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    • Day 73

      Arguedas - in Marokko?

      April 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

      Beim Übergang ins Ebro-Tal liegt Arguedas als nächste Station auf der Hand. Der Ort am Rande des Flusstales fällt auf durch viele Höhlenwohnungen, die noch bis in die 60iger-Jahre bewohnt waren.
      Die ausgeprägte Formation von Lehm- und befestigenden Kalk-Schichten hat den Höhlenbau überhaupt erst ermöglicht.
      Durch die tektonische Plattenverschiebung hatte sich in dieser Gegend ein riesiges Becken an Ablagerungen des Ur-Meers gebildet, noch vor Entstehung des Ebro-Flusstales. Die Erosion hat danach eine außergewöhnlich bizarre Landschaft geschaffen, die Halbwüste der "Bardenas Reales". Die über 40 Quadratkilometer weite gemeindefreie Landschaft diente jahrhundertelang als Wander-Weide.
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    • Day 9

      Los Arcos to Logroño

      April 10 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      117 miles done. 383 to go.

      Lunch was “the pilgrim’s meal” as typically served in establishments along the Camino. Huge salad with a local cheese selection, perfectly breaded chicken breast with potatoes, a flambéed apple dessert, espresso, AND an entire bottle of local sauvignon blanc. 15 euros! That’s crazy, right? I only had two glasses of wine from the bottle because I still had 6 miles of walking post-lunch.

      Listened to 7 chapters of Nadia Bolz Weber’s audiobook, Shameless, while walking this morning and afternoon. There’s so much that resonates with memories of my upbringing in nondenominational churches in the 80s and 90s and thus my theological understanding shaped by purity culture, “kissing dating goodby,” WWJD, and then 8 years of reparative therapy that I was a part of, between Illinois and Colorado, by my own volition. There’s a lot to unpack with this book/audiobook, and if you’ve had a similar journey and would find it helpful to ever talk about God, faith, sexuality, fear, shame, etc., I’m glad to listen and share our life experiences together. I’m very grateful to those along the way that have been a lifeline to me… some of you who might read this know that you have been that for me, then, and still now. Thank you.

      Today was a super long walking day. Not challenging in the ascents and descents, but challenging in length… stamina of keeping moving over the long distance. I’ve started to notice others who are walking the Camino route limping, slowing down, taking more breaks, and changing out bloody bandages on their feet. I’m grateful my feet are holding up so far, though I’m prepared in case I start to get blisters or hurt myself. I’ve got my routine of stretching, massaging my feet and calves, and applying body glide where I’m feeling the rub. It’s worked…so far.

      But, in all the care for my feet, I neglected to care for the rest of me. And I got sunburned on the backs of my calves after hiking my pants up in the afternoon heat AND I had some sort of allergic reaction to the hotel soap this afternoon. So, there’s that. Not a fun combo. 😞 I gotta be more careful!

      Also, they mix red wine and Coca-Cola here as a cocktail. Kalimotxo is what it is called.
      I had to try it. The verdict is in… it’s good and odd. Sweet and tart. Different. Like me 😜
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    • Day 12

      Overslept and underprepared

      April 3 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

      As well as evening lockouts, the albergues are just as enthusiastic about morning push outs, usually by 8am.

      After a long day yesterday I clearly slept well, and because that hasn't been the case, I haven't been using an alarm clock. I'm *sure* my phone said 5.30am but then I blinked and it was 8am and I was still in my sleeping bag.

      They were kind to me because I made a performance of being frantic and apologetic, and because they were worried someone had forgotten the medicine in the fridge and were pleased it was mine. Pulled out sheepish at 8.20am, an hour late to the longest day yet. Great start. Get an alarm you lout.
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    • Day 14

      Day 11

      September 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

      Left Logrono 6.45 am arrived Navarrete 11.45am
      12.5ks today. It is our rest day.
      Very little signposts to show the way out of Navarete this morning. It took 45 minutes to get out to the city fringe. We walked mostly on paved footpaths today, very hard on our feet. We need to get some washing up to date and have time to rejuvenate.
      We have noticed that the locals are very helpful, and even though the language barrier is there, we get ourselves understood. Lots of laughter.
      We are managing with our packs really we now we don't have the intense heat.
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    • Day 10

      Von torres del rios na logroño

      May 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Hola a todas. Heute möchte ich euch das nächste Abenteur von torres del rios nach logroño mitteilen. Wir sind um 7 Uhr von torres del rios gestartet und wieder durch die traumhaften Landschaften von Navarra gepilgert. Ausserdem durften wir den Sonnenaufgang erleben. Der camino führte uns durch das mittelalterliche Dörfchen Viana mit eine wunderschönen Kirche. Am Ende dieser Etappe sind wir in das comunidat Leon übergegangen und Navarro verlassen. Fazit des Tages: Es gibt immer wieder neues zu erleben. Buen camino.Read more

    • Day 11

      Los Arcos to Logrono - part two

      April 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      It's the longest day yet, distance wise, and if you don't want to do the whole 27.8km stage, your one option is to stay in Viana, at the 18.4km mark instead. As the following stage is 29km, there's no making up that ~10km tomorrow, it basically means you turn two days into three by walking the first half of one, the second half of one and first half of the other, then the second half of the other. Messy.

      I've been a sanctimonious prick when it comes to doling out the platitudes to others - listen to your body, take it easy, etc. So when my left quad started giving me gipp on the approach to Viana you'd think I'd have stopped. No, apparently a pilgrim in motion will stay in motion unless acted upon by a bigger force than that.

      Cursing that decision almost immediately, I soon rounded a corner and saw Jovan and another pilgrim - he clearly likes company when he walks - and internally groaned as he ditched her taking a photo to come walk with me again. My feet hurt, my legs hurt, my pack felt heavy, and it was all industrial concrete noise.

      Once in the albergue, mercifully, very close to the edge of town, I repeated my party trick of selecting the worst possible shower. Best I can compare it to is if you left a juice box at room temperature for a while then stabbed it with a fork and held it over your head. Half dressed and fuming, I turned on the one next to it out of interest and thought about stabbing some more as the water came out strong and hot.

      Now, my highly technical towel only really has about three-quarters of a dry in it at the best of times. Perhaps it's made for a much smaller person? I'm not sure where you'd find one. So in choosing to start the shower process again, I was going to have to ask a lot from it. When the time came, the towel looked at me incredulously and suggested I speak to the union. When they didn't show up, the towel threw itself in and slapped about me, wet and cold.

      Today's lesson, which the towel has since provided in writing as a formal complaint: test the shower before committing.

      I'm now sitting in the kitchen waiting for my hair to dry as I strongly suspect Spain sides with Italy in considering going outside with wet hair the most unhealthy thing you can do, up to and including swallowing fireworks. We'll see if I can stand up after, and go from there.
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    • Day 8

      Auf der Suche nach meinem Stein

      April 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Laut Erzählungen und Tradition soll auf dem langen Weg ein großes Kreuz sich befinden, an welchem jeder (s)einen Stein symbolisch ablegt, und mit Hilfe von Gott und Vertrauen an ihn, seine Sorgen, Geschichte, oder was auch immer der Sinn ist, dort lässt.

      Auch ich bin auf der Suche nach meinem Stein und ich weiß auch schon meinen Inhalt und Sinn den ich da lassen möchte, mit einem Teil der zum kreisschließen gehört.

      Ein paar Steine die mir zunächst ins Auge stachen hab ich schon in der Hosentasche und irgendwann entscheide ich mich welcher es sein wird. Er soll mich von nun an begleiten, meine Gedanken aufnehmen und dort seinen Platz finden.

      Zudem habe ich noch einen Stein gesammelt. Aber diese Geschichte erzähle ich an einer anderen Stelle. 😔
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    • Day 11

      Tag 11 von Torres del Rio nach Logrõno

      May 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Der Tag war wieder wunderschön aber anstrengend. Leider hat heute meine linke Wade zu gemacht. Ich hoffe es ist morgen wieder besser. Denn Stempel von Maria habe ich mir auch geholt. Er ist ja so etwas wie ein muss für Pilger. Die ältere Dame hat schon von weitem gerufen. Einfach super. Ich wollte mir eine Kirche anschauen es war gerade Messe da habe ich mich hingesetzt und den Gottesdienst genossen. Alles in allem ein sehr abwechslungsreicher Tag. Mal schauen was der Tag morgen bringt.Read more

    • Day 11

      Los Arcos to Logrono - part one

      April 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

      I had time to kill before dawn as I forgot to leave my head torch out and couldn't be bothered diving back in for it. Furthermore, and in a first, the albergue had sugar (!) so I made a cup of tea and read the first 10 pages of Wifedom to decide whether to bring it. I loved it instantly, and have since dipped into it at breakfast and in my post walk slump.

      Feeling particularly efficient, I sauntered out of the joint about 7.15am, a few metres behind a confident looking guy who I followed towards the road, where he promptly turned around and announced he was lost. We backtracked about 50m and got back on track, and he then insisted on walking together for the next seven kilometres.

      I've managed to avoid this so far so wasn't sure of the etiquette when he stopped to get out his tripod and DSLR every two seconds. I think his name was Jovan? Hungarian, big into birds, told me that thing yesterday wasn't an eagle, it was something else I can't remember the name of. Hump! Strike that sign then I guess.

      Approaching the first town of the day he'd jussssst started to express admiration for Trump and appreciation that Hungary rejected a bunch of refugees lately, so I resolved to do whatever he didn't at the bar. He stopped, so I kept going. He passed me when I was having breakfast in the next town a few kilometres further on. Seeya!

      I'd been harbouring a suspicion all morning that in my streamlined morning routine I'd managed to shed not only time but also the pair of underwear I was drying on the end of the bunk. I confirmed this at breakfast, but strangely couldn't bring myself to be upset about it. Yes, I've only got three (now two) and yes, they are a particular kind I won't be able to exactly replace here, and yes, I pride myself in taking care of things, but much more importantly, they're just scruds. Who cares.

      Oh I caught up with that Tescos plastic bag guy and asked if he's couriering his bag - he is. He's got FIVE pairs of boots in it, and he rotates each day. I still think a plastic bag is an insane day pack choice but you do you.
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    • Day 9

      Von los arcos nach torre del rios.

      May 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      Buenas noches. Heute sind wir den camino von los arcos nach torre del Rios gepilgert. Wir haben uns entschieden, nicht die ca 29km nach logrono zu pilgern und diese Etappe zu splitten. Bei fast 30° und 14kg Gepäck, sicher ein schwieriges Unterfangen. Am Ende hatte man nach ca 8km und Ankunft im Zielort, die Möglichkeit, sich etwas zu regenerieren. Morgen geht es dann die restlichen km nach logroño. Erkenntnis des Tages: weniger ist manchmal mehr.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Provincia de Navarra, Provinz Navarra, Navarre, Nabarra, Navarra, Província de Navarra, Nafarroa, Province de Navarre, ナバーラ

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