Cebrero

Having walked along the valley floor from Ponferrada through rural villages, farms and vegetable gardens, we began the gradual climb upward over the next mountain rim. This would take us the next three days and eventually lead us out of Castille y Leon and into the picturesque Province of Galicia.

Archeologists and Geologists are continuing to confirm and investigate further the existence of a land bridge that once connected Ireland with this part of Northern Spain. This accounts for the similarities in Geology, Culture and the people of Galicia. The luscious green hills and stone walled paddocks with cows and sheep grazing peacefully is not unlike Ireland at all! It was not uncommon for us to pass through a rural village with Irish tunes being played in a cafeteria!

Our destination was a very special stop on the Camino at a village called O'Cebreiro at an elevation of 1330m. This mountainous climb is the second highest of the Camino and almost as strenuous and steep as the climb over the Pyrenees.

Usually at this time of year this area would be under fog or even snow, however due to unseasonal temperatures we were blessed to have good weather and be able to experience the spectacular beauty of this mountain environment in all its autumn glory.

The reds and golds and greens of the forest were breathtaking at times. We walked through a forest of giant chestnut trees, the falling of their treasured nuts and seeds along with the chatter of birds being the only sounds made.

It was wonderful to stop and experience another kind of natural beauty other than the familiar sights, sounds and smells of our own Australian bush - so far away from here! Boys, I can only describe these Galician mountains and their forests as the kind of forests from Harry Potter movies and books!

We reached the village of O'Cerbreiro in the mid afternoon and what a surprise awaited us! Being in the Province of Galicia now, the village was an expression of Celtic Culture and history.

The buildings were reminiscent of old Ireland with original thatched rooves and slate bricked houses, shops selling all things Irish and of course pilgrim wares. Built into the side of the mountain top some pilgrims remarked 'this is like something straight out of The Hobbit!' Every building we went into you had to duck your head!

Most importantly though, there was a monastery here since the 10th Century and reportedly, St Francis of Assisi came through here making his own pilgrimage to Santiago some 200 years later.

The Church obviously has a Franciscan history, however, we also learned of a miraculous history. An approved miracle happened here when a priest commented harshly to a farmer who had risked his life under bad weather to come up for Mass saying that he should not have come in the poor weather for the bread and the wine. At that moment the bread and wine became the real body and blood of Jesus. At the same time the statue of Mary now called Santa Maria de Real, inclined her head and smiled. She was a very warm and beautiful image with a lovely smile on her lips. I lit a candle here and remembered you all in front of her statue. It was the Feast of All Saints that day.

Another special significance was that it was the Parish Priest of O'Cebreiro who personally travelled the Camino and placed all the markers to make the modern pilgrimage more accessible than that of old. The yellow arrows and Plinths were his idea. Thank God for him!!

Setting off from O'Cebreiro, we climb upward 200m or so and then begin the steep descent over the following day. We are now in our last week of walking the Camino! In 7 days and 156km from here we will reach our destination of Santiago de Compostella!Read more