Central to South America

december 2022 - mei 2024

Starting the trip in Costa Rica and going south with the goal to reach Bolivia by the end of March. Meer informatie

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Reiziger Central to South America
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- 1 jan. 2023
- ⛅ 26 °C
- Hoogte: 240 m
- Costa Rica Provincia de San José Santa Juana 9.273462, -83.8197939°16’24” N 83°49’11” W
Dag 16
Waterfall Nauyaca
1 januari 2023, Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
I decided to start the year the same way I hope for the rest of the year to go - exploring, hiking, swimming in a waterfall and spending time in nature.

Waterfall Nauyaca was a good option for a day trip from Quepos, accessible by 1.5hr long bus ride. I went there early, enjoyed the hike, saw some monkeys (by this time I’ve seen so many that they became a “common” sight).

I swam and chilled and recognized a familiar face - a traveler from Italy that Gaya and I kept bumping into ever since La Fortuna in different places.

He showed me that you can actually access the upper waterfall, larger and truly magnificent, so we went there and even though we were not supposed to, entered water, jumped around the rocks, enjoying the views, breeze, and just taking in everything about this cute little wild oasis.

We headed back to make it in time for the last bus at 4pm (both of us asked our drivers) but the bus never came. Then a weird “taxi” (read spooky random guy with the car) came and tried to convince us to give us a ride to the closest town for the crazy amount of money. We refused and he kept pushing which made me feel insecure for the first time on this trip and sure as hell that I won’t be entering that car.

So, logically, we decided for the safer option - hitchhiking. It was already 5:30pm, getting a bit dark, in the hills and 30km from the closest town. However we found a ride in the first 10 minutes - some old hippie Canadian expats gave us a ride in their camper van and we chatted and listen to the mellow blues sounds. There was an accident on the road and that’s why they canceled the bus without any announcement - it took us additional 2 hours in the van to reach the closest town.

We made it home around 7, taking a mix of hitchhiking, taxis and buses, but it was so much fun. A good start for sure, way better than I could’ve had planned.Meer informatie
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Reiziger Central to South America
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- 2 jan. 2023
- Hoogte: 63 m
- Costa Rica Provincia de Puntarenas Quebrada Azul Playa Playita 9.378612, -84.1233449°22’43” N 84°7’24” W
Dag 17
Manuel Antonio National Park
2 januari 2023, Costa Rica
Ehhh, here is a short one: not worth a visit. It is ok for people who go to CR just for a couple of days and want to spend a lot of money to take photos of animals.

Great marketing. Even greater prices. And the greatest crowds of Costa Rica that made me feel like I was in an amusement park for rich gringos, not national park.

If you went to as many parks and natural havens as me before going to Manuel Antonio, you will be disappointed.

However, later on I heard of a boat night tour through the park and mangroves that is quite nice, lonely and full of animal sightings. Can’t say if it is worth it as I didn’t go, but it sure sounded better than my experience.

The beach is nice, but crowded with only tourists taking photos so it also felt like fake marketing.Meer informatie
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Reiziger Central to South America
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- 4 jan. 2023
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Hoogte: 9 m
- Costa Rica Provincia de Limón Cahuita Puerto Viejo de Talamanca Punta Pirikiki 9.65766, -82.7532659°39’28” N 82°45’12” W
Dag 19
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
4 januari 2023, Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
I reached Puerto Viejo after stopping for a day in San Jose, and guess who I found at the bus station - my good old friend Diego!

Unfortunately I got immediately sick and high fever shook me for couple of days so I didn’t do much. As soon as I felt better we got together and started exploring.

It’s nice and it’s touristy, but also it’s the Caribbean, so everything is forgiven.

Puerto Viejo is nice little town and a popular stop for people crossing from Panama to Costa Rica and vice versa. Playa Negra and Cocles are two closest beaches within walking distance and they are nice, but there are nicer ones around.

I ate almost every day different versions of rice and beans - not because there were not other options, but because they were absolutely amazing, cooked with coconut milk and a bit spicy.Meer informatie
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Reiziger Central to South America
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- 6 jan. 2023
- ☀️ 25 °C
- Hoogte: 13 m
- Costa Rica Provincia de Limón Cahuita Comadre 9.700935, -82.811349°42’3” N 82°48’41” W
Dag 21
Cahuita National Park
6 januari 2023, Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
The moment I felt better I decided to go on a trip and having read that Cahuita is very easy to walk (though it could be long) it was an easy choice. We were welcomed by a toucan which my expert bird-watching friend saw within seconds of arriving at the reception. I loved Cahuita, saw tons of insects, lizards, some more birds aaand of course monkeys and sloths.

But the star of the day was definitely yellow eyelash pit viper, hidden beneath the broken tree skin of a palm tree. If it wasn’t for a small group of people looking at it, I am not sure we would’ve seen it. Well, maybe Diego’s sharp eyes accostumed to movement, colors and adaptations of tropical fauna, but mine for sure not.

I was feeling tired from being sick and laying in bed for a couple of days so we were making a lot of breaks. There were a lot of people, but it was still great to be there.

The beach was also quite nice and I enjoyed the Caribbean sea for the first time since getting there ☺️Meer informatie
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Reiziger Central to South America
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- 7 jan. 2023
- Hoogte: 13 m
- Costa Rica Provincia de Limón Punta Uva Quebrada Ernesto 9.638049, -82.6943549°38’17” N 82°41’40” W
Dag 22
Punta Uva
7 januari 2023, Costa Rica
Punta Uva was a really rewarding trip. Diego and I went with a bus and walked alongside the coast, enjoying the views, and finding random sleeping sloths and monkeys. Seeing them literally hanging from the trees I got an impression that they really know how to enjoy the view.

After the walk we decided to rent a kayak for like 10$ and go up the river, from the place where it enters the sea. That was absolutely the best call - I felt like in the Indiana Jones movie - the river was super calm and mirror-like, reflecting trees which were intertwining couple of meters above our heads. There were vines hanging, eagles praying, turtles swimming and taking sun… and absolute quiet once we got upstream enough for the forest to absorb the sounds of the people at the beach. Unfortunately I didn’t bring the phone, so this amazing scenery, you’ll just have to imagine!!

One of the best experiences not advertised at all, and quite cheap for Costa Rica.Meer informatie
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Reiziger Central to South America
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- 8 jan. 2023
- Hoogte: 18 m
- Costa Rica Provincia de Limón Cahuita Manzanillo Punta Mona 9.631943, -82.6199799°37’55” N 82°37’12” W
Dag 23
Manzanillo Nature Reserve
8 januari 2023, Costa Rica
Manzanillo was my last trip in Costa Rica, and good one to wrap up the trip - finally I found some frogs!

Ok, they weren’t bright blue, or pink, or green, but they were tiny and pretty and I saw them by myself (wellll ok, thanks Diego for the first one)

The reserve itself was nice, but more of the same that got me feeling really spoiled , never have I thought that I would get used to seeing monkeys, sloths, morpho butterflies and colorful birds all the time.

The final beach that we reached was finally calm and nice for taking a dip - it was kinda hidden (thanks Diego) and we even saw a stingray and a flatfish pass by us in the clear shallow water 🤩Meer informatie
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Reiziger Central to South America
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- 9 jan. 2023
- Hoogte: 70 m
- Panama Provincia de Bocas del Toro La Gruta 9.385361, -82.2684689°23’7” N 82°16’6” W
Dag 24
Bocas del Toro
9 januari 2023, Panama
The following day I crossed to Panama and head straight to Bocas del Toro. From the first five minutes on the main island I could feel it was dangerous - I missed the island life so much that I could easily get stuck there for a long time.

Which was kinda true and kinda not in the end. I stayed 7 days - catching up with work, learning to dive with Panama Dive Center but most of all, relaxing after crazy three weeks in Costa Rica.

Diving was great and that much more great that I head to move the boundaries of my water comfort. Beaches were nice, blue, calm and everything about the Caribbean that I missed in Costa Rica. Out of the main island the space was vast, wild, and just so beautiful.

Love Bocas, but there is a big but. Local people felt really rude and interested to communicate or note that tourists exist. Sometimes to an extent of not saying even Hello.Meer informatie
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Reiziger Central to South America
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- 15 jan. 2023
- Hoogte: 1.097 m
- Panama Provincia de Chiriquí Pueblo Nuevo 8.777095, -82.432038°46’38” N 82°25’55” W
Dag 30
Boquete and Flower Festival
15 januari 2023, Panama
Saying goodbye to Bocas was slow, hard and indefinite, but I got motivation to keep moving in order to make it to Colombia in the first week of February.

I headed to Boquete for some hiking - writing this retrospectively I realize that I keep going from the mountains to the coast to the mountains to the sea etc.

Arrival to Boquete was a curvy road and the whole shuttle ended up being super carsick. This resulted in me not being able to book a bed while on the road and barely being able to find an accommodation once I got there. It was a flower festival in Boquete - super crowded week where all the locals from different part of Panama head to Boquete.

In the end I found Boquete very cute and friendly. A lot of activities around as well, so I really enjoyed my time there. A lot of culture and indigenous people with indigenous clothes-reminded me of Chiapas a little bit! Worth a 4-5 days visit.Meer informatie
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Reiziger Central to South America
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- 16 jan. 2023
- Hoogte: 1.876 m
- Panama Provincia de Chiriquí Alto Chiquero Quebrada Becuel 8.843211, -82.473948°50’36” N 82°28’26” W
Dag 31
Las Tres Cascadas
16 januari 2023, Panama
The first trek in Panama was an easy one. Las Tres Cascadas is supposeddly one of the nicest hikes around Boquete area, but let me be more blunt like the blogs that I read before going there were not: it is too easy. It is short, expensive, and very well maintained.

The most beautiful waterfall is the first one but it is fenced and out of reach. The other two you can visit and even swim, but they are less high and less spectacular. The price of 10$ is also kinda discouraging because there are many free stuff you can do in the area.

I did see some nice birds while hiking there.Meer informatie
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Reiziger Central to South America
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- 18 jan. 2023
- 🌧 19 °C
- Hoogte: 1.759 m
- Panama Provincia de Chiriquí Alto Chiquero Quebrada Tormenta 8.845675, -82.4852958°50’44” N 82°29’7” W
Dag 33
El Castillo y Los Ladrillos on foot
18 januari 2023, Panama ⋅ 🌧 19 °C
A combination of bus ride and walking to reach an abandoned and supposedly cursed castle and natural rock climbing wall can be made harder and more exciting if you choose to carry a 4-month old baby with you.

My young host really wanted to give it a try and do the hike along the street (like 9km in total) with her baby and a baby bag full of stuff. Also in crocs.

After some 2km of going uphills, she kindly asked me if I could carry the baby because she is not fit enough. My biceps, more than my kindness, took it as a challenge and I carried the baby for the rest of the day. I was eternally thanked to by my host, and also peed on by the little bastard. It was kinda fun though.

The rock climbing wall was cool and I wish I was in a different situation where I could have actually climbed it. The castle is just a locked up abandoned villa that you can’t even come close to but see a glimpse of it through the gates. The landscapes and river views were amazing everywhere along the way, and I even got some free guavas from the tree by the road 🤤Meer informatie
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Reiziger strong girl !
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