Camino

April - June 2023
“May our eyes be opened to what is not seen” Read more
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  • Day 69

    Camino Ends … or is it just beginning?

    June 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We have completed our Camino Pilgrimage and this will be our last post as Pilgrims. We have, however, learned that our real Camino only starts now in real life.
    We will start a new Penguin trip as “Tourists” tomorrow but hopefully will behave more like Pilgrims! So for those who just wanted to follow the Camino I suggest you turn off your notifications or you will get ambushed by our tourist posts. Thank you for following our trip and your support. We loved having you. As you can imagine we have a lot of thoughts after 60 days so some reflections follow but we need more time to fully respond so consider this a summary although caution it is long …

    Pilgrim or Tourist?

    There is an element of pilgrim and tourist in all of us and in each trip. Essentially after a trip, a pilgrim is in some way changed or their behaviour / outlook is changed. A tourist sees and experiences the same things but returns home enriched by the experiences but mostly unchanged.

    On the Camino, whenever anyone showed signs of tourist behaviour we were reminded of the differences by the locals: A tourist travels and visits places with the mindset of having experiences and seeing places that meet their expectations and standards, and responds accordingly when they are met or not met. Perhaps a mindset of entitlement.
    A pilgrim travels and visits places with a mindset of being aware, adapting and obtaining enjoyment from the local expectation and standards. A mindset of a visitor.
    This is usually evident in complaining about something which is considered normal in the place you visit but not where you come from such as waiting more than 2 minutes to be served, not offering a meal to meet our dietary preferences or that a shop is closed when you need it between 2pm and 5pm or …

    Why do people walk the Camino? There are so many reasons but the must common are:
    1. As a spiritual/ religious pilgrimage which is what it originally was.
    2. As a physical challenge or activity - how far can I walk, how fast, how many km or hours per day, etc
    3. As a break from the stress of daily life and a means to focus on self (work, relationships, process a tragic event)
    4. It is just something someone wanted to do - a combination of any of the above or - I saw the movie “The Way”, heard about the Camino from someone else, saw it on You Tube, thought it would be a good social experience, etc

    Our reflections are obviously influenced by our reasons which were primarily (1. Spiritual) and (2. Physical - as in can I actually do it?)

    Jane’s Reflection

    The Camino for me is a lot about the people we meet, both as fellow pilgrims, volunteers and all those you meet along the way, even the local taking their dog for a walk. The sharing we encountered over the many pilgrim meals and the care given by the various hosts. When walking it can be like walking side by side with our guardian angel in a place where happiness, kindness, and thoughtfulness are experienced. The people along the journey are remarkably compassionate towards each other. It's a precious time when God allows us to reflect on our lives, embrace the countless blessings and graces we receive, and fully immerse ourselves in the awe-inspiring beauty of His creation.

    My Mum also played a big part in my pilgrimage. As long as I can remember she had wanted to walk the Camino but never did. Along my way, almost daily, I would see signs of her sharing my journey. Whether it was her name written on a rock, or a poster we passed, a piece of music I knew she loved, a particular flower, or view, church or prayer. I was able to dedicate my Camino to her loving memory and had her name written on my Compostela. She was my first teacher of the faith that is so precious to me and I will be forever grateful.

    What kept coming back to me while walking, were the countless people who have walked the exact path during centuries and centuries past. I would try and imagine their fears and anxieties along the way, the unknown that they faced, their trials and tribulations. Their faith that kept them walking. This helped me so much when I was encountering pain and discomfort with my endless blisters.

    I know my own apprehension before we started and the doubts I faced. What I have learnt and will take home with me is a quote I read:
    “If you could see the journey whole you might never undertake it, might never dare the first step that propels you from the place you have known toward the place you know not”

    Ant’s Reflection

    When I started the Camino my objective was to use the time to work out what I do next following 25 years with my primary objective being raising our family and building my career. I thought the time would allow me to put together a grand life plan. Through the wisdom of all my Camino influencers (see below), I realised that I first needed to empty my current bucket of objectives, “self-focussed /motivated” principles, wish lists and plans. A good example for me was to let go of my need to create a grand plan now with the knowledge I have now.
    Then, with a truly open mind (empty of previous bias and objectives) I was challenged to to look around me, listen, observe and be open to what was being shown to me and then over time my purpose would become clear. The hardest thing was knowing what in the bucket needed emptying but I think it was removing all preconceived ideas and especially differentiating between my self motivated or community motivated principles. The words repeated by the influencers were humility (not being I focussed), waiting patiently (not easy as this doesn’t mean waiting without showing frustration it actually means waiting peacefully…).
    In trying to be a better Christian Fr Mike simplifies it so well by referencing several passages from the scriptures (see references below) where he reminds us that Christ focussed on the sinners, the poor and the sick and we are called to imitate him. We are not expected to achieve the impossible. We start with what is necessary around us and then do what is possible. Impossible outcomes will result from those. We need to make a committed decision “to be there - to show up” for the people and things around us, not just be there but completely be there. To do that, we need to really see what is right next to us (Emmaus). For me that means I don’t need to focus on the long term grand plan to change the world or stick rigidly to a plan but rather have a mindset to look around, observe and serve / respond to what is around me now and that may be different tomorrow. Not very corporate at all!
    So my mindset is different, I feel like I am more aware of my (maybe many moments) of impatience and my need to stick to a plan where the consequence doesn’t matter. My actions may not have changed yet (that is for others to judge) but I am more aware.
    All of this has been a gift of the Camino and my influencers. And especially my main influencer Jane, my walking buddy, my beloved wife and the one who knows me best, She sees and deals with my “lack of humility” moments and shares in the best moments which remind me of the words from the sister in Lourdes “ don’t spend too much time planning where to go but rather who you go with and who you will meet” and a pilgrim blessing quote “It isn’t important where you go but what does matter is who you arrive with”.

    Camino physical influences
    “If you look you will see signs”
    “If you believe, you will see signs everywhere”. The signs we saw that influenced us were:
    The churches
    The crosses
    The devotions / statues to Our Lady
    The statues of so many saints
    The fields of farmland
    The wild flowers
    The mountains
    We could write about each but every day they were all around us and so inspiring.

    Most influential people on our Camino

    For us, this is heavily biased towards people and places with a spiritual objective. They are on the Camino to help our journey and they did their job!
    - the priests, sisters and brothers that went out of their way to make us feel welcome, give us blessings and be there to serve us especially at St Jean, Roncesvalles, Puenta La Reine, Logrono, Santa Domingo de la Calzada, Burgos, Carrion de los Condes, Sahagun, Rabanal del Camino, Finisterre and Santiago.
    - special individual influencers were the sister that performed the washing ceremony at Lourdes and the sister who did the Tour at Lourdes. They provided some hope and challenge.
    Our friends and families back home, knowing we were in their thoughts and prayers and that they were in ours.
    Our Penguin followers - the support and comments motivated daily posts even when we were too tired.
    George Ezra (singer) album “This is George”- the beat of Green Green Grass was used to kick start a good pace to finish the day when we were tired. Such a good walking beat.

    Major on-line influence is Fr Mike Schmitz - Sunday homilies are awesome. (Spotify, Apple or wherever you get your podcasts). Strongly Recommend listening to his homilies from the Sunday after Easter (April 23) to Pentecost. The first homily is the road to Emmaus (Luke 24: 13-35) and the other homilies helped showed how we can follow Christ in our daily lives.
    The other passage which appeared often on the Camino and made it sound simple was also a call to imitate Christ from Matthew 5:16 “ In the same way your light must shine in the sight of men, so that, seeing your good works, they may give the praise to the Father in heaven”

    The hospitaleros ( people who volunteer for pilgrims), the Albergue owners especially at albergue in Lintzoin, Villamayor de Monjardín, Trabadelo, Fonfria

    Pilgrims - we don’t mention names as there were so many. They know who they are but also those we met for maybe an hour that had an influence like the Canadians at Elvis bar, the stain glass maker, the 81 year old, the Frenchman at Carrion, the Dominican medical Gastro specialist

    One Canadian hearing my story suggested a book which helped me - I downloaded the audiobook and listened to it. It described the transition from the first to second part of life. Falling Upward by Richard Rohr. It is written by a Catholic priest but is good reading for anyone looking for the purpose for second part of life. Stage 1 is essential to create a solid platform and then we need to let go some elements to use that platform in stage 2. before you can work out stage 2 you need to know what your purpose has been in stage 1 and what of that still matters.

    Other stuff we were asked was mostly about our luggage
    Our Camino stuff was just about perfect - thanks to Jane’s research. Lightweight clothing that dries quickly and we used everything except thermal underwear thanks to great weather. We probably had too much medicinal supplies not knowing that most towns had a pharmacy or 2 and they were excellent and had some English if not good English. So maybe just needed a few of each. We did take playing cards but ditched them about half way. And we had a spare collapsable water bottle that we didn’t need.
    Apart from new shoes which Jane needed to stop blisters, we purchased nothing on the way which is amazing for us. A few tiny souvenirs.
    Jane pack weighed about 8kg and Ant’s about 10kg plus any food supplies.
    So, Camino packing gets a 9 out of 10.
    The packing for the next part gets about a 5 out of 10 and we sent a lot home - Great to see the big box go and be left with 1 bag each. Cannot say enough about lightweight clothing and not your standard T shirts, underwear, etc.
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  • Day 69

    5 Symbols from the Camino

    June 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Worthy of reflection🙏🏻

  • Day 68

    Santiago tourist day

    June 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Today was our final day in Santiago and with it the end of our Camino. But we have discovered that the authentic Camino begins when it is completed. We started our day at the Post Office to mail back a box of the Camino gear we will not need for the rest of our trip as well as the clothes we now realise we will not need. I know I will have been successful if by the time I get home, I have worn everything in my case. We then went to English Mass at the Pilgrim Office. A little chapel that was full with people from US, Australia, Scotland, Philippians. The Priest was from Philippians, but now lives in Santiago. He was wonderfully welcoming. For the prayers of the faithful we were all invited to the altar to light a candle and offer a prayer. We said a prayer for all our family and loved ones. There are many English speaking volunteers - religious and ley. They offer an incredible service of retreats and reflection opportunities over tea. After tea we spent some time watching the new pilgrims arriving at the Plaza - always an emotional experience. We couldn’t believe it when we saw a friend from many days ago - when we attended our retreat at the Benedictine Monastery. We spent some time catching up and then headed to lunch where we had a delicious paella. We had our obligatory siesta and a little later headed off for a walking tour of the old town which was a very relaxed and informative walk. We had a light dinner at a vegan cafe, which was a very nice change. Last little bit of packing and admin before our departure tomorrow and then bed zzzz

    Tomorrow we are heading to Barcelona for 4 days and then on to Italy. We will post our Camino reflections tomorrow and end this Penguin trip!
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  • Day 67

    Santiago (bike day 5 / 40km)

    June 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Last day of cycling or walking started with light rain and mist. So beautiful and peaceful. The overnight rain made the paths muddy so we stuck to the roads and sealed paths. The roads were a bit slippery so we were extra careful and we took some photos today. We went off the Camino track to go to the view point which meant a serious climb but we had time and battery so why not?
    It turns out it is a walking track so bike access wasn’t possible AND we went downhill on a muddy rocky track and missed the long downhill on the road 😢

    Google maps then decided to take us the most complicated way to the bike rental shop but in fairness Santiago has one way streets in a spider web pattern and is a bit difficult. At one point I thought I must have selected pavements only?? Anyway we got there in one piece and felt like we had earned our burger!

    Our afternoon job was to sort out what luggage we were taking with us and what to send home. We can’t believe how much we had and we packed lightly we thought! We ended up selecting 18kg of stuff to put in a box - including our backpacks 4 pairs of shoes, sleeping bags and cloths we specifically thought we would need but now we don’t! Camino lesson #1!

    We went to Mass at the cathedral followed by an invitation to join young musicians and a priest for prayers with the Blessed Sacrament. On our way out we heard a choir practicing and it turns out there was a concert at 9:30 (Washington Cathedral Choir) which we stayed for. Their voices were beautiful and the acoustics in the Cathedral are top notch. (Some short videos attached). A lovely way to end.

    Tomorrow we have a few more things to do before heading off on Tuesday for the next part …
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  • Day 66

    Vilaserio (bike day 4, 53km)

    June 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The final leg for us is 2 days from Muxía to Santiago, about 86km so we will end our bike Camiño tomorrow (Sunday). We were not sure that our bikes would still have any battery left to finish with the hills so we stopped and charged our bikes for an hour while we had a coffee. We would definitely not have had enough power so it was just as well as we climbed about 700m. E-bikes are just ‘amazing!

    A large part of the ride was on the same path we took last week to Finisterre but it was wet last week so felt different. We fealty sorry for those going up “that hill” and saw a large group pushing their bikes up like we had to. We were so busy riding we took hardly any photos - sorry!

    We had a quiet afternoon in a one horse town / village after arriving and continued with our admin catch up and preparation for the next leg of our adventure which is shaping up nicely. And Jane says she is going to post about Santiago soon …
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  • Day 65

    Muxia rest day

    June 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Another tough day in the most beautiful, peaceful place. We woke late, had brekkie in our patio, cycled to remote beaches where we were the only people, had a picnic lunch and cycled home to catch up on ADMIN and washing! Then out for a lovely seafood dinner from a fishing village! The fish was so fresh and they have a local speciality - barnicles (Percebes) which we had to try. A bit difficult to get them so watch the video.
    Tomorrow and Sunday we head back to Santiago and hand back our bikes.
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  • Day 64

    Muxia (Bike day 31km)

    June 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Another day for the pictures to do most of the talking because I’m running out of adjectives to describe the beauty of what we are seeing.
    We ventured off the Camino track to Muxia because it needed too much concentration on our bikes with narrow and at times rocky paths. The roads were stunning and much more pleasant to cycle. More lovely food, another beautiful sunset …
    We are so blessed!
    Take note of the location of the church right on the rocks - stunning!! It is the church of Our lady of the boat. Tradition says that Mary met St James here and helped and encouraged him in his preaching in Galicia.
    The stones are a monument commemorating the oil spilled from the tanker “Prestige”
    Tomorrow we will tour the Muxia area and relax and reflect
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  • Day 63

    Finisterre rest day

    June 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We are back on the bikes tomorrow heading for Muxia. Today was a lovely rest day and the pictures will tell the story …

  • Day 62

    Finisterre (bike day 2, 48km)

    June 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today was longer but less hilly and most of the day was so good with quite a few long downhill sections going back to sea level but some of the hills were insane. If we lost our momentum on the narrow rocky paths we just couldn’t start again and had to push! We also had a few bike issues. Ant’s bike couldn’t use the last 3 easy gears for a while and Jane’s motor died. Shimano “Error E10” wasn’t a good sign. Fortunately we were near the top and there were not any steep sections to go but still a bit of work to get to the top. Then we went all the way down to the coast to a seaside village called Cee where, after a long lunch, a new bike arrived from our rental company. Such awesome service! AND a full battery! We then went over a hill and back down again to Finisterre. On the way there was a ridiculously steep down hill that we could easily have bypassed on the road and Ant managed a proper “stack” but fortunately was not injured!
    The arrival into Finisterre had a long cobbled pathway which we normally love but seriously, for a bike path! Welcome indeed. Not good for the derrière!
    We arrived in one piece, had a quick shower and cycled to mass as it is St Anthony feast day! Then off to meet a fellow pilgrim for a drink before we ate a delicious seafood dinner of Calamari, langoustine in pastry bags and a huge plate of mussels. We walked to sunset because our butts are a bit tender for cycling!
    Finisterre was know as the “end of the world” for westerners and it is tradition for pilgrims to watch the sun set over the sea after the long walk across the country. We got lucky and had no clouds - the first for many days so we will bore you with our pics!
    A special moment today at second breakfast when we met an 81 year old Belgian lady who walked the Camino Frances in a month! Such a positive lady, just amazing!
    Phew, I feel tired just writing this but it was such a cool day. Beunos Noches 💤
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  • Day 61

    Santa Marina (bike day 1 / 45km)

    June 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    We switched from the feet to the e-bikes and thought we’d have a few easy going days. Well!! Let’s just say our batteries were very low when we ended and we were reintroduced to some muscles that had not been used for a long time. Definitely going to be stiff tomorrow. There is absolutely no way we could have done that without e-bikes. Some long and steep hills. So a good day of cycling and as always, with the hills we get great views.
    There was rain about so we hid under a bridge and ate our picnic lunch during a heavy shower. This made some of the paths a bit muddy. We were mostly on roads / paved surfaces and firm gravel but sometimes on stony paths up or down the hills. We could have stuck to the road but tried to follow the official bicycle Camino path.
    Our Albergue is set in a lovely country village with bordering farmlands and hills in the distance. The dark clouds added to the effect. We had a late start out of Santiago as we had to go and fetch our bikes, learn how pack them and then get to the start - the cathedral. Nothing happens early in Spain! As a result we got in quite late at 5pm but were happy we negotiated the bikes with no real issues. We ended with a nice home cooked meal and met a few lovely people, a Swedish lady who has walked so many Caminos now walking with her grandson, a very friendly german couple and a Portuguese group who were happy to chat and then went off to bed, but …
    The room was a mess and we didn’t know where anything was. Our walking backpack routine was so slick but now we have bicycle bags. Everything is in a new place I don’t know when we will get to bed!
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