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  • Day 2

    Day 2, but really day 1, except..

    Yesterday in Portugal β‹… β˜€οΈ 23 Β°C

    Except tomorrow is really day 3 or day 1 - of walking!
    Yesterday was 12 hours of travel, from Hampshire to Porto, via Basingstoke, Clapham Junction and Gatwick Airport. It didn't help the usual travel anxiety (like, have I packed everything, forgotten anything, booked accommodation accurately) when the trains were on strike or having overtime bans. It also didn't help that I'd already left the house and was merrily on my way to the station when I realised I'd forgotten my bumbag (with passport, money, cards and phone!) so had to rush back to collect it πŸ™„πŸ˜‚. Then it didn't help that I couldn't remember if I'd locked the front door after myself! Dear me! (I had, happily confirmed by my neighbour πŸ˜„).
    Anyway, trains were running and I managed to get to Basingstoke, where I was meeting Julie, who was having her own problems with packed trains - she wasn't sure she'd be able to get on one at Winchester. But she did, and I joined her for a standing room only journey to Clapham Junction, where we took the Gatwick train and cracked open the Fizz and the Freddos. We know how to live!
    We lunched at Gatwick (a very nice healthy salad and a not so healthy glass of white each) and tipped our waiter generously as he'd called us beautiful and lovely πŸ˜€. Doesn't take much!
    Time flew, and, eventually, so did we. It was a good flight and our bags arrived shortly after we did, thank goodness!
    There followed a trip on the metro and a bus to our accommodation, 6km outside of Porto centre. It's just one room with a small shower room and a fish tank! Seems we're responsible for keeping loads of little neons or some such alive. We have to feed them tonight πŸ˜±πŸ˜‚. So after a late evening meal of a WHSmith pasta dish, it was time for bed.
    Portugal is on UK time so we woke up at our usual times and spent a leisurely couple of hours or so playing with our packs, taping our toes and/or feet, and eating yesterday's WHSmith dessert of yoghurt. A good start to the day.
    We left our room at 0900 and headed for the river, just a couple of hundred metres away. Keeping the Duoro to our right, we headed into Porto, and not even I could get lost! It's all flat and was a lovely walk - we're used to a mighty wind and rain in this area (last couple of caminos here) but it was wonderful. A bit of an uphill helped us make the decision to stop at a cafe for cake/coke/coffee (our second breakfast) and we headed off to the cathedral. Well, okay, if we'd have taken my route, we'd have got lost but, fortunately, I had Julie to turn me 180 degrees whereupon I found the cathedral!πŸ˜‚
    We had our credentials stamped with our first sello and wandered around the cathedral, inside and out and up a tower, took some photos, and decided to find lunch. We couldn't find a sandwich shop with actual sandwiches so the Spar it wasπŸ™„. But - we found delicious sandwiches there and lovely juicy tomatoes, so were very happy sitting at the waterfront munching away.
    A lovely bimble back along the waterfront, this time keeping the Duoro to our left (see, I know where I'm going πŸ˜‚) and we arrived at a very convenient small bar selling beer - our first camino beer, but not our last! Even Sid joined in.
    It just remains for us to find somewhere or something for supper and repack our backpacks ready for tomorrow, our first proper day of walking. We've already knocked 6km off, so it should just be 18km. It should... I'll let you know!
    (Other posts won't be 2 days long, don't worry!)
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  • Day 148

    Just missing the snow!

    April 15 in England β‹… 🌬 11 Β°C

    Farnham to Guildford (23km) through rain, hail and shine, but mostly wind πŸ˜‚
    What a fabulous (but very weather-changeable) day to complete our final solo day of the Pilgrim's Way (we'll walk the rest of the way in groups of 2 or 3 days). The journey began with a drive to Farnham through the most torrential, almost equatorial, rain! The windscreen wipers were on max and we wondered whether we'd actually get to walk anywhere! By the time we reached Farnham, however, it'd stopped and we were able to park and do some lunch shopping as the kitchen at the pub we'd planned to stop at was closed on Mondays πŸ™„.
    We'd missed the church in Farnham where we could get our passports stamped so wandered into the local council offices thinking they might have one (as well as an all important loo stop before we began walking). A very nice lady (who'd never heard of the Pilgrim's Way and was astounded that we were walking to Canterbury, but not in one go!) managed to locate a very nice man who told us, no, they didn't have a stamp, but they could frank our passports. So we ended up with probably the nicest stamp of all 😊! A quick loo visit and a drive to the railway station, and we were off on the start of our North Downs section of the way. I think it was something like 1100 before we finally began the day's bimble so lunchtime arrived pretty quickly, not at the pub we'd thought we'd stop at, but at the church lych-gate in Seale, a welcome shelter from the cold wind! Each of the churches we've stopped at has had a stamp for Pilgrim Passports so we have a lovely visual reminder of each section. By this time, we'd experienced torrential rain, drizzle and hailstones, as well as some very welcome sunshine, but the wind hardly ever left us. Often, though, we were fortunate to be walking between banks of trees that afforded us some shelter. For some of the way, we followed the path of the Hogs Back so (if you know this area) there were quite a few hills to climb, but it really was a fabulous day and we kept warm with all the effort we put in to walking!
    We finally stopped for a long drink and a packet of crisps (Pam, chorizo flavour, Julie sweet chilli) at the pub in Puttenham where we'd have liked to have eaten lunch (I'm not sure I'd have lasted that long though!) then it was the final 12kms into Guildford.
    Today's walk was very green, through woods and past farms and golf greens, benches dedicated to past walkers, and little hobbit-like doors 😊. We saw a few buildings and walked through a couple of villages, but it was mainly agricultural land with sheep and lots of horses and, as we got closer to Puttenham, hops country (see pic).
    We finally reached Guildford station gone 1700 but we couldn't find anywhere for a stamp. Next time - maybe Guildford Cathedral! It's a good job Julie knew the area πŸ˜‚ and the route along part of the River Wey, which led us past a gorgeous little stone bridge and a delightful bronze of Alice in Wonderland and straight into M&S for some well-deserved chocolate and alcohol 🍸 for the train journey. The train back to Farnham meant we got back to the car at about 1800 and I finally got home at 1930. Hence our next few sections will be walked over 2 or 3 days - we'll have a little holiday each time 😊😊😊 and won't have to take the train each day! And, hopefully, the sun will be shining ✨️ πŸ™ 😎
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  • Day 120

    Chawton to Farnham

    March 18 in England β‹… ☁️ 13 Β°C

    At last! Day 3 of our Pilgrims Way, Chawton to Farnham, which saw us walking 23km, lots of it through mud, making the going rather tough at times!
    We started the day in rain, the stuff that gets you wet, but once it stopped we were able to pack our wet gear away and trudge onwards and (sometimes) upwards. It was definitely a good workout for the legs, and carrying around the extra weight on our walking boots meant we got an even better workout πŸ˜‚.
    Beginning in Chawton, we visited the church for our Pilgrim stamp. As we walked to the church we noticed a lady cold water swimming in the local stream - there'd been so much rain it had swollen and become deep enough for a good swim! Rather her than us πŸ˜²πŸ˜‚!
    We headed off to Jane Austin's house and onwards to Alton. The properties in the village were all very 'Jane Austinesque' and it was easy to imagine her wandering around, just like Emma Thompson in Sense and Sensibility. In Alton, we loved the blue plaque informing us that she definitely hadn't lived in that house πŸ˜‚ - very amusing.
    We gathered a few stamps today as we walked (and trudged) through the towns and villages - Chawton, Alton, Holybourne (very posh and where Alan Titchmarsh lives), Froyle, Bentley and finally Farnham. At one of the churches we found some very interesting brick gravestones.
    A very welcome lunch was enjoyed in Lower Froyle before heading off to Farnham. My idea of avoiding yet more muddy fields by walking along the road was dismissed as I hadn't realised 'the road' was the A31πŸ™„πŸ˜‚. So more mud it was, but the sun shone occasionally, and many of the fantastic yew trees in Bentley churchyard were over 350 years old and absolutely beautiful.
    When we reached Farnham we'd missed the bus back to Alton and it was about a 40 minute wait for the next one, plus another bus back to the car in Chawton 😳 so a quick taxi ride it was! The driver took one look at our boots... but we were prepared with large plastic bags and were able to keep his taxi cleanπŸ˜€ for which he was extremely grateful.
    It was a lovely day for a walk despite the mud. Good company, good food and a good workout!
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  • Day 57

    Alresford to Almost Alton!

    January 15 in England β‹… β˜€οΈ 2 Β°C

    At last πŸ€—. Day 2 of our Pilgrims' Way, walking from Winchester to Canterbury, with today's intended hike being from Alresford to Alton.
    Despite the really low temperature (soooo cold, it was a thermal vest, hat and gloves day!), it was a fantastic day to enjoy a long walk. The sun shone on us and the scenery was just beautiful and, as we neared Chawton, it was most definitely Jane Austin country!
    The route took us through some beautiful villages and farmland, but thank goodness Julie had our route on her phone, the description in the Cicerone book was pretty poor πŸ˜‚ so, fortunately, we were still able to find our way with ease.
    We lunched at the church in Ropley which, according to the guide, was a shell due to a devastating fire in 2014. However, it had been rebuilt and reopened in 2022 and is an amazing mix of ancient and modern architecture. It's just gorgeous! We sat outside in the sun to eat rather than inside, but it was a very quick lunch break because of the cold πŸ˜‚, our hands were frozen! A quick visit to the very modern loos saw us on our way in no time at all.
    A walk past Charlie Chaplin (what a shock that wasπŸ˜‚), through fields and over bridges, took us to Four Marks and past the garden centre where, next time, we'll stop for cake πŸŽ‚. But we were on a mission to walk in daylight and there was no time.
    There followed a rather muddy trudge along paths and through a wooded area which led us to Emily and Nelson πŸ€— who had joined us from Chawton, and from there Nelson led us all the way back to Chawton - he really did know the way!
    We sat for a well-earned break at Jane Austin's house and enjoyed Christmas cake (thank you Julie and Mary Berry!) and a drink πŸ‘ before the final 3km bimble to Alton. Well, our intention was to walk on to Alton, but the offer of a lift back to the car in Alresford was too good to refuse. So that's what we did!
    We'd walked about 20km and will start our next leg (to Farnham) in Chawton so we don't cheat. Hopefully, it won't be too long before we're out and about again!
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  • Day 1

    Winchester to Alresford

    November 20, 2023 in England β‹… ☁️ 12 Β°C

    The beginning of a long, long journey - The Pilgrims' Way followed by the Via Francigena (God willing!) 😊. Having walked a few caminos in Spain and Portugal, we thought it was time for a change. And so begins a journey of about 2000 kilometres (1242.742 miles to be exact) that's likely to take us to 2035 or so if we're lucky enough to live that long!
    Every journey starts with a single step, so they say, and ours started at the shrine of St Swithun in Winchester Cathedral. It'll eventually, over 9 sections, take us 141 miles to the tomb of St Thomas Becket in Canterbury. Then the rest of the journey will take us to Rome. That's the plan, anyway!πŸ˜‚
    And so the adventure began...
    Monday started with rain, but by the time Julie and I stepped out of Winchester Cathedral it had stopped, and we even had some sunshine! Over the past few years we've walked the vast majority of today's route from Winchester to Alresford many times so it was very familiar. From Alresford onwards, it's not so.
    It was fabulous to be back on pilgrimage and have a final destination, however long it may take us to reach both Canterbury (2024) and Rome (who knows?). On today's bimble we passed a few churches where we were able to stamp our Pilgrims' Passports (I thought one stamp was rubbish until Julie pointed out I hadn't opened the ink padπŸ™„πŸ€”πŸ˜„), meandered with the River Itchen, climbed a few very gentle slopes and had to skim a rather large bull who was standing right on our path and refused to move, but the countryside was delightful and it was a perfect walking day, albeit a tad damp underfoot.
    We were met in Itchen Abbas by Emily and Nelson, and stopped for lunch at Ovington - we'd bought lunch in Winchester (days are short and we weren't sure how long a pub lunch would take!) and it was good fun to sit in a field and dodge Nelson as he desperately tried to eat our sandwiches, despite having his own snacksπŸ˜„.
    Just another 6km or so took us into Alresford and, having parked one car in Alresford and one in Winchester, we were mobile. We didn't have to rely on public transport this time round, but that'll be impossible as we walk on, which promises to be fun!
    Day 2, Alresford to Alton, soon!πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘
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  • Day 14

    The end πŸ˜•

    August 22, 2023 in Spain β‹… β›… 30 Β°C

    After enjoying a day in Bilbao I had fully intended to take an early-ish bus to San Sebastian then the train to Irun, where I'd either walk the few kms to Hondarribia or take the bus, depending on the weather, my mood and my feet! "Have you bought your ticket?" asked sensible Mick the night before... Of course I hadn't! I was a solo traveller and there was bound to be one seat on one of the many buses to SS! Well, Mick was right, of course πŸ™„πŸ˜‚. All of the buses were booked (and I was at the station by 9.30am) and the first I could take was at 2.45pm that afternoon. So it was another half day in Bilbao - no problem at all, except I was carrying my backpack - and a rethink about how to get to Hondarribia. I wandered down to the Guggenheim and enjoyed a late breakfast of a chocolate donut (my Camino staple) and a coke zero, and just enjoyed reading my book and people watching. Then it was back to the bus station with plenty of time for a small lunch. Somehow, though, πŸ€”πŸ™„πŸ˜œ I managed to get thoroughly lost and found myself wandering through housing estates and commercial centres! Thank goodness I'd left myself lots of time to get to the station, because I needed it πŸ˜‚. Anyway, I still managed to eat lunch and get there in time for my bus, which was then 45 minutes late 😱. Doesn't do you any good when you don't understand the language too well πŸ˜‚. By this time, I'd decided I'd be a little profligate and find myself a taxi at SS for the 18km journey to Hondarribia. The fare was a tad eye popping but well worth it πŸ˜‰. I'd treated myself to a bit of a posh hotel, a 12th century former tower/palace/whatever, that does a very good breakfast, which Mick and I had stayed in years ago. The room was ace but I was hoping the church bells gave up at 10.00pm so i could sleepπŸ˜‚. After lots of salad for dinner, I enjoyed an excellent night's sleep with no bellsπŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘.
    Next morning I breakfasted very well indeed, and dumped my backpack at reception so I could enjoy Hondarribia. It's an interesting town - ancient and modern all in one - metres thick stone walls and modern apartment blocks. And it's an approved route on the Camino del Norte, although Julie and I took a different direction last year. There's even a beach, although it's tiny, and I found out I could get a boat from here right to Hendaye, where I was catching the bus to Biarritz airport, ready for my flight. I didn't take the boat, though, as Mick told me it's a circuitous route to the station and the last thing I needed to do was get lost (again!)πŸ˜…. So, it was the bus to Irun and a walk to Hendaye, where I bought Amy (great neice) a flamenco dress and Finn (great nephew) a Basque beret πŸ˜…. The 35 minute bus trip to Biarritz airport took an hour and a half πŸ™„ and cost less than €1.50! I think the driver might have misunderstood my French accent πŸ˜†. Apart from my journey home, this really was the end of my Spanish adventure πŸ˜•. I've loved (just about) every minute of it - but I'm not doing it again! Next year, I think I'm going back to the cruise-type holiday (as long as there's a climbing wall on board😜)
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  • Day 11

    Bilbao πŸ₯°

    August 19, 2023 in Spain β‹… β˜€οΈ 32 Β°C

    I'm spending a couple of nights in Bilbao before heading back towards Biarritz for a Wednesday flight. Fortunately, a few of the other girls from the Picos holiday were overnighting in Bilbao yesterday, so we were able to meet up for a beer and a meal.
    There's a festival here at the mo, so down by the river it's a madness of stalls (beer, mojitos, burgers...) and a few large music stages, which were unbelievably loud! I wonder if I'm just getting old?πŸ˜†
    We managed to find a quiet bar for a beer and a nice restaurant for food. Restaurants don't open until 8.00pm, though, and I like to be in bed by 10.00pm πŸ˜‚ so I wasn't sure I'd make it πŸ™„πŸ˜…. But I wasn't alone as the others had flights to catch today, so I just managed to hit the pillow in time for a very good sleep πŸ₯±πŸ’€πŸ˜….
    Today, I bimbled down to the Guggenheim and was very pleased to gain entry as a 'pensionista'! I'm pleased, because the art wasn't much to my taste, so I didn't spend too long in there (and anyway, my feet were killing me!) I did appreciate some of the art, though, and it's such a fantastic building. The large 'muriel' is made of bottle tops - I've included the explanation - I can really appreciate this type of art!
    It being Sunday means most shops and restaurants are closed around the hotel so, unless I want to walk back to the Guggenheim and wait until 8.00pm, I'm going to be eating in my room. It's been stodge all day πŸ˜– but as I've already walked 14km, I'll let myself offπŸ™„πŸ˜….
    Hondarribia tomorrow πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘
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  • Day 10

    Almost a Camino day!πŸ™„

    August 18, 2023 in Spain β‹… ☁️ 20 Β°C

    Yes, almost a Camino day!
    Today, we had a new tour guide, David, Juan's 5 year old grandson. He was very cute and led the way for the first half of the day's walking. He scooted around with boundless energy, spoke Spanish, and all of the teachers in the group (I think 7 of us) oohed and aahed and smiled benevolently πŸ™„πŸ˜‚. Poor child!
    Our walk was a short 14km today, with 550m of descent and only 150m of ascent, but I'm sure you'll have guessed the sting in the tail...πŸ˜†πŸ˜«πŸ˜–
    The day started out fantastically well, though, with a 2.5 hour wander through beech forest and a jungle of fern, which was head height and quite imposing. There was a tiny bit of uphill walking (no climbing, thank goodness), and a lot of gentle downhill walking. All in all, it really was very camino-ish and a massive change to what we'd experienced over the previous 5 days.
    The scenery was magnificent, and we were able to pinpoint where we'd already walked between the eastern, central and western massifs. I think it's photo 7 that shows parts of all 3 of them.
    At one point, we walked along a concrete path, which was hard underfoot. We were given the option of continuing on this road into the village of Tielve, or taking the older, original path. We all chose the path, which was pretty tough but short and, before we knew it, we were sitting on the terrace of the local bar enjoying our packed lunch of tuna salad and Kitkat, a coke, and some delicious local Cantabrian blue cheese. This one had been matured for 4 months in one of the local cheese caves and was really strong and smelly πŸ˜‹πŸ˜‹πŸ˜‹.
    After lunch, our new tour guide was picked up by his grandma and we were all given the opportunity to return to the hotel with them. Tempting though it was, we were all keen to finish our week's walking on a high (did I mention that sting?πŸ™„)
    The last hour and a half was the old path between Tielve and Sotres before the road was built and, you guessed it, was the 150m ascentπŸ˜–. The path was rocky and narrow, as well as pretty steep. I was always grateful when there were walkers coming towards us so that I could do the polite thing and stopπŸ˜….
    In photo 8, you can see a cave. This was the last of Juan's stories 😊 - his wife's aunt was born in this cave during the Spanish Civil War - there's an entrance to the back of the cave. Franco supporters in the area reckoned the farmers were all communists and tried to get rid of them all. They fled to the hills, quite literally, and lived off the land. Apparently, the baby was born then smuggled back to Sotres, where the family still live, and fostered by a 'safe' family for 2 years. Living in the hills was particularly difficult as they couldn't even risk lighting a fire for fear of being found.
    Juan's a really interesting bloke, with lots of amazing local knowledge and experiences.
    We finally arrived, thankfully, at a viewpoint at the top of the village where we were able to stop for a quick break before a short and very slow walk back to the hotel.
    Dinner tonight was a selection of tapas, followed by goat and chips, then something extremely creamy and yummy.πŸ˜‹πŸ˜‹πŸ˜‹
    I still managed to get to bed by 10.00pm, though, I was already packed and ready for the off tomorrow.
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  • Day 9

    The Cares Gorge - make like a goat!

    August 17, 2023 in Spain β‹… β›… 21 Β°C

    Phew! I thought we'd done all the hard stuff! There hasn't really been a day when I haven't been physically challenged, although yesterday was the least challenging. But today!!!
    It was described as a 24km walk with 300 metres of ascent and descent. What they forgot to say was that that ascent and descent happens pretty much at the beginning (and so the end) of the walk!
    A 30 minute minibus journey took us to Poncebos, where we started the ascent. Problem was, so did the world and its dogπŸ™„ - quite literally, poor dogs! So the near enough 300 metres of ascent took about 50 continuous minutes. You couldn't stop because the path was pretty narrow and to stop would've caused a traffic jam, and the ground was made up of rocks - both fixed and moveable! I'm pretty pleased that I was able to do this - it was heart-pounding stuff (at my peak my heart was beating at 144bpm) - so it was a welcome change to walk on some flat ground!
    The path was only about 1 metre wide - sometimes wider, sometimes narrower - and 12 kms long in all, between Poncebos and Cain. The drop to the side was steep and precipitous and, don't forget, this was 2 way trafficπŸ€ͺπŸ™„πŸ˜‚.
    There were quite a few mountain goats bimbling around, and they liked to lick the salt from your legsπŸ˜†.
    So, 12km in and we reached Cain, where we stopped for lunch. But... an hour later, we were on our way back!
    There were some ups and downs, but nothing compared to the approx 300m descent back into Poncebos. That was pure hell πŸ˜«πŸ˜–πŸ˜‚. There were places where I couldn't even find steps for my feet (obviously I did, cos I'm here) but it just seemed to go on forever.
    But, 6 hours walking today and a good 24kms, and here I am, in bed, looking forward to a good night's exhausted sleep!
    It was a truly spectacular day, but this old nanny goat has had enoughπŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚
    The first photo is of our group, and a vid of a flying Griffin vulture!
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  • Day 8

    Wow!

    August 16, 2023 in Spain β‹… ☁️ 18 Β°C

    Today was a very relaxing day, apart from the last uphill slog which, according to Juan, is always '15 minutes' with no indication of gradient πŸ™„πŸ˜†.
    We began with a 2 hour journey to Potes. The original plan was to stay overnight in Potes after yesterday's hell of a descent from Treviso, but as it's August and holiday season, no hotel will accept a one night stay. So we travelled from Sotres to Potes and it was great! The scenery is just stunning, and there are very few towns or villages to pass through, so it's pretty much the Cares Gorge all the way. Sheer rock faces and meandering rivers. We're walking the gorge tomorrow, so you'll hear more of that!
    On arriving in Potes we made our way to the Monastery of St Toribio of Liebana, dating from the 18th century. This is a very special place for Christians because there's a relic of the cross of Jesus Christ contained within the golden cross you can see. And this is a bit of the same cross that was presented to King Charles III at his coronation (think I've got that right!). It was a very special place for me, too, cos I found a camino waymarker! This is an official 3 day detour on the Camino del Norte that Julie and I started last year. I even got myself a pilgrim's stamp from the pilgrim office - as daft as this may sound, this was a really special place for me, even though we were only there for a whistle-stop tour! πŸ₯° The best bit, though, was the fact that as soon as I'd stepped foit in the monastery doorway, my sins were forgiven. Some of my walking buddies suggested I might try bouncing back and forth over the threshold.πŸ™„πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚
    After the monastery we drove on to Fuentes, where a cable car was waiting for us! This was a 4 minute journey up into the clouds and beyond, to the top of ... another mountain! But the views on emerging from the cloud layer were just glorious! The sun was shining, and it was simply amazing!
    Our day's walk started here - we were to walk the 18km back to Sotres, stopping for lunch on our way down. Thankfully, it was a very gentle slope for the most part, and we were all able to move back and forth between each other, getting to know each other better and usually having a good laugh!
    Juan tells us some great stories - today's was that his wife's great (great?) grandfather was a shepherd in the mountains here and was asked by a hunter to guide him back to the lodge up there when they were lost in the snow. Seems this hunter was the Spanish king at the time and became a lifelong friend of Sonya's great (great?) grandfather! That's the lodge with the red roof. It was a gift from the British King (? maybe?) and was transported from the UK to Spain. Inside is (apparently) as it was over 100 years ago. To be honest, Juan could tell us anything and we'd believe him πŸ™„πŸ€ͺπŸ˜†.
    The cross and memorial were to a Sotres man who died in a horrendous winter in the 1940s - there was no food in Sotres so he set out to find some, dying as a result. It would certainly be a vicious winter in these parts!
    The '15" minutes uphill was probably more like 20, but it brought us to our lovely hotel where we showered, ordered a glass of wine and ate a first class meal.
    It only leaves me to say good night πŸ₯±πŸ˜΄πŸ₯±πŸ˜΄πŸ₯±πŸ˜΄
    I've added a photo from yesterday. If you zoom in you can definitely see a Griffin vulture!!!
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