Spain
Cebrero

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    • Day 25

      O Cebreiro

      August 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Passed the hill and after almost punching out an Australian “pilgrim” made it into the rolling hills of Galicia just fine.

      Thunderstorms awaited us on the other side and after one last ascent to the Alto do Poio I walked in a slight drizzle that soon turned into a refreshing sprinkle and, by the time I’d reached the albergue, thunder and lightning.Read more

    • Day 27

      Hello Galicia!

      August 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      We got to the top very soon after crossing the border. At O Cebreiro there's a church and a lot of shops for tourists. Nelly wanted to visit the shops but I wasn't interested, so we parted there. We exchanged numbers and I continued the walk.Read more

    • Day 24

      Camino Day 19 (part 2) - O'Cebreiro

      September 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      We tackled "the big hill" today, an almost vertical climb to the town of O'Cebreiro. Along we way up we passed a group of Korean students who were on a 12 month trip around the world (another story, another time). One 16 year old in particular, Kiru, started chatting with us. He asked to interview us. He then asked the one question that I still find difficult to answer...
      Why do you walk the Camino?
      I have the usual answer.... for the challenge, for the experience.... I'm not religious.
      It was not until we reached the town and I entered the church and saw the Pilgrims Pray on the wall, I realised, this is why I love the Camino.
      Take out the God stuff, those who know me know I'm not religious, but each time I do this it does have an impact on my life, I hope for the positive.
      I love the way people interact on the Camino, the selfishness and openness, the caring, and gratitude for the smallest of things is heart warming, and is what keeps drawing me back.
      I'm not sure when or if I will be back for another, but will endeavour to bring the Camino back home with me.
      Read more

    • Day 29

      Day 29: O’Cebreiro a La Balsa

      May 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

      O’Cebreiro was a magical place to start the day. Although I had hoped to get up earlier, I found myself leaving at 7 and enjoying a breakfast in one of the traditional Galician huts in the town. It is lovely to be in this part of the country, and although there is a steep climb to get started with, the rest of the day is all downhill through fields and forest, chestnut trees and oak. Truly beautiful and peaceful as I walk through the countryside.

      The views from the mountain are panoramic to either side, and I descend down for the next couple of hours. I stop a few times for water or coffee or tortilla, but my stomach is bothering me today so I’m looking forward to arriving at my destination.

      I decide however last minute to change my plans and stay at a town at the base of two alternate paths. I now think I will take the longer route tomorrow to enjoy the cultural town of Samsol, so I park myself at the hostel in Triacastela - I’ve walked 22km today.

      Laundry, shower, and a call to Chris as it is his birthday today! Feeling slightly out of sorts, I spend a few hours reclined in the shade in my room, ensuring that I don’t over exert myself in the heat of the day.

      I enjoy a beer with Kendall from Texas. She is walking alone, and I met her yesterday at the church where I read the sermon. She is diabetic, we talk about the challenges she has faced and what she has overcome to be here. I ask her about life in Dallas and she tells me about her last boyfriend, who is now no longer her boyfriend, who is part of a large political family. I find it fascinating, she tells me that in this kind of circle, appearance is everything. She was involved in her boyfriends fathers political campaigning, and was engaged to be married. She had to meet with his family’s political advisor to be briefed on how she could be in public. Then, out of nowhere her boyfriend left her and went to Mexico for a month with someone else. I think he was suffocated by his family, and the expectations they and he placed on himself. She mentioned that her worth had become so wrapped up in his life, that she felt profoundly lost when he left. I thought how stifling this all sounded, and was grateful for my life and the people around me, as well as my outlook.

      We make plans for dinner, and I head back to the hostel. The day feels long today.

      Kendall never messages me back, so I wander around the town and by the stream. I eat a sandwich in the hostel and then decide to head to the local bar, where I run into some people I met a few days ago. I join them to watch the match, Liverpool vs. Real Madrid. I have a beer and some croquetas. I feel a bit out of sorts, perhaps a bit lost in the sea of people who know each other. I try to accept this and move past it, in the knowledge that tomorrow is another day.

      Goodnight everyone :)
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    • Day 14

      O Cebreiro - religious

      June 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      After two of my longest legs and todays 2000 ft climb I will take tomorrow as a rest day here. Such a beautiful place when the Sun is out!

      O Cebreiro as legend has it, was a Templar hiding place of the Holy Grail. A local farmer braved a snow storm to attend communion. The parish priest chastised him for risking his life for some bread and wine, at which the two transfigured to flesh and blood.

      This is also the resting place of O Cebreiros’ parish priest of the 1960s and early 70s. Dr. D. Elias Valiña Sampedro. Pere Elias earned his PhD, studying the ancient Frances Camino De Santiago. He is generally regarded as the reinvigorator of the modern Camino. It was he who instigated the drawing of yellow arrows to mark The Camino for pilgrims and is basis for many legends. In the late 1960s Basque separatists were fighting with the Guardia Civil. Pere Elias was detained by the guardia near Pamplona, far from home, because his vans liscense plates indicated he was not from the location. When they asked him to open up his van, it was full of cans of yellow paint. Asked what he was up to, Pere Elias prophetically exclaimed, “I’m preparing the way for a vast invasion.” The Guardia required a parish representative to drive all the way to Pamplona to pick up Pere Elias.
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    • Day 30

      Day 30: To O’Cebrerio

      June 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

      Most would say, the second most difficult part of the Camino Francés is the hike up to O’Cebreiro. I would agree. However, if the weather cooperates it is beautiful at the top. My morning started off under an overcast sky and sure enough, after a while, the rain started falling and the poncho came out. Before then I was able to take a few photos in La Portela de Valcarce and Vega de Valcarce where I had coffee and breakfast. Then the rain came shortly before the real climb started to O’Cebreiro. Most of the climb itself was on a steep muddy, rocky path punctuated by little poobombs the horses (that some folks use for the climb) had left behind. There really are no photos of that section because my hands were firmly attached to my hiking poles and my eyes were watching where I needed to step.
      At one point near the top there was a sweet Spanish lady that had been collecting these really pretty orange mushrooms. The rain stopped and a few minutes later we officially entered Galicia.
      O’Cebriero turned out to be a really cute vibrant (tourist) town. It was especially rewarding because I kept running into various “pilgrim family” members that I had not seen in days or weeks. Because of various factors you meet folks and walk with them, and you may end up together for a day or more and then may or may not see them again for days, weeks or ever. It’s always nice when you do.
      Tomorrow I’m off to Triacastela (down the other side of the mountain).
      Read more

    • Day 10

      O Cebreiro

      October 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Das Dorf O Cebreiro war bereits zur Zeit der Römer bekannt als Zugang ins Zentrum Galiciens. Die dort zu findenden und auf die Kelten zurückzuführenden Häuser nennt man Pallozas. Ihre typische runde oder ovale Bauweise und ihre strohgedeckten Dächer sind bis in die heutige Zeit erhalten geblieben. Zwei der verbliebenen vier Pallozas werden als Volkskundemuseum genutzt, die übrigen zwei dienen als Pilgerherberge.

      O Cebreiro ist bereits seit Jahrhunderten eine wichtige Station auf dem Jakobsweg. Schon im Jahr 836 wurde hier ein Hospital für Pilger errichtet. Bis heute hat es seine lebendige Ausstrahlung bewahrt. Was früher ein Wallfahrtsort erster Güte war, ist heute ein restauriertes und im Sommer gut besuchtes Touristenziel. Legendär: Die Blutlegende des Ortes und der galicische Gral. An diese Legende erinnert in der Kirche Santa María la Real ein Kelch aus dem 14. Jahrhundert. Während einer Messe soll sich in diesem Kelch Wein in Blut verwandelt haben, als ein wenig glaubensfester Mönch den einzigen anwesenden Pilger angeblich als Esel bezeichnete, weil dieser trotz des schlechten Wetters den langen Weg zur Klosterkirche auf sich genommen hatte, nur um "ein Stück Brot und ein bisschen Wein zu sehen".
      Kelch und Hostie sind heute Teil des galicischen Wappens.
      Read more

    • Day 11

      O Cebreiro - Tricastela

      October 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

      Heute gibt es nichts Besonderes zu berichten. Wir entscheiden uns für den älteren, ruhigeren und schönen Weg bergauf durch den Wald nach Linares. Der Camino führt uns heute auf Schotterwegen oder schmalen Flurstraßen hinauf zur Passhöhe von San Roque. Über Hospital da Condensa geht es nochmal steil auf den 1337 m hohen Alto do Poio, dem höchsten Punkt des galicischen Jakobsweges. Es ist eine sehr schöne Wanderung durch die galicische Bergwelt. Manchmal frage ich mich doch, was ich hier so mache? Immer dann, wenn es wieder sehr steil und gerade nach oben geht. Aber nach etwa 6/7 KM empfinde ich es nur noch als schön. Diese Gegend erinnert mich an eine Welt voller Kobolde, Hexen und Feen, irgendwie unwirklich. Mich wundert es nicht, dass sich hier Kelten vor langer Zeit sehr wohl gefühlt haben. Nach ca. 23 KM kommen wir dann in Tricastela an. Dort erwartet mich schon mein Mann, der mir aus Deutschland nachgereist ist und uns auf den weiteren 132 KM bis nach Santiago begleiten wird. Ich freue mich auf die gemeinsamen Wandertage.Read more

    • Day 27

      Etappe 25 - Die Königsetappe

      February 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

      Von Villafranca del Bierzo, 29km und 1'200 Höhenmeter in 6 Stunden.
      Laune, Energie und Wetter on Point für die härteste Etappe des Camino Frances.
      Die für mich bisher zweitschönste Etappe auf dem Camino Frances.Read more

    • Day 32–33

      Long, steep walk to O'Cebreiro

      October 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

      Didn't expect today to be our most demanding day, but we like the scenic detours and they come at a price!

      Left our town at 7:15 am when it was still dark and climbed about 4 miles straight up a mountain. The optional ascent added an hour to our stage but the views and quietness (only saw three others on the way) were spectacular. Later joined the main route, which also involved a very steep climb (another 4-ish miles straight up) at the end. Had to stop mid-trail several times to catch our breath. Reached our destination after 5 pm, making it my longest day of work since I retired!

      Of note, we have left Castilla y Leon behind and are now in Galicia, which shares traditions and culture with other Celtic regions. Strange (and cool!) to hear *Irish* music and bagpipes when we entered O'Cebreiro. (Fyi, we had to taxi to another town for a hotel but will get dropped back where we left off tomorrow morning.)

      Met up with friends who we expect to see many more times in our final week on the Camino. Hard to believe we have been gone for a month--but at the same time, St. Jean Pied-de-Port seems like a lifetime ago.
      Read more

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