Camino Via de la Plata

September - October 2022
My third and longest Camino Read more
  • 51footprints
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  • 36days
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  • 3.8kkilometers
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  • Day 4

    Day 4 - Castilblanco - 18.5 km

    September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Breakfast at 6.15 am - Cafe con leche and toast
    Left around 6.30 in the dark. I had planned to leave a little earlier but luckily I didn’t. Just on the edge of town I met two other peregrinos with a headlamp so I could follow them and not use up my phone battery.
    The initial walk along a main road was tricky so I was incredibly grateful to have these two guides - Camino Angels.
    All the people I have met so far are Spanish with little or no English. One of my fellow walkers was very talkative so I taught him some English words and he taught me some Spanish. He was a fan of Uriah Heap.
    Most of the day we walked through the rural areas and it was slightly up hill all the way - I was pretty tired by the end. I walked with Juan and Tomas for about 10 km and then stopped for a break as they went off ahead.
    About 3 km along I slightly turned my left ankle - the one I sprained 3 years ago. I guess it still isn’t as strong as I imagined. But it was not too bad and with my poles and concentration I finished the mornings walk.
    Of course I left my ankle strap behind thinking that my ankle was good now. Haha. Good thing we are walking from town to town and I can get anything I need - next stop Farmacia for an ankle bandage.
    Oops. Farmacia closed at 2 pm
    So for tomorrow I decided to take a taxi half way - to the National Park which is then a flat walk - get my pack sent ahead- and walk the last 12 km in the Park with my day pack. Have drugs and cream and a pressure sock so hopefully that will be enough.
    And as I returned to the albergue I was invited to share a taxi in exactly this way. Blessings abound. And the English speaking host at the albergue booked my next accomodation and arranged for the taxi to take my bag ahead. How blessed am I.
    There is an Australian (Wollongong) couple here today, a young man from Switzerland and the rest Spanish.
    All is good. I feel safe and protected in all ways.
    Buen Camino
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  • Day 5

    Day 5 - Almadén - taxi 16 km: walk 12 km

    September 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Not a great nights sleep - it took a long time to go to sleep and a scratchy throat kept waking me up. Was it the water - which tastes a bit heavy in minerals and feels astringent - or something else?
    Anyway had a nice chat with Martin over breakfast and discovered todays walk in the Parque - literally- is not flat but has a 540 metre climb right at the end.
    The morning was lovely and cool and the taxi took us to the gates of Parque National Sierra Norte.
    The initial section is flat and filled with cork trees in full production. Of course I didn’t take much notice of the second part of the Parque’s name - Sierra Norte - which means northern highlands. It wasn’t till I saw a profile map of this stage at breakfast that I realised I was in for a big ending - I called today the Pyrenees of the South. Haha
    While at times it was a very challenging day we saw deer, a small lake, dried river beds, cork trees and had a tree covered mountain (with a view) to climb before we got to the lovely white town of Almadén.
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  • Day 6

    Day 6 - El Real de la Jara - 14 km

    September 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Oh what a night…..
    The scratchy throat bothered me all afternoon and evening. I really was not feeling well. Then I remembered the little lolly shop just down the road which was open in the afternoon for the kids.
    Remember Spain has a solid siesta anywhere from 2 - 6 pm and nowhere else was open. So I went down and with the help of the lovely lady proprietor found some throat lozenges.
    They were a great help. A while later my eyes started streaming. That’s when I realised this was an allergy and not a bug, so I dived into my antihistamines (sleepy ones) and finally had a pretty good nights sleep.
    Feeling better this morning though still not 100%. It’s only 13 km today and the weather is significantly cooler so I can have a bit of a lie in. There was only one other person at this albergue, Martin from Switzerland, and he left early for his 34 km day. There are around 9 pilgrims per day at the moment. So I am not alone but can have my alone time as needed.
    Today was really sweet. I walked with a man from Italy who, when he was a boy, had been traumatised by a dog. And there were plenty of dogs today so he stuck close to me. I also walked with the Italian couple again. They are older and go at my pace.
    This route today took us off road through a number of farms with plenty of dogs, pigs, and goats for meat and milk.
    I also passed my first shrine - to Mother Mary. I spent a few quite moments with her and felt the deep stillness and peace that is really everywhere but seemingly easier to connect to in such places.
    I feel very much at home in Spain even though I hardly understand a thing. People are generally kind and patient although sometimes look at me like I am an idiot - and I don’t blame them. I am practicing my Spanish every night and am getting a little better.
    After we arrived at El Real and found our accommodation, my three walking companions and I had a great mid afternoon lunch. My Italian friend has a bit of English so he could translate - and I have Google.
    There is an old castle from the Middle Ages on the hill overlooking El Real. I walked up there for a good view of the surrounding countryside. Except for the types of trees I could be in Australia.
    The sunrises and sunsets have been spectacular and the light has its own special glow.
    Buen Camino.
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  • Day 7

    Day 7 - Monestario - 20 Km

    September 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We walked out of Andelusia and crossed into Extremadora this morning. There was a great castle from the middle ages right on the border. Beautiful.
    And today started with another surprise. My camel back leaked most of its water through my pack and down my back. I saved some and hoped I had enough for the day. The bonus was that my pack was suddenly much lighter and the walking easier. Anyway I eventually forgot about water and thirst - took little frequent sips, ate my mandarin and had a heathy morning tea of canned octopus in oil and bread.
    Imagine my surprise when my companions said there should be (a previously undisclosed) cafe at the 10 km mark. I got my cafe con leche which I missed this morning- and a water top up. Phew.
    Monesterio is the Jamon capital of Spain. There is even a Jamon Museum. Jamon is like prosciutto but is from the back leg of the pig. The Jamon from this part of Spain is particularly flavoursome because the pigs are free range and eat the acorns from the cork oaks. It is very expensive- hence €6 for a Jamon bocadillo. The Jamon negro is the most sought after at €16+ per kilo when buying the whole leg.
    So I saw many happy piggies in the fields as I walked today though they are eventually destined for consumption. Poor piggies.
    Our little group scored a great hostel for tonight - single room for €12.
    We finished the day with a taxi ride to the Monestario de Tentudia - again built in the Middle Ages during the war between the Catholic monarchs of northern Spain and the ‘Muslim troops’. 😢
    It’s on the highest hill/mountain in the area. Apparently on a clear day you can see Seville.
    Just waiting to go out to have some dinner.
    Buen Camino
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  • Day 8

    Day 8 - Calzadilla - 20 km / taxi 6 km

    September 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Extremadura - a day of rolling wheat fields: some recently harvested and some already plowed ready for winter sowing.
    I think today was the easiest longer distance so far. No mountains to climb, cooler weather - but still that last 5 km seems like the previous 15 put together.
    I am feeling much better - ankle has nearly recovered and should be OK, as long as it doesn’t twist again (it is weaker and more prone to giving way) and my throat seems to have consolidated into something more like a head cold, and the body is slowly getting stronger - all in all not too bad
    I am the slowest in my small group and I think they take it in turns to wait for me. They are so kind. We also met Max from Canada who started in Sevilla a bit after me - a young man who caught up with us oldies. 🤣🤣🤣
    I might have already mentioned that the Spanish couple are 67 and the Italian man is 51.
    Our 20 km took us to Fuente but accomodation there is very expensive so we took a taxi 6 km to the next town and we are in a lovely Albergue beside the church. This will also make tomorrow’s stage only 16 km.
    A lady came and opened the church at 6 pm and I am sitting here writing my blog.
    I notice that since we entered Extremadura there are a lot more signs of Christianity than in Andelusia. Given that Andelusia was the last Moorish stronghold in that terrible war I can understand the general antipathy towards Christianity. I was pretty distressed myself with the actions of the Christian army and I was just a visitor.
    However true spirituality manifests as Love no matter what the outer ‘covering’ and given this is a Christian pilgrimage route I am happy to see the Christian churches open and more wayside shrines.
    The two churches I have been in so far all honour Mother Mary (Ave Maria) with a very gentle and lovely energy.
    It feels very nice sitting here - safe and calm. An older couple just arrived and I hope they don’t take offence at my writing the blog.
    The time and energy that goes into creating all the sacred objects and statues is amazing - but it is certainly one way to keep the mind and heart on the higher virtues and on the Divine.
    Maybe this is why I am and many others walk the Camino de Santiago- to connect to that stream of Love that is the essence of all paths and faiths.
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  • Day 9

    Day 9 - Zafra 17.5 km

    September 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    The day started with a spectacular sunrise and a brisk walk to the local restaurant for cafe con leche.
    Today we moved from wheat fields to olive trees, grapes, melons - more diverse framing. The walk was relatively flat and easy, and I am feeling stronger and more present.
    However …. Now I have a small blister on one toe. 😂🤣😅
    I had a blessing in a small town just before I got to Zafra. The local church was open - two women were there doing the cleaning etc. I got a stamp on my Credential and was able to sit for a while. The churches have many figures of Jesus, Mary and other saints, which are incredibly ornate, all around the walls. Beautiful.
    There is a fiesta in Zamora over the next few days; in actual fact the annual agricultural fair with all the trimmings we would expect at home. It means the town is full and busy.
    Tomorrow I will walk 4 km only to the next small town and have a rest day to give my feet and body a chance to catch up with itself.
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  • Day 10

    Day 10 - Summary: walk 126 km - taxi 22

    September 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    When I informed our Albergue hosts that I would do a short 4 km walk to the next town today, (all private accommodation is booked out in Zafra due to the fiesta) they kindly invited me to stay another night. On Camino Frances you can only stay one night in a Municipal Albergue, unless you have a doctors note. This Camino is much harder - dare I say brutal - but with not so many pilgrims I guess the albergue rules can be more flexible. So a much needed rest day in Zafra.
    I have had a few long chats with Clare, one of the hospitalaros, and she said it’s not so much the distances on VDLP but the fact that there are no towns or services in between stages - so one tends to just motor on. And you need to carry food and additional water.
    I notice that I have not taken as many breaks - even just sitting by the side of the road - as I might have in the past. This was due partly to the fact that there were no villages in which to stop and partly because the group I have been loosely attached to walked faster and longer than I would normally do. They have looked out for me which has been fabulous but they also waited for me to catch up. So I guess I have been pulled to walk faster than I might when on my own.
    Anyway our little party has broken up. Ino and Balbi are taking the train back to Sevilla and Jocamo is taking a train or bus to Cáceres and then will move to Camino Portuguese. He doesn’t like this Camino. 😂
    Well, truth be told, nor do I at the moment. But I am the type of person who likes to finish what she started. And I know the liking and disliking are not the truth.
    On reflecting on the last 10 days I can see that I need to take more breaks wherever I am, practice gratitude and appreciation for what is, know that the body is getting stronger every day and it will feel easier as the weeks go by and stay in the day - one day, one hour, one step at a time. After all there is only the day I am in.
    I just worked out that I am averaging 14 km a day - not so shabby in these early stages carrying my pack. Hooray for me 🥳🥳🥳
    Pics are from walking around the streets of Zafra last night.
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  • Day 10

    One day in Zafra - Fiesta

    September 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    NOTE: Animals were harmed in this post!!! Vegetarians beware.
    It’s fiesta in Zafra - actually the agricultural show. I was expecting a small local event but this is like the Royal Easter Show. Not quite as big but still pretty huge - maybe the annual agricultural show for all of Extremadura.
    I had a wander around the animal exhibits and felt sorry for the cattle and sheep. I am not sure what was happening to the pigs but it seems their pavilion was closed this morning and there was a lot of squealing at one point. Perhaps judging time.
    I am sitting watching the horses go through their paces. I suspect the first one might win - she is very talented. - but his handler didn’t seem very nice. I think they get points for the horse and handler and it’s all a bit different from what we are used to. I am sure they are reading out the scores but it’s all Spanish to me. 🤣
    I stopped by the open air food BBQ area - paella, pulpo (octopus), chicken, and every type of meat you can imagine plus chips and veges all cooked in the open air in huge pans over hot coals. Very expensive but the best pulpo I have eaten since Portugal.
    In Spain there does not seem to be such a huge gap as their is in Sydney town, between the living animal and the eating of that animal, .
    Spent the afternoon sorting out paperwork- yes it still appears on Camino - and resting up for tomorrow.
    PS. One of the most interesting sights in Zafra are the rocky cliffs you can see in the distance from various parts of town.
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