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Camino

September - October 2023
A 52-day adventure by Sarah Read more
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  • TravelerCamino
    12
    Day 47

    Epilogue

    October 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Thankyou for all your messages of support after we had finished the Camino. I've really enjoyed writing the blog and getting messages back .
    We are now in Paris and are catching up with my Irish family which is wonderful. Paul drove all the way up from Barcelona to meet us in Finisterre and had good craic with him there, even finding a pub to watch the AB v Argentina game! Finisterre is the very end point of the Camino by the sea. Back in the day the pilgrims looked out to the horizon thinking the world was flat and that it really was the end of the world.
    It's a beautiful spot and am posting a video of the bag pipes being played at the lighthouse area. Beautiful sea food there too.
    Then Paul drove us back up to Santiago and had another night out with him in a tapas bar with delicious food and albuerina wine!
    Yesterday we flew up to Paris, sadly leaving Spain but Hele n, Annabel and Eva from. Ireland are here and had a great catch up last night.
    So this is the end if my blogs
    I look back now and already those days of walking in the heat , or under a full moon with the sun rising seem a long time ago. I know that the spirit of the Camino is pretty special and was so wonderful to have shared the experience with Brian, Lee and Jane.
    Buen Camino    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    1111
    Day 46

    We have made it!

    October 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    What a day of adventure and emotions!
    After an amazing breakfast of cereal fruit yoghurt and the beautiful local cheese and quince paste we set off in the wind rain and dark! I had 2 layers of ponchos on and looked like a bag lady!
    But all we had was only 1 job to do today and that was to.put one foot in front of the other for 20 km.
    How proud were we of the team of eight plodding on in the dark, torrential rain and rivers of water coming down the paths. I am sure the walk was pretty, but concentration was required to stop us completely tipping over in the mud and slush.
    Given all that , there was such an exuberant atmosphere of all the pilgrims, some of which we have traveled with from the beginning ,knowing the end was near.
    On we squelched with a coffee stop and then an
    early lunch break 5 km away from the Cathedral. By then the rain had stopped and even some sun . We could see the spires in the distance of the Cathedral and it was all pretty exciting.
    I looked down at my shoes with splits down the sides and was so happy I never have to put them on again!
    On we walked and the crowd of pilgrims seemed to increase but the buzz was amazing. On the way in there were Mat and Tass and so excited to see us, plus many other familiar faces.
    Finally we walked through a tunnel and came out into the square with the mighty Compestella Santiago before us. We had made it after 37 days and 780 km of walking.
    What an adventure and Brian and I couldn't think of better friends then Jane and Lee to have walked the Camino with. Lots of fun and we were just the best team.
    How proud Jack would have been of us walking the Frances Camino at our own medium pace and he would have said "whoa you did it!"
    I may have to write a final blog tomorrow to sign off but now it's time to explore Santiago. Don't think I will be eating the octopus!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    Day 44

    Arzua to Pedrouzo

    October 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    Can not believe we only have one more day of walking on the Camino Frances and under 20 km left to go.
    We started off this morning in the pouring rain and quite a bit of wind so not ideal walking conditions but us hardy souls knew the show must go on. It quite dark at 8 am now so we don't want to leave too early and we are not dealing with the heat of the Meseta
    The paths are becoming increasingly crowded with pilgrims but we can not complain as we are part of the crowd! Although there are at times too many in the cafes there is also a festive vibe now. I think we all know the end is near and the challenge of the 780 km walk has almost been achieved.
    Luckily Brian's spider bite did not get worse overnight and armed with panadol and a good antihistamine cream he managed the 20 km walk.
    The day did improve and was again very pretty and very rural. I must say when we are walking in forests of gum trees and the wind is fierce I am very happy to move along quickly.
    We had the most delicious lunch today. The boys had hamburgers which they declared the best they had eaten. I had a delicious blue cheese tomato salad. This area is famous for the soft cheeses they make plus their octopus dishes.
    Pedrouza doesn't look to be the most exciting town and our window is looking out to cows!
    Shoes are holding out just and with the rain and a bit of mud they are not overly waterproof.
    We still continue to meet different interesting people every day and re meet up with others. Lee went up to 3 Sth African walkers and quietly stated that the All Blacks will beat SA in the final! This created great shrieks of protests and laughs.
    Today there was a group of about 6 blind people all with guides walking on the track. There seems to be a great army of volunteers who support the disabled on the Camino.
    The wind is blowing outside but the Spanish wine, octopus, and cheeses are waiting for us!
    Buen Camino.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    1
    11122
    Day 43

    Palas de Rei to Arzua

    October 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Last night we had a very Galician meal at a quaint pub. Squid with baby octopus which is a traditional dish here. It was all totally delicious. Jane Brian and Lee had had an earlier session with an Irish psychiatrist who informed them that the Galicea people identify more with being celts then spanish. He has walked the Camino 5 times so guess he a bit of an expert. 3 lively Scottish colleens walked in while having dinner and had got stuck in a pub and had yet to book into their hostel but were full of fun. Not sure how their walking panned out today.
    After a standard breakfast we set off in the dark as had a 29 km walk ahead. Unfortunately Brian yesterday had been bitten by a ? Spider and had a red lump but overnight had grown. Nurse Emmanuel Sarah and Jane decided care needed to be taken. At morning tea break the redness had increased.
    On we walked through pretty lush countryside with amazing groves of trees , streams and old bridges.
    Finally we got to a biggish town called Melide and luckily Jane remembered a great place she and Suzie had had lunch at 4 years ago. The lunch was stunning and our Kenyam friend Rose joined us ( with her voodoo stick) Photos of menu below)
    Lots of up hills continued and after about 19 km.Brian said his leg was really sore . Luckily beside a great location with a food truck and they ordered a taxi. Was I worried about not walking the final 10 km ,not a bit! The rain was coming.down and best Brian get his leg up.
    So here we are in Arzua, a plain little town but staying in a wonderful hotel run by a stunningly beautiful young lady. We have ended up at the local pub and had delicious lasagne and pizzas. We caught up with some of the young and one.we have walked with from the beginning that we had named Jesus. Guess which one he is. As only the young can do after numerous beers they are walking.on another 10 km in the rain!
    Such a great spirit though with young and old. We will certainly miss this wonderful team spirit of so many nationalities all sharing the same experiences
    Shout out to Jane and Lee who walked the whole 29 km today and in the pouring rain for last 2 hours. Lee last seen in the laundromat!
    2 more days    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    Day 43

    Portomarin to Palas de Rei

    October 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After a bit of a late night watching SA v France game we were up early having breakfast before we departed. It was such a treat to see cereal laid out and even kiwi fruit! Almost feltlike home. Rachael our host was a sweetie and in her limited English and our more limited Spanish we all chatted over breakfast. The hotel had the theme of the Godfather and was very modern.
    Off we set with many others which we are still getting use to. There were quite a few climbs today so the heart rate was going up !
    Really pretty countryside similar to the last few days with the rural theme continuing. Jane befriended a dear old alsation who looked like he might join us for the walk.
    The light rain came mid morning and carried on for most of the day.
    Our destination seemed a long time coming today but finally we were checking into our hotel about 3.30 pm. It is very quaint with lace trimmed pillows on the beds and thick brick walls.
    My shoes are holding in there just and I see s split on one side so may have to do some repairs.
    3 more days of camino walking. Will miss the simplicity of this life and the interesting people we meet but think my feet will be thanking me!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    1
    11
    Day 42

    Sarria to Portomarin

    October 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    So we went to bed last night very happy kiwis and woke up this morning very happy tired kiwis but what a game last night!
    Off we set in the dark and probably just as well as we had a steep long climb out of Sarria. On and on we climbed and stopped for breakfast about 6 km along the way. Decidedly needed.
    It started off misty in the morning and then the steady drizzle set in but the walk was so pretty with all the huge ancient oaks and chestnuts forming canopys along the way.
    I seem to take lots of photos of happy cows but it all looks so peaceful apart from the rural smells at times!
    The walk has changes somewhat in that there are heaps more walkers and gone is the peace of the Meseta but it's at times like a walkathon. Many have only just started so we feel a tad smug that we have come so far.
    On we walked for 24 km and never did the rain stop but almost preferable to searing heat.
    We celebrated our arrival into Portomarin by a delicious late lunch at an Italian restaurant .
    The descent into Portomarin was quite a challenge walling down a steep rocky hillside. Twice I landed on my backside but luckily I landed " lightly" Our shoes are getting a bit worn.
    The team of 8 ( feet) are also getting a bit worn and my left foot is certainly a foot only a mother could love! Calloused, 2 missing toenails and a small blister. It could be letting the team down! We still lie puttour feet up against the wall after every walk.
    We passed a rather insignificant marker to say only 100 km to go.
    Staying in a very modern hostel and have just returned from one of the best meals yet on the Camino. Waldorf salad , stuffed chicken breast and home made apple cake with not a chip in sight, plus the friendliest waiter.
    We will sleep well    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    1
    Day 41

    Triacastela to Sarria

    October 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today we set off in good spirits knowing we only had 18 km to walk, probably our shortest walking day yet. It was a cool dark morning but had had our coffees , toast and orange juice to set us up up for the day. The weather today was perfect for walking, sunny but not too hot.
    Lots of up hills and down dale today with more beautiful valleys of oaks and chestnuts only just turning colour. Again it was a very rural walk with walking along paths laden with cow pats to guide us on our way!
    After an hour or so we had to stop and check on the election result . We sat in a very "agricultural" spot to see that National had positioned themselves to be the new government and was happy to see that Winston ( hopefully) will not be the kingmaker.
    Had our morning coffee in a great cafe where the cows were coming past to graze after milking. On we walked through a couple of small villages on a lazy Saturday morning. Firewood was being collected for winter and tractors carting hay. The wonderful thing on this walk is that you feel you are looking at Spanish life through the back doors! Nothing is prettied up and we just see life as it is here.
    By 1 pm we had walked into Sarria which is not a particularly pretty town and we had a steep street to climb to get to our Hostel. Sarria is a very busy Camino town as many people who don't have time to walk the whole Camino will start here as it's 100 km to Santiago.
    After a long lunch ..calamari starter, loin of pork and chips, tinned pineapple and vino blanco we returned to our Hostel with one thing on our mind...where were we going to watch the rugby! Well we struck the jack pot. The dear man who runs the hostal called in his son and actually found the chanel that the rugby was on. We couldn't believe our luck as no where on this Camino have we had a TV with the sports chanel that plays rugby. It's all football. We feel this stroke of luck is a good omen for our All Blacks. Our Welsh man Guy may join us and one lone Irish man may also ,but is not sure he could cope with watching with 4 kiwis.
    So here we sit with our olives, pastrami, and fresh bread watching Wales v Argentina, Lee has not long brought the laundry back and we have totally taken over the lounge of our hostel. Domestic bliss.
    Kia Kaha All Blacks and am sure it's going to be a great game!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    1
    11
    Day 40

    O'Cebreiro to Triacastela

    October 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today was a very different sort of day due to the weather!
    For the first time bar 1 afternoon at the beginning of the Camino we had rain!
    Not only did we have rain but we had tremendous wind. The trusty group of 4 just carried on regardless and it was actually so nice to not contend with the heat! According to Victor our horseman Spain has had the hottest Autumn in 60 years and don't we know it!
    The actual route today was very scenic with views over rolling hills and walking through numerous little villages, some very delapidated.
    We had breakfast before we left in the quaint village of O'Cebreiro which over the last 20 years has had a complete make over , with beautiful stone buildings including the church. We are certainly noticing a more " touristy " feel now and not so many waiters from the school of no charm.
    I thinks when we set off today we acknowledged a bit of rain falling but then had no idea how stormy the weather would be.
    Brian and I had bought ponchos from mountain warehouse before we left NZ being assured they would be fine. Maybe fine at a music concert but not in today's Galician wind! Brian's poncho was completely shredded.
    I thought at one stage I was going to take off in my Tilley hat and poncho like the flying nun!
    We loved stopping into cosy little cafes on the way and had coffees and delicious cream of vegetable soup. Lee is a definite soup fan and after loving the garlic soup now is loving the Galician soup..cabbage and potatoes . Have yet to try it.
    Our walk today took us through groves of huge oaks and chestnuts all turning colours. We walked through the back of cow sheds with cow pats all over the path and the smell of silage so it was certainly a very rural feel! A lot of the places have big alsatians tied up to ward the pilgrims off.
    Finally the wind died down and the rain stopped and had a great walk in to Triacastela passing a 100 year old chestnut tree.
    We are staying in a big hostel which also has dormitories so a bit of a reunion seeing some we hadn't seen for awhile including Guy the Welshman who greeted us with hugs . Tonight we will have a pilgrim meal for 13 euro.
    Only 5 more days of walking and then team of eights bubble will dissolve.
    The boys are already working out where we can watch the rugby tomorrow night and we have a sweepstake going. Funny enough all the Irish we met early on have disappeared and the Aussies are out, the Americans the Koreans and the Hungarians ( our latest friends) don't care so not much talk of the rugby. Maybe that's a good thing.
    Voting day tomorrow so hope the government of your choice gets in!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    12
    Day 39

    Villafranca to O'Cebreiro

    October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    So today we had a slightly different day and passed into Galicea which is an area in Spain that has quite a celtic history.
    We once again set off early in the dark with our headlights on. The walk was to be 29 km with a 9 km steep climb at the end but Jane had other ideas.
    So on we walked through pretty countryside with huge chestnut trees and quince trees , poplars all starting to drop their leaves plus all the chestnuts on the ground.
    Today we did a bit of road side walking which you have to be pretty careful navigating as the Spanish drivers drive fast,even through the little villages.
    Lots of cute villages today,some more prosperous then others and a bit of chat with fellow pilgrims including the English guy with the gnome! It turns out he is a rugby player who is a hooker. The gnomes name is Gnome Gallagher ( after the Oasis lead singer Liam) Anyway a few laughs and on we walked.
    After 21 km we stopped at a quaint village and met Victor who had 4 horses waiting for us. As I haven't been on a horse since the age of 14 I had a few reservations about this new experience but it was high ho silver an off we set! Jane the most experienced rider led the charge and the rest of us followed the leader! My horse Luna prooved to be a bit naughty. I think she was jut tired and it was her second climb up the track that day.
    We all clopped on in a very slow fashion and almost felt guilty as we passed fellow pilgrims slogging it up the quite steep hillside. Were we really worried, not a bit
    The ride went on for 2 1/2 hours and I must say was well ready to get off naughty Luna by the end but what an experience! Victor was quite a character and bought us drinks when we got to the top of redwine mixed with lemon fizz. It was surprisingly refreshing.
    As OCobreiro is totally booked out due to today being a Spanish holiday we are in a nearby very plain little town. Spain has continual holidays!
    In our quest to find a bar or restaurant open at 6 pm.we had to walk all around the town. Brian and Lee actually woke one bar owner up who staggered out with a barking dog and wearing a stained white singlet. He was not impressed.
    Finally we found a restaurant and have had a nice meal and now nack at hotel well ready for bed. 7 more days!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    Day 38

    Ponferrada to Villa Franca

    October 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I woke up this morning and thought what an absolute luxury it would be to have a cup of tea in bed but no such luck. None of the hotels we stay in have tea making facilities in the rooms.
    Anyway dusty shoes on and off we set. It is definitely colder in the mornings and Jane even had gloves on. We now have a new moon to look at and it doesn't get light until 8 am.
    After a few km we stopped for breakfast to the usual croissants and today's were particularly nice and warm and fresh from the bakery.
    It's always a bit of an ordeal getting out of the bigger places but Brian and Jane do an excellent job of navigating us out. Lee and I prefer to not interfere! Lee is our road marshall and reminds us to stay on left side of road. Sometimes Jane and I can be deep in conversation and forget!
    Today's walk was really scenic and we walked through valleys of grapes , with trees turning gold and apples and pears lying on the ground. We walked through quaint villages with the stone and wood houses, some in need of great repair! Brian met a wood carver selling his wares so he was happy.
    We stopped for a late morning tea and chatted with a young chap from Alberta and he has walked the entire Camino in crocs and sleeps out underneath the stars.
    After 24 km we walked into Villa Franca which is like a sleepy Queenstown surrounded by hills and has beautiful old stone buildings and churches. Their main industry here apart from tourism is harvesting chestnuts and cattle.
    Our hotel is great with a balcony overlooking the hills beyond.
    Only 8 more days of walking and less then 200km to go.
    The team of eight are holding up pretty well but a few sore muscles today after the long descent yesterday.
    Up into the Galicia hills tomorrow.    Read more

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