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One More Camino in Spain 2023One More Camino in Spain 2023
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A 73-day adventure by Rosie Read more
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  • TravelerOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    3
    1112
    Day 11

    An excursion to St Jean de Luz

    April 7, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The weather is holding up beautifully and today we got the train (3 stops) to St Jean de Luz. Such as lovely place, as we discovered 18 months ago - a long line of beach with cliffs, a fishing port section, lovely Basque style houses…very much a summer resort.

    We walked the length of the beach, and up to the high point on one end from where you can look back and see the line of Pyrenees mountains coming right to the coast. We sat and had a light lunch (as we have a dinner reservation tonight at 8pm in a rather special restaurant we discovered last visit). We had intended to go back to the market where we had seen a man making paella - it looked and smelled wonderful, and he was in the process of adding a sack of mussels and then chorizo…but when we came back it was all gone!! Oh well, John had spotted a nice little place to eat and we were content. So we had a beautiful day of wandering the streets and coast. Sat and had a kindle time in a square before coming back about 5 o’clock. It actually got too hot sitting in the sun!! We knew that was the prediction and had layers to remove…it had been quite cold in the early morning.

    Now downtime before dinner…..back from dinner…a real experience of fine dining! We had stumbled on this restaurant last time, and managed to get a booking for tonight, in the annex…the main part is very small, and so they have a room 2 doors up the street for about 30 more people. They run dishes to and fro on trays…lovely waiters, so busy running all night. Won’t describe each course, but you will see from the photos how special it was, and the tastes amazing. Off to sleep…    Read more

  • TravelerOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    1
    11
    Day 12

    Easter Saturday in Biarritz

    April 8, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    OMG just realised I haven’t written up the day, and it’s 10.40 and I’m showered and ready for bed…and there’s so much to say, but will try and make it concise!! First, I must elaborate about the wonderful dinner last night, rather than just the photos…it was at La Table de Sébastien Gravé, and a very special night. And for €49 a head it was pretty amazing, compared to our prices for the equivalent meal.

    Anyway, today we got the bus to Biarritz. Another beautiful day, and found it is as enchanting as ever. It is ritzy, but not formal and posh…in the front there is La Grande Plage (where today there was a surf carnival, sounded just like Manly with the loud speakers etc) then there are promenades each way, which lead to many other coves and beaches, and amazing rock formations. So beautiful…Carole and John were blown away I think, and tomorrow we all plan to return there for another day of relaxation.. Biarritz is between Bayonne and st Jean de Luz….bigger and it is where the airport is. So we had a light lunch in the little fishing village area, walked to the lighthouse, and eventually went to get the bus back at about 5 o’clock…

    Well that was the start of the craziness…we knew the jamon festival in Bayonne was a big thing, plus it’s Easter Saturday and a holiday, but we got the bus at the beginning of the journey back, and with the crowds waiting it was full to start…I managed to get a seat, but the others stood the whole way, as at each stop more people packed on…all about 20+ and obviously heading to Bayonne to rage! It was quite funny, and happy…like a party bus…and when we got back, Bayonne was crazy…crowds that you could hardly walk through…

    We wanted to find somewhere for dinner, but had doubts of the possibility…but happily found a creperie that had tables not yet full, and that was a good dinner..galettes with Basque jambon, cheese etc. (very like 4 Frogs!)…getting back to the hotel was a feat…Amr and I stayed out and tried to find somewhere to eat tomorrow night, but places were either closed or not taking bookings…so we’ll see…maybe a late lunch in Biarritz! And another funny thing, at the creperie, when Amr and I were waiting in line for the one toilet, we got talking to the couple in front of us and he was amazed we were Aussies and said he lived in Australia 10 years ago, and in Manly!! He couldn’t believe we lived in Manly, and thus developed a great friendship!!

    Off to sleep, but will put some photos of the beauty of Biarritz.    Read more

  • TravelerOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    3
    Day 13

    Easter Sunday, another trip to Biarritz

    April 9, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Our last day in Bayonne - and we decided to go again to Biarritz…it is so easy on the bus (even if chaotic on the return journey!) and the lovely weather holds. So first we went to the aquarium which we had seen yesterday and planned to return to…Carole and John were very impressed and happy there, and we didn’t last as long as they did, but it was a good display, and we agreed to meet at the same fish restaurant as yesterday at 2pm, for a late lunch. We went by there earlier, and our waiter recognised us and said if we came at 2 it would be fine (the sign said finish lunch at 2, but we did see them seating people after that, a flexi schedule).

    So we met at 2 and had a lovely Easter feast. Not quite as frenetic as yesterday but all quite busy, and the bus coming back to Bayonne was as crowded as ever. After lunch we all went our separate ways. C and J went back to see the Basque Museum in Bayonne, and we wandered along the waterfront one last time, had a coffee and after more wandering had a drink at a very swish bar (the array of bottles was impressive).

    Now back, and getting ready to get the little train up to St Jean Pied de Port tomorrow morning. About to meet C and J for a drink, and maybe a very small snack (I am still full from lunch)…

    Back from our small eating…I just ordered cheese as couldn’t face an actual plate, even salad! Maybe it was because I ate all the mash they served with the fish! It was delicious, with a touch of nutmeg…tonight it was a plate of lots of cheese to share, so we have smuggled a supply out in a napkin to have tomorrow…but some cheese, bread and a glass of red was all I needed now…and an Easter egg from the hotel reception! Perfect. Walking back we noticed that the clouds are gathering…I think our perfect weather may be ending…can’t complain though, it has been so good.    Read more

  • TravelerOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    13
    Day 14

    St Jean-Pied-de-Port

    April 10, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We have arrived at St Jean PDP, day 1 of our Camino schedule! Checked into the very nice hotel where we stayed last time after the Vézelay walk, and into the exact same room, looking out over the river…sooo good. The only downside is that on Wednesday when we start walking the weather changes, and it will rain and maybe even snow for the next 3 days!! The first 2 days are only about 12 kms thank goodness, so we will try our ponchos and cope. We have walked in rain before, and it may be showers by the sound of it, and at least we are warned and prepared. (And we could even get taxi if it got too ghastly!).

    But today has been delightful. We arrived at about 12.30, couldn’t check in till 2pm, and enjoyed walking round the familiar streets of this charming town. Walked around the walls, found the amazing spice shop..all looks quite different in spring…leaves just starting, and the severely pruned plane trees look gaunt till their leaves all come out. There is also a lot of wisteria looking very beautiful.

    Warm and sunny for the moment, and Amr went to a laundromat, quite a walk away as the 2 previous laundromats seem to have closed…so he gallantly took lots of clothes, and C and J’s, and we can now start afresh on our ventures. They were still damp, but a few hours on our sunny balcony and they are all dry…

    Now back from dinner…last dinner with C and J…they leave on the train back to Bayonne tomorrow, and head off for their cycling trip, and we start walking on Wednesday. For dinner Amr and I had a salad with grilled chiperones, very delicious, and shared our first taste of arroz con leche…yum. Tomorrow is going to continue with cloudy but fine weather, so we can have a good relaxing day.    Read more

  • TravelerOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    Day 15

    Last day before we walk

    April 11, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    A lovely leisurely day. Actually, we did do a bit of walking to keep our legs going, but very relaxed. First we walked with C and J along the wall, and up the path to the Citadelle above the town where hadn’t been before…magnificent view from up there, then made our way back to the hotel as C and J catching the 12.20 train. We escorted them to the station, via a coffee and hot chocolate stop, and waved them off after a fun week together!

    So Amr and I first decided to check the route we need to take tomorrow morning. We always feel secure if we sort of sus out the way, and it was a good practice walk. (We can’t remember from 10 years ago of course)…then we sauntered along a path beside the river, which also I don’t think we have ever done…so so pretty, with the leaves just hinting green, and the Basque houses.

    We have bumped into many people who are setting off tomorrow, like us on a schedule, so we are all hoping the weather will not be too bad. Some Australians, Americans, Dutch…it’s a good camino feeling here and we are very excited. On the way back from the first walk we met 2 volunteers who paint the red and white markers for the GR routes. They struck up a conversation with us and gave good advice about how to avoid the road, even though we are taking the route via Valcarlos. He said his son was working in Sydney when covid struck, and he had trouble getting out of course when his job ended…is son said “now I know what it is like to live under communism”!! You can be sure we agreed with the sentiments!!

    So we are sorting out our bags - what to take with us and what to send, what to wear…we bought a half baguette with ham and cheese for tomorrow’s lunch - it will keep fine overnight in the cool on our balcony…as the shop won’t open till after we leave, as we will go fairly early to get some distance before the rain is predicted to start at about 11…who knows..very very excited!    Read more

  • TravelerOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    1
    Day 16

    Now in Spain! First day completed

    April 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    What a luxury! It is 2pm and we have finished our walk (only 12 kms) and are settled in our very charming accommodation in Valcarlos (Luzaide in Basque), had our lunch, and a coffee/hot chocolate (which is now my favourite ColaCao!) and we can relax for the afternoon writing the blog, sharing photos, reading till dinner…perfect, as it has now started to rain lightly and is rather miserable outside.

    But we had an absolutely beautiful walk. I hardly remember it from 10 years ago, but it was picture postcard countryside, some reasonably long ups and downs but just fine, and a perfect temperature for walking - I think it was about 10° when we left, and mostly cloudy even with small patches of blue…the rain didn’t start till after our arrival here in Valcarlos.

    We weren’t at all sure that we would be able to check in so early (about 12) but the friendly lady was happy, but we had terrible problems communicating as she had no English, and our Spanish was not up to understanding hers! Then we discovered we could all communicate in French and all was well (she speaks Spanish, French and Basque) . We have dinner at the one eatery of the village (adjoining the supermarket!) where they have a dinner, including wine and bread, for €17. It is obviously THE meeting place for the town, as when we had a coffee there, it was packed with people sitting down having lunch (on a Wednesday)…quite chaotic! And we have vouchers for breakfast there…so all sorted. At the moment we are sitting in a very comfy sitting room adjoining our room and another room. This is a separate annex to the main building and beautifully fitted out…so far no one else here. Our bags were waiting for us, so the system works.

    Tomorrow we have another 12 kms to Roncesvalles, but quite a long altitude gain, and it will be raining and could be a little snowy higher up, but not impossible, and from there is it downhill on the other side to Zubiri and Pamplona!    Read more

  • TravelerOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    2
    222
    Day 17

    Pyrenees conquered, downhill from now!

    April 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    We have made it to Roncesvalles - even though we didn’t go the hard way over the top, we had a day with a lot of climbing and feel proud of ourselves. It was cold, but not freezing - I actually took off a layer before the final climb - and there was snow around, on the top of the mountains and around our path but nothing that impeded the walking…in fact for me it is rather magic to be amongst snow! It rained a little, but never pouring, just drops in the air, and sometimes it was snow showers - droplets of flakes!

    We are now in the very lovely hotel here that we remember from last time 10 years ago…it looks like a wing of the monastery and similar to the albergue, except with all the refinements of a hotel! It is warm and I have no intention of stepping outside till we leave tomorrow morning! We were expected, our bags were waiting, we are booked in for dinner and all is very good.

    Set off at about 9, or exactly as we heard the church bells bong the hour. We wore ponchos all day and I am very happy with my new voluminous blue one - it fits well over the backpack and didn’t let any drips in! Also very happy with my new sticks…We walked only about 14 kms, but it was strenuous and even Amr feels quite worn out! I had to plod on the LONG uphill but once finished I was very happy going downhill to Roncesvalles, and now don’t feel at all worn out, just happy that we are here!! It was such a different walk from 10 years ago. Then the trees were in full leaf and it was just like walking through a forest. Today the trees were bare enough that we were aware of the enormous rocks and mountains surrounding us, and the valleys…such a different scene, and magnificent scenery.

    Now the bar where we are having a wine (it was empty when we came) has filled with walkers all swapping stories of today…this is such fun. Some people walked all the way over the top, some walked our route, some were warned it was too snowy and difficult over the top and got a taxi!! Everyone is happy…mainly Americans, Aussies and Canadians right now…but many more…all good.

    Dinner was good…though it took ages as they were also serving a room full of pilgrims from the albergue and I think we got forgotten…but food yummy…Amr had the bean soup and I had a mixed salad to start (mixed means lettuce, tomato, tuna, egg, asparagus ) and Amr had grilled bass for main and I had a deer stew…so delicious…comfort food! Off to sleep now…    Read more

  • TravelerOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    Day 18

    Day 3 successful..22 kms and all’s well!

    April 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We are now in Zubiri, a small town you won’t find on a Google map, but we are in a delightful accommodation - a 1700s building, with wonderful wooden beams, and a charming hostess who greeted us.

    Set off from Roncesvalles quite early, Amr says before 9. It was rainy, as predicted, and we wore ponchos all day, even though it did stop occasionally, and even a ray of sunshine…but the rain has never been drenching - just sprinkling, but enough to get quite wet. Ponchos great, and body remains dry and warm! So today we descended down over the other side of the mountains. It was a gorgeous walk to start…a smooth easy path, through lovely countryside…we stopped for coffee/ColaCao and bought supplies to eat when we needed sustenance. It. Continued like this, undulating and just beautiful even though it drizzled on and off, and we were more than half way along and feeling that all was wonderful.

    Then, we came to the last 6 kms…this was the descent into Zubiri which is in the floor of the valley. (10 years ago we walked this, and arrived at Zubiri at 2pm, and I don’t remember it being difficult)…anyway, as we started the descent the path became quite hazardous - downhill with loose uneven stones, with ridges of the slate that is the solid base, mud, rivulets of water from all the rain and basically all the filling eroded…it took so long, watching every step and concentrating on not slipping or falling!! You’ve no idea how long walking a kilometre takes doing this!! Thank goodness for sticks. I think it was the rain over the last few days, plus that this is the end of winter and the melting snow etc…but the path wasn’t really a path. BUT we all survived, and were so SO happy to reach this town and walk on a footpath!

    And our accommodation is perfect. Lovely Maria welcomed us, our bags were here. There is a jacuzzi which Amr had (I didn’t have swimmers - one of the things eliminated when packing for carryon) and our room is absolutely charming. We arrived with 2 Aussies we have talked to on and off who are also staying here, and ended up having drinks and dinner with them. Very fun and comfortable. They are staying at the same hotel at Pamplona (tomorrow) but leave the next day, and we have a rest day there on Sunday, so we will prob get out of sync…

    So that is our day..the first real day of 20 kms + and I feel proud that while my bones were aching during the long descent, I feel less stiff now than the others…!! But photos will show the stunning scenery…and tomorrow it is predicted to rain in the morning, then clear up and Sunday sunny! Yay! Saving all the muddy clothes till we have walked tomorrow and Amr will find a laundromat in Pamplona!!    Read more

  • TravelerOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    1
    Day 19

    In Pamploma, another muddy day!

    April 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We are in Pamplona, a walk of 22 kms, but it was quite an effort. Today it wasn’t the slithery downhill, but the constant mud after 4 days of wetness…you just have to be so careful and slow. Yesterday we didn’t get to Zubiri till about 4.30-5, and today we arrived in Pamplona at about 3.30 having started at 8.30….long days, and we are both quite weary and happy to have a non walking day tomorrow.

    We are having fun, but I hope the promised sunny weather starts tomorrow…it was supposed to clear up this afternoon, but it was still drizzling when we came back from eating just now. Anyway, the day started well and fairly easily, track ok and quite easy…but soon the narrow muddy paths became prevalent. We stopped for a break at about 11 and had a Spanish tortilla (sort of frittata, not Mexican tortilla) . At a chapel along the way a man was telling us of a better route into Pamplona where you deviated from the Camino and on to a wide concrete path along the river instead of going up the hills along yet another muddy path…sounded good, and we looked out for where to find it…Amr was a little nervous of going off the True Path and getting lost, but I was adamant that we should try, and we found it and were so happy! But sadly I think we left it a bit early - there was a camino looking sign that pointed to Santiago and we took that and found ourselves in some outer suburbs and boring industrial area…we persisted and finally Amr turned on Google maps to direct us…we knew there must be another 5 kms or so to go and there was. Funnily we ran into an English couple we had chatted to earlier and they had taken the conventional path and we found it had joined up with us. They said they had seen us from the high muddy path and were jealous and wondered how we got there!! Walked with them till they went into a shop for provisions, and Google took us another way, direct to the hotel, and we entered Pamplona a completely non camino way…we got to the walls - so high and daunting for our weary legs, and saw there was a glass lift to the top!! So we took that and found ourselves quite close to the bull ring which is not far at all from the hotel..so all was well and we have settled into this very comfy room, Amr took all our clothes to the laundromat, we have cleaned off the worst of the mud on our boots discreetly in the bath tub, but they still look dirty!

    Then we ventured out, had a wine and pintxos, and more and a huge salad at another place where we have been before - everyone out on a Saturday night but I think we are hitting the sack. Not a lot of photos today, too busy watching our step, but the countryside is still so lovely, and we are seeing our crops of wheat about 6 inches tall and lovely green fields…just what we hoped to see on a spring camino!    Read more

  • TravelerOne More Camino in Spain 2023
    1131
    Day 20

    Sunday in Pamploma

    April 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Got up leisurely today, had breakfast at about 9 in our very perfect Hotel Europa. In the evening the dining room is a Michelin star restaurant. Then we went out wandering rather than walking! Found the Camino, and where to walk out tomorrow - always a bit tricky exiting at city, then walked to the cathedral, tried to find where we should have walked in yesterday, and generally enjoyed the ambience and the good weather.

    It finally is fine, with a few clouds, but there is a breeze which feels it is coming from the snow on the mountain tops. It was about 7° and we needed all our layers. We hadn’t counted on quite so much cold, (though not complaining!) and need to wear all we have! I think I am the only person in Pamplona wearing sandals with socks - the only alternative to my walking shoes which are drying from being washed…(though still look filthy!). And my feet are so comfy…We had a coffee and ColaCao at the Hemingway cafe in the plaza.

    So we walked round the walls - each time we come here we discover new things…we found a path just outside the walls which are so huge and still intact…a medieval army would have had trouble penetrating this city! Very pretty with the leaves budding, and we finally found the entrance we should have taken yesterday when entering as pilgrims, via the Puerta Magdalena, and over a drawbridge. We bought 2 jamon and cheese half baguettes, one to share for lunch, and one is wrapped up and in our room fridge for lunch on the walk tomorrow.

    In the afternoon I sat in the plaza - there are so many seats for people to sit and watch the world go by… families with children playing, dogs, and cafes around the edge. I read my kindly while Amr had a bit of a walk - thought he may go to the museum of Navarra, but it closed at 2…so while we were sitting in the plaza we heard a band and lots of noise, and a procession of a jazz band came in surrounded with people waving tinsel-decorated umbrellas and dancing - attracting even more people, and they stopped by the rotunda and played and the crowd started dancing, and more joined them…a very happy scene. (In 2013 we saw spontaneous dancing in the plaza too, but this was different!). Then the band marched on and stopped in another plaza - we followed them and watched - the musicians were dressed in suits - but then after the next round of music they were all given a beer from the nearby bar…a fun Sunday afternoon experience! Amr has made a 10 second video which may show the ambience.

    Now just back from dinner. Before we ate we had another walk through the park, which looked over the “moat” where they have deer, peacocks, geese, chooks all wandering round…and we walked around another section of these massive walls and into the citadel area, which is now a park. Just beautiful! We found a great eatery where you could just choose dishes, not have the menu del dia, which entails 3 courses. Highlight was an octopus dish. Now back, clean and sorted for the morning’s departure. It will be about 23 kms I think, but it should be fine weather and we are ready for it!    Read more

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