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    • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
      1
      Day 22

      Afternoon in Ribadavia

      September 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Though my favorite Ribadavia attraction was San Xes, the 9 C church I saw on my way in, the rest of the day was fun too.

      First a good lunch — scallops and a goat cheese salad. Kind of a foodie place but it didn’t break the bank.

      Then a couple of hours wandering around. The judería (inhabited from 12C-16C) is nicely preserved. I assume the House of the Inquisition down the block had something to do with its demise, though. There are two Romanesque churches— both closed of course. The castle is only open in the morning, but it’s nice from the outside. Very fun time in the Plaza Mayor talking to one abuela whose 3 yo grandson was zooming around on a balance bike, and two dads helping their 10 yo daughters learn to roller skate. LOVE the plaza mayor in almost any Spanish place (except maybe Leon).

      One quick trip to a frutería— the first dried figs of the season arrived today so I got a few hundred grams. Batteries for my headlamp and chores are done.

      Early to bed for this peregrina.      Read more

    • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
      Day 23

      Ribadavia to Feas (29 km)

      September 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

      There was fog till about noon! It made things kind of ethereal. Today was almost all off-road, filled with rivers, vineyards, forests, and a killer ascent at the end. My GPS stopped recording, so I am not totally sure about the ascent, but the person whose tracks I followed recorded 900 m up and 500 down. That’s a lot for these old bones. But I’m still so grateful that even though I am definitely slowing down, I can still enjoy every day and relish the sensation that I’ve really given it my all.

      So many of these villages are in the process of depopulation. Most have some really nice fixed up houses, but those houses do not seem to be inhabited. I’m assuming they are summer homes, homes that once belonged to the great grandparents and that no one wants to live in year round. Then there are the totally falling down houses, and then there are some in between where the year-round residents live. Even in these tiny hamlets, the bread truck comes, the frozen food guy comes, the produce guy comes. Yesterday I coincided for about two hours with the Repsol truck. He was bringing those gas canisters. His horn blaring as he came through, people put out their empty canisters and he made the exchange. He was on the same route as I was apparently, so I had a honking horn symphony to listen to through four or five villages.

      I’m in a very nice Casa Rural, O Forno do Curro. There’s an old stone Forno/oven that was the place where all the villagers came to bake their bread. The only establishment with food is about a km down the road. I came in this afternoon on my way to the Casa Rural, just to confirm I would be eating dinner here. At that time about 30 men were at different tables, all playing dominoes. The bar owner, a woman, told me that the men come to play dominoes after lunch, while the wives were cleaning up and doing housework. But that the women would be in to play cards this evening. And sure enough they are here.

      Dinner is tomato and cheese salad, delicious seeded brown bread, eggs from the coop, and real french fries. Thankfulness overflowing.

      But as I was leaving the Night Shift dominoes guys arrived.      Read more

    • TravelerBrenda’s Camino
      Day 36

      Palas de Rei to Ardue

      June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      Today was hard. Just shy of 30km on rolling terrain most of the day. The sun was also out most of the day as well, so it was hot. I have developed something I have never experienced before, but you see it on the Camino all the time, "hiker's rash". I actually had it on my ankle at the beginning of the Camino, and it just went away, but now I have developed it on the back of my left arm. It doesn't hurt, just a bit red and itchy. Nothing a bit cortisone cream won't cure. Add that to the pharmacy I carry with me everyday.

      The terrain today was quite varied. The Camino begins to leave the oak and chestnut trees and now we are entering eucalyptus trees quite a bit. They smell wonderful. But the terrain also was on some roads, some busier than others, through villages and hamlets which are becoming increasingly more prosperous looking.

      The day was a bit more challenging because a school group of Irish girls are also hiking this last 100 km and seem to be on the same schedule as me, and though they are lovely and pleasant, I could do without the blaring music and their renditions of ABBA. So I found myself a few times, just stopping and waiting for a bit till they were further ahead.

      However, having said that, I am not a perfect pilgrim either. I had a what's app conversation with Claire for a bit, and then a video conversation with Christian in the last part of my day. They were both a welcome reprieve from a long day that was getting harder with every kilometre. It is not often that it is already nearly 6 pm before I am showered and getting organized. After two long days back to back, I am looking forward to a short 18 km day tomorrow.

      I visited the church of Iglesia de Santa Maria in San Xulian do Camino where legend says that the statue of Mary that was suppose to reside in the church kept being found by the fountain. In the 14th century, the villagers repeatedly put her back in the church, but she kept escaping, so they sculpted her into the wall to keep her firmly in the church!

      The Camino passes through a larger city of Melide, and though I was tempted by the "polpo" (octopus) which is a staple in this region of Galicia, I walked on through and thought that after a shower and some fresh clothes, and a glass of wine, I might enjoy it a bit more. It is a bit like lobster...I think they just boil it and serve it with some salt, and perhaps a sauce or spice. I have had it once already a couple of towns ago, and it is good. You just have to get over the fact that it looks like octopus, not the "calamari" we get which is considerably more appetizing and breaded!      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
      Day 16

      Day 52 - A Day in Ourense-Magosto Fiesta

      November 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Weather: 9 - 21 and sunny 🌞
      Feels like I have had a short winter and am back in Spring. 🙏🙏🙏

      The unfolding of an interesting day.
      At breakfast I started having a conversation with my roommate, Rebecca - although I didn’t ask her name till much later. Rebecca was having a day and night In Ourense before going to a yoga weekend in a nearby town. We chatted for a long time and the outcome was that we had a lovely day together.
      The Cathedral
      We started to head for the Tourist Information Centre but got sidetracked by the cathedral which was open and getting ready for a service associated with today’s Chestnut Fiesta. We looked and sat for quite a while - it was beautiful with good energy - and then continued on - but after getting all the info at the Tourist Centre we somehow ended up back at the cathedral where the service was about to begin.
      Of course now we stayed for the religious celebrations. The cathedral was full with lots of VIP types in the front rows. The ceremonies began with a procession of Galician bagpipers followed by men in white carrying a sacred statue. There was beautiful singing - choir and solo. It was an uplifting and interesting experience and in some ways reminded me of India where they also parade statues of great beings and sing and chant.
      We left when the speeches started because I couldn’t understand any of what they said.
      The service left us with a calm and uplifted feeling ready for the next event.

      Next the thermal pools
      By that time Rebecca had decided she wanted to stay in Ourense a bit longer than planned and wanted to revisit the thermal pools. She had been yesterday. So we hopped in her car and off we went. I felt very grateful because otherwise it would mean me deciphering the public transport or doing the 60 minute walk.
      We went to the ‘private’ pool - Outariz Thermal Station - which has a Japanese theme: lots of pools of different temperatures, pools with spa jets, cold pools to alternate with the hot, gentle music playing and notices encouraging silence and reflection. It took a while for me to relax into the experience but when I did it was blissful. I only got out when the body said that was enough for one day. If I lived in Ourense the ‘terma’ would be a regular event. For €5.70 you get a locker and two hours of bliss. Sorry no photos allowed. But I did take one of the public pool.
      https://www.turismodeourense.gal/en/recurso/est…

      The food expo came next
      This was a bit out of town - where we hoped to get something to eat. A bit of a disappointment in that the three course meals were between €30 and €60 but with pretty incredible menus. We had a look around and snacked on the free food. From what she shared, Rebecca seemed to be a bit of a foodie. She knew what foods were specialities in which areas and towns. Somehow I felt guilty taking the free food when I was never going to buy anything. But it was interesting to see the focus on good food in Galicia - and it shows in the meals I have had so far.
      Rebecca had a phone meeting so I had time to do a bit of journaling before we headed back to town.

      The Magosta Fiesta
      At 6 pm there was a concert and free roasted chestnuts in the Plaza Major. We got there a little before 6 and with Rebecca’s bold youth we quietly jumped the already huge queue to get our cone of chestnuts. She had to head off quickly and I had come all the way from Australia so I didn’t feel too bad about our bold move. The Spanish wait very patiently and when I left around 6.45 there was a queue around the corner and up the street.
      There was all sorts of local music and people dressed up as well-known traditional characters- with giant heads. It was great fun.
      The chestnuts were a bit of a disappointment - not so fresh - not as good as the ones the Korean girl roasted a few night ago. Nevertheless I had participated in the Magosta Fiestal and was very happy that I had participated in the free chestnut experience and heard some of the local music.
      However … on the way back to the hostel I chomped a chestnut on my sensitive tooth. It was very painful and I became grumpy and impatient with every one and everything. I remembered a saying of one of my teachers - trying to get pleasure from the world brings pounds of pain. Even though I had a lovely day I was reminded that all joy and happiness resides within.

      Buen Camino

      PS: After a good sleep, meditation and reflection, the next morning looked bright and cheerful again.

      Hostel Grelo
      Both the hospitalaros here speak English which is such a bonus for us Spanish deficient pilgrims. 😄
      The building is just on the edge of the old town and has three dorms. I think there are 6 of us here and spread out through the dorms so we are not in top of each other. There is a kitchen and lounge area. For €15 you get sheets, blankets (although I still used my sleeping bag/blanket as their blankets are a bit thin) and a towel and breakfast included. In Spain that is always toast or light pastry and coffee/ teas etc. because most people have eaten a big meal at 8.30 pm or later.      Read more

    • Spanien Portugal 2023
      2
      Day 10

      Im Paradies gelandet ❤️

      May 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      So langsam brauchen wir Meer 🤗 und tasten uns ganz langsam durchs Hinterland Richtung Vigo. Wie immer darf ich den Campingplatz aussuchen und bring mein Schatz mal wieder an seine Grenzen 😜
      Der Weg zum Campingplatz ist so spektakulär über enge Straßen....21 % Steigung....kleine Dörfchen, dass ich mit feuchten Händen für eine Stunde mal die Klappe gehalten habe.....und das will was heißen 😜
      Aber souverän gemeistert....wie immer....landen wir im Paradies ....❤️
      Auf dem wunderschönen kleinen Campingplatz "Canon do sil "
      mitten in den Bergen der "Ribeira Sacra" , dem bekannten Weinbaugebiet in Galizien !
      Und man glaubt es fast nicht....wir haben den Campingplatz für uns alleine 🤣😜

      ❤️Laut Mythologie verliebte sich Gott Jupiter in Galicia und überquerte den Mino Fluss um sie zu erobern. Von Eifersucht ergriffen, fügte seine Ehefrau Juno, Galicien eine tiefe Wunde zu. So entstand die atemberaubende Schlucht "Canon del Sil" ❤️
      ......die "Ribeira Sacra "
      Das Land der Götter 🥰      Read more

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    • Camino invierno
      Day 2

      Ponferrada nach Puente de Domingo (37km)

      April 15 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

      Heute haben wir uns auf unseren ersten Weg begeben. Ausgeruht und voller Vorfreude auf 35 km Wanderstrecke mit zwei Anstiegen über einmal 300 und einmal an die 400 Meter. Die erste Strecke führte uns durch Obst- und Kastanienhaine und an Weinfeldern vorbei. Danach wurde es Mittag und wir haben die ersten Eindrücke davon erhalten, dass unsere Füße schon jetzt an ihre Grenzen kamen. Gegen Ende der Wanderung passierten wir das "Las Medulas", ein Mittelgebirge, dass im Römische Reich eine der wichtigsten Goldminen war und so über den überaus landschaftlich hohen Reiz auch aus archäologischen Aspekten interessant ist. Die Berge waren wirklich beeindruckend. Zum Schluss stellte sich jedoch jeder Schritt, als Herausforderung dar. Aber so ist der Camino: er bringt einen körperlich und mental an die Grenze des machbaren und manchmal wächst man doch über diese Grenze hinaus. Nun haben wir im Hostel in Puente de Domingo Florez ein wundervolles Pilger-Menü genossen. Morgen geht es wieder auf den Camino und trotz der Anstrengungen ist die Vorfreude auf den nächsten Tag vorhanden.Read more

      See translation
    • Tour d'Europe
      Day 79

      Las Medulas

      June 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Réveil un peu difficile ce matin 😅, mais quand même motivés pour la rando du jour.

      Direction Las Medulas, une ancienne exploitation d'or à 🥇 à ciel ouvert au temps de l'empire romain.

      Super rando de plus de 10km avec des vues spectaculaires sur les faces ocres qui forment le paysage.

      Pas de grosses difficultés au départ, le temps était ensoleillé, mais il y avait du vent donc c'était parfait pour marcher. On est passé par des endroits assez sinueux par congre 😬. Heureusement qu'il y a de la végétation, parce que des fois, on ne savait pas trop ce qui retenait le chemin 🥲.

      Après un petit pique-nique sur une aire de loisirs, avec vue sur la vallée, on retourne doucement jusqu'au van pour reprendre la route.

      On passe la nuit dans notre premier parking de station essence 😅. Un peu glauque sur le papier, mais au final, c'était 5€ avec l'électricité, la douche était à 3€. C'était super propre et on avait serviette et savons.
      Autant dire, qu'après la rando la douche était plus que bienvenue.
      Pour couronner le tout, on avait un super point de vue que la vallée ⛰️🏔 donc 👌.
      Rémi a eu la visite de quelques enfants pendant son sport, qui l'ont pris en photo tel un animal de foire, il était ravi 🤣.

      On est quand même jusqu'en début d'après-midi, le lendemain pour profiter des commodités avant de reprendre la route 🚌.      Read more

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    • VanprojektRüdigerEuropareise
      Day 54

      Auf den Spuren der Römer

      October 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      In der Früh spazierten wir noch mal zum Aussichtspunkt der Las Medulãs. Eindrucksvoll, wie die Morgensonne das rötliche Gestein leuchten ließ. Und alles wirkte so friedlich in diesen Moment.

      Danach suchten wir uns einen Parkplatz in Las Medulãs und packten unseren Rucksack für die Wanderung.🎒
      Beim Infozentrum holten wir uns noch eine Karte und los ging die 11 Kilometer Wanderung. 🚶🚶‍♀️

      Auch hier ist so langsam der Herbst angekommen und die Blätter verfärben sich in den schönsten Farben. 🍂
      Für das sind wir gerade unfassbar dankbar, den Herbst so intensiv wahrzunehmen.🙏 Zu Hause im Arbeitsalltag bekamen wir das nie so intensiv mit .. aber hier sehen wir Tag für Tag, wie sich die Blätter immer mehr verfärben und sich zu einen farbenfrohen Blättermeer entwickeln. Wir lieben den goldenen Herbst. 🍁🥰

      Weder Wind noch Wetter haben diese großartige Landschaft der Las Médulas geschaffen, sondern römische Ingenieurskunst. Hier befand sich einmal die größte römische Goldmine auf der Iberischen Halbinsel. Der Naturpark zählt heute zum UNESCO-Welterbe. 💡

      Am Wanderweg sind immer wieder Tafeln mit Beschreibungen wie die Römer die Goldmine betrieben haben, sehr interessant. 👍🏼
      Und die Vorstellung was vor 2000 Jahren hier Römer erschaffen haben ist beeindruckend.

      Die Wanderung war sehr abwechslungsreich, es ging durch den Wald, vorbei an uralten, wunderschönen knorrigen Kastanienbäumen, die sicher einiges erzählen könnten, so alt wie die schon sind. 😅
      Es gab einige Höhlen zu bestaunen. Und wir kamen ganz schön ins Schwitzen, beim Fels entlang war es teilweise sehr heiß. 🔥🌡️
      Immer wieder hatte man eine tolle Aussicht auf die Goldmine, die rötlich erstrahlte.

      Wieder beim Bus angekommen, waren wir ganz schön fertig aber es hat sich ausgezahlt. 🙂      Read more

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    • Camino invierno
      1
      Day 4

      A Rúa nach Quiroga (29 km)

      April 17 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Heute ging es durch eine Menge kleiner Ortschaften entlang des Rio Sil. Jedoch haben wir den Verlauf des Rio Sil immer aus einer gewissen Höhe betrachten können. Auf dem weg nach Quiroga gibt es keine Möglichkeit Wasser aufzufüllen, jedenfalls nicht in Form eines Supermarktes oder eines Restaurants. So hatten wir uns in A Rúa gestern schon entsprechend mit ausreichend Wasser eingedeckt. Vereinzelt haben die Bewohner der Dörfer Pilger-Stationen eingerichtet, an denen man Wasser, Kaffee und Obst erhalten kann. Manche bieten sogar die Möglichkeit das Handy zu laden. Am Ende des Tages sind wir gut in unserer Herberge angekommen und es bleibt nur, sich wieder auf den nächsten Tag vorzubereiten, was auch immer er bringen mag.Read more

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    • VanprojektRüdigerEuropareise
      Day 53

      Hallo Lichtmaschine

      October 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      In der früh war es richtig ungemütlich, stürmisch, nebelig, es regnete.. Also Studierten wir den Wetterbericht. Da es die nächsten Tage an der Küste eher wieder nicht so gut meldet, beschlossen wir, ins Landesinnere zu fahren.

      Unser Ziel waren die Las Medulas, die uns empfohlen wurden. 🙂

      Aber vorher suchten wir noch eine Werkstatt auf, da die Ladespannung für die Startbatterie beim fahren nicht passte.🤔 Wir wurden gleich herzlich begrüßt und unser Auto wurde schnell begutachtet. Wie immer Vorführeffekt - das Problem war weg. 🙈 Wir machten uns aus, das wir die Batterie die nächsten Tage beobachten und uns melden.

      Die nächsten 2 Stunden fahren trat das Problem auch nicht mehr auf. Mittlerweile wissen wir, was da los ist, aber dazu morgen mehr. 🙂

      In Las Medulas angekommen gingen wir noch zu der Aussichtsplattform. Dort hat man eine tolle Sicht auf das Areal, wirklich beeindruckend!
      Den weder Wind noch Wetter haben diese großartige Landschaft der Las Médulas geschaffen, sondern römische Ingenieurskunst. Hier befand sich einmal die größte römische Goldmine. 🪙

      Danach telefonierten wir noch mit Sophias Eltern und gingen ins Bett, morgen steht wandern am Programm. 🙂      Read more

      See translation

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Provincia de Ourense, Ourense, Orense, Província d'Ourense, オレンセ（オウレンセ）

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