Croatia
Primorsko-Goranska Županija

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  • Day126

    Pazin & Novi Vinodolski car park

    October 30, 2016 in Croatia

    Going to the restaurant with the sole intent of paying up for our stay, we finally managed to hand over the 150 kuna we owed, before filling up, emptying and starting out.

    Pazin gorge is said to have prompted Dante's description of the gateway to Hell in his Inferno. The castle, teetering on the edge of the sheer drop into the chasm, is said to be that which Jules Verne's character Matthias Sandorf jumped from and swam along the subterranean river to the coast. While this fictional feat wouldn't be possible, we could certainly see why the gorge inspired such dramatic descriptions. It was difficult to make clear the scale in the photographs, but it was huge. We'd visited with the intent of walking down and through the gorge but unfortunately the trail was closed because frequent flooding had washed away some of the path and bridge. There was however a walk down to a viewpoint from where you could see through the trees to where the river disappeared underground with the limestone cave arching over it.

    There are a lot of homes in Croatia with beautiful looking facades but Vicky has fallen in love with the ones that look slightly neglected and the abandoned ones, of which there are many.

    Returning to the van, we saw people taking a lot of interest in it. Just as we were pulling away, Vicky looked in the wing mirror and was left speechless at the sight of a 10cm spider perched on top. After seeing that huge worm and Will having told her that morning about semi-transparent scorpian like creatures in the toilet emptying hole, she fully believed the spider was real. Upon closer inspection however, it turned out to be a plastic one some joker had placed on there. If they were watching for a reaction they wouldn't have been disappointed!

    Leaving the region of Istria and entering the Kvarner Gulf to head south along the coast, the road climbed and climbed. It wound its way up through beautiful beech woodlands, their copper and yellow leaves aglow in the afternoon sunlight. As our route reached its highest point on Mount Ucka, more than 1000m up, we crested the ridge and through the trees the wide expanse of the Adriatic and its spread of islands was revealed to us. It was a stunning sight.

    The city of Rijeka took over the largest cove, its white buildings spreading out far in all directions. Passing through and escaping the concentrated urban atmosphere we started on the coast road we plan to follow to the southern tip of Croatia. The bright blue sea, islands and coves, many with terracotta topped towns nestled in them were an amazing sight. We found a gravel car park to stop in overnight and photographed the sun setting over the Krk island.
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  • Day29

    Arrived in Croatia at the Adriatic Sea

    September 24, 2016 in Croatia

    Deutsche Version auf www.cyclingfornepal.com

    Six days ago, I started my journey alone again. My next big goal was Trieste/Italy on the Mediterranean Sea. First I wanted to make a few kilometers and had decided on a route with less uphills. So it took me about 600 km and 4000 meters of climbing to get to Rijeka/Croatia. My path went to Switzerland, back to Austria and several days through Italy. During my trip through Italy I cracked the 1000 km mark since my start in Munich. Yeah!

    At the Italian city of Trieste, which lies on the border to Slovenia, I visited a campground for the first time. There were also two cyclists from England and Lukas from Germany, who has hiked in 1.5 months the Alp Adria Trail. After the days where I was traveling alone, talking to somebody felt pretty good.

    When I camped in the outback, I found super nice places and it was no problem at all. Only in one night I had lain down without my sleeping bag in a park. Half asleep, I heard the collar of a dog strum. I straightened up and a Husky was 10 meters away from me. At first, we both did not know who was afraid of whom. But the Husky turned out to be very peaceful.

    Yesterday I set out in the pouring rain in Trieste/ Italy. Before me were laying 60 km through Slovenia and remaining 20 km to the Mediterranean in Croatia. My mood was good until I changed money at the Croatian border and the total mishap happened. I had forgotten to close my handlebar bag with all my electronics and after a short storm, the bag was completely under water. Fortunately, everything is still working.

     Now I am at a campsite right by the sea. Unfortunately the weather is rainy and the prognosis is not better.

    Today, I will only take a short stage and again consult a campsite to plan my further directions.

    So far, my trip is great fun and it runs just as I imagine it. Only the feeling not seeing my family and friends, is still in my mind.

     Cheers Janosch
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  • Day2

    Leaving Venice, drove through small villages and some interstate. Roads were pretty narrow through some of these towns - didn’t faze Jan, our bus driver. We were rocking and rolling the whole way. Of course, a super blustery day with heavy storm clouds contributed to the van shaking around just a bit. We did almost run head into another vehicle at an intersection on a curve - that was a close one! Some of the group is staying at one hotel and we are staying at an older historic hotel in the city center, built in 1906. Gate1 has a lot of trips running out of here, as they seem to have everywhere.

    Got to the hotel about 5 and have about 2 1/2 hours before meeting with the other members of the group. Tried to take a nap, but too wired. Janet got an email from the guy on the plane who worked for the CDC and was now heading for Uganda for the next 3-5 years. Janet had given him her business card and later he gave us one of his - really nice of him to touch base. That rarely happens with a seat mate on a plane. Have only been up for about 30+ hours now. Meeting and then we’re getting dinner as well and then we should be totally wiped out!

    Seems like a good group - director went over the program. Met a couple of nice ladies (Sara and Mignon). Went upstairs for a big buffet which was quite good actually and had dinner with a nice couple from Kansas City who had traveled extensively. We decided to go out for a stroll in super windy, rainy conditions, although the temps were around 65. A few pictures are attached. Wish we had more time. Tomorrow we are off for Istrian Peninsula and Pula and Rovinj.

    A short blurb from Rick Steves on Opatija:

    And just outside of the peninsula is Opatija (oh-PAH-tee-yah). It's on the water, but it's not your typical Croatian beach town. In the late-19th-century golden age of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, this unassuming village was transformed into the Eastern Riviera, one of the swankiest resorts on the Mediterranean. While the French, British, and German aristocracy sunbathed on France's Côte d'Azur, the wealthy elite from the eastern half of Europe — the Habsburg Empire and Russia — partied in Opatija.
    While the Habsburgs and Russians are long gone, Opatija retains the trappings of its genteel past. Most of Croatia evokes a more ancient Mediterranean, but Opatija whispers "belle époque." With its welcoming and elegant promenade, it may be the classiest resort town in Croatia, with more taste and less fixation on postcards and seashells. ©Rick Steves

    And on Rovinj:

    While the Istrian Peninsula has many tacky and forgettable resort towns, the seafront port of Rovinj — like a little Venice on a hill — is one of my favorite small towns on the Mediterranean.

    Rising dramatically from the Adriatic as though being pulled up to heaven by its grand bell tower, there's something particularly romantic about Rovinj (roh-VEEN). Some locals credit the especially strong Venetian influence here — it's the most Italian town in Croatia's most Italian region. Rovinj's streets are delightfully twisty, its ancient houses are characteristically crumbling, and its harbor still hosts a real fishing industry. ©Rick Steves
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  • Day4

    Insel Krk

    August 21 in Croatia

    Nach dem Aufenthalt in Pula sehnen wir uns nach noch mehr Meer. 🏝 Daher gehts weiter Richtung Süden zur Insel Krk. Krk ist eine grosse kroatische Insel in der nördlichen Adria. Sie ist mit einer langen Brücke mit dem Festland verbunden. Auf der Insel leben rund 18'000 Menschen. In der Hauptsaison sind es über 100'000! Das merken wir auch auf dem Camping, trotzdem haben wir noch den letzten Platz ergattert. Im kristallklaren Wasser können wir uns abkühlen und an den Kiestränden sonnen. ☀ Natürlich halten wir uns auch während unseren Ferien fit und spielen fleissig Federball 🏸. Ist im Wasser jedoch gar nicht so einfach. Unsere Weiterreise geht entlang der Küstenstrassen Kroatiens. Später fahren wir über "Passstrassen" ins Landesinnere 🇭🇷.Read more

  • Day8

    Hum: The Smallest Town in the World

    August 10, 2017 in Croatia

    Randy got a Croatian welcome as we left the ship for our tour. Hum dates back to 10th century and today has a population of 30 residents.

    After walking the entire town (it took 20 minutes) we went to the only restaurant. We sampled local cheeses, wines👎, and a brandy made from mistletoe which was similar to grappa.Read more

  • Day51

    Risika, Kroatien

    October 31 in Croatia

    Unser nächstes Ziel sollte die Insel Krk darstellen. Dafür passierten wir zunächst den Nationalpark Ucka, entschieden uns aber gegen eine Wanderung auf den nahegelenen Berg, da Leni leider noch immer von Halsschmerzen und Plätte geplagt war. Deshalb ging es nach einem kurzen Halt auch schon weiter. Von der Straße aus, welche an den Klippen entlang führte sahen wir eine beeindruckende Burg und fuhren deshalb kurzerhand in Rijeka ab um die Trsatska Gradina zu besichtigen, die ein hübsches Burgcafé beherbergt.

    Über eine gebührenpflichtige Brücke ging es dann auf die Insel Krk. Drüben angekommen wollten wir erstmal einen Plan schmieden wohin es nun gehen sollte und Leni fragte wo denn die tollen Wasserfälle wären. Schnell fiel uns auf, dass unser eigentliches Ziel Krka sein sollte - Ups! Nunja da die Maut bereits bezahlt war, ließen wir uns somit auf die Insel Krk ein. Wir besichtigten dabei den Ort Krk und fuhren dann weiter nach Baska.

    Vom Ort aus konnten wir zu einer Burg/ Kirche empor steigen von wo aus wir einen tollen Blick auf den Ort, das Meer und die Bucht hatten. Da am nächsten Tag Allerheiligen war, war auch der Bergfriedhof über und über mit Blumen geschmückt was uns auch an anderen Friedhöfen bereits aufgefallen war. Unsere Übernachtungsstätte sollte in Risika, einem Ort weiter nordöstlich sein. Da wir leider erst im Dunkeln dort ankamen, konnten wir den idyllischen Ort direkt am Strand deshalb erst am nächsten Morgen genießen.
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  • Day27

    Ljubljana

    May 6 in Croatia

    Not entirely sure how I feel about this city, it is certainly the smallest capital I have ever been to. Today is flea market day along the side of the river Ljubljanka. There are plenty of statues of Christ on the cross, just in case you are down to your last one, and a great collection of up to date vinyl LP records, mostly British bands and artists but everything from Metallica to Samantha Fox. It is a real cafe society here and all the streets along the river are full of people having breakfast, coffee and cigarettes. The city itself has its moments in a kind of shabby chic sort of way, there are certainly plenty of photographers here who think so. I stop at a roadside cafe, as it is the only place not full of smokers, and order a local style meal of beef sausages and pancakes, a couple of beers help it go along. A tour guide with her pack of tourists pull up along side and the guide starts explaining the menu to them and gesturing to me by way of example, she is talking in Slovenian and I think roughly what she is saying is "look at stupid British tourist eating sausages made from dog food" or thereabouts.Everone laughs and moves on(they don't order any food).
    I don't want to put in too many gripes in the blog, but this is the most I have had to pay for a Vignette, a local road toll, 30 euro for seven days, and because of its location I may have to cross Slovenia more than twice, oh and 2.50 euro per person per night tourist tax, do they not realise that tourists are visiting of their own free will to spend money in their shabby chic city.
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  • Day31

    Selce, Croatia

    May 10 in Croatia

    GPS threw a wobbly on me whilst trying to find a site in Crikvenica, and as I was struggling to find a place to stop and reset, I kept going along the coast as I recognised another name on the street signs. These coastal towns, be they Italy France Spain etc all seem to have at one time to have slid down their respective hills untill they are all bunched up beside the sea, along with their roads that get squished into single lane one way streets. Europeans are of course masters in the use of the hazard warning light which overrides all rules of the road and indeed common sense, as used by the driver in front of me who uses it at a junction on a pedestrian crossing on a one way street, classic.I'll just wait till you get your messages shall I? Already witnessed a classic piece of Croatian driving today when an impatient driver overtook me on a winding mountain road only to immediately indicate he is turning once in front of me, but the trump card(s) go to the two motorcycles overtaking him as he overtook me. My stomach is already in my mouth looking down at the sheer drop to the sea. Still all is forgiven arriving at the camp, it lived up to it's reputation, it is beautiful.Read more

  • Day32

    Selce day 2 by

    May 11 in Croatia

    Didn't see a lot of this town, I was asked to lend a hand (or battery in this case) to a fellow driver in need, we had a couple of beers during the course of the attempted repair (professional required), however this turned into drinks, then dinner which turned into 2am. Next day Stephen and Beth and neighbours showed me a bit of the town, including a large house, once planned to be a restaurant before the unpleasantness between Serbians, Bosnians etc(sorry but don't understand what really happened or how it came about) anyway this neighbour returned after things began to return to normal, to find their property had been occupied and trashed.The husband was heartbroken, fell into a depression and subsequently died, and the wife has neither energy nor money to rebuild, and so this house remains a lingering derelict and sad reminder of terrible times. In the spirit of Irony Stephen shows me a run down property near to the main Street, which just happens to be the former headquarters of the Communist party when they were having a go at Croatia, or whatever they called it. If ever there was a time for a coffee break this is it.Read more

You might also know this place by the following names:

Primorsko-Goranska Županija, Primorsko-Goranska Zupanija, Primorje - Gorski Kotar, Litoraneo-Montana, 프리모례고르스키코타르 주, Primorje-Gorski kotar

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