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mengembara di 18 negara. Baca lagi England, United Kingdom
  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    Hari 18

    18 Perito Moreno Glacier !

    23 November 2023, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    The hostel is great abd a great sleep in to - up at 8 for bus trip to Perito Moreno Glacier with Boat trip . Sun shining ! Blue sky ! Fantastic day ahead !

    We make a few stops on the hour trip to glacier to view from afar. The landscape is very arid here on the steppe . Calafate bushes carry blue berries that are used as local liquor.The Yellow flower bush is used as medicine for a bad chest

    Adiabatic and katabatic wind processes operate over the Andes . So obviously wet and cold on mountains but moisture disappears on this side and at the glacier we are
    closer to the Pacific Ocean - here the dry winds leave an arid steppe desert type landscape all the way to east coast
    Nortris or coccineum or fire bush with red flowers
    provide some colour and are everywhere

    We arrive ! Amazing !
    The multi walkways allow us to view the left side of glacier , Brazo Rico , where the lake is milky flour grey rock coloured and the glacier is 60 to 120m to uneven bottom. The face is about 70 m high .
    There is the point where the ice bridge and tunnel would be but it hasn’t been formed and fallen since 2018 so it’s just a snout !
    From time to time huge
    chunks of ice fall from the top with a loud crack and accompanying huge splash .
    On the right side is the canal de tempanos where the glacier is 160 m and grounded and the lake is a light azure blue !

    The boat cruise takes us even closer to the glacier and the blue crevasses and seracs ! It’s like a cathedral with sunlit blue windows !
    In the distance we can see the lucky hundred or so who have bought a ticket to climb on the moraine and hike up part of the glacier !
    A fantastic day of awesome glacier and beautiful blue sky weather !
    And another restful night in the hostel !
    Photo choice today is a little difficult !    Baca lagi

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
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    Hari 18

    17 South to El Calafate

    23 November 2023, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Not a bad night despite the stiffness and cramps in legs after the hike!
    Bus drive for the morning and a last photo of the big one Fitz Roy!
    We skirt the large lakes of Viedma and Argentino.
    On the trip we pass by one of the supposed places Butch Cassidy stopped , hotel de campo la leona.
    A thanksgiving chat with Alan is uplifting.
    A thanksgiving chat follows with another which highlights the alternative view of the event .
    It’s lunch in the city after a detour to see the harbour front :NOT
    Packing for the W walk precedes the Glacier boat ride tomorrow !
    We regroup over a snack and beer as town is touristy !
    Atlas Obscura to the rescue :
    Just outside town sits the Glaciarium, a modern glacier interpretation center that’s also home to the world’s only bar made entirely of glacial ice.! It’s a museum of ice and glaciers and then two free drinks - vodka , whisky local hooch . It saves the day

    .    Baca lagi

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
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    Hari 17

    16 Big mountain Big walk Fitz Roy

    22 November 2023, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    A good nights sleep with no wind and almost warm !
    A good morning call with Hugh and he’s good !
    A short hike to the entrance and we’re off into the park to attempt the 10km walk up to the Laguna de los Tres!
    It’s a beautiful blue sky day and the sun is shining !
    Well …. It was a bloody long way supposedly 20 km but my watch counting steps tells me the day was over 20miles! This the result of small steps especially on the last 2km which was up a steep vertical slope!
    The first part is a short climb then a 4- 6 km flat bit with emerging views of Fitz Roy as the cloud passes by it ! The final part of the climb is a beast supposedly 2km but far worse and longer !
    We complete the walk -it took 8 hrs ! My thighs are stiff ! It was tougher probably because it’s longer than Kilimanjaro! That was tough as oxygen was low but this is steeper and more straight up !
    So I have a theory which is a bit Father Ted ….mountains are big when they are far away but mountains are also big when you get nearer ! Mountains are also best viewed from a distance - especially if there is a chance to walk closer to said mountain !
    At times mount FitzRoy is partly hidden but eventually the ziggurat appears ! Colossal!
    On the way back we pass the Lagunas and it’s downhill
    It’s another Redgrave moment ! 8 hrs ! Up hill !
    A grand day out and my legs will feel it in two days !    Baca lagi

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    Hari 16

    15 Onto El Chalten

    21 November 2023, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    A restful night after some bartering with hostel owner over room availability we all manage to get a bed . Semi restful sleep as 5am cock crow was pretty insistent ! Aghhh on other matters !
    The route south is over some bleak semi arid flat plain and the wind continues to blow us about - it’s about 400km today!!
    Lago Cardiel’s azure blue lake breaks the blasted flatlands landscape . From here it’s all alti-plato and big views of big scenery and big sky with big clouds. The is part paved and part washboard and I think I’m sitting on the rear axel/ wheels .
    It’s a straight road south towards Mount Fitz Roy one of the impressive mountains on the world soaring granite towers rise up from the flat step. Described more as a ziggurat than a mountain and shouldered by a group of spires and more pillow like clouds.3405m high !
    Camping tonight fingers crossed . Sleep well Hugh see you soon !    Baca lagi

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    Hari 15

    14 And now the border drive south

    20 November 2023, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    Well an interesting night . Great meal at the bush camp followed by an early night as we are to be up early and the rain is approaching. Bedding down is easy and I even get read my kindle.
    1am and the world is ending ! Big Winds on our lakeside ledge ! Tent is blowing in and buffeting badly . We survive but then there is talk and shouting outside and very strange yelps and it’s not another disco . In the morning we discover that a coyote came to visit and people were shining torches and was a bit too close!
    Laguna verde is an early stop
    as we contemplate the time taken to get through customs at los Antiguos
    Okay paperwork was going well and no search and the a missing form / 2 hrs.
    On the road supermarcado shop and marmalade or as close as it comes ! We press on and Winnie the Pooh would be happy as a bloody windy day under the blue sky and sun !
    Argentina re-election. Results - chain saw man wins by a good margin/ slice ? Maybe the 150percent inflation will be affected . The cost of goods here is so much cheaper than Chile!
    Travelling across the bleak flatlands keeps the truck wobbling but we still have sunshine.
    Off-road for a while and a special visit to Cueva de las manos , prehistoric paintings on the side walls of a verdant river rift valley from 9000 to 13000bc . Four galleries of over 800 paintings and by the Tondense people - all but a few are left hands painted by right handed! It was discovered in 72 ! It’s a great 2km walk down the side of the valley showing also animals esp. guanacos , hunts, calendars and coincidentally one hand with six fingers !!!! My ancestors ?
    The day is still very sunny with the wind - a 70k trek now to find a bush camp.
    No camp - too windy ! Hostel !    Baca lagi

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    Hari 14

    13 Break for the Argentina border again

    19 November 2023, Chile

    After a quiet dry night in town we discover again that local disco is located on the outskirts of town and people rev their cars to leave said disco! Otherwise a good night as it’s dry.
    We are embroiled in absent members WhatsApp tirade and now someone has lost a power pack .
    It’s an early start but we’re late so we may camp this side of border as the road is pretty tortuous and there’s a lot of washboard type going up and also going down!
    So the truck and big brother dynamics after two weeks: there are the originals with one or two issues! There are the newbies - us plus three ; then there is the-young guns vs old hands; also a few individuals who try to co exist wisely . There two married couple . Two this tour joined couples. And us ? We are definitely the odd couple with quirks and bickering! With three weeks left for us but some of the originals are going further so local irritations will grow - watch this space!
    We pass through the comuna de Rio Ibanez , a road through the mountains , scree one side and snow capped mountains the next - spectacular scenery even better in the sunshine, still tracking the Austral road.
    We eventually bottom out in the classic glaciated U shaped Valley and river .
    The big lake Lago
    General Carerra bordering Patagonia national park appears to go on forever as we hug it’s shoreline.
    As we were late setting off our plan now is to camp this side and cross tomorrow as are unlikely to make it to Chile Chico crossing tonight .
    Food to be hidden ?    Baca lagi

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    Hari 13

    12 Radio silence on road to Coyhaique

    18 November 2023, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    We had a quieter earlier night as we’re up at 6am for a road trip and hoping we are luckier with the weather ! Last nights rainbow was not the promise of gold we hoped for - more bad weather!
    I was warm last night but couldn’t get to sleep really and the 5am call came quickly.
    It’s windy and we are told we
    Have a lot of miles to do .
    The weather isn’t good ahead and proposed trip to the hanging glacier isn’t going to happen as apart from work on the park we won’t be able to see it in the low mist!
    We are into the mountains and waterfalls and rivers and some dismal weather conditions! We pass by huge lago Yeltcho and through the Macizo Nevada.
    Finally we reach a proper road and the jumps and bounces give way to a smooth ride- it’s only 10am with more to go !
    As an aside we did manage to
    Book the Perito Moreno Glacier and Boat Safari for next week!
    It’s Saturday and the truck is
    Quiet and relatively empty - four covid isolating and three others who are missing camping and will rejoin us later after our frolics !
    We are back on the zig zag route up the mountain and into the snow . Impressive views and cold air in the Queulat national park as we travel down the main route Caretteror Austral.
    We finally arrive at 6 and we are dining in town and not wild camping but camping in a camp site and big news … it’s warm and not raining !!!!yippee    Baca lagi

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    Hari 11

    11 - what next , where next ?

    16 November 2023, Chile ⋅ 🌧 4 °C

    Well the falling down drinks were good but walking back in the rain and dark was not so good! As the camp ground was amphibious most of us bedded in the hut with a dwindling fire. Top tip- don’t put your bed next to the door and wind ! A mixed night !
    The morning was still a tad damp - even the rafting appears to be off as the water is too high !
    Maybe a walk to pass the time ? We trek down the road with the weather closing in and improving and then raining hard! 6k and then back as we don’t find the bridge that would have taken us back on the other side of the river ! Great scenery but probably best seen in the dry !
    A dog adopts us and keeps us company for almost 4k before a friend of the dog’s owner offers the dog a lift home ! Lucky dog!
    Back in town it’s still pretty quiet but coffee stop keeps us dry for a while !
    Back to the hut to dry out and maybe an early dinner    Baca lagi

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    Hari 11

    10 Back to Chile and Futaleufu

    16 November 2023, Chile ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    Another early start and a long drive back to Chile , another border customs check before we reach our camp !
    Last night was better apart
    from Andy’s hunt the sleeping bag opening ordeal at 2am!
    One more unwell and they will catch up later!
    I have perfected one cup porridge on the stove now just have to source marmalade!

    Over the heavily wooded hills again and up and down all morning. We slowly pass through the Andes foothills complete with rivers and waterfalls before reaching the lower plains scrubland and sunshine .
    The day is turning and mucho rain later.
    The views are good whilst the weather is good .
    A detour takes us through the green green valleys on New Wales not that you would notice other than a tattered Welsh flag on a gatepost !
    The blue skies disappear and the rain is on big time - it’s just like Wales!
    We arrive at the town , a one horse town which is big on white water rafting !
    We take the option of all bunking down in the Quinta, the small hut with a fire !
    We quickly depart to the pub the Madero!
    Good beers - stout and amber !    Baca lagi

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    1
    Hari 10

    9 Bariloche Circuito Chico and Llao Llao

    15 November 2023, Argentina ⋅ 🌫 5 °C

    After a better night’s sleep - it was a warmer night - and I had bought another sleeping bag too! The night did have some excitement as Andy had a nightmare ! Awake for five or so minutes , he raved about how I was telling him to get out of the tent , couldn’t find the door or his shoes and supposedly I was particularly concerned about people who were stealing things from the tent ! Most odd - he had no recollection of the event ! It brought back memories of his spiders on the wall incident from our New York trip of 78!
    Andrew slept well - I was awake for about half an hour wondering what the hell that was all about ! I guess he was tired!

    Breakfast sorted we head out to do the circuito chico , a heavily forested nature park with treks ! We are warned that some of it is closed due the severe weather ! Confused as it’s slightly windy we just did it with sun shining , some drizzle and some wind ! Odd!
    We did 10 miles of great views of huge trees - a mixture of myrtle (Arrayanes ) and conifers , pines , firs , cedars and Southern beech !
    There are great views of Mirador Lago Moreno and the snow capped mountains but the mist is coming in slowly. We make it to the top of Llao Llao for some windy views !
    There are some sights on the woodland walk of the national flower , the ceibo. Also the
    occasional bird with a red beak who blocks our path!

    The promised rain hasn’t arrived and it’s another sunny day !

    Back at the ranch two of the ladies have been ill and it’s covid - the big brother conspiracy theory is rife - they’re off the bus for five days ! We all take precautions !

    The bar at the end of the street beckons and we sample    Baca lagi

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