let up near the latter half of the descent, but of course, it came once more as I was in the home stretch. Oh well, what can one do?

    Back to Puerto Natales for the night, return our gear, and try to dry our gear (believe me this last part wasn't that successful) but alas, we must move on, and perhaps dry everything on our next stop. At least the rain didn't follow us and we ended up with a very pretty sunset to wrap up the day. The weather just has a mind of its own.
    Read more

  • Day 17

    Continuing South - Punta Arenas

    March 7, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We rested our weary selves on a 3 hour bus ride today to Punta Arenas. We're still in Chile, but getting even closer to the End of the Earth. I like to think of this day as a pit stop to break up a long land journey to Ushuaia and a pit stop to acclimatize ourselves for the colder temperatures ahead. Though we arrived in the afternoon, the cold and fatigue was already getting to us after the late lunch.

    After a quick orientation walk of key landmarks, the supermarket and a sandwich shop to prepare for tomorrow's long travel day, we scattered over this small city and various directions. There are a few things to do here, but the easiest was simply to wander. Wander the shops - there's some good souvenirs to be bought at really prices. A silver Patagonia mug for $2? Yup. Inexpensive penguin keychains? Yup. And even plush penguins.

    We found Cafe Monct with its delicious cakes and laidback local atmosphere for dinner. You shouldn't be surprised by now. Dessert makes a great small meal after a late lunch, because for some reason, my stomach still hasn't gotten used to Argentinian meal times yet.

    As the hour grew late and the skies started to darken, we made a quick stop for warmer clothes before heading up to a viewpoint near the hotel. A very pretty spot where you can see right down to the water, and the city lights slowly flicker on. There's another spot nearby as well.It's not as picturesque but you get to see another side of the city, mostly residential.
    Read more

  • Day 18

    Here at the End of the Earth

    March 8, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    Today we embarked on a 12 hour journey to Ushuaia, the world's southernmost city and some would say to the End of the Earth. Well, if we're lucky, it's 12 hours and if not, well, it could be 20. It all depends on the weather at the Magellan Straight where a ferry would take us across. Luckily for us, the waters were fine to cross, but it was still super windy.

    We disembarked before the bus drove onto the ferry and then walked on. You can either sit inside or hang out above deck. The weather was nice, and a more adventurous option that also held photographic opportunities.

    Back on land, the drive was long, but picturesque. I wish I could've stayed awake the whole time. The landscape continued to be its gorgeous self, and here and there, we could spot wildlife watching us pass by. Our bus eventually rolled into a town where we'd transfer onto minivans to continue the journey south.

    But before we could, procedure had all our bags lined up next to the bus, ready to be inspected by customs and their canine colleagues to ensure we weren't bringing anything that would be detrimental to the national parks. It was an interesting exam to observe, but no excitement today.

    Our group snagged a minivan all to ourselves, which was nice. We even made stops for miel de lunas and churros at a well known bakery. This plus our snacks tided us over on our journey. As we approached Ushuaia, there were more and more trees covering the mountains, I almost felt like we were looking at the Rockies back home. The beauty of the region is something that never ceased to amaze us.

    At the end of the 12 hours, we were there. Ushuaia. A place we'd only previously read about, heard about, dreamed about. It almost felt unreal. Given the later hour, we'll just settle in tonight with a great steak dinner. Tomorrow, we resume our exploration and be on the outlook for penguins.
    Read more

  • Day 19

    Finding Penguins

    March 9, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    There's lots to do in and around Ushuaia, and if you plan it well, you can find yourselves with two full days. 3 even if you can. Everyone does the Beagle Channel Cruise, but other options include hiking in Tierra del Fuego National Park, glacier hiking, horseback riding, canoeing and more. Our group did a bit of a scatter, but this afternoon we were all on our included Beagle Channel Cruise.

    A bit of a lazy morning, in hindsight, I wish we'd gotten up early and checked out the national park. There's a number of trails, though the bus only runs at certain times and we didn't want to risk missing the cruise later. So, around town we wandered. Heading out along the water, then back to the main drag. In and out of tourist shops from one end to the other. The weather held out beautifully, the weather gods returned and smiled upon us. The winds were still strong though and you'd be advised to have the thermals handy.

    There's two tourist shops of note to check out. Both are on the main street, and you'll notice the first right away with prisoner figures all about it. Ushuaia, like Australia, was built by prisoners, the former from Spain. In the back of the first shop "La Ultima Bita", you'll find a large backyard display of prisoners of the past engaged in mining activities while authorities looked on and supervised. The second shop is on a corner a few blocks down on the opposite side of the street. I think they might be sister shops. The draw to this storefront is that they have rubber Ushuaia stamps you can mark your postcards with. Of course, we only stumbled upon this after we'd mailed our postcards.

    Speaking of postcards, the post office charges an arm and a leg for stamps, check out some of the local shops for stamps instead. That said, as far as I know, none of my postcards have arrived yet and we're coming up on a month. Not worried yet as it took 5 months for a postcard to arrive from Petra, Jordan.

    And speaking of stamps, don't forget to get your passport stamped with the "Gateway to Antarctica" stamp. There's another one for those who actually go to Antarctica, no cheating! So I am returning one day =) By the way, to tide your penguin needs til need, there's lots of penguin things to buy, you might find yourself going home with one, or two, or three, or who's counting anyway?

    Back to our day, we headed down to the docks to board our boat to cruise through the Beagle Channel. It's about a 6 hour round trip and though picturesque, you may want to bring a book or cards, especially since we return in the night. And yes, it does get dark in March. The sail is a smooth one, grab a seat indoors but you'll find yourself outside for a good duration. We get some shore watching time, looking back at the city, pretty as it rests, nestled in front of mountains still capped with snow.

    We pass by a Chilean town on our way south, but it's population still hasn't reached that of a city yet, so Ushuaia retains its title of southernmost city for now. We pass a sunken boat with history that I can't remember. Then sealions and birds that look like penguins. And a lighthouse. Finally we reach Isla Martillo.

    Most of our small group braved the waves splashing up the front of the front of the boat, staking out a good photo spot for when we'd reach the island. It was windy, it was wet (and admittedly I stayed in a doorway til we were almost there). The boat slows as it approaches and dare I count hundreds of cute Magellanic penguins appeared before us. We were limited in our movements, but we made up for it in excitement and camera zooms and hundreds of photos.

    Among the Magellanic penguins were a few gentoo penguins as well and two king penguins, a rarity who we learned might be scouting for a home for their own colony. We lingered and lingered until the boat slowly pulled away again, returning the way we came. So many photos...so many penguins...must get more...
    Read more