• Brunico

    6 août 2023, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Day 58:
    Distance: 35.20 km (1,844.49 km)
    Steps: 50,640 (2,632,232)
    Move time: 8h06 (410h50)
    Spend: £17.70 (£943.19)

    🇮🇹 Mezzaselva to Brunico. 🇮🇹

    Shattered. Another monster day, and without functioning shoes at that. I'm in dire need of new footwear, as the current Merrells leave my feet in a state of raw shreds pretty much every time I put them on now. In fact, I just couldn't wear them today. It was that bad. Instead, I had no choice but to wear my aquashoes, which instead cause shooting pains up my shins when treading asphalt, due to the lack of cushioning (I'll make a video explaining tomorrow). The walking today was honestly a bit of a chore, following the valley cycle path. It is what it is, and frankly, it had to be done, especially as it's not like I could buy new boots when everything is closed on a Sunday. Tonight, I'm staying at Adam's house, a very friendly fellow who does a lot of leading with the Scouts, and has shown me to an nice spot to camp in the garden.En savoir plus

  • Mezzaselva

    5 août 2023, Italie ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Day 57:
    Distance: 36.02 km (1,809.29 km)
    Steps: 51,132 (2,581,592)
    Move time: 7h54 (402h44)
    Spend: £17.68 (£925.49)

    🇦🇹 Gries am Brenner to Mezzaselva. 🇮🇹

    Mamma mia, itsa country number 7! 🤌🤌 Staying in an airbnb last night was a glorious decision, especially when served with as an almighty breakfast feast as provided for me at Nößlachhütte; fried eggs, fruits, meat, yoghurt! I don't think I've eaten that good since my boy Charlie served up steak. In fact, just eating it took so long that I only set off in time to reach the Italian border after midday. That part of the journey itself was an ordeal, what with having to march along fast, hostile roads; in conclusion, the Brenner Pass is not built to be walked, at least not on the Austrian side. At least a cycle path returned over in Italian territory, but once again, it wasn't plain sailing. In fact, I might have a bit of a predicament on my hands (or feet) here, with my boots causing real issues to my feet to the point that I ended up walking the final 10 km + wearing a boot only on one foot to ease the pain on the other. No doom and gloom from me, though (even if the weather doesn't agree), ecstatic to still be kicking. We really out here crossing a continent at 2.5 mph!En savoir plus

  • Gries am Brenner

    4 août 2023, Autriche ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Day 56:
    Distance: 34.64 km (1,773.27 km)
    Steps: 48,594 (2,530,460)
    Move time: 7h27 (394h50)
    Spend: £39.19 (£907.81)

    🇦🇹 Innsbruck to Gries am Brenner. 🇦🇹

    Can't quite describe how, but it feels like everything has been pure chaos lately. And chaos is a very fitting word for the Brenner pass, with autobahns, A-roads, trainlines, cycles paths, and walking routes all spewing through this one valley leading into Italy. Not much of note to say today otherwise; tarmac was definitely dish of the day, and my shins feel like they might've overeaten so to speak. Talking of eating, I found myself chomping on an entire strudel straight out the packet for a large chunk of the day (as if I already didn't look ridiculous enough in my blindingly orange shirt, khaki waterproof trousers and decathlon aquashoes while I waited for my boots to dry). Oh, and how about this view from Austrian McDonalds btw.

    Thanks for all the interest being shown lately btw, honestly makes my day:)
    En savoir plus

  • Innsbruck

    3 août 2023, Autriche ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Day 55:
    Distance: 31.20 km (1,738.63 km)
    Steps: 43,993 (2,481,866)
    Move time: 6h45 (387h23)
    Spend: £25.91 (£868.62)

    🇦🇹 Schwaz to Innsbruck. 🇦🇹

    Having been kept awake for most of the night by the sound of the unrelenting batter of rainfall against the tent, I caught a bus back to where I last left off, and it was very much back to trampling Earth again. With the cling of the clouds seen from the base of a built-up valley, the views might've taken a dip from a few days ago, but my tarmac gilded route by the autobahn was at least entertained by being interviewed by a journalist from BBC News Points West, so hey that's cool. I actually visited Innsbruck before, a whole 4 years ago now, during an interrailing trip. It's a very pretty city under some chunky peaks, and the me of then would never have seen it coming that I'd one day walk here, coming down from said mountains myself. Anyway, I must again thank a friendly German: Thomas; for being willing to help me at such short notice. He's a true gent, and his passion for the particular burns as bright for his fascination for Fermat's last theorem. He even studied Chemistry while living in Bath back in the day, believe it or not!En savoir plus

  • Wiesing

    2 août 2023, Autriche ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Day 53 & 54: (both rest days)
    Distance: 7.84 km (1,707.43 km)
    Steps: 11,912 (2,437,873)
    Move time: 2h36 (380h38)
    Spend: £25.22 (£842.71)

    It's been a funny couple of days. It feels like I've walked myself into a corner somewhat. The original idea was to shoot down the valley into Mayrhofen, potentially being able to take a rest day to see Krimml falls, and then to pass into Italy via the mountains at Pfiterschjoch. But a number of factors have thrown up complications since that plan, such as severe weather warnings, poor condition of my feet, and lack of availability at crucial mountain huts to name but a few. Instead, progression has ground to a halt a bit while I sort myself out, and assess the options of how best to proceed. As I see it, there are only a few possibilities from here; firstly, waiting out the weather and availability and just continuing as originally planned. The problem with this is that I could very likely be waiting a long time. Two; keep heading east. The problem with this is that, at some point, I need to move south, too, and the mountains only get bigger and much more Grossglockner-y. Three; go back on myself, moving back west into Innsbruck and onto Italy in the safest way given the weather, via the Brenner pass. Now, this isn't without its inconveniences either: having to head back west and missing some of what might've been great scenery. Ultimately though, I think it's important to keep moving, and given the fact that I have basically no idea what I'm doing anyway (I've never done hut to hut hiking in the Alps previously), it's difficult to assess the dangers of high passes when there are severe weather warnings due in. So maybe it's the boring option, but at least it's the most sensible one. Anyway, at least I've finally done some actual relaxing the past couple of days, my first time walking fewer than 5 km in a day in 2 months!En savoir plus

  • Jenbach

    31 juillet 2023, Autriche ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Day 52:
    Distance: 32.03 km (1,699.59 km)
    Steps: 45,266 (2,425,961)
    Move time: 7h07 (378h02)
    Spend: £35.07 (£817.49)

    🇦🇹 Falkenhütte to Jenbach. 🇦🇹

    A day of such high highs, and such low lows, and roughly correlating with altitude. The view from the mountain hut dormitory this morning was unbelievably beautiful, and despite probably being the last person to set off for the day out of laziness, I made the arduous ascent up to Lamsenjochhütte in good time, while soaking in the absolute glory of the serene mountain scenery. At the hut, I even stopped to allow myself a beer: a wise decision before taking on the 1,500 metre descent slightly tipsy. These Alps and Austria have already been such a huge highlight, though. It was only when I stopped for a break nearing the valley floor that the euphoria wore off, and upon taking off my boots, I saw the damage done to my feet. My toes red raw and feet agonisingly sore, I could barely shuffle any further. Luckily, I just about made it to Jenbach through gritted teeth, where I managed to catch a bus a kilometre or two onto this campsite in Wiesing. I'm not usually one to believe in fate or the alike, but sometimes I think that if you need something badly enough, it'll find you in your hour of need. So low and behold, I unknowingly arrived here at 18:27, before reception closed at 18:30, and they found me a small corner to pitch my tent for some desperately needed rest. Tomorrow will also likely be a rest day.En savoir plus

  • Falkenhütte

    30 juillet 2023, Autriche ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Day 51:
    Distance: 39.01 km (1,667.56 km)
    Steps: 56,163 (2,380,695)
    Move time: 9h03 (370h55)
    Spend: £13.16 (£782.42)

    🇩🇪 Klais to Falkenhütte. 🇦🇹

    Following my night crammed into a shelter of a children's playpark, I made up the distance lost to yesterday's storms in the early stillness of the German Sunday morning. When I crossed over the border at Scharnitz, I hope for a giant 'Welcome to Austria!' sign or something, but no; for some reason, those just don't seem to exist other than for drivers on the motorway, sadly. But hey, country number 6! I had a little celebration with me, myself, and a bottle of exotic alcohol bought yesterday from some German supermarket (yes, even at 9 am!). And with the call of Austria came the call of the Via Alpina, which is a vast hiking megaroute traversing the Alps all the way from Monaco to Trieste (near Croatia). Now, obviously, I won't be walking all of that, but to enjoy the towering Austrian scenery, a few stages here and there certainly won't go amiss, even with the troublesome waves of rain that persisted today. These mountains are known as the Karwendel mountains, and they are simply beautiful; I mean, when the lingering mist eventually dispersed, the enchanting Laliderer wall came into full view, dominating over the deep valley.En savoir plus

  • Klais

    29 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Day 50:
    Distance: 25.25 km (1,628.55 km)
    Steps: 35,725 (2,324,532)
    Move time: 5h46 (361h52)
    Spend: £20.30 (£769.26)

    🇩🇪 Garmisch-Partenkirchen to Klais. 🇩🇪

    The distance won't look very impressive on the map today. But then again, success isn't always measured in miles trodden (even if I finally clocked in my first thousand). In fact, it's hard to really say what success means for a mission like this. To me, it comes back to asking myself the meaning of happiness and fulfilment; and I think part of that is overcoming the challenges that befall you any day. Sometimes, it can just be not throwing in the hat. So, while today should've been my final in Germany, I also think, hey, who cares; I'll still end up where I intend to tomorrow night. To explain more, essentially, the heavens opened with full vigour this afternoon, pelting down torrents of rain that'd leave you gasping for air. The type that, if subjected to up the wrong mountain, you'd probably be thankful to get out with your life intact. The next couple of weeks could be a real challenge on that note, with more juicy storms due in for as far as the forecast even extends. My situation is as follows: I find myself in the Alps during peak season, entering an expensive, touristy country with strict enforced anti-wild camping laws, the worst possible weather, not a single plan, and yet the only place to go is upwards, at the very least via some mountain pass. Whatever happens, it's sure to be interesting. Let's rewind a bit though. This morning was a delight to be able to eat breakfast with Chris and his family, for which it's hard to express my thanks for the authenticity and enjoyment it adds to my journey to be able to share with people as great as those which I’ve met in Germany. Leaving my rucksack behind to start the day, the photos you see are mostly from my detour to the drama of Partnachklamm, itself truly an exhibit of art in nature, spewing and spraying its carved passage through a deep ravine. My writing is dragging on a bit here, but following that, I then endeavoured on something of a wild goose chase to find some more gas for my jetboil (which has actually been without fuel for about 2 weeks straight somehow, literally I don't even know what I've been eating), and now I'm seeing out the night and the downpour hidden in a shelter in a children's playpark lol.En savoir plus

  • Garmisch-Partenkirchen

    28 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Day 49:
    Distance: 30.62 km (1,603.30 km)
    Steps: 43,598 (2,288,807)
    Move time: 6h50 (356h05)
    Spend: £14.60 (£748.96)

    🇩🇪 Brunnenkopfhütte to Garmisch-Partenkirchen. 🇩🇪

    Wow, so much to say about today. I made the steep descent from Brunnenkopfhütte straight back into Linderhof, where I decided to join the other tourists in nosying around King Ludwig's Palace, with its gold gilded rooms exuding opulence; every furnishing adorned with intricate carvings, and lush gardens framed by gentle cascades trickling down the mountainside. Maybe it was just my dismay at having to hear other native English speakers again on the tour, but I don't know how you could ever admire someone like that, someone whose image is so shallow and desires clearly so material, and almost undoubtedly at the detriment to pretty much everyone else around them too. Regardless, I got back stomping for the day, this time back to the foot of the mountains on my way into Garmisch-Partenkirchen. And turning into this valley, oh my. A vast vista unfolded before my eyes, with Zugspitze standing in silent grandeur, exposing its crisp, sheer limestone walls. The alpine backdrop only grew on my approach, too, revealing the *big* Alps of Austria, provoking as much intrigue as they do intimidation. But finally, upon my arrival, I've been fortunate enough to stay with Chris, a top top guy who's lived such an interesting life. He's lived in Germany, Burundi, Pakistan, Botswana; he once even took public transport from Munich to India, but most importantly, he's unbelievably kind and he helped me when he really didn't have to. The help I've received all throughout Germany has honestly been incredible, and I couldn't be more grateful for these experiences.En savoir plus

  • Brunnenkopfhütte

    27 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Day 48:
    Distance: 39.37 km (1,572.68 km)
    Steps: 56,682 (2,245,209)
    Move time: 9h29 (349h15)
    Spend: £7.02 (£734.36)
    (↗️ 2,677m; ↘️ 1,892m)

    🇩🇪 Füssen to Brunnenkopfhütte. 🇩🇪

    I fed the calves good and proper with over 4,500 metres of elevation change and almost 40 kilometres of pure alpine trekking today. I don’t even know what else to say, I'm just lucky to have been able to have reached here. It's so beautiful and serene. Another bonus is that after having been a member of Bath Uni Mountaineering Club, I am technically already a member of the British Mountaineering Council, which has already hugely helped in saving money when staying in this mountain hut, which in itself is actually so sick. Almost makes the having to put up with some of the stuck-up climbers worth it, ey?En savoir plus

  • Füssen

    26 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Day 47:
    Distance: 19.07 km (1,533,31 km)
    Steps: 27,712 (2,188,527)
    Move time: 4h38 (339h46)
    Spend: £45.59 (£727.34)

    🇩🇪 Nachsee to Füssen. 🇩🇪

    Short day. I made the traipse into Füssen amid more heavy storms and spent the day making some final provisions before heading up into the mountains (i.e., mainly resting). Füssen is a very pretty (and very touristy) little city, and from the hostel here, I met Dina, a Ukrainian with all sorts of fun and crazy stories, and we shared some drinks together out on the balcony. This next section could be where the price goes wayy up and the progress goes wayyy down.En savoir plus

  • Nachsee

    25 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Day 46:
    Distance: 32.52 km (1,514.24 km)
    Steps: 45,970 (2,160,815)
    Move time: 7h05 (335h08)
    Spend: £11.69 (£681.75)

    🇩🇪 Obergünzburg to Nachsee. 🇩🇪

    Another fun day. I expected my creep up on the Alps to be a gradual one, at first shielded by gentle foothills increasing in magnitude, but no. One minute I looked up, and all of a sudden there was a giant fucking mountain range staring straight back at me. It was quite a sight to behold; the menacing silhouette of jagged summits jostling on the horizon, and to be honest it was a bit of a shake-of-the-head moment, like 'oh shit, I've just hiked to Alps.' I say that, but I'll never have any amount of self-importance or undue pride over the distance I've hiked; there's always an element of luck involved and by nature of the scale of the distance, it's forever a truly humbling experience. I'll only ever be thankful for the distance I'll have made. Tonight, I'm fortunate enough to be able to stay with Lucia and Tobi; again, two very lovely and welcoming people. But I must admit, they intercepted me on the A-road run in to their house, so unfortunately, the last 3 km or so were driven, as I couldn't exactly say no to their offer of a lift at that moment. So, I'll have to make that extra distance tomorrow as a tourist on foot in Füssen instead.En savoir plus

  • Obergünzburg

    24 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Day 45:
    Distance: 30.19 km (1,481.72 km)
    Steps: 43,013 (2,114,845)
    Move time: 6h42 (328h03)
    Spend: £0.00 (£670.06)

    🇩🇪 Memmingen to Obergünzburg. 🇩🇪

    I've been loving Bavaria so far, with its pretty pastel-coloured assortment of buildings. Even with the consistent waves of hard storms, occasionally interrupted by spells of pure sun, I made my miles to Obergünzburg with relative ease today, stopping only to cut my toenails on a bench outside the famous basilica of Ottobeuren. That's something I love about this trip; it reinforces that there are no real rules in life, only what's expected of you. Want to eat a whole tub of ice cream in public? Alright. Want to sleep in a bush? Sure. How about on a bench? Go for it, mate. Rules can be stupid, and sometimes I find it's just better to think: 'who (or what) am I really affecting negatively by doing this?', and sometimes even 'who's really going to stop me?' Happiness is freedom, and freedom is happiness. Anyway, in Obergünzburg I've been very kindly allowed a place to stay with Tjorven and Ringo, two friendly eighteen year olds. We cooked some delicious traditional German food together and then enjoyed an evening playing frankly an outrageous amount of table tennis. Thanks so much to the both of them and to Tjorven's mum Sarah, who allowed me to stay here even if she couldn't be around herself!En savoir plus

  • Memmingen

    23 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Day 44:
    Distance: 38.07 km (1,451.53 km)
    Steps: 54,341 (2,071,832)
    Move time: 8h40 (321h21)
    Spend: £0.00 (£670.06)

    🇩🇪 Biberach an der Riß to Memmingen. 🇩🇪

    After sleeping rough following Schützenfest, I awoke to find the odd local grazing the aftermath of the celebrations. And you know what they were doing? I wondered why everyone in Germany loved recycling so much, and I think I've finally figured out why. Somehow, the promise of payment exists for recycling certain items, of which one is clearly glass bottles. And so, with the sunlight still tentative, locals came bumbling about to collect as many glass bottles as they could physically carry. The walking that followed those odd scenes was much more regular to me though, or at least up until the part where it felt like every footstep I placed was pure agony (I don't know why, and I've been toning down the distance lately, but fuck did it hurt). Anyway, I am blessed for the evening as I've had the sheer pleasure of being hosted by Vasile in the Bavarian city of Memmingen. Vasile is a Moldovan who has lived all over the continent and had a whole load of interesting perspectives to discuss, as well as just being a completely sound guy. He helped me out big time too; cooking me dinner, helping me to wash my clothes, and even giving me an extensive tour of the old town.En savoir plus

  • Biberach an der Riß

    22 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Day 43:
    Distance: 28.95 km (1,413.46 km)
    Steps: 40,878 (2,017,491)
    Move time: 6h20 (312h41)
    Spend: £13.46 (£670.06)

    🇩🇪 Riedlingen to Biberach an der Riß. 🇩🇪

    Today, I was riding a crest. I don't know why, but after taking a slow morning, I was just really feeling it. And following some easy miles, I've stumbled upon highlight of the day; Schützenfest in Biberach. Now, I did know of this festival's existence, but after rolling into town at 19:30, I expected to have missed whatever celebrations might have been going on. But how wrong was I; I could barely believe the scale of the festivities here. There's everything you imagine when you picture a German folk festival: pretzels, rides, even the Lederhosen-wearing waitresses to carry the monster-sized beers. Most of my time has been spent enjoying the free concert; they've gone from playing Blur, to Robbie Williams to "Will Grigg's on fire, your defence is terrified" (no, really). Honestly, England must live rent-free in Germans' heads, because everyone here's been absolutely vibing to it. And as have I, tbf, there's something very amusing to me about being probably the only English person in an environment like this.En savoir plus

  • Riedlingen

    21 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Day 42:
    Distance: 29.06 km (1,384.51 km)
    Steps: 42,297 (1,976,613)
    Move time: 7h00 (306h21)
    Spend: £21.90 (£656.60)

    🇩🇪 Gammertingen to Riedlingen. 🇩🇪

    The challenges of each day are always ever so slightly unique. The lay of the land and how it chooses to find me means that no two days are ever the same. But today, I was running on empty in pretty much every sense; out of food, water, gas, sleep, and pretty much anything else you can think of. And so, nature decided to cheer me up and send one of the most disgusting storms I've ever encountered. It's not all bad though, as I did eventually manage to find food and a place to rest, where it's probably no surprise that I've slept for 14 hours straight🥴En savoir plus

  • Gammertingen

    20 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Day 41:
    Distance: 28.70 km (1,355.45 km)
    Steps: 41,436 (1,934,316)
    Move time: 6h43 (299h21)
    Spend: £5.37 (£634.70)

    🇩🇪 Hechingen to Gammertingen. 🇩🇪

    Even when there's a bad day, or there's no place to stay, at least there's always the stars to look up and stare at. Keep smiling :)En savoir plus

  • Hechingen

    19 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Day 40:
    Distance: 31.32 km (1,326.75 km)
    Steps: 44,664 (1,892,883)
    Move time: 7h08 (292h38)
    Spend: £9.70 (£629.33)

    🇩🇪 Horb am Neckar to Hechingen. 🇩🇪

    'As you start to walk on the way, the way appears.'

    After a morning spent learning about the perspectives and philosophies of Roman, I took to the path with a renewed spring in my step, warmed by the kindnesses I'd been shown. In fact, the optimism lasted more or less the day through, or at least until I made my arrival in Hechingen. I'd booked to stay in a campsite here, but after arriving at 19:15 and the reception closing at 19:00, I learnt over the phone that I'd have to pay 25€ to stay here, without even access to so much as a toilet! Ridiculous! But honestly, my timing could scarcely have been better, for otherwise, I wouldn't have met Maya. Maya immediately offered to help, allowing me to stay in the awesome trailer house she and her boyfriend had built, where I'd only have to pay the campsite owner 5€. Herself, a kind and enthusiastic geology student; she shared the amazing story how she and her boyfriend had cycled 15,000 km around Europe in 8 months before they'd even started university (makes this journey look pathetic huh, and honestly they're both massive inspirations for that) and then she even proceeded to show off by reciting 100 digits of pi like it was nothing hahah (ok, nerd). For real though, I am so thankful to Maya for her help, even being so kind as to cook me dinner; and she might just have convinced me to stop being a pussy and to just embrace a wildcamp in Germany. I am ever grateful to receive kindness such as I have today.
    En savoir plus

  • Horb am Neckar

    18 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Day 39:
    Distance: 36.43 km (1,295.43 km)
    Steps: 51,920 (1,848,219)
    Move time: 8h09 (293h39)
    Spend: £19.26 (£619.62)

    🇩🇪 Schönmünz to Horb am Neckar. 🇩🇪

    Today would've been my graduation day. So do I regret choosing to be here, stomping the German earth over celebrating with my friends? Y'know, I think I can honestly say no. No, I don't regret it. I thought I would more than I do, but seeing the pictures of my friends at the graduation podium genuinely fills me with nothing but pride and happiness for each and every one of them. Sure, it's a shame to have missed out on some photos, but a few of the friendships I've taken from university are worth more than any photo that might've been taken on this day. One day, the moment will come for each and every one of us, and as much as I love my friends, sometimes it's worth standing alone in the name something you believe in. Thank you, University of Bath, and thank you, Natural Sciences. I wish you all nothing but the very best for the future.

    And thank you Roman, btw! What an absolute legend; mega interesting dude and I could say so much more, but it was an absolute pleasure to be able to enjoy an evening barbecuing and drinking with you. I am so grateful to be able to be hosted by people such as yourself.
    En savoir plus

  • Schönmünz

    17 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Day 38:
    Distance: 34.49 km (1,259.41 km)
    Steps: 48,577 (1,796,299)
    Move time: 7h38 (285h30)
    Spend: £20.23 (£600.36)

    🇩🇪 Baden-Baden to Schönmünz. 🇩🇪

    Don't get me wrong, an adventure like this can give you some unforgettable experiences, but it's very much an anti-holiday. Some of the discomforts I have put myself through already have been pretty, well... uncomfortable, to say the least. So, after taking a break from mission mode to be a normal tourist for even a day, I did find it a little difficult getting back into the headspace to make ground this morning. But it was actually a very therapeutic day of meandering the oh-so-quiet mountains of the Black Forest. And yes, you did read that right: mountains! Surely the first actually legally recognised up-and-down mountains of the trip, peaking at 991 m for one arboreal summit. Looks like the honour of the first 1000 m + elevations will have to wait until the Alps...En savoir plus

  • Baden-Baden

    16 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Day 36 (& 37: Rest day)
    Distance: 43.40 km + 8.37 km (1,224.92 km)
    Steps: 61,038 + 12,211 (1,747,722)
    Move time: 9h17 + 2h05 (277h52)
    Spend: £42.71 + £36.15 (£580.13)

    🇫🇷 Haguenau to Baden-Baden. 🇩🇪

    Time really flies, huh. I can't believe it's been 3 days since I last wrote something. Remembering back, the road to Baden-Baden was a bit of an ordeal, 43 km in 34°C heat was not the most fun I've had in years. And they'd have you believe they're best friends these days btw, but there's there's little coincidence that there are so many military camps around the French-German border; honestly, they've got to be my least favourite thing to be anywhere near to. Anyway, following the trip's one and only crossing of the Rhine, I decided to take a rest day after reaching Baden-Baden. Why did I wait until Baden-Baden? Well, I've walked from England's most famous spa town and ended up in Germany's! 'Baden' means quite literally 'to bathe', and for that, I needed no second invitation, in spite of the town's name. So yes, on my rest day, I headed to the spa, actually in the smaller nearby (and cheaper) town of Bad Herrenalb, where I'd managed to find a place to stay. I have no idea what it was I actually ended up paying for, but after sampling the lavish saunas, steam rooms, cold pools and who knows what else, I was informed by a member of staff about the strict 'no clothes' rule. Not even swimming trunks. That's right, they literally forced me to get my elephant schnitzel out; what the hell Germany, you perverts. After not really being into that for too long, I headed to the pools and then treated myself to a restaurant dinner, where I endured another horrifyingly German experience, which basically translates to eating in the town square while a man constantly screamed over microphone and handed out sausages?! Never change, Germany. Never change.
    En savoir plus

  • Haguenau

    14 juillet 2023, France ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Day 35:
    Distance: 32.63 km (1,173.15 km)
    Steps: 45,658 (1,674,473)
    Move time: 6h56 (266h34)
    Spend: £7.74 (£501.27)

    🇫🇷 Dambach to Haguenau. 🇫🇷

    "Give every day the opportunity to become the best day of your life." That was the last thing one girl told me after rejecting me during the talking phase once. Now, that's a weird thing to start with writing about for today, but every now and again, the quote crosses my mind. Sure, maybe you're the type of person to read it and think 'what a load of shit'; but then it's easy to judge when you're a miserable person yourself. I think: that to be able to see beyond whatever hardships you may have faced, to cultivate the good in your life is surely the gift of mindset. You never need some specific weather, nor to be in some specific place; not even to be with some specific someone, to get the most out of your day, any day. One thing I've learnt is that the only true disability in life is a bad attitude; whatever limits you thought you had, whatever holds you back, there's nothing that positivity wouldn't do wonders for. Spread only positivity, and some of it might just make its way back to you. Sorry, you might be reading this expecting that I've had some great obstacle to overcome today: but no, just some thoughts. Today was actually pretty good; so I found out that it was Bastille day here; what the hell is that? Well, apparently, it's essentially the national day of France, as per the fireworks popping off around me right now. To rewind a bit, though; this morning, I saw off the final ascents of the rogue Vosges and have since toured a series of little French villages, all characterised by their pretty timbered buildings. A final forest run-in led me to this cheerful campsite, where I got to enjoy the pool! Tomorrow, I finally say goodbye to the Grand-Est, and France itself at that!En savoir plus

  • Dambach

    13 juillet 2023, France ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Day 34:
    Distance: 34.52 km (1,140.52 km)
    Steps: 49,165 (1,628,815)
    Move time: 7h48 (259h38)
    Spend: £7.79 (£493.53)

    🇫🇷 Bettviller to Dambach. 🇫🇷

    After the glories of having to sleep on another bench, this time in the lit square of Bettviller, I got my stiff limbs moving again for the day as soon as possible, with just a hint of dawn on the horizon. An early morning shuffle through the hills of the Regional Nature Park of the North Vosges then brought me to Bitche, home to an impressive 13th century citadel and, more importantly, a 21st century McDonalds. After extensive unwinds at both, I eventually said goodbye to the bitches, and made a nerve-wracking straddle through the nearby French military encampment. The woods which followed were eerily still, almost unsettlingly so, with the only noise being the occasional crescendo of machine gun fire echoing between the trees. It made it easy to imagine the scenes that might've unfolded here should Germany have ever invaded the French Maginot line, for which there are literally hundreds of abandoned bunkers littering the region.En savoir plus

  • Bettviller

    12 juillet 2023, France ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Day 33:
    Distance: 33.29 km (1,106.00 km)
    Steps: 47,975 (1,579,650)
    Move time: 7h48 (251h50)
    Spend: £12.29 (£485.74)

    🇩🇪 Saarbrücken to Bettviller. 🇫🇷

    Honestly been finding it difficult the past couple of days. Sometimes really difficult. Not even physically, I think it's just mental fatigue starting to creep in. It takes a lot of strength to hit 30-35 km in day without knowing where you're next going to stay, or when you're next going to eat, only to then get up the following day and do it all over again. And then there's the next day, and the one after even that. So yeah, I think a rest day could soon be on the cards, as it's somehow been 2 weeks and 500 km since my last. What's more, recent encounters with wild boar and, not one but three snakes, have left me increasingly reluctant to wildcamp too, but in the words of one hard geezer I know (and some say he's the hardest), the game is the game. Gotta keep planting those 1's and 2's.En savoir plus

  • Saarbrücken

    11 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Day 32:
    Distance: 25.80 km (1,072.71 km)
    Steps: 36,429 (1,531,675)
    Move time: 5h53 (244h02)
    Spend: £6.71 (£473.45)

    🇩🇪 Saarlouis to Saarbrücken. 🇩🇪

    Jesus christ, do you see the size of that thing?! I thought this was urban Germany, not the Seren-fucking-geti. Eine lange schlange indeed. At 34°C though, the worst trouble of the day came again in the form of the heat. And you know what they say, if you can't handle the heat then get out the kitchen. So I did. Except in my case, the kitchen is, well... the direct sunlight? I mean, look at me, I'm a pasty white ginger boy, I practically burn from turning on the oven. So yes, the distance today might be a little disappointing, but frankly, who cares when you have the pleasure of being hosted by Tobias to look forward, my first host from couchsurfing: a man with real style and chharm, having lived madnesses such as solo kayaking the Yukon and owning an entire library's worth of vinyl records. Kindnesses don't come much greater as I've even been served dinner, and allowed the pleasure of cracking open a cold one with him. And just as well btw, as a hailstone spewing storm has come menacing over. Big thanks to the Begemann family!En savoir plus

  • Saarlouis

    10 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Day 31:
    Distance: 41.48 km (1,046.91 km)
    Steps: 57,868 (1,495,246)
    Move time: 8h43 (238h09)
    Spend: £0.00 (£466.74)

    🇱🇺🇪🇺 Schengen to Saarlouis. 🇩🇪

    It was business as usual today as I found my zen while slapping my Merrell soles against the mostly smooth German tarmac, all the way to Saarlouis. It was also my first day fully immersed in the joys of the German language too; an early thought being that the very word 'Polizei' strikes fear into my heart like no other (hopefully just a side effect of watching Jason Bourne, and not a sign of things to come.) Anyhow, some might maintain that this trek is still tame; low-level and amongst civilisation. But to them, I'd say that those challenges aren't necessarily greater; they are simply different. Whilst I'm really looking forward to reaching the mountains, I can only hike what's in front of me, and the integrity of this trip is paramount to me. If I failed to place a single step between Bath and Istanbul (or wherever I may end up) with my own two feet, then personally I'd consider this adventure tainted, and well, a failure. Anyway, that was basically an array of random thoughts, but long story short: I'm still loving it! The difficulties in a day make for interesting moments to record and hopefully to read about, but ultimately, every day has its rewards, and to live simply is to live, well, happily:))En savoir plus

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