Réinitialiser la recherche
Linda GinenthalLinda Ginenthal
SatelliteModifier l’itinéraire
s’est rendu dans 9 pays. En savoir plus Victoria, Canada
  • VoyageurMexico City, DC, & Family 2024
    Jour 20

    Day Seven - Coyoacán

    2 mai, Mexique ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We bussed down to a new neighbourhood today, Coyoacán. Gail and I will be staying here for six nights later in our trip. What a pretty town square and shops. First stop was the Leo Trotsky home. While he was briefly Frida Kahlo’s lover, his history is brutal. His troops were stationed away from the front lines to capture and kill any Russian soldier who tried to escape. His home displays his personal life, office and a good history of his involvement and then escape from Stalin’s wrath (although not successfully as he was killed in Mexico City by Stalin’s henchmen). In any case, it was a great spot to visit.

    Next we visited a Mexican cultural arts museum. The items were considered “craft” which is usually reserved for women’s art. Ceramics, textiles, beadwork demonstrated incredible artistry and skill - and a bit of whimsy too. I loved the giant elephant covered with seed-beads. This was an homage to the Africans living in Mexico. It was unclear if this was about slavery or just diaspora. It seems like there is a concerted effort to celebrate the rich indigenous heritage here.

    We found a taco place to die for. All over Mexico City tacos are the main show. The trick is to only eat at the ones that are busy with customers - they know what is good. Since all the tortillas are made just with corn, Sheryl can eat them all and she has.

    Next stop were the lines for the Frida Kahlo family home. There were scant examples of her artwork except drawings on her body casts and prosthetic legs. They had her bed with the mirror above so she could paint/draw her self-portraits. I didn’t realize that in addition to her catastrophic trolley crash that impaled her body, she also had polio as a child. It is a miracle she lived. Like many homes, she and her family had a beautiful central garden allowing airflow and privacy from the street. It was pretty packed as museums go. It’s not a very large house and the narratives were detailed. If you were patient enough, it was super fun and informative.

    Tomorrow we head over to the historic center of Mexico City where we will spend three nights with Gail Gabler. Can’t wait!    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • VoyageurMexico City, DC, & Family 2024
    Jour 19

    May Day - University and San Angel

    1 mai, Mexique ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Today is May Day! And the public museums which are many, are closed. We went down to the University (UNAM) to see the tiled and some painted murals on the campus. The size and scale of these storied murals tell again the history and Mexican perspective. There was a small “encampment” but it had nothing to do with Gaza. They were protesting some other atrocity and missing person(s) in Mexico.

    We stumbled across the Museo del Carmen located in the San Angel district. As a private museum or really a convent, it was open. We were able to go from room to room exploring how these nuns lived and this less than austere building. I guess poverty does not mean without beauty in this instance.

    We wanted to visit the home that Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo shared - with a walkway in between the two separate buildings, but they are doing a major renovation. They would be rolling over in their graves if they could see this very wealthy neighbourhood that their home now is situated in.

    Before we headed home, we stopped for a lovely (giant) glass of Mexican white wine. It was quite delicious. It tasted like a sauvignon blanc. Estoy muy contenta.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • VoyageurMexico City, DC, & Family 2024
    Jour 18

    Day Five - La Condesa Market and Polanco

    30 avril, Mexique ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Right outside our door was a wonderful three-block food market. We hurried over to the tamale stand that Sheryl had read about and bought six before she ran out. We also filled up on some fruits and veggies. Nice start to the day.

    We went up to the Soumaya Museum . The architecture of it is sparkling outside and holds 4 floors each successively smaller accessed by a circular ramp all the way up. It houses an extraordinary one-person/family’s collection of art steeped in Mexican cultural heritage as well as of technological progress. I loved the large array of telephones from the wooden kind with a crank to the modern brick cellphone. The top floor was devoted to primarily bronze sculptures that I don’t seem to have taken a picture of. I guess I was so taken, I forgot. I highly recommend this free museum.

    Across the street was the Jumex Museum. We didn’t go in but the sculpture outside was ginormous! This neighbourhood, Polanco, is quite posh. The coffee shops and shops charge premium prices for everything. It was pretty though. They have a really nice rails to trails with a separated bikeway and walkway. It didn’t look like the railway was operational but the rails were still there.

    We finally used the bus system. It was good. Fairly easy and very frequent - 5 minute headways. Walking behind the bus station, we saw evidence of an earthquake that split the sidewalk and up a very old wall. The earthquake thing here is kinda scary. They happen not infrequently. The story is that earthquakes happen in September - or at least the last three big ones have been in September. Hmmmm.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • VoyageurMexico City, DC, & Family 2024
    Jour 17

    Teotihuacán

    30 avril, Mexique ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We hemmed and hawed about whether we should get out of the city to go see these ruins. We were not disappointed. The massive pyramids, sculptures and murals that have survived for nearly 2000 years did impress. We walked and climbed up and down the very steep steps although not the three pyramids themselves. My quads will complain for the next couple of days.

    There is not much to say except it was fascinating and we are really glad we made this bus trip. If you are thinking of going, don’t bother with a guide - there are lots of plaques and information kiosks with what you are looking at. You can also pause to take in the sights at your own pace.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • VoyageurMexico City, DC, & Family 2024
    Jour 16

    La Condesa

    28 avril, Mexique ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I wrote this in Spanish first and then checked it in English and then back to Spanish. You can see from the English that the translation below that it is a bit odd. That is what you get with translation apps….

    Nos quedamos en el barrio de la Condesa. Nos encanta. Hoy había un mercado justo enfrente de nuestro departamento. Compramos verduras, frutas, y deliciosos tamales ricos. Los precios son más caros que en otros barrios, pero tres zanahorias cuestan cinco pesos – o casi 80 centavos USD. Seis tamales, tres tamales de pollo y tres tamales de mole con pollo cuestan cien pesos (casi 6 dólares USD). Y la gente es muy amable. No son muy agresivos en los mercados.
    Anoche cenamos en el restaurante de abajo de nuestro departemento llamado Lardo. Comí un conejo con fideos muy ricos. Es mi carne favorita en el mundo. La salsa y la carne tenían el sabor exactamente como me gustan. Antes de comer los fideos, compartimos burrata con ciruelas con pan sin gluten. Sheryl no puede comer nada con gluten. El queso era exquisito – suave, sabroso, y rico. La combinación de queso y ciruela era perfecta – dulce, cremosa, y fresca.
    Hay muchos restaurantes y comida callejera cerca. Encontramos una tienda con pollo rostizado, frijoles, arroz, verduras en escabeche, tacos de cerdo, y más. El primer día, comí un churro con canela. Era crujiente, dulce, y no tan grasiento. Como dije, voy a engordar en este viaje.
    Hemos caminado horas y horas por las calles viendo tiendas, arte, murales, arboles, parques, arquitectura, y la gente. Siempre la gente. Aquí en La Condesa y en los barrios que hemos visitado, hay mexicanos que tienen mucho dinero o hay muchos turistas. Sheryl dijo que se parece a Recoleta, un barrio de Buenos Aires que habíamos visitado hace 10 años o más. Hemos visto algunos vagabundos en las calles, pero sólo dos o tres. Estoy seguro de que otros barrios tienen mucho más y muchos trabajadores sin los recursos que la gente tiene aquí.
    Nuestro departamento es muy cómodo. Tenemos dos cuartos, dos baños, una sala de estar, comedor, cocina, un cuarto de lavado, y una vista desde los dos balcones de del séptimo piso. Tiene seguridad en el vestíbulo y dos ascensores. Tiene todo lo que necesitamos. Nos hemos mudado totalmente. Todas nuestras cosas están en todas las habitaciones. Nos quedaremos aquí por ocho noches. Con todo lo que podemos hacer cerca de aquí, podríamos quadarnos muchos días más. Vamos a tener que volver a la ciudad otra vez.

    *******************

    Primero escribí esto en español y luego lo revisé en inglés y luego volví al español. Se puede ver en la traducción en inglés que se muestra a continuación que es un poco extraña. Eso es lo que obtienes con las aplicaciones de traducción....

    We are located in the neighborhood of La Condesa. We love it. Today there was a market directly in front of our apartment. We bought vegetables, fruit, and delicious tamales. Prices are more expensive than other neighborhoods, but three carrots cost five pesos — or nearly 80 cents. Six tamales, three chicken tamales, and three mole and chicken tamales cost 100 pesos (almost $6). And the people are very friendly. They are not very aggressive in the markets.
    Last night we had dinner at the restaurant below our apartment called Lardo. I ate very tasty rabbit with noodles. It's my favorite meat in the world. The sauce and meat tasted exactly the way I like it. Before eating the noodles, we shared burrata with plums with gluten-free bread. Sheryl can't eat anything with gluten. The cheese was exquisite – soft, flavorful, and rich. The combination of cheese and plum was perfect – sweet, creamy, and fresh.
    There are many restaurants and street food nearby. We found a store with rotisserie chicken, beans, rice, pickled vegetables, pork tacos, and more. On the first day, I had a churro with cinnamon. It was crunchy, sweet, and not so greasy. Like I said, I'm going to get fat on this trip.
    We have walked hours and hours on the streets seeing shops, art, murals, trees, parks, architecture, and people. Always the people. Here in La Condesa and the neighborhoods we've visited, there are Mexicans who have a lot of money or there are a lot of tourists. Sheryl said it looks like Recoleta, a neighborhood in Buenos Aires that we had visited 10 years ago or more. We have seen a few vagrants in the streets, but only two or three. I'm sure other neighborhoods have a lot more and a lot of workers without the resources that people have here.
    Our apartment is very comfortable. We have two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a living room, dining room, kitchen, a laundry room, and a view from the two seventh-floor balconies. It has security in the lobby and two elevators. It has everything we need. We have totally moved in. All of our stuff is in every room. We will stay here for eight nights. With all that we can do near here, we could stay many more days. We're going to have to come back.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • VoyageurMexico City, DC, & Family 2024
    Jour 16

    Day Three - Ciclovía and More

    28 avril, Mexique ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Ciclovia RecreActiva! CDMX. We picked up our Bici bikeshare bikes nearly right outside our door and hopped on the Plaza Reforma. This is a hugely wide street with sculptures, grand circles with fountains and statues. Everyone was out riding, running, taking exercise classes. It was super fun to be out on a bike in the middle of the city.

    For those of you who aren’t familiar with Ciclovia RecreActivas, cities all across Latin America close kilometres upon kilometres of major roadways for people to bike, walk, run, skate, exercise and generally get moving with their families and friends. Held every Sunday morning usually from around 7am to 2pm, cars seem to be nonplused by it all - it’s only a few hours on Sunday and you can still cross.

    Mexico City has done a great job putting in bike lanes and these median walkways/bikeways. Most provide a canopy of tree cover. Bici bikes are everywhere, and they look to be well maintained and well used. The bus system works pretty well too. It only costs $8 pesos or about 50 cents US (65 cents CDN). It can be a little tricky finding which bus services which stop, but people are generally quite nice and helpful.

    Along the route we encountered some interesting political posters and installations. It was 10 years ago that 43 Mexican students were kidnapped and killed although only three bodies have been found and identified. It is believed they were taken by the local police and drug cartels in collusion with the Mexican army. You can find posters with the students’ faces posted on walls and here in the middle of the major street we pedalled on. I heard about this when I was in Peru for the Ciclovia conference in 2015 or 2016 - I can’t remember. We also saw an installation about indigenous feminists.

    Along the route we wandered into a market with a couple dozen booths that had toys - most were superhero stuff - costumes and figurines. Now that is a big thing here. Lucha Libre, which is a part of Mexico’s rich cultural heritage, is the origin of professional wrestling, He wears an iconic mask and costume. Pretty fun. We also happened upon a very packed church with many followers waiting to get in to worship. Not sure what it was about.

    After a couple hours riding around, we went over to the big park nearby, Chapultepec, that houses the botanical garden and some museums. As we were walking over to the Modern Art Museum we saw these four men in traditional costumes, one playing a recorder and drum flying upside down on high in a circle! Yes. We googled it as there weren’t any explanations. The ritual is called the Danza de los Voladores (Dance of the Flyers). It is very old and is said to have been a plea to the gods during droughts. It was quite amazing.

    We didn’t feel like getting into the enormous Anthropology Museum so we opted for the more manageable Modern Art Museum there in the park. On Sundays many museums are free so that was good. I have to say, this museum was fantastic. Incredibly well laid out, excellent curation of pieces and wonderful stories they told. It was also a modest size so we could actually enjoy all five sections without getting overwhelmed.

    A good day.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • VoyageurMexico City, DC, & Family 2024
    21
    Jour 15

    Day Two - Yolanda and Ricardo

    27 avril, Mexique ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Yolanda and I met in Lima Peru for a conference on Ciclovías Recreactivas - Sunday Parkways, I think in 2012. At the time, she was one of the architects of Mexico City’s Ciclovias. And she was a blast! We maintained contact through FB over the years. In the last year we started having Zoom calls so Yolanda could practice her English and I could practice my Spanish.

    She graciously offered to take Sheryl and I out to the forest near her home for a hike. There we met Ricardo, her handsome and very interesting (in a good way) husband, and Navi, their friendly dog. (See my selfie with her). Navi is for Feliz Navidad - and she is one happy puppy. We were up about 3000 meters (or 9800 feet) at the Desierto de los Leones National Park. It is neither a desert nor home to lions. Desert is for how wild it is and Leones is for the former owner.

    This national park was the site of a former monastery where men would live solitary lives in their modest stone houses sparsely situated throughout the park. Those crazy Christians. Ricardo walks Navi up here nearly every day. It was a somewhat steep climb at times and the altitude didn’t help. We probably walked for about 3 hours.

    Ricardo’s English is very, very good and he and Sheryl talked all the way up and all the way down. Yolanda’s English isn’t as good but I know what she is saying. We mostly spoke in Spanish about a whole host of topics. I have to say, I was thrilled that my Spanish held up. Pablo, my Spanish teacher would be proud.

    After our hike, they took us to a very traditional Mexican lunch place where we ate tacos, and other tasty morsels. The flavours are soooo different from Mexican food you usually get in Victoria and even in Portland. Moles, salsas, mushrooms, beans, chicken and lamb on delicious corn tortillas.

    We went back to Yolanda and Ricardo’s beautiful home for some tea and more conversation. They live in what I would call a rural area. The inside was as charming as the outside. We ended up spending the entire day with them sitting out on their roofed patio. It was so wonderful. They participate in a poetry workshop with friends once a month as well as a movie group also once a month. It sounded delightful. I do hope they can get to Victoria to visit with us sometime soon.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • VoyageurMexico City, DC, & Family 2024
    2
    Jour 14

    Day One - Mexico City

    26 avril, Mexique ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Mercado de Medellin, Watling tour, around neighborhood, Lunch,

    We are staying in La Condesa, a somewhat posh (although not to most posh) area of Mexico City. We had it on good recommendation from our friends Dave and Eileen who have travelled here many times. We were not disappointed. The streets are just layered with big arching trees. The architecture of the buildings big and small is beautiful and creative. It performs like many a European city.

    We woke up nice and early for our first day. We had a guided walking tour scheduled for 11am so we wended our way through three or four lovely parks, visited the Mercado de Medellin, and took in some nice murals before reaching the meeting place. Unlike Victoria, Mexico City has a real dedication to making their buildings canvasses for art. When we met up with our group, we had already been walking around for three hours. My feet were already complaining.

    It is always a good idea to get a tour in early in one’s stay. Who knew that Mexico City was built on a filled-in lake - and consequently is sinking 1.5mm per year. Windows that had been above street level are now partly below grade. Yikes! We visited the oldest church and square in Mexico City. It was established in the 1500s in an area now called La Romita. We also visited a former horse track that was later turned into a circular or really oval drive. Located in the center of the city, it is remarkable quiet.

    By one o’clock, our group was starving. We stopped at a street vendor making green tortillas with this wonderful mushroom and cheese filling. Fabulous. At the final stop, we arrived at one of the parks we had already visited but all the kids, young adults, and older folks that had been doing exercises like boxing, skating, Pilates, and other recreational activities had already departed. And then the light rain came.

    We made our way back to the market to pick up some fruits and vegetables and groceries. It is fun to look at all the fresh items, but can’t really eat. The rules are no uncooked items unless they can be peeled. Too bad. I’m not willing to chance it though. You also can’t drink the tap water. We are avoiding ice too. Sigh.

    A good first day.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • VoyageurMexico City, DC, & Family 2024
    Jour 12

    Passover with Sheryl’s Family

    24 avril, États Unis ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I love the train. It is quiet, comfortable and quick. Sheryl and her mom, Jeanne, picked me up at 30th Street Station in Philadelphia on our way to Passover Seder at Fredda and Paul Pennock’s home. But first we stopped to visit the grave site of Jeanne’s parents, Pauline and David Levenberg, and Sheryl’s dad, Joseph Sackman. It always feels weird to me to see a headstone with a blank space. It feels rather menacing. It was a good thing to do. Sheryl’s mom can’t drive to visit - at 99, she doesn’t drive on highways or super busy streets anymore.

    Seders are often long, drawn out affairs with lots of stories, songs, and catching up with family we only see once a year. This year the ceremony was rather truncated. I’m not sure why but the sombreness of the Israeli hostages and the war in Gaza weighed heavy.

    Max, and his partner (whose name I can’t remember) drove down from Maine to visit with their 8-month-old (giant) baby. Sheryl and her mom got to spend some quality time with this bundle of cuteness. The brisket and turkey were delicious along with the twice baked potatoes. We sat at what would normally be described as the kid’s table (off to the side). Joining Sheryl, Jeanne and I were Ken and Jen. Ken is one of my other twin brother from another mother. He is a blast. Jen is the new grandma of the giant baby (I gotta pay more attention to names).

    The next couple days were spent at my MIL’s house hanging out, eating good bagels, and enjoying Jeanne’s company. We are planning her 100th birthday party either on her birthday in December or for next spring when the weather is better. It is remarkable that we can think about postponing a 100th birthday celebration as if there is no rush. Sheryl’s mom still works one day a week, lives alone, and spends more time chatting with friends than either Sheryl and I combined. She is impressive. As we left on Thursday morning, she was getting ready to plant some pansies and spread a bit of mulch in her garden.

    Well, we are off to Mexico City!    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • VoyageurMexico City, DC, & Family 2024
    2
    Jour 10

    Congressional Cemetery and Bay Street

    22 avril, États Unis ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I had an afternoon train so Bob got to tour me around the Congressional Cemetery. I have visited many times, but it had been a while. Along the way, we passed by the controversial statue of Abraham Lincoln with an emancipated slave. The positioning of Lincoln towering over a crouching slave is less than enlightened. In any case, it still stands.

    Because it was not feasible or practical to ship a body home for burial, the Congressional Cemetery hosts many former members of Congress who died while in DC. Here are the graves and memorial markers I noted (*notes people I knew when I lived in DC):
    Jim Graham* - Jim was an AIDS activist and ran the Gay Men’s Health Clinic when I lived in DC. In later years he successfully ran for City Council. https://www.washingtonpost.com/local/former-dc-…
    An accordion player - This woman had her graves stones carved into the shape of an accordion - Music is the Answer.
    A librarian - He “cataloged” himself creating a Library of Congress card catalog number and all other features one might find on a traditional library card - hole and all.
    John Phillip Sousa - famous band music writer.
    Northwest Native American totem arch - Not sure the story here, but it is beautiful.
    Marion Barry Jr.* - The quote from Maya Angelou etched on his grave reads, “Marion Barry changed America with his unmitigated gall to stand up to the ashes of where he had fallen and came back to win…”
    Leonard Matlovich* - He was one of the early contractors of AIDS and died in 1988. His stone reads, “When I was in the military they gave me a metal for killing two men and a discharge for loving one.” During my time in DC so many of my fellow gay and lesbian activists died of AIDS. It was a scary time. I never did count the number of men and women who I worked with or volunteered with who died of AIDS but it was a lot.
    Frank Kameny* - His is only a memorial grave marker as it is unclear where his was laid to rest. He is located in what Bob would call, “The Gay Neighbourhood” in the cemetery. His famous quote is “Gay is Good”.
    Clyde Anderson Towson - is buried about 10 grave sites over from his lover, FBI Director, J. Edgar Hoover. Yes. That’s what made him (Hoover) so damn angry and mean.
    Barbara Gittings and her partner Kay Lahusen - are buried in the gay neighbourhood. Gittings organized the Daughters of Bilitis in 1958 and was one of the picketers at the White House in 1965.
    Bob Dardano* - future resting place is just next to Gittings and Lahusen and other gay activist. His spots sits at the base of a beautiful cherry blossom tree. He’ll be covered with pink petals every spring. Hopefully no time soon.
    Tom Foley - former Speaker of the House has an infinity sculpture in steel. One of a kind.
    Alain Locke - First African-American Rhodes Scholar
    Warren Robbins - Founder of the National Museum of African Art located on the Mall.

    Lastly, I went over to my old house at 1828 Bay Street. I purchased that house for $75,000 back in 1986 when I was 26 years old. Cathy, my former partner, and I had the small kitchen completely gutted and redone. I scrapped five layers of wallpaper off the living and dining room walls to discover that the corners where the walls met had never been sealed - only papered over. We put a lot of sweat equity in that three-bedroom, one bath house. It looked nice and well maintained.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction

Rejoignez-nous:

FindPenguins pour iOSFindPenguins pour Android