Baltic States Cycle

After the scorching heat and sunshine of the first week of riding, the prospect of finally getting some relief was something to bring cheer to a tiring Ghostrider peloton. The local Lithuanian weather wallahs had promised us a cooler day with the possibility of some passing showers. I don't think that any of us would have looked forward to another hot day in the full sunlight.

We left the hotel around 10 am and made our way along some very well constructed bike paths and cycling lanes out of Klaipeda. After 30 minutes we had left the city behind and were enjoying some lovely shaded bike paths through thick forests. This is the type of cycling that really makes these trips worthwhile.

Throughout the day we were steadily heading north and were never very far from the coast of the Baltic Sea. The temperature was very comfortable for riding and we even experienced that Holy Grail of cycling known as a "tail wind" for much of the ride. It seemed that all the effort we had put in over the previous days was finally being rewarded.

After about an hour of riding we came across a stall selling drinks and ice creams. We have learnt that you NEVER pass these opportunities by as you never know when the next opportunity will occur. I was even able to buy the very rarest of roadside delicacies - a chocolate milk shake. It was heavenly.

Some kilometres further on we took a short detour to the beach. It was too good an opportunity not to sample the water, so off went my shoes and socks and in I went. To my surprise the water was quite mild. Gradually some of the others gathered the courage to join me in the water. Lothar really embraced the moment by dropping his pants and his shirt and jumping right in.

Fortunately when we reached Palanga there were many options for lunch. This place is obviously a summer holiday mecca and there were cafes and ice cream vendors everywhere. The highlight was the huge botanical garden, at the centre of was the huge royal palace of Count Tyszkiewicz (well known for his catchy name ) which had now been converted to an amber museum.

We spent some time wandering the museum and learning how clumsy the prehistoric insects must have been to all manage to come to an untimely end embedded in tree resin. This resin eventually hardens to form amber. In fact amber seems to be the major industry and export from this region.

The final 20 km of the ride was along one of the most delightful bike paths you could find anywhere. The path was shaded, the surface was smooth and wide and offered an amazing cycling experience. As it meandered through the thick forests we occasionally caught glimpses of the water on our left hand side. Bird songs echoed through the trees. I could not stop smiling. I was even encouraged to try saying hello to some of the passing riders, but only sometimes did I get a half hearted response.

Our hotel situated right in the middle of a sprawling holiday resort and we had to navigate through a confusing maze of tiny pathways till we finally reached the Amber Spa Palace. It had an imposing name and it certainly looked grand from a distance.

It was only when we received our keys and went to our rooms that several of our team made the unwelcome discovery that their rooms had not been cleaned after the previous occupants had left. As I walked into my room I felt a bit like the three bears when they returned to their home and found that someone had been sleeping in their beds. Indeed someone HAD been sleeping in my bed, using my towels and had even left their wet bath robes hanging on a peg. I was not happy.

I went back down to the reception, full of righteous indignation, expecting to receive an apology. I never got one. They did not even seem to regard it as a big deal. Perhaps they thought I should have just said nothing and slept on the used sheets. For a fancy hotel, it was an inexcusable error, especially when three others found the same problem.

I was finally shifted to another room, and I think the towels were clean. It was the "Richie Benaud" room number 222. Soon after I arrived at my new room, the air was rent by claps of thunder and soon the skies opened. The long predicted thunderstorm had finally arrived. I sat out on the balcony and enjoyed the sweet, fresh and cool air.

The other strange aspect of this hotel was what happened in the so called restaurant. We had been told that dinner would be served at 8 pm, but when a few of us gathered for drinks,we noticed that the breakfast buffet was already set. Maybe the food had been out all day. When we queried what the procedure was, we were told that was our dinner. I could have saved some time the next morning by having my breakfast as well.

It was a strange system, but we have learnt that things in the Baltics don't always follow world's best practise. At least the coffee was free and I don't think I have got food poisoning (yet). I will be very interested to see if the same pickled herrings are still on the same plate in the morning.

It was after tea that the final great event of the day took place. Marg's luggage had gone missing about a week ago when she arrived at Vilnius. The search for the lost luggage had gone on day after day until it was finally located. You can imagine her relief and joy when she finally saw a hotel employee wheeling her precious luggage bag up to the front door of the hotel. Some stories really do have happy endings after all.Leia mais