Italy
Province of Siena

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    • Day 26–30

      Weiter Richtung Caldana

      May 13 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Wir fahren mit ein paar Fotostops über Nebenstraßen weiter Richtung Süden und überlegen am frühen Nachmittag in Pienza zu bleiben, was wir bisher so gar nicht auf dem Schirm hatten. Es sieht mit seiner Architektur und der Lage auf einem Berggipfel einfach höchst majestätisch aus. Aber es ist Freitagnachmittag und als wir uns nähern, realisieren wir, dass es völlig überfüllt ist. Letztlich starten wir 150 km durch in die Nähe von Caldana, einem 1000 Seelen-Bergdorf nördlich von Grosseto in der Maremma, einer sumpfigen Küstenregion. Dort haben wir am Sonntag eine Verabredung mit Familienmitgliedern, aber für WoMos ist der kleine Ort zu eng und auch die Anfahrt recht steil. Nur 4 km weiter gibt es den wunderschönen Agricampeggio Santa Clorinda mit sehr netten Betreibern. Einen wunderbaren Bio-Wein von den umliegenden Weinbergen gibt es hier sogar auch zu kaufen. Wir sind dort fast alleine. Und es ist so unglaublich ruhig. Vogelgezwitscher ungetrübt, höchstens mal ab und an unterbrochen von ein bisschen Hundegebell in der Ferne und in der Dämmerung abgelöst vom Zirpen der Zikaden. Kein Straßenlärm, keine Sirenen von Rettungsfahrzeugen. Einfach Ruhe pur. Es tut soooo gut! Und das Wetter ist super: 20-26 Grad, ein Traum! Wir lassen es übers Wochenende ganz ruhig angehen und bleiben sogar mal 4 Nächte. Kleiner Nachteil: bis zum nächsten Supermarkt müssen wir 25 km radeln. Zwar gibt es selten Radwege, aber hier ist jede Straße Nebenstraße. Das passt.

      Unser Familientreffen ist sehr herzlich, mega lecker und die Gegend haben wir auch unbedingt in unser Herz geschlossen. Vielleicht kommen wir hier wieder vorbei, wenn wir mal weiter in den Süden wollen.
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    • Day 44

      Day 40: San Quirico d'Orcia to Radiocofa

      June 1 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Today was a hard day. The walk was long (34.07 km), the day was very warm (the strong breeze was a God send), there were only three places to rest (two without shade), the Way seemed to have received the least attention of any so far in Italy, sure the waymarkers were everywhere, but some of the paths were so overgrown that making headway was difficult. The icing on the cake was the 300m climb at the end! I met up with the solo French pilgrim (Claire) I saw yesterday, who I will eat a meal with tonight, and another female solo pilgrim from Korea. Both walked faster than me. The highlight of the day was the military band who played in the town centre this afternoon. What a treat!Read more

    • Day 43

      Day 39: Ponte d'Arbia to San Quirico d'O

      May 31 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      I awoke to another foggy morning. It makes everything look mystical and beautiful. I could mix it up a bit and say that it was a bad day of walking (28.35 km), but that would not be the truth. It was great, up and down hills, by crop and mown grass fields with rolled up hay bales and along winding unsealed roads that appeared to go on forever. There was quite a stiff breeze to keep me cool and a little bit of rain, even some thunder and lightning, but nothing to be concerned about or to detract from the enjoyment of the walk or the places I walked through. I met two Swiss pilgrims from Lausanne (Anna and Gabriel), who started in Siena and will end in Rome, another lone female pilgrim (French, who started in Lucca and is going to Rome), and met Tammy and Alan at the end of the day - everyone seems to walk so much faster then me!Read more

    • Day 42

      Day 38: Siena to Ponte d'Arbia

      May 30 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      I woke today to a Siena shrouded in a pea soup fog. It had lifted to just above the buildings as I left, but it was still quite thick as I began my walk, and so I was unable to see any of the views as I made my way out of the city. I actually like the fog; it gives me a real sense of closeness to the things in my immediate area. Overall, the day was cooler than it has been, which I enjoyed. The walk itself (27.33 km) was a genuine pleasure as it was up and down the gently rolling hills, through small villages and beside train tracks. I felt a real sense of peace and contentment today as I walked, and it reinforced for me how much walking is my "happy place". Other than the birds and about three bikes, I was on my own right up until I came upon Ponte d'Arbia, where Tammy and Alan arrived as I was having a little rest. We are all at the same accommodation tonight and have just returned from a beer. There is a gentle rain, but all should be gone by tomorrow. I almost forgot; I met a lovely couple from Townsville last night, Ted and Kim. They are travelling around Italy and were the nicest people. It felt so good to speak, so comfortably, with other Australians.Read more

    • Day 41

      Day 37: Siena - rest day

      May 29 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      The heart, the old city of Siena, is amazing. I've walked around all day, sometimes with purpose, sometimes not, and love the place. Where else but Italy would you carelessly walk down some creepy looking, dimly lit, alleyway (even at night) and be completely charmed (and safe)? The Cathedral is literally awesome in so many ways. Then there are two Basilicas and numerous churches: I fit in as many as I could. And, of course, the views. It's obviously a tourist town and the place is alive with people from everywhere. I took so many photos, so I can only give a very small sample here.Read more

    • Day 40

      Day 36: Monteriggioni to Siena

      May 28 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Another brilliant day of walking (22.79 km) through lots of woodland paths. Again, I encountered a lot of bikes on the "Tuscany Trail" - luckily, they were going in the opposite direction. One charming thing about Monteriggioni; there were horse stalls outside the walls - just in case you arrived on horseback! Oh, and I think my accommodation was part of the old town lockup - there were definitely rooms that looked like cells on the ground floor. It was on the warm side today, but there was plenty of shade , which was a real blessing. I met a young Italian couple who were training for their Camino Frances later on in the year, a sole Italian pilgrim (she is friendly but may be shy) and Philip, from NZ, who had aarn pockets, camps as he walks, has walked from Florence and will be ending up in Lucca - he walks in Italy every year. Siena is lovely, and the old section is huge! My accommodation is right off the Piazza del Compo, which is brilliant and where I'm sitting now, having an Aperol Spritz enjoying the afternoon sun.Read more

    • Day 13

      Dag 13 "Landschap"

      June 3, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Slecht weer vandaag volgens BuienRadarNL. Nou ja dat valt dus reuze mee, een beetje bewolkt.
      Toscane op de bonnefooi met als baken Torrita di Siena.
      TomTom weer een kronkel route laten berekenen. Helemaal top. Prachtige wegen mooie landschappen.
      We zijn vele malen gestopt 3 plaatsen bezocht, 2 bij toeval en de laatste als eindbestemming. De eerste 2 waren onverwacht authentiek. Smalle steegjes waar je in kon verdwalen. En... geen toerist te bekennen. We hebben allebei genoten.
      Helaas voor Torrita di Siena waren we allebei steegjes moe. En eerlijk gezegd ook de minste.
      Nu rap naar de tent en al vast een beetje inpakken, morgen gaat de reis verder en dat wordt een verrassing.
      P. s. Maar ff gesplitst. Meer als 300 foto's 🙈
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    • Day 39

      Day 35: San Gimignano to Monteriggioni

      May 27 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Tuscany continues to deliver. A long and rather warm walk today (32.85 km). This section is touted as one of the best of the VF, and overall, it was very pretty. The highlight of the day was walking the SentierElsa river trail. The water was aqua, but my camera has not given the colour justice. A very young pilgrim, Louis, who I'd encounter a few days ago, from Switzerland, spoke to me today to let me know how impressed he was with me walking at my age (LOL), he's a darling young thing so I couldn't take offence. I also saw another eight pilgrims on the Way and heaps of bikes participating in the " Tuscany Tour" and had breakfast with two bike pilgrims who will be in Rome in no time at all.Read more

    • Rule #17 (Tuscany)

      June 19, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

      Stick to your guns…If you want to go visit a certain landmark then do it… Don’t let other people talk you into doing something different especially if it involves wine tasting and you don’t drink wine lol (however I will sayTuscany was very a beautiful area)Read more

    • Day 9

      A New Direction

      June 28, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

      We knew when we started this journey it would be one that would take us to places way beyond each day’s destination.

      We finished up our stay in Camadoli (and Tuscany) with a hike that took us into the Foreste Casentinesi. The path serpentined up for a few miles into a long road that we decided to take. We saw someone working outside and approached him asking if it was okay that we keep walking on the property. He didn’t seem to understand our question, so we asked it again (NOT more loudly, by the way - we were assuming it was our Italian that was the cause for his lack of response). When he didn’t answer for a third time, we just smiled and kept walking. When we were out of earshot of this person, we wondered (actually we assessed and diagnosed - as a teacher and counselor are prone to do) if maybe he was having trouble hearing us, or perhaps there was some other issue that he was dealing with, “poor guy,” we thought. Anyway, we continued on.

      As we made our way down the long road to a few old buildings, we noticed the words, “il silenzio e lode al signore” (“silence and praise to the lord”).

      A bit later, we turned to each other with a simultaneous epiphany as we finally realized that we were on the grounds of a silent monastery and those words were telling us why the man did not answer, despite our most awkward and pushy attempts to get him to do so. We were on the grounds of the Monastero di Camaldoli. Yes, we had tried (repeatedly, we might add) to get a SILENT monk to talk. Who needs to be assessed and diagnosed now?!

      (As you can see from the picture, waving is allowed!)

      From there, we decided to take the train to Arezzo. In order to make the train on time, we arranged for a taxi to get us to the station. Our taxi driver, Francesco, drove us to the train station and was more than helpful in getting us situated. (FYI - the person taking this picture of the very kind and very strong Francesco carrying one of our backpacks was just jealous, hence the photo op).

      We were surprised and so excited to see our new friend, Maria Grazia (from the Parish Church of San Pietro), standing across the train platform. We chatted for a bit until her train arrived (you may be able to see her behind the orange train doors blowing kisses and waving goodbye over and over and over again).

      We took the train to Arezzo (then had to change trains in Foligno and then had another change in Fossato). Despite being exhausted, we decided to continue on to Gubbio by bus. We arrived late into this beautiful Umbrian city; even darkness can’t hide its beauty.

      As you can see from our use of transportation, we have decided to change the direction, and length, of our trip. Because of the lodging issues, and a few other impactful variables, we have shortened our hiking time. Instead we will arrive in Roma this weekend - by train, by bus, and, finally, on foot.

      We have had the most amazing experiences at every, right or left, turn. When things felt wrong or hopeless or scary, something right and good and safe happened every single time. We will wrap up this little travel blog, and our incredible journey, this weekend since we have decided to head home then.

      La vita è bella!
      💚🤍❤️
      (Life is beautiful!)
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Provincia di Siena, Province of Siena, Sienne, Siena

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