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Creative Chaos. I couldn’t be tidy if I tried. Embracing 60 with a bang. Textiles, colour, scribbling … embracing life in the North. Never say never. But maybe sometimes Duct tape is good. Read more Scotland, United Kingdom
  • TravelerIndia - a journey to me
    2
    Day 34

    Chambal powercuts and wildlife

    February 8 in India ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Sometimes first impressions can be misleading. The two nights at Chambal turned out to be a tonic after initial first impressions and monosyllabic welcome. Good craic with an American group on an extensive wildlife/birding trip. They took me under their wing (pun intended) and the rest is history.

    The Chambal River is unholy which means it is incredibly clean and teaming with wildlife. A boat-trip with twitchers is incredibly relaxing when one isn’t trying to take photos. They clicked away constantly and exclaiming in delight or despair. They could barely contain themselves watching the skimmers - up there on the must see list apparently! They’re pretty birds, fascinating watching them skim the water, beak wide open. Gharials and, crocodiles basking in the sunshine, huge turtles and plenty of bird life but the dolphin remained elusive.

    I wanted to gatecrash the afternoon boat session but went with the original itinerary. Discarded havelis - texture, peeling paint, crumbling bricks and noisy curious children. Stark contrast to the serenity sitting on the banks of the Yamuna River sketching the Bateshwar Temples whilst waiting for the sunset. And how glorious it was when it arrived. Met a lovely couple from Englandshire. She’ll not forget her trip having been bitten by a monkey in Agra! Don’t look at the monkey. Amazing food and great company deep in the heart of rural India. Loved every minute - despite the power cuts.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia - a journey to me
    2
    Day 31

    A Royal Palace Bhanwar

    February 5 in India ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    A surreal two days at Bhanwar Villas Palace. The warmest of welcomes from two and four leggeds. Marwari horses have the softest noses and cutest curly ears. Unfortunately they don’t speak English and my Hindi is somewhat limited but we got along just fine in the end.

    The Maharajah and Maharini don’t stand on ceremony. They are an extraordinary couple with incredible vision and foresight combined with a strong passion for India and her people. Amongst other things they have set up sewing cooperative for the women in the villages - (how do they sew on the floor?) He is a keen farmer and lover of nature and has a passion for the Marwari horses. Palomino ones. They have both been involved in politics, with the Maharani holding office of Mayor. ‘A Princess Remembers’ is up there on the reading list. It’s all related. There is so much to learn.

    The family lived in the City Palace until 1932. A sprawling complex of helmet shaped domes intricately carved stonework and richly decorated walls. It is currently being restored - the artists having been trained by their son. Fascinating to watch them at work. It’s a sensitive merging of the old and new. It’s clever leaving sections of the original artwork to contrast and compare.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia - a journey to me
    Day 28

    Jaipur - it’s all in the detail

    February 2 in India ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Jaipur - the Pink City. Look closely and you will see so much more. It’s a city of intricate carvings on arches and columns and doorways. If it’s not carved it’s painted. Intricately carved screens for the ladies of the Royal Court and hidden galleries. I bet they had fun out of sight.

    An interesting morning with the Pink City Rickshaw company - a charitable organisation run by women for women. Rickshaws are bumpy and bring you up close - like really close and personal. A sports bra is required.

    Krishna temple very musical lots of singing, dancing, clapping. Anything goes. Mounds of petals in deep orange hues at the flower market. Their perfume heady and rich, to combat the nose of stale eau de yellow water and rotting vegetation mingled with cow. The vendors, predominantly male a touch intimidating.

    A morning sketching in the sunshine and yet more shopping.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia - a journey to me
    1
    Day 26

    Snakes and Elephants.

    January 31 in India ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I had the best experience with the rescue elephants at Dera Amer today.

    I made two new friends today. Lakshmi and ‘Colourful Garlands’ Must look up her name. Something Mala, I think. They were gentle, graceful, majestic and could certainly teach me a thing or two about being in the moment. Content just to be together in the shade. Lakshmi complaining only when the unfortunate camel came too close. Also a rescue. Their mahouts encouraging them to eat their greens as a parent consoles a toddler. I could have sat for hours content in their company. Good to share the experience with my guide and driver. Glad they came to meet my new friends. Quite a wrench leaving. On my part anyhow.

    I lie - I made three friends. There was Carlos too. Spying me with his beady eye but content to be petted on his terms only. I guess one doesn’t get up close and personal with a cobra too often!

    Amber Palace beautiful. Again blown away by the scale and majesty of these grand buildings.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia - a journey to me
    Day 25

    Riding and now Jaipur

    January 30 in India ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Last morning at Rohet spent riding on my own with head trainer. A beautiful peaceful morning and no groom to hold onto the reins! A gentle trek across the desert. Saw strutting peacocks and antelopes on heat. Trotted back but declined riding in the arena. Regretting that slightly, but my backside decided otherwise.

    Village life in full swing on our return; curious children, shy school girls and honking horns with no respect for personal space. My four legged boy had the best manners. The trainer’s horse was very skittish and danced on his. I loved every minute and next time I return I’m going to canter across the desert. My challenge.

    Selfies with the Maharajah and new friends. Loved Rohet before setting off on long drive to Jaipur.

    The mornings start off cool, warming up through the day.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia - a journey to me
    Day 24

    Jodpur - the Blue City

    January 29 in India ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Headed into Jodpur today to visit the Mehrangarh Fort. It is one of the largest in Rajastahn built in 1459 by the Rajput ruler of Rathore,
    clan Rao Jodha, though most of the existing structure is from the 17th century. There are seven gates; the main gate, Jai Pol, 'victory gate' was built by Maharaja Man Singh to commemorate his victories over the Jaipur and Bikaner armies in 1806.

    It is an incredible complex of intricately carved palaces currently undergoing restoration.

    I’m really not loving is the obligatory shopping stop at the end of every tour. Unfortunately I killed the credit card in Jodpur as the obligatory shopping stop involved fabric! Got to check out some fabulous antique fabric after discarding the obligatory tat. Hopefully it will still be fantabulous when it gets home. Not that I need any more fabric! Or stuff.

    Persuaded my guide to take me on an extra tour to the blue city in the old town. It’s very blue. The colours sing and dance with women in bright saris and artfully placed drying laundry. Juicy oranges and reds against the blues and greens. Scrummylicious. More intricate carvings and crazy narrow streets. Old men passing the time of day and children playing cricket Marigold Hotel style. The buildings were painted blue by the Brahmin inhabitants to keep the houses cooler.

    Introduced to the current Maharajah Sidharth Singh who happened to pop by to meet up with old friends and former teacher who took me under their wing. He, and they, were charming. The Maharajah has a great love for the Marwari horses and has a stable full of them. His lIt’s his passion. Oh and Little My came out to play! A wonderful last evening at Rohet.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia - a journey to me
    1
    Day 23

    Rajastahn - Mixed Day

    January 28 in India ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I need to let go of some baggage - not the physical stuff I’ve packed in my suitcase. Truth be told I need to let go of that too.

    People here are genuinely curious and charming. I think on the whole they really do want to share with you. Somehow my cynical western mind is a tad suspicious and sometimes I think too much about what people might be thinking. Note to self - so what. Just keep embracing the experience and for now take things at face value and don’t overthink it.

    I‘m so not good at bartering. I obviously paid far too much as I was given a couple of extra gifts. Where are you Joannie. It’s an art travelling alone. Enjoyed the horse riding - and then later found myself on the back of a motorbike. Kinda hairy driving into oncoming traffic to join the opposite carriageway.

    Everyone knows everyone here. Went to visit one family in the village and shared chai. One of the hotel waiters subsequently told me his wife applied my Mehendi - Henna and another told me his wife demonstrated the sewing. An intimate moment to share. Off to Jodpur tomorrow. The Blue City.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia - a journey to me
    312
    Day 22

    Rajastahn - Digging the Vibe

    January 27 in India ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Plane hopping again. Waltzed through security after yesterday’s shenanigans. What was that all about and what’s with confiscating my mosquito spray??? That’s India. No rhyme or reason.

    I’m loving it here so far. Staying in what was once an old family home. More about the House of Rohat later. It’s quite amusing I’m in a long sleeve linen shirt and others are in padded down jackets.

    There’s a real sense of character to this place. It’s battered and bruised in places but sits proudly in the landscape. Deep ochres, earthy reds and beautiful details. The general manager has a ‘tache to die for and the staff wear colourful turbans.

    The horses are gentle and I’m so in love with their curly ears. Off to ride early tomorrow. It’s very different up here in the north.

    The musicians sang a song about a wife having hiccups which were only cured after she said her husband’s name. They named the wife after me.

    .    Read more

  • TravelerIndia - a journey to me
    Day 21

    Delhi albeit fleetingly

    January 26 in India ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Only stayed one night in Delhi. Note to self : never travel on Republic Day ! Security is mega tight and common sense is non existent. Anything goes.

    They scanned my bag three times, in Madurai and made me take anything metal out. And I mean everything ! Clips, tin box, paintbrushes. He tipped the contents of my pencil case out, opened my fountain pen, and nearly confiscated my tea! That really would have been the end of the world. I think he was more curious after the second bag scan. I finally showed him my sketch book. I’m not sure what he thought but he half smiled and finally gave up on me.

    And we won’t even talk about bag scans before check in - thankfully no dirty knickers on show whilst searching for elusive battery pack or whatever they decided I should extract. In fact it was my head torch. Still politeness ruled and we had quite a good banter.

    It was cold in Delhi. Looking forward to maybe exploring on my last day.

    Crazy selection at breakfast. Italian cheeses - albeit with wrong spelling and crazy donut display. Wonder what they do with the left overs !    Read more

  • TravelerIndia - a journey to me
    12
    Day 20

    Bindi, Pomp and Circumstance!

    January 25 in India ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Greeted on arrival with fancy parasol, music, filming, ceremonial bindis and photos only to discover we had been dropped at the wrong hotel! Just can‘t get the drivers, nor welcome drinks these days.

    Arrival Take II - flower garlands, freshen up towels and welcome drink. And the right hotel.

    Just arrived in Madurai having left the film stars back at The Bangala with George fawning all over Mr Tamil Nadu or Andra Pradesh. So funny to see.

    We saw a couple of processions this morning as groups of people made their way to the temples. The women especially were decked in the brightest of saris. It’s a holy day when Lord Shiva and Parvathi are taken from the temple and washed before being returned to the temple.

    Great fun afternoon tour. The banana market set Joannie and I singing much to everyone’s amusement. Visited the main palace and saw the outside of the temple. Both are incredible and the scale indescribable. The temple grounds span 15 acres. Each gate is 56m in height and adorned with 1300 figures carved out of stucco. They are repainted every two years.
    As ever got asked for selfies and group photos. It doesn’t take much to smile and be kind. People are genuinely excited to have their photo taken with us. Lots of waving, handshakes and cuddling of babies.

    Spent our last evening with Marcelle dreaming of a cold beer only to find that much of India is dry today and tomorrow. I guess we’ve joined dry January albeit a tad late.

    Can’t believe that I shall be heading to Northern India tomorrow to start the next leg of this adventure.    Read more

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