Spain
Punta Lagosteiras

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    • Day 48

      Tag 48 Muxia und mal entspannen

      June 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Heute hieß es mal entspannen und den Tag ruhig angehen.
      Ich muss sagen das ich das auch einmal gebraucht habe.
      Die letzten Tage waren teilweise schon schwerer .
      Muxia ist einfach traumhaft die Kirche am Meer und das ganze feeling einfach der Wahnsinn.
      Ich lag heute 1 Stunde einfach auf den Steinen traumhaft.
      Heute gab es auch noch eine Prozession sehr interessant.
      Sonst habe ich heute nicht viel gemacht .
      Fühle mich einfach müde aber ich denke das ist normal.
      Morgen geht's in Richtung Finestere wo ich übermorgen ankomme.
      Mal schauen wies weitergeht.
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    • Day 31

      Muxía

      August 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Today was a really special day. I took the bus from Santiago to Muxia, one of the coastal towns that is also connected to the Camino if you decide to keep walking. It’s a small village with mostly local people and a few pilgrims.

      I arrived midday and went right to the beach for a swim. The ocean water was cold, but I saw other people swimming so I knew it was possible! It was the perfect way to mark the end of my Camino - by swimming in the ocean. The shock of the cold water felt invigorating.

      The rest of the day was just as delightful. I walked to the end of the peninsula to see a stone church that was built right along the water. I watched the waves crashing against the rocks for a while and enjoyed the familiarity of the Atlantic ocean and rocks and the ways it looked and felt similar to Maine.

      Dylan happened to have planned a day at the beach with his mom, so we waved to each other across the ocean.

      I ended the day collecting seashells and watching the sunset on the beach. A pretty perfect day.

      I can hear the waves on the shore even as I write this and go to bed.
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    • Day 41

      Muxia, Spain

      April 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      We moved a little further north along what is known as La Costa da Morte, "The Death Coast," to Muxia, [pronounced moo-she-a]. We spent a few days here before both of us caught stomach bugs. After 2 months of traveling, it was bound to happen. We still managed to explore this quaint fishing village rich in legend and gooseneck barnacles.

      Some believe that Mary (yes, the Virgin Mary, Jesus’ mother) appeared along the rocky shores of Muxia in a stone boat to encourage the Apostle James to keep preaching. The stone boat then broke up into smaller stones. These stones are still here, and legend has it that they possess healing powers. Pagan legend predating Christianity’s takeover of Spain also regard the stones with mysticism.

      Perched behind the mystical rock formations stands the Sanctuary of “A Nosa Señora da Barca” the Virgin of the Boat, originally built in the 12th century to replace Celtic worshipping grounds. Whether you are a believer or not, seeing the cathedral along the rocky shores is a sight to behold, especially at sunset. To me, that’s when the real magic happens.

      Like Finisterre, Muxia is another finishing point on the Camino de Santiago. If you saw the movie, "The Way," this is where Martin Sheen’s character sat on the rocks and released the ashes of his son.
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    • Day 43

      Day 40 - The sea is calling!

      October 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

      “The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.” - Jacques Cousteau

      Day 40 - Finesterre to Muxia by bus

      Well yesterday was fun! Three Netflix movies, two slices of toast, four plain cookies and 2 rolls of toilet paper! Lordy. At least I woke up feeling better today and was able to hop the morning bus to Muxia.

      I love the sea, the salty smell in the air and the brisk brisk breeze that usually accompanies a seaside town. Muxia has all of that. It also has the usual parade of bars and restaurants along the front, lots of seagulls and lots of rain. Again with the poncho on, poncho off all day.

      Thankfully, I was able to leave my backpack at the hostel I was supposed to have checked into yesterday, as check-in wasn’t until noon (and it was only 10:45). Lost those € for the night I wasn’t here, but what could I do?

      Off I go to wander the town. Up and down the small streets, along the front where I watched a couple of women clam digging and around the small harbour. The wind was blowing and the rain was coming down. I didn’t last too long. But then, neither did the rain! By the time I got back to the area where the bars are, the rain had stopped.

      I continued out of town and towards the lighthouse and Santuario da Barca. The Muxia 0.000km marker and the A Frerida (Wounded) sculpture. The wind up here was almost as crazy as at Finesterre!

      The cultural history of this town is linked to the Sanctuary of A Barca and the surrounding stones. It has been the object of magical-religious worship throughout the centuries and of veneration for the thousands of pilgrims who travel the Camino Xacobeo from Santiago to Muxía – Fisterra. The arrival at the Sanctuary becomes the long-awaited reward for the effort made to reach the end of the Camino, the place where the Virgin arrived in a stone boat to encourage the Apostle Santiago . The pilgrimage of La Barca is recognized as being of National Tourist Interest.

      The place is spectacular. And I had to stop myself taking too many photos! The religious precinct itself and the atrium that extends beyond the low wall, towards where the "magic" stones are, with healing and divinatory properties: the Pedra de Abalar (oscillate), the Pedra de Os Cadrís (Kidneys), Pedra dos Namorados (lovers) and the Pedra de O Temón (rudder). They are the remains of the boat in which, legend has it, the Virgin arrived by sea to encourage the apostle Santiago in his gospel.

      The temple was rebuilt several times, it is believed that four times, the last time in 2015. On Christmas Day 2013, the sanctuary suffered a tragic fire that left the altarpiece and the ceiling completely burned. Only the exterior walls and elements such as benches and confessionals remained standing. In addition, the lateral altarpieces could be recovered.

      I need to go back tomorrow as I want to look at the stones with new eyes since I did not know the history until after I had been there. I also missed the A Pel fountain. This is a beautiful and magical place located next to an old pilgrim path known as the A Pel path. It is very close to Punta de la Barca.

      In the spring, pilgrims and the sick bathed before entering the sanctuary of A Barca as a measure to avoid spreading leprosy. The Perello room (a perello is a demon or goblin) is made up of enormous stones that form a room inside it that can only be discovered by approaching it. This imposing mass dominates the vision in this stretch of coast.

      I walked back along a different wet path that took me past an old church and it’s cemetery. Church was locked, but I was able to take a photo of the cemetery (one of two areas) - which intrigues me. I have always loved old cemeteries. But the ones here in Spain are all vaults, which is so different to other countries I have been too. The cemeteries are almost always on the edge or just outside of cities and towns. Generally by a church but not necessarily. Most are enclosed behind high whitewashed walls with a cross at the entrance. And almost all internments are in vaults, several stories high. This type of burial is due to the ground generally being too hard and rocky to dig ground level graves as we know them. Apparently, this is the same as in Italy. Hhmmm… the things you learn!

      Finally checked in to my Albergue and it is almost completely empty. I think there are 3 or 4 people here and room for maybe 20. Got my bed made and then decided it was time to test my stomach with lunch. I found a cute little bar that I had been told was really good, and had padrón peppers and fried clam strips. With wine of course because it’s cheaper than tea or water!

      I later walked out the other end of town towards the beaches. Again, the wind was really bad, so I turned back after getting close enough to to take a couple of photos. Contrary to popular opinion (because I like to be different!), I think I prefer Finesterre to Muxia. I was closer to the beach there (although I didn’t get to go to it ) and I like the vibe a bit more.

      After that big lunch, it was a pre-packaged salad for dinner and time for an early night. Tomorrow I will meet Tracy and head to her Pilgrim post-Camino retreat home, where I am volunteering until the 29th.
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    • Day 39

      Etappe 33 - Muxia 1

      October 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

      Heute ist die letzte Etappe an der Reihe.
      Die ganze Nacht hat es wieder gestürmt und geregnet.
      Werde heute, etliche Pilger haben dies ebenfalls vor, den Bus nach Muxia nehmen.
      Noch einmal bei Regen laufen, habe ich einfach keine Lust mehr.
      Vielleicht zieht sich das Wetter doch noch auf, so wie gestern.
      Glück gehabt - ab 13.30 Uhr kam die Sonne vor. Dies hat zu einem zweistündigen Rundgang durch Muxia verleitet.
      Dabei habe ich, trotz Sturm, schöne Schnappschüsse einfangen können. War auch beim Kilometer Null des Jakobsweges.
      Kulinarisches stand auch auf der Agenda: Pizza mit Pulpo.
      Heute abend geht es noch zur Pilgermesse.
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    • Day 27

      Abreise Start - Mittwoch Nr 1

      June 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      Bei Regen Abfahrt 06:15

      Und der Himmel weint mit mir

      😢 Snief 😭

      Abreisegedanken

      Nun sitz ich im Bus von einer der Perlen der Reise Muxia nach Santiago de Compostela. Kam mir gerade der gesamte Schwall der Reise und Camino 2. Zerspringen wollte ich voll Stolz seit verfrühter Start bis heute, vor Glück ebenso, erneut eine solche Erfahrung erlebt zu haben. Tränen laufen vor Traurigkeit dass die Reise ihr baldiges Ende findet. Übel ist mir von den Kurven der Straßen und der Busfahrt.

      Und dennoch versuche ich wieder wie es im Leben sein soll:

      Aufstehen, Schlafsack zusammenrollen, Rucksack final packen und sich für Aufbruch entscheiden, Orte und Gedanken hinter sich zu lassen. Neuen Mut für das Kommende zu fassen, den Glauben daran bewahren, alles wird gut und Vertrauen darin und in sich selbst.

      Camino 1 danke für meine Vergangenheit und erreichen der Gegenwart.

      Camino 2 danke für die Zukunft.
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    • Day 145

      Von Muxía nach Oia

      July 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Als ich in Muxía in der Schlange vor dem Bus darauf warte, mein Ticket kaufen zu können, blicke ich zu Addie und Maru zurück, die mit mir auf den Bus gewartet haben. Maru zieht mit den Fingern seine Mundwinkel nach oben, um mich daran zu erinnern, zu lächeln.
      "Besser!", ruft er, als er sieht, dass es funktioniert. Dann beginnen die beiden "Don't worry, be happy" zu summen. Und zum Abschied geben sie mir noch unser gruppeneigenes, etwas lächerliches Winken mit auf den Weg.
      Als ich im Bus sitze und mir die beiden immer noch winken, kommen mir schließlich die Tränen. Ich forme mit Daumen und Zeigefinger ein kleines Herz, wie Maru es uns beigebracht hat. Dann setzt sich der Bus in Bewegung.

      Meine Reise von Muxía über Santiago und Vigo nach Baiona verläuft reibungslos. Allerdings wird mir etwas übel, da ich schon ewig so gut wie gar nicht Bus gefahren bin.
      In Baiona werde ich von meiner Freundin Tanya abgeholt. Sie kommt aus den USA, lebt aber in Oia, einem kleinen Ort in Galicien, der am Camino Portugués por la Costa liegt. Dort betreibt sie eine Pilgerherberge, in der ich letztes Jahr über ein Monat ausgeholfen habe.
      Oia ist mit dem Auto nicht weit von Baiona und so sind wir schnell am Ziel. Ich fühle mich sofort wie zu Hause. Und bin in der Herberge, wo Tanya mir ein Bett freigehalten hat, sogar wieder unter Pilgern!
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    • Day 47

      Tag 47 von San Martiño nach Muxia

      June 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Heute ist ein ganz besonderer Tag für mich ich komme nach Muxia.
      Dieser Ort ist für mich etwas ganz besonderes ich verbinde mit diesem Ort Glauben und Spiritualität.
      Allerdings war heute nach der Ankunft erstmal ausruhen angesagt.
      Am Abend geht es zu der Kathedrale am Meer .
      Dort findet heute um 19 Uhr ein Pilger Gottesdienst statt denn ich natürlich besuche.
      Morgen habe ich dann den ganzen Tag Zeit mir alles genau anzuschauen.
      Die Herberge ist auch wieder sehr schön.
      Aber dieser Moment wenn du das erste mal auf das Meer siehst einfach Wahnsinn.
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    • Day 27

      June 13

      June 13 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

      It was a good feeling waking up and knowing I didn't have to walk today. While it's been an incredible journey and I have seen many spectacular sights and wonderful encounters, I am thankful to be done. Lorelee and I began our day with some beach time at Praia Lires. We had the entire beach to ourselves and it was so peaceful to rest there, listening to the gentle waves as the soft sea breeze whispered while we watched sail boats on the horizon. It was difficult to leave the tranquility of this place, but eventually we made our way back to the hamlet to catch a taxi to Lires. Our taxi driver was very friendly and pointed out a lot of landmarks along the way. Unbeknownst to us, Mary had just arrived at our albergue and greeted us in the lobby when we arrived, perfect timing! The three of us set off for lunch. We took advantage of some of the local traditional dishes and shared Padron peppers, scallops and salad followed by dessert. A brief exploration of the town followed that was shortened because it started raining. After 3 weeks of walking, this is our first experience with any amount of rain, and for that I am very thankful. It was a very dreary afternoon in Muxia, but I did manage to drag myself out to join Lorelee and Mary exploring the town. We had fun taking photos on the rocks and managed to stay standing despite the extremely strong winds. We have a lovely large room that is spacious even with the three beds, a couch, desk, a table and chairs and we have a view of the sea. A perfect space to stay cozy and get a good nights sleep.Read more

    • Day 27

      Last day on the Camino - Muxia

      June 13 in Spain ⋅ 🌫 16 °C

      Decided to opt out of the day of walking and Helen and I spent the morning at the beach in Lires and took a cab to Muxia where Mary, who was walking, was there to greet us!
      We spent some time exploring Muxia and went to an evening mass at 7pm.
      In ending this Camino, I must say it has been one of the most difficult Caminos of the 3 I’ve done. Of course a lot due to my foot issues, but I also struggled a lot emotionally.
      With my mother in law passing away on the 27th of May whilst I was away❤️, and the upcoming anniversary of Peter’s death ❤️ on the 17th of June, and all of the “firsts” of going through this past year, this Camino has been an emotional roller coaster to say the least.
      Turning 60 while away was a highlight for sure as I knew I wanted to be away for that, and I’m so grateful especially to Mary and Helen for making it such a special day ❤️❤️
      And it was so nice to have Joyce and Kamala join us in Santiago to make our trek to Finisterre and Muxia a “Party of 5”!!! (even if Helen and I bused and taxied some of the way…… just because we can!!)
      We are back to Santiago today at 11am to overnight, and then my journey back home to Kamloops will begin.
      After 4 weeks of being away, I can say that I am ready for home and my familiar surroundings ❤️❤️❤️❤️.
      Goodbye to the Camino de Santiago again… 😊
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