Day'n'NightFebruary 23 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C
20.000 lumen should be enough for Northern Denmark.
20.000 lumen should be enough for Northern Denmark.
A sea breeze is blowing through the open windows as we gaze out at the gentle waves rippling into the narrow sandy beach. Martha Motorhome is parked right on the edge of a strip of coarse, dried out grass, just a step away from the stones and shells. Will has hauled Little Green, our canoe, up onto the shore after a short fishing foray in her.
The bay we are parked overlooking, as we sip our cuppas, is Amtoft Vig, part of the vast Limfjord network that splits North Jutland from Central Jutland. We spotted it on our way to a camping shop further up the road that had a campsite and stellplätz attached to it. The shop seemed to have closed down so we returned here, to the quiet pull-in, big enough for about 20 cars. A triangular white flag flutters at the top of its pole, displaying the blue swimming symbol with 3 stars. A wooden jetty extends 50m to waist deep in the water and a couple of metal ladders provide access for bathing. Needless to say Will made use of this! Light grey clouds have almost covered the sky, leaving only a few patches of blue. After yesterday's scorching heat we are thankfull of the shade they bring with them.
We'd not made a decision about how long to stay, but Vicky needed rest and this place was both quiet and beautiful so we lingered a second night. On the drive here the red warning light on Martha's dashboard had suddenly begun to flash insistently, telling us she needed oil. Will had a look on maps.me and found a garage 2.6km away. It was a warm day, if a little blustery, so he took the tandem, bought a litre and emptied it onto the oil reservoir. Hopefully this will placate her! Vicky started a new crochet project while Will gave the rest of the day over to fishing, reading, swimming, playing his flute, downloading sat nav updates and making Vicky a delicious vegetable omlette and salad for tea, then washing up afterwards. He's a goodun!Read more
It is late afternoon and 35°C in the sun, on this still, blue sky day. Luckily we have found shade under a bank of mature Alders in the free 5 place motorhome parking area on the edge of Thisted.
Thisted is a medium sized town that sits on the shore of Thistead Bredning. Bredning roughly translates as 'broads' and this body of water is certainly broad. It is part of a series of sea lakes that stretch out from pinch points, into large open bodies of water, making up the Limfjord canal that cuts mainland Jutland off from the North Jutlandic Island.
Our windows and doors are open in an attempt to keep the van cool, but this makes it quite noisy, because we aren't too far from the main road. Over this road is Thisted Søbad (seaside resort), a free area with toilets, indoor showers, grass, a shingle beach and a couple of wooden jetties with steps into the water.
We've just come back from there, after a good swim and a lay out on our towels. Will went earlier and returned later than Vicky, taking his snorkle gear with him and having several swims to her one). There were a number of crabs scuttling along the sea floor (and over our toes), but thankfully Will only spotted a few small jellyfish and Vicky didn't see any. We are still marvelling at what a wonderful resource this is. The Danes pay high taxes but its no wonder they are one of the happiest nations on earth!
Talking about things that make one happy, we'd popped into Aldi on the way here and picked up a couple of traditional Danish Tebirke pastries. The best way to describe them is a pain au chocolate without chocolate, but stuffed and cooked with marzipan and topped with poppy seeds. Vicky really liked the pastry and marzipan but wasn't sure about the seeds, Will liked the whole package.
The heat was such that we kept the windows and door open until late. We are used to traffic noise, but it did seem particularly loud here. We watched as people cycled, jogged and strolled along the promenade. Among them were some non-white faces and it made us think. Having lived near Dudley in the West Midlands, we are used to a multi-ethnic society, but this has changed in the 2 years we've been on the road. The term 'white van man' rings true in a different sense, as meeting a BAME individual or family in a van, is as rare as meeting a solo female traveller. We hardly ever stay in cities, preferring the peace and quiet of countryside life most of the time, but as a consequence we move through populations with massively high proportions of caucasian people. It is ironic that in our quest to immerse ourselves in different cultures, we are spending our time amongst people whose appearance is far more like our own, than had we stayed put in Dudley!
Come morning we drove a short distance to a large gravel car park adjacent to the bay and a short walk from Thisted highstreet. Vicky had been browsing Trip Advisor and spotted 'Fiskehuset Thisted' a fishmonger come delicatessen come restaurant on the harbourside. They had their own smokehouse and a good range of organic certified fish. The reviews rated it highly, so we tracked it down and bought a delicious looking smoked mackerel to take away for our lunch. We then had a brief but unsuccessful trawl of the highstreet in search of replacement guitar strings for Will and wool and toy stuffing for Vicky. We did however buy a wooden washing up brush in an attempt to cut down on plastic!Read more
It's been a scorcher today! After a series of short hops, with the air con on to keep Poppy cool, we are eventually settled in the shade of some tall hedges in a roadside picnic area near Vesløs.
The day began by picking up groceries in Thisted where we'd spent the previous night. The motorhome parking area there had a limit of 24 hours but the road noise meant we would have moved on anyway.
After leaving Thisted we entered Thy National Park. When we were in sight of Vandet Sø, a large lake, we followed a single track gravel road between fields of barley and wheat, through a large farmyard, to a grassy area in the forest. This was one of the many 'camp grounds' provided free of charge for people walking or cycling. It had a wooden sleeping hut, a seperate wooden compost toilet, fire pit with cooking grill and picnic benches. Unfortunately there wasn't much shade, nor easy access to the water so we retraced our steps, then skirted round the lake to a car park, where we put the awning out to shade one side of the van and ate lunch. Just over the road was yet another wild swimming facility. A well maintained boardwalk took us over 100m or so of reed bed to Vandet Sø, where we climbed down a few steps into ankle deep water. This area of the lake was extremely shallow. We waded out a long way over the sandy bed, but were still only up to our knees. It was difficult to swim properly but we enjoyed bobbing about and cooling off. A number of people were doing the same, while others played on Stand Up Paddle boards and even brought small learner windsurfers down to the shore. We'd both windsurfed on this lake a number of years back but that was from the other side. We didn't need towels when we stepped out; the air was so warm that we were dry by the time we got back to the van.
Moving on from this car park, we didn't go far before pulling in at a forest layby under the shade of trees. Vicky opened all the windows and door to get some breeze through, grateful of the fly screens keeping the little beasties out. She sat with Poppy while Will walked half a kilometre to Vandet Sø for yet another swim! We would have been quite happy to stay the night here, but it was within the boundary of Thy National Park, where sleeping in a van is not allowed.
Next stop was a 'Circle K' petrol station that provided free van facilities. We'd encountered a lot of Circle Ks in Sweden and Norway and gratefully set about filling the water tank and emptying waste, giving the grey water tank a flush through in an attempt to stop the pong brought about by the hot weather. We were happy to buy 560kr (£70) of diesel to be able to do this.
We'd hoped to stay at a car park overlooking the docks at Hanstholm on the coast, but approaching the busy site, we could see there was no shade and more importantly, as we got closer, we saw the prohibition signs for overnight stays.
Thankfully our next planned stopover, a layby picnic area, had no such signs. We were able to find shade on a grass pitch with thick, tall hedges on two sides. The layby gave access to a walking and cycle track and a wooden bird watching tower (the fugletårnet), looking out over Tømmerby Fjord, a freshwater lake. Will took the binoculars and telescope up for half an hour, seeing Herons, Lapwings and Great White Egrets among others. Soon after he returned, fluffy white clouds began to appear. Quickly the whole sky became covered and the colour changed to an intense grey, accompanied by a long rumble of thunder. We waited expectantly and sure enough, soon heard a pitter patter on our roof. There was even a double rainbow but the downpour never came. The raindrops were of a decent size, but as with many mechanisms that have fallen into disuse, it seemed to try to rain, then give up.
The road was quiet enough not to disturb us overnight, but as the clock struck 7:30am, workers fired up petrol hedge trimmers, strimmers and mowers, working their way around the van. Oh well, having stayed here for free, we can't complain.Read more
Ein kleines Stück die Welt verbessern.
Wir haben die Nacht auf dem Campingplatz in Krik Vig verbracht und sind direkt nach dem Aufstehen dort aufs Wasser gegangen.
Im Anschluss sind wir nach Klitmøller gefahren, aber wir waren nicht mehr fit genug um noch einmal kiten zu gehen und haben uns stattdessen das Geschehen mit Softeis und Pommes angesehen.Read more
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