Spain
El Burgo Ranero

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    • Day 37

      Rest day in Leon

      September 17, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Yesterday we walked 24 klms along the old Roman road instead of along the highway from Sahagún to Mansilla de los Mulas.
      If you know yer Román roads then you know they are made up of layers and layers of rocks. So it made for a bumpy and slow walk. We had to stop a few times when there was shade (hardly any on the way) and give the feet an airing, it helps to prevent blisters forming. Take boots and both sets of socks off.
      We decided to bus 🚍 the last few clicks into León as we knew it was just car dealerships and factories for another 18klms ,no guilt felt whatsoever. There are pilgrims who walk every single kilometre and feel like they have cheated if they don't, that's their choice, I chose the bus and we booked a hotel for a rest day. The bliss of real sheets a double bed, towels and our own shower.🚿
      León seems like a nice city, it has a nice vibe. Today after a nights sleep we are chilling with a late breakfast, watching the people go by and not planning on doing too much except pottering.
      We have now walked 461 k's which I can hardly believe so we are over the halfway stage, we plan to walk to finisterre(the ocean) which is another 100 so that will be 900 if we can do it all. That's like walking to Sydney from Brisbane, wow. 😲
      Things I've noticed are
      Spanish don't do tea, no kettle and teabags in hotels and hardly a kettle anywhere to be found. I miss tea! 🥤
      They eat a Lot of bread, I love bread but I am getting a bit fed up of it. 🥪
      Europeans in general smoke a lot. 🚭
      Older guys go to the local bar for a few drinks and play cards or dominoes with their friends in the afternoon, I thought that seemed like a nice thing. 🍻
      Spanish ladies can be feisty. 🔥
      Spanish ladies dress beautifully on the whole, lovely shoes and outfits. I have often felt a bit underdressed in my Pilgrim attire that I wear everyday.
      Some days I have even had to commit fashion crime and wear socks with sandals to protect my sore blistered feet. 👡
      Yes you can walk on blisters!
      It's amazing how little you actually need to live.
      I have 2 outfits and 2 sets of socks to wear.
      1pr sandals 1 pr boots. 👢
      My whole pack weighs less than 6 kilos now as I've gotten rid of useless items like a swimming costume, evening top and things I've forgotten about.
      Happiness doesn't require stuff 🧐
      So till next time, adiós amigos 👨‍❤️‍👨
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    • Sahagun To El Burgo Ranero

      September 26, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      A relatively easy day today along the Frances. What a difference it is along this trail. Many other pilgrims along the trail, and at rest stops. The trails are all well groomed, and shaded by rows of trees. The villages are much closer together, and there is always food and drink at hand.

      Staying at a hostal tonight. Many more choices of places to stay compared with 2013.

      On the downside, a pilgrim told me last night that their friend in Santiago had to wait 3 days to get their compestela. There are so many in Santiago that you have to stand in line to get a number, then follow your number on an app that you download to monitor it’s progress.

      Anyway just a few pics today.
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    • Day 32

      El Burgo Ranero

      September 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Dzisiaj zajęło nam dużo czasu aby opuścić Sahagun. Miejsce, w którym spaliśmy było doskonałe, z bardzo dobrym obiadem i śniadaniem
      Pierwsze nasze kroki skierowaliśmy w stronę biura pielgrzymów, aby uzyskać certyfikat ukończenia połowy drogi. Mieściło się ono prawie na końcu miasta w odrestaurowanym od paru lat Santuario de la Virgin Peregrina. Po odebraniu zacnych dokumentów zwiedziliśmy Sanktuarium, które na chwilę obecną jest muzeum. Dobrze wyeksponowane resztki fresków na ścianach jak również delikatne koronkowe ozdoby pomaurowskie. Duża kolekcja figur Sw. Marii z artystycznie oddanym pięknem osobistym i emocjami twarzy. Figury te, dodatkowo pięknie ustrojone bogato zdobionymi szatami, w okresie Wielkiego Tygodnia, są wynoszone na specjalnych do tego celu pojazdach i uczestniczą w świątecznych procesjach. Już stojąc w sanktuarium robią niesamowite wrażenie.
      Nazwa miasta Sahagun jest skróconą wersją imienia Świętego Fakunda męczennika, który wraz z bliskim sobie Świętym Primitivo, zginęli śmiercią męczeńską za odmowę oddawania czci bożkom, wlasnie tutaj w Sahagun. Byli oni długo ale bezskutecznie torturowani przez Rzymian a potem ścięto im głowy i z szyi popłynęła krew i woda a działo się to w 3 wieku.W miejscu ich stracenia powstał klasztor Benedyktynów. I tam właśnie spędziliśmy trochę kolejnego czasu w przy klasztornym muzeum. Początek Benedyktynów w tych rejonach wiąże się właściwie z obecnością hiszpańskich Cluneys, którzy przez parę setek lat przeżywali świetność dzięki królowi Alfonsowi VI, który bardzo o nich dbał nadając im wiele licznych przywileji. Grobowiec króla i kilku jego żona właśnie tutaj się też znajduje.
      Muzeum ma również wiele ciekawych rekwizytów, ale głównie z XVI-XVII wieku. Najfajniejsze było wyjście malutkimi ciasnymi drzwiami do kaplicy/kościoła Monestario de Santa Cruz zaraz przy przepełnionym przepychem barokowym ołtarzu, który jak tsunami wciągał do środka....
      Po opuszczeniu Sahagun już tylko droga z mijającymi polami kukurydzy, słoneczników i zaoranej ziemi.
      Po drodze mijaliśmy uśpione bezludne miasteczka i w końcu dotarliśmy do naszego schroniska na dzisiaj. Popijamy piwko i inne napoje oczekując na obiad i potem pewnie nic się już nie wydarzy... oprócz pięknego zachodu słońca.
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    • Day 30

      El Burgo Ranero

      May 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Nou, daar gaat tie..... gisteren dus in een albergue geslapen. Geen kamers meer maar wel een bed in een slaapzaal.... waar moet ik toch aan denken..... alleen 20 man/vrouw op een zaal...🙈🙈 en zo geschiedde maar eerst eten en drinken. Ik zat bij een groep Australiërs, goeie babbel en een gezellige avond gehad. Nou gezagen werd er en toen kon ik toch nog mijn verhaal op Penguin afmaken wat eerder op de avond niet lukte. Enfin eindelijk in slaap gevallen met oordopjes....en vroeg eruit en na een pelgrim-ontbijt de fiets weer op. Ik kan het niet verklaren maar het leek wel alsof ik vleugels had en ik drink géén redbull... nee zonder gekheid het ging zo goed en zelfs voor de middag was ik al voorbij het eindpunt van het vorige traject maar zo vol energie en dus door. Ik heb weer een heel stuk op gravelpad gereden waar ook weer de wandelaars liepen en niet een paar.... ik denk dat ik vandaag ën paar honderd pelgrims te voet ben gepasseerd. Bij het roepen van buen Camino waren de reacties zeer uitlopend van geen reactie, een schrikreactie van uit de concentratie gehaald worden tot bellende pelgrims of op hun GSM starend of fris of minder fris terug roepend, enfin met beleid gefietst en uiteindelijk zijn er weer gescheiden paden. De zon scheen de hele dag en aan de lucht geen wolkje te bekennen. Rond 13.30 uur ging het toch wat langzamer en Léon was toch nog iets van 40 km en dat vond ik toch even iets te gortig, dan maar een hotel en onder de pannen voor de nacht op een fatsoenlijke kamer en dat is gelukt. Vandaag ruim 80 km's afgelegd.
      Ik besef ook dat ik vandaag 4 weken (zondagen) onderweg ben.. ik kijk tevreden terug.
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    • Day 22–23

      The truck stop stage

      September 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

      Not many pics. Roadside walking was more of the same yet still very pleasant since it was low 70s, with a clear blue sky and a light breeze.

      One stop along the way was a very large, clean, friendly albergue, where we saw the ladies from Scotland, a guy who has harnessed a golf bag carrier to his hips in order to transport his pack, and an ambulance take away a pilgrim in some kind of distress.

      If we were homesick for the US, tonight might have cured us. We are staying just outside a small town (El Burgo Ranero) at a motel attached to a truck stop with a 24-hour diner on the first floor. Very American vibe. Nice to be able to order up a hearty burger and chips at 3 pm. The town itself is small and plain, with adobe-style clay and brick homes and buildings.

      Ran into Laguna Beach guy again. His name is John. Biking the Camino for the 4th time but following the same stages as walkers to savor things, and also to keep pace with a friend who is jogging the stages as training for a marathon. I'd say most people we meet are doing the Camino for the combination of physical challenge and communal hospitality. Not as many seeking salvation or indulgences😄, but definitely a few working through some grief.
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    • Day 12

      Camino Day 8 - Reliegos

      August 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Short day today with only 14 km's.
      Problem with accommodation has forced us to stop early. The town ahead has two albergues but one is closed today and the other hasn't reopened after COVID. This will also lead us to walk to the next town and then take a bus to Leon.
      Yes, this is not the planned way but no accommodation and injury has forced us to do it. We have now planned a three day stopover in Leon to fully recover before we start the hills of Galacia.
      We are all fine from the knees up but the lower levels have taken a pounding, more than any other walk.
      Lots more pilgrims are now on the trail so it's getting busy at each town.
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    • Day 14

      Camino Day 9 - Leon

      September 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Had a fun night at Bar Elvis with shots all round and 50's music playing loud. An iconic stop on the Camino trail. Even managed to find a spot and Hollie added our names to the endless writing.
      Set off for Leon this morning with a short 6km walk then a bus to finish. That is if I booked the tickets for the right date and not in a month's time. So a taxi to Leon it was as there were no buses running.
      I actually walked into Leon almost the same path I did 6 years ago, straight to the Cathedral.
      We had a walk around, went to the markets, had a beer and some lunch, walked around some more, had another beer, and waited for our apartment guy to turn up.
      Leon is an amazing city and we have 3 nights here to explore and recuperate.
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    • Day 26 - Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero -18k

      September 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      I am in a private room in El Burgo Ranero right now. It is not luxury, but again, I can just spread my things all over the place so it works well for me. It also has a nice quiet outdoor space and I sat for a little bit in the sun (though not too long as I get enough sun every day). I will also not have to worry about bothering people with my snoring. I really don’t know how bad it is and if I discovered a better side to sleep on or not. I think I may try to record myself tonight and see.

      Today’s walk was 18kms and manageable. I stopped my usual every 5km or so and as usual, people asked if I was ok. I am kind of used to it now, but when one guy stopped and asked “tu bien”, I said yes, he didn’t believe me and continued to prob. I had my socks off as I like to let my feet breathe and so I guess he was very concerned about this. Then I got a little pissed off. I said “Tres Bien” and gave him a look. I know they think they are being kind, which is why I started to let it slide, but to then go on and on about it, that is just annoying.

      I am two days away from Leon (a big city) and am thinking of the supplies I may need. The one thing I have been debating is new shoes/boots. The ones I have are pretty tight and hot which is why I think I need to stop more than usual and let my feet breathe. Before I had left Canada I had decided at the last minute to take these boots. My ankle was still very weak and I didn’t feel supported in the Hoka’s I had bought. My ankle feels much better now, so I am thinking of possibly getting Altras. I have heard great things about them, especially the wide toe boot. I will probably take a look, but I am scared to give up my boots just yet. There is a couple tough areas coming up, plus the reality of more rain. I will let you know what I decide.

      Today’s walk was uneventful. It was mostly walking on a path beside the road. For a lot of it, I actually walked the road as it wasn’t a busy one (only 1 car passed the whole time). I like road walking as it is predictable. Not likely to have a loose rock in my way causing havoc when I step on it and twist something.

      I think I am going to sit down tonight and do some serious planning on my stops and perhaps reserve a little bit. It is getting really crazy out here and I hear so often people turned away. I have around 325 kms left. We officially passed the half way mark yesterday. This would mean I have roughly 16 days left if I do around 20km a day, not including a rest day. I think I may take a rest day in Leon and then we will see.

      Well, I better sign off now and do some planning and some eating.

      TTYL
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    • Day 29

      Motel 6 On the Camino

      October 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      "We'll leave the lights on!"

      So, I have mentioned the mentioned that the part of the Camino that we're on (and have been on for the past week) is called the "meseta". It has long distances between villages, beige plateaus, no shade & is not very interesting. Even the little villages we have passed through don't have much there. Today our walk was okay, but most of it was on a road that was not very busy along corn fields. The most exciting thing was sering a green tractor and the we saw a blue tractor. Quite honestly, I don't have many pics for today because there wasn't much I wanted to remember. Jim has done a really good job booking places to stay at night. Tonight's place got good reviews but, it is a truck stop. Not the quaint little b&b I would picture if someone told me they were walking through old villages in northern Spain. Motel Avia is clean & comfortable, but totally devoid of character or beauty. It is just one more example of how the Camino is a metaphor for life. Sometimes where you are is not good or bad, it's just a truck stop.Read more

    • Day 40

      Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero

      October 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

      I didn’t take any photos today, it was wet and cold, and I was just wanting to walk fast to get warm. I am including a couple of photos that Roel took of me that show the wet conditions on the trails.
      We walked from the monastery albergue in Sahagún to a nice little albergue in El Burgo Ranero, just about 18 km. We had to use a hairdryer to try to dry our shoes and socks and other things enough so that maybe they’ll be dry by morning. Oh, and I ate the most delicious vegetarian meal I’ve had so far, check out the picture!
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    El Burgo Ranero, 24343

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