Spain
Pedrafita do Cebreiro

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    • Day 30

      Villafranca del Bierzo to O'Cebriero

      April 21 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      I am just now, with one week to go, building a fucking Camino family. I am simultaneously thrilled and devastated.

      In the kitchen last night I ended up having dinner, and a tea, and a really genuinely good conversation, with Lucy, an Englishwoman living in Malaga. This morning, I finally asked where the incredibly gentle man that looks like a punk anarchist bouncer is from - he folds his clothes and makes his bed so slowly and carefully. Turns out I've slept next to Christian from Naples three times and we have both been speaking broken if earnest Spanish to each other this entire time. I know his neighbourhood. He is a delight.

      Eight kilometres in, salut to the tiny French woman Maggie I've orbited in the last few days. 10 kilometres in, Fabrice emerges from the opposite direction to the trail, swearing and swinging his poles around in frustration at having taken a completely useless detour. Maggie sent him the wrong way, did I hear the dog? Did I hear him screaming swear words at the dog? He's two days into quitting smoking, you can tell.

      I was a bit nervous about the elevation later so I broke a month long tradition and walked with him all day, with brief interludes. He said I calmed him. He was surprisingly protective - buying me coffees, pulling me away from traffic, walking on my outside on the roads, peeling me apples, making me fill my water and put on sunscreen. After a month of aggressive self sufficiency, this was unusual but nice - a lesson in accepting help maybe.

      In the last four kilometres Lucy and Maggie joined us, along with some completely knackered Japanese men, and we summited together. What a bloody view. It was so worth it. I don't know about hardest day. There were certainly tough bits, and in different weather sure maybe it would have been less enjoyable, but honestly I loved it. Maybe I am harder too. 💪
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    • Day 13

      Not Highcastle its Triacastela

      April 21 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 43 °F

      After a long day of hills (which led to blisters) Today was a short day of only 14 miles....mainly downhill. Our routine of breakfast in bed (or whatever we can scrounge from our packs) 6am start, walk for two hours and then café con leche and walk for other 4 to 6 hours is a wonderful routine. We have been walking with "friends " from around the world including Singapore, Germany, Brazil, South Korea, Japan, and many other places. We encourage each other on the hills, welcome each other at the end of the day and meet at local restaurants to eat. The true meaning of the Camino family.Read more

    • Day 23

      Linares

      May 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Was für ein Tag 😳😍🤯🥶🌧️🌩️👣

      In der Nacht gab es ein herliches heftiges Gewitter und unter dem Dach in der Rumpelkammer bei Blitz 🌩 und Donner und Regengeprassel im kuscheligen Schlafsack und im Trockenem. Aber ein Gespenst 👻 gab's nicht 😂

      Um halb sieben gings los und nach ca 150 Metern gab es gleich schon die erste Pause 🤭🤭 juhuuuuuuuuu Kaffee und Frühstück und nen gepressten Orangensaft und die ersten zwei offiziellen 🏳️‍🌈 am Rucksack zu erkennen 😂😂😂

      Um kurz nach sieben bin ich dann aber wirklich endlich los und es ging im Tal hauptsächlich an der Straße entlang aber um einen nur Berge. Bin mal wieder einfach planlos losgestöckelt und kam gegen Mittag schon bei der empfohlenen Tagesetappe nach 22,9 km an. Da noch ein Eis gekauft und unwissend weiter.

      Tja und dann ging es bergauf und bergauf und steil bergauf und voller Motivation als es dann mal gerade vorwärts ging, war ich gefühlt der Held den Berg geschafft zu haben.

      Und dann gings richtig hoch und höher und 16kg aufm Rücken und höher und es hörte gar nicht mehr auf. 🥵 Es ging von 900 Höhenmeter auf 1300.😱😱😱. 8,3 km

      Der einzige Vorteil war dass es durch den Wald ging und ich weichen Boden wenigstens hatte, endlich kaum mal Steine. Aber heute war echt anstrengend und dann mal Sonne, Regenkleidung aus, dann Regen, Regenkleidung an und dann wurde es immer kälter und windiger. Zwei Shirts völlig verschwitzt und brrrrr 🥶🥶🥶.

      Und dennoch war es schön es geschafft zu haben und vor allem die Eindrücke der Landschaft. Waaaaaahnsinn!!!! 😍😍😍

      Ich hab dann sehnsüchtig aufs nächste Dorf gehofft und vor allem mit Herberge. Und tatsächlich in nem Dorf mit 5 Häusern war eins ne Herberge 🥳🥳🥳 und nem Bett. 🥳🥳🥳

      Und ner Waschmaschine

      Restaurant gibt's nicht aber ich habe zum Glück noch was zum mampfen im Rucksack.

      Ansonsten muss es morgen wohl mal zur Abwechslung wieder etwas bergab gehen 🤔

      Dürfte jetzt so ca noch 160 km bis Santiago haben + nach Finesterre und dann kommt wohl bald die Realität zurück 🤢🤢🤢

      Vielleicht bleib ich einfach hier 🤔 oder ich fahr nochmal nach Saint Jean Pied de Port zurück und lauf noch 😂😂😂😂

      Das Leben könnte so schön sein...... Deswegen muss sich jetzt mal was verändern. 😉
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    • Day 30

      Dinner

      June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      Ok laugh all you want....
      So this Linares where we are is a SERIOUS hole in the wall
      There is no restaurant here...but we can still drink beer...
      And there is a grocery store...so...got what we can
      And there you have it
      The finest food that Spain can offer 😋
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    • Day 8

      Day 7: Villa Franca de Bierzo to Laguna

      April 12 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      Another long walk! 17 miles this time. Forgot to say, it ended up being a hot one! I think it was in the 80s. I was lucky to find a store that sold sun tan lotion. I forgot ours. But we did get some sun burn first.
      What a beautiful day. Started off for quite a few miles walking on the road. No ones favorite. But finally went to mountains in a distance and country roads.
      The last 3 miles or so was all up hill!! I will admit, at one point I may have thrown a temper tantrum. Why are we going all the way to Laguna?? There is a place to stay before that which works just as well. I lost. Patrick persisted.
      In the end, after I barely survived getting up to the top of the mountain, it was magical. So many people we met along the way were here. This is the only alburgue so it was nice to see people we might not have seen for a few days.
      After dinner, some young people got together and one was playing guitar and people were signing. Very nice!
      10 pm now. Lights out.
      Tomorrow we go further up the mountain and down, down, down.
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    • Day 34

      Tag 34 Villafranca Lalaguna de Castilla

      June 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      Der heutige Tag ist nur mit einen zu beschreiben sehr Fordernt.
      Es ging erst durch einen Schnellstraßen Tunnel der eigentlich für Fußgänger gesperrt ist.
      Dann fing es an zu regnen und zu guter letzt ging es auch noch 700 Meter hoch.
      Er war der erste Tag wo ich wirklich am Ende war und froh als die Herberge in Sicht kam. Natürlich wie sollte es auch anders sein gab es als Belohnung noch eine richtig dicke Blase.
      Bei der mir ein anderer Pilger dann gleich half und die Blase versorgte.
      Genau so wie ich am 2ten Tag einem anderen auch geholfen hatte.
      Das ist der Geist dieses Weges .
      Genau wie in einer große Familie.
      Es wäre schön wenn dieser Geist auch im normalen Leben Einzug hälte.
      Leider gibt es das viel zu wenig.
      Hier merkt man erst das es völlig egal ist wo einer herkommt und was er macht alle haben die gleichen Outdoor sachen an so gibt es keine unterschiede.
      Alle sind einfach nur Pilger.
      Die 600 km Marke ist geschafft.
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    • Day 33

      Von villafranca nach la laguna de castil

      June 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

      Hallo zusammen, heute stand die nächste Etappe auf dem Speisezettel und das Menü war seeehr abwechslungsreich. Vorspeise: Überwiegender Untergrund: Asphalt an Tunneldurchführung und Autobahnbrücken. Hauptspeise: Strömender Regen, zerklüftete Bergpanoramen und Sonne Wolkenmix. Nachspeise: extrem steile Anstiege mit Geröll und glitschigem Untergrund auf ca 1200 hm, Hellado in Form von Hagelkörnern. Alles in allem ein abwechslungsreiches Menü auf einer Länge von ca 25km. Erkenntnis des Tages: Es wird gegessen, was auf der Speisekarte steht.Read more

    • Day 28

      Etappe 23 - La Laguna 2

      October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      In La Laguna gegen 15 Uhr erschöpft, aber glücklich angekommen.
      Herberge wieder 10 Personen in einem Raum. Aus unserer gestrigen Auberge alle wiedergetroffen. Hier geht wahrscheinlich keiner verloren.
      Derzeit bin ich fast nur mit englisch sprechenden Pilgern zusammen. Muss ganz schön meine Englischkenntnisse ausgraben. Manchmal beginne ich schon in englisch zu denken, bzw. Selbstgespräche zu führen - seltsam!
      Bin hier völlig auf dem Lande - wie aus den Fotos ersichtlich.
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    • Day 16

      O’Cebreiro to Triacastela

      June 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

      Beautiful green pastoral setting. Hit Alto San Roche at the golden moment. Met logistics specialist Pascal from Rotterdam. He just started home brewing! Had to gear up for a short rain. The Way was slick from days of rain and several had bad falls.Read more

    • Day 30

      O'Cebriero

      April 21 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Lucy, Maggie and I are sharing two adjoining bunks, and when we went to have showers, got to know each other very well indeed given there were no doors - school/pool spec. Surprisingly to Lucy and I, Maggie was the prude about this - she's since indignantly asked every pilgrim in town staying elsewhere if they have doors on their showers.

      I kneaded my laundry in the freezing water next to Fabrice, hung it out with pegs loaned by Lucy, and then went to get a wine, joined by them one by one and then stragglers until our table in the alley had three others attached to it and about 15 pilgrims around it.

      Bells pealing, Fabrice let me rummage around in his bag to borrow a jacket for the cold church and we all hustled up to mass, Lucy setting me off with the giggles a few times as our priest (a Patrick Dempsey lookalike) herded us through a half hour ceremony.

      It finished with a special pilgrim portion, where we all stood in a circle and he handed out pebbles with yellow arrows painted on. There was a prayer I can't remember, because someone from each language had to read it to the group. Lucy and I were the only native English speakers and she wasn't having a bar of it so I had to. Nervous, I spoke clearly and retained nothing except the last line: be happy - make others happy.

      After we went to dinner, and after they left I joined my Camino cousins, the Brazillians and Italians, at their table and had a grand old bilingual time. They're a big lot - I like them very much but they are too many to make a family out of so cousins it is.

      Lucy and I are currently shaking with laughter in our bottom bunks listening to Maggie huff and puff in French at the snorers. I am so scared for this to end. If I walk with them tomorrow it might be harder later. But is that reason not to?

      Why now. Why *now* am I finding these people, letting them find me? Another lesson, I'm sure. In Pamplona I think I needed to let the others pass and walk alone, I wonder if now, on the other end of the journey, it is the opposite. A test - can you leave this, can you appreciate something inherently temporary? Can you love and lose?
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    Pedrafita do Cebreiro

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