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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018
    Day15

    More from Estella

    September 6 in Spain

    Am so happy with the wifi after yesterday’s fiasco, that will add a few more from today. We are waiting till 7.30 for dinner...it doesn’t get dark till quite late, 9 or later, so it feels early. And the sun doesn’t rise till late - can’t remember exactly, but about 8 am or so, so we get up almost in the dark, to be ready in the morning. And Amr wants me to put a photo of the big bird!Read more

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018
    Day13

    Peaceful day in Pamplona

    September 4 in Spain

    We got up late today - I couldn’t get to sleep for ages last night, was so excited....seems silly, but we are suddenly in the world of Camino and you see walkers, and people say “buen Camino” ...and it IS exciting!. Anyway, in this lovely hotel we had a lovely breakfast which has kept us going all day. Again a perfect temperature- such a relief, and no sign of the predicted thunderstorms for tomorrow....but we are prepared for anything - it will just be a blessing if we don’t get saturated!

    So we have had vey pleasant wandering...we walked to the citadel which is now a beautiful park surrounded by the old walls, moats and bridges - had a peaceful kindle time on a seat there. Then we went to the bull ring which is very close to our hotel...we found we could have a tour inside (which we hadn’t done) with an audio guide so we did and it was fun and interesting. I can’t really get into it, but the running of the bulls is such a huge festival here, and I can enjoy the excitement by watching the videos and seeing all the paraphernalia! The Plaza de Toros is immense - can hold about 19,000 people (I think it was in fact 19,720!). I forgot to say, that before the citadel we also went to the cathedral and stamped our Camino passport. It is a lovely building, with fabulous cloisters which fortunately we saw in all their glory last time, as now they are surrounded by scaffolding.

    Now it is 5 o’clock and we are having a break before setting out to eat. I am writing up the day now, which i will do each day from now on - in the afternoon when we finish walking rather than just before bed...we plan to eat tonight at an art nouveau cafe on the square...Amr’s favourite decor, and everywhere prices are similar and food good. Tomorrow it all starts....    Read more

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018
    Day16

    Beautiful Walk to Los Arcos

    September 7 in Spain

    Today was great...it was still 24 kms, but it was undulating with gradual inclines, and through spectacular countryside. I have to say that I am relieved, as yesterday when we arrived at the hotel I was so hot and tired, I wondered if this was going to be fun after all. But today we set off with a different mindset - determined not to push too hard - we didn’t think we had been pushing hard - but today we almost sauntered! And also we stopped for a proper lunch - bacon and cheese bocadillo, apple - I don’t think we ate enough yesterday, just picked on a sesame bar....anyway, we are very happy and feel excellent.

    This is quite a mountainous area, there are mountains in the distance in every direction, and so many beautiful little hill towns. I am sorry there no sunflowers now, but there is still a spectacular panorama in every direction. More and more vineyards, with grapes ripening and looking heavy, olive groves, and we saw several fields of asparagus.

    This morning, soon after leaving Estella we passed the Fuente de Vino - the wine fountain for pilgrims...a monastery has a tap in the wall where anyone can get wine - there is also a spigot of water beside it! So even though it was only about 9 am we lined up and had a taste (handy that you can then fill up the bottle with water again). We didn’t do this last time...too intent on reaching the destination, and the morning not exactly a wine drinking time! But we got into the spirit of it today, and it was very drinkable wine! There is a webcam there that shows it all....

    Anyway, here we are in Los Arcos at a very nice hotel (different from last time) and we have a great room on a corner, looking over a square and trees, and close to everything - this is a very small town. And it is so good that dinners are included...we don’t have to think about where to go, and it is like going to a restaurant each night - the food is so good, many choices, and beautifully presented. And we are always so hungry!!    Read more

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018
    Day12

    En route to Pamplona

    September 3 in Spain

    We are in the train on the way to Pamplona. A 3 hour journey in a TGV equivalent, very smooth. So our adventure is sort of starting now. I think the entries so far have been pretty mundane..partly from jet lag and heat. We really enjoy Madrid, and have done our dose of culture there - and also the best way to escape the heat of the day. Despite all, our apps tell us that we walked quite a lot each day - 13 kms yesterday !! And there can’t be all that many kms in the galleries! We will return to our hostal in Madrid at the end of October for the last 4 days before we fly back to the US. Our plans for those days are day trips to Toledo and Segovia, but using Madrid as a base.

    I feel obsessed with the weather and unfortunately checked Pamplona for the next few days - it is a little cooler, but on Wednesday, the day we set off walking, there is 100% chance of heavy rain, and thunderstorms !!! No point agonising, but looks like we start off wet!

    Meanwhile we are heading north on the train, passing through the countryside, seeing fields of corn, sunflowers, small towns and craggy rocky hills. Very peaceful. We are staying at the same hotel in Pamplona as we did 5 years ago. Very nice, and just off the Plaza de Castillo. Will continue when we get there.

    ....we arrived just before 3 pm and are in heaven! Everything feels just right. Arrived at the station which we had never seen before as we had walked in and out of this town...got a bus and helpful people (and the bus driver) showed us where to get off for the Plaza del Castillo- and it all fell into place...we easily found the hotel, and remembered all the quirks - in fact I think we have the same room, except maybe on a different floor. This place has a one ⭐️ Michelin restaurant....(don’t think it had the star 5 years ago, but we did eat there one night), but the prices are ridiculously high, and we think we will enjoy the many other eateries which all seem to have a consistently high standard.

    After unpacking when we got to the room, we had a great walk, discovering areas we hadn’t noticed before and just wandering. We walked in last time and didn’t look back - this afternoon we walked around the walls of the old city and had a wonderful view back to the Pyrenees, across the river and the outer areas of the city. Glad we are not walking across them this time! Anyway we had a fun afternoon, came back and did washing and showering, and set out fashionably late enough to eat...Amr amazingly found the place we remembered and loved last time and we had a great meal there - the highlight being one of the magnificent salads they do here, plus some tapas. Tomorrow we will do more exploring, but no culture and lots of downtime. Also have to add that it is very pleasant temperature here!! A change from complaining. It was hottish but with a breeze in the afternoon, and coming back from dinner I almost felt COOL, something we haven’t experienced for days! From now on - for the next 48 days or so - our bags will be moved for us, our hotels organised...all is good.    Read more

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018
    Day15

    Today's walk to Estella

    September 6 in Spain

    We are now in the bar at our hotel having washed etc and just don’t want to leave, even to explore this rather lovely town. We did walk more than a kilometre through it to get to the hotel (off the Camino) as it is right out the other end. So we saw the huge old churches and squares and narrow streets. The town is surrounded by hills and has quite a colourful history of fending off invaders, and I think was the seat of the kings of Navarra. We are still in Navarra which is basque (until we get to Logroño which is in the Rioja) and signs are bilingual with the rather weird Basque versions before the Spanish.

    Anyway, we set off today at about 8.30 and for some reason thought it would be an easier walk than yesterday...about 20 kms or so...well, as usual it was more - Amr’s Apple Watch said 26!! And the equivalent of climbing 25 flights of stairs!! So you can believe we are a little weary now. Walking out of Puente la Reina we crossed the famous XII century bridge, and then had a lovely even walk until we saw a huge rock face and were glad we didn’t have to climb that...but we did, or the equivalent...the path went relentlessly uphill for a LONG time. We did then have a beautiful walk along the plateau, with a few more little ups now and then, and finally arrived here. Beautiful weather - cool in the morning, but hot in the afternoon, with a breeze. In the last stretch we saw an enormous bird in a field. In the distance I thought it was farming equipment, till we saw that it was moving and flapping wings a little. Amr thinks it may have been a condor, but whatever it was it was huge. Won’t put a photo as it doesn’t show properly how huge it was!

    Have not seen any sunflowers at all today, but some vineyards and olive trees, plus many fields of stubble. And we saw a large crop of asparagus!! This time we recognise it - last time the feathery leaves confused me...thought it may be fennel, but didn’t smell right.

    Anyway, it is wonderful fun, and we are recovering from the tiredness and aching bones...we even had a beer in the Plaza de Fueros on our way to the hotel, as we suspected we wouldn’t want to venture out again. Not as many walkers here as last night - a smaller hotel - so the wifi is much stronger. Here’s hoping this will upload fine, and will put some photos.    Read more

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018
    Day11

    Estella to Los Arcos

    April 30 in Spain

    Hey! Hello from Los Arcos, Spain...I hope everyone is well. I left Estella at 730 am after a great breakfast of rolled up salami & ham, croissant, orange juice and coffee. My first stop was to the wine fountain located 3 km out of town. The local winery offers the wine at no cost to pilgrims. They give a 100 liters/day. Tradition says that you fill your scallop shell that you carry and drink the wine for strength for the walk. So...I did just that. The scenery was amazing today and I have a lot of photos, but unfortunately I can only post 10 photos per day on this blog. The walk to Los Arcos was around 14 Miles today which went much better than yesterday. After a couple of stops for rest and lunch, I made it to Los Arcos at around 3pm. I arrived at an albergue and the guy at the desk informed me that the only beds he had left were on the attic level and it was only a mattress on the floor. And I said, Perfect! So, 10 euro for the “bed”...use of the facilities and breakfast....11 euro for dinner at a cafe beside the church, 3 euro for a caraf of wine while I write this....so, around $30 Not bad for all of that. That’s the great part about albergues. And Sam the Golden retriever is staying here as well! Tomorrow, most people are heading for Lograno which is a 17 mile walk. That is a long day so I may pull up short in Viana which is a walled city with a lot of cafes and such. Sometimes it is better to take the path less traveled...less crowded albergues etc. So, going to hit send on this and settle in, 9pm as I write this. Thank you for checking in!Read more

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018
    Day5

    Over the Pyrenees to Spain

    April 24 in Spain

    Thank you everyone for checking in! I left St Jean Pied de Port this morning at 7am. I hiked for 14 hours and finally made it to Spain. It was an extreme bitch of a day although the views were amazing. 28K....so about 18 Miles I think....all up and down steep grades. I hiked with a woman from the Netherlands this morning who was really really struggling which slowed me down a bit. Hiked the afternoon with a young Russian girl from Moscow....she was struggling as much as myself by evening being the first day out. Arrived tonight at 9pm at Roncesvalees...an old monastery from like the 13th century. It has been a sanctuary for pilgrims since that time. I couldn't get a photo of it as it was too dark when I arrived. Again, thank you everyone for checking in!Read more

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018
    Day9

    Pamplona to Puente la Reina

    April 28 in Spain

    Hey everyone! Thank you again for dropping by. I left Pamplona this morning around 8am with a group of people from last night. It didn’t take long to get separated however, as everyone walks at their own pace. I ended up walking the first few hours by myself and managed to lose my walking stick when I stopped to get a water refill and got distracted by a dog and left my stick. I didn’t realize it until a half hour later and I wasn’t going back to get it. Ugh. But, I am fine without it and it was always in the way when I was taking photos anyway. I stopped the small town of Zariquiegui which is the home of Iglesia de San Andres which is a 13th century church of which I have included photos of. And, it was in a scene of “The Way” ....a movie starring Martin Sheen about this trip. I ran into Elaine (Phoenix) and Anastasia (the young Russian girl). We got some lunch at a local cafe here...Coffe con leche’, orange juice and a banana for me. We climbed the Alto de Perdon which is at the top of a mountain with the wind turbines....which was a real bitch while humping a pack. And as much of a bitch going down the other side. I also ran into a girl that I met in Zubiri...a police officer from Brisbane Australia who has a thick accent much like Crocidle Dundee. I was looking down, fixing my pack when I heard “ Oh look....it’s my American paramedic friend”. She gave me some chocolate for energy for the trip over the top of the mountain...hikers are so good to each other on this trip. I lost touch with them all by early afternoon and met up with a young Italian guy who was struggling with a shin splint so we walked slowly...as I was hurting as well... for the last few miles into Puente la Reina. I am at an albergue tonight on the edge of town located at the top of a huge hill...just what I needed at the end of a long day...but it is $14.50 for the night...cheap enough for a bed and a shower, oh and a little bar. The place is a 100 bed albergue. I arrived at 5 pm and I was placed in a 4 bed room with Anastasia and Elaine...completely by chance....go figure! We lose Anastasia tomorrow as she is going further than the rest of us...the way it is on the trail. That’s it for now...hope everyone is well!Read more

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018
    Day7

    Gerendiain to Zubiri

    April 26 in Spain

    Hola from Spain! Thank you for checking in. Got up at 630 am. Had breakfast at the hotel...coffee, bread & jam. Started walking at 8am, shooting for Larsorona or Pamplona but stopped at Zubiri. The trail was hilly, rising and descending and realized that I wouldn’t get to Pamplona till late and larsorona had limited WiFi and only one unreliable pub so I opted to lay up in Zubiri. Zubiri is an industrial town with a magnesium factory/mine with a population of 435. It has a gothic bridge dating back to the Middle Ages. I arrived around 2pm and got a decent alberge for 15 euro...so about $18 with breakfast included. I got some laundry done...with only two sets of clothes, you do it often. I saw the town which didn’t take long, got some dinner...Chorizo, cheese and some kind of spicy peppers and ate it next to the river with my feet in the water. Headed to Pamplona in the morning...all flat terrain I hear. Take care and thanks!Read more

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018
    Day12

    Los Arcos to Logrono

    May 1 in Spain

    Today was an exceptionally tough day. My guide book said: “Enjoy the views as you walk through the beautiful rolling hills of La Rioja vineyards”. Well, that sounds beautiful but it translated to having to hump your pack up and down a lot of hills! My goal today was not to push it to Logroño as it was to far, however I reached Viana where I planned to stay and I could not find a bed or a room so I pushed on with a guy named James from the UK where he had a room booked in Logrono. We limped into Logrono at around 6pm. An 18 mile day which would have been fine had it been flat...but the hills...Ugh! I plan on a shorter day tomorrow...it is only an 8mile hike to the small town of Navarrette so I am shooting for that. Take care, I hope everyone is well. Thank you for checking in!Read more

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You might also know this place by the following names:

Provincia de Navarra, Provinz Navarra, Navarre, Nabarra, Navarra, Província de Navarra, Nafarroa, Province de Navarre, ナバーラ

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