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Camino Portuguese

April - Jun 2023
Backpacking the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela followed by visits to Madrid, Seville and Barcelona Baca lagi
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  • Camino Portuguese
    11
    Hari 22

    Day 17 Porto to Vila do Conde

    12 Mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    So when leaving Porto, you have a choice to take the central route which follows roads, towns, forests, roman roads, etc like we have been doing, or to take the coastal route along or near the Portuguese coastline and the Atlantic ocean. We have always planned on taking the coastal trail even though it is a little bit longer and less popular. About a third of the pilgrims take the coastal trail.

    Today we started and immediately felt blessed. How thankful we are to be able to do this together, the air was cool with a slight breeze, the sun bright, the view amazing. The first 10 miles went by quickly. The ocean was beautiful with rocks, surfers, breaking waves, nice beach towns, and we even passed through a working fishing village. All beautiful in its own way. And then, after lunch .... the wind started. For most of the next 10 miles we had headwinds of 17 - 23 miles an hour! It made walking a lot harder. There was a stretch of about 3 miles near the end that was barren, nothing around except sand dunes on either side of the boardwalk. The wind was at 23 mph then and we were getting sandblasted! It was like walking across the desert.

    We thought we were going to walk 18 miles today but somehow did 21! I don't know how we miscalculated so badly. Even so, we are not feeling too bad. We must be getting stronger. Though this trail is less popular, there are many more pilgrims now than in the first half of the trip. We didn't spend much time with any of them yet but today we met two people from Italy, and some from Germany, and Poland.    Baca lagi

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  • Camino Portuguese
    Hari 23

    Day 18 - to Esposende

    13 Mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    This was our easiest walk yet - exactly 15 miles and no hills. A bit windy near the end but not bad - and no sand storm. We really weren't even tired when finishing.

    Part of the walk was right along the beach while other parts were through towns and green spaces. We passed by a golf course that was just off the beach and saw a few football matches.

    For several hours, we were accompanied by 29 year old Oleh from the Ukraine. Oleh is living and working in Munich. He went there to complete his master's and then got a job. When the war in Ukraine started, his father lost his job. It was decided that Oleh would stay in Germany to work and help support his family in the Ukraine while his 59 year old father serves in the artillery of Ukraine's army. He can not go back to Ukraine. From this mother's perspective, it breaks my heart. He is walking the Camino looking for an emotional respite as the last year has been emotionally very difficult for him.

    We had lunch at a cafe in Fao, just a short distance before we stopped for the day. The owner was quite friendly and even provided his card with phone number in the event we needed help. Right before leaving, he decorated 2 stones as souvenirs.    Baca lagi

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  • Camino Portuguese
    1
    Hari 24

    Churches,, churches, churches

    14 Mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    This is a very small percentage of all of the churches, religious monuments, and vigils that we have seen. The best part is that all of the churches in the center of the town play their bells on the hour and some on the quarter hour. They sound beautiful.Baca lagi

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  • Camino Portuguese
    11
    Hari 24

    Day 19 Esposende to Viana do Castelo

    14 Mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Today was 17 miles through suburban, cobble stone roads, some forests, and some country roads with pigs, cows, and goats, and past a lot of churches. While beautiful, it was a rather boring day. We moveed inland a little because the coast path is beaten up, so that brought warmer weather and hills. There are many pilgrims on the road and we pass each other often wishing each other Bom Camino. - good journey. Many people are in groups or couples, and some travel alone. It is fun when you see people traveling alone pair up, chat and giggle for a few miles, friends being made.

    Our room is near the water and we had a drink by the river in this cute town. Then we went in search of something to eat and found... the golden arches! Yes, we found McDonald's in a mall only minutes from our room. And we enjoyed every bite with beer! Don't judge, we have eaten a lot of Portuguese food. Lol.    Baca lagi

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  • Camino Portuguese
    Hari 25

    Day 20 Viana do Castelo to Caminha

    15 Mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    It is our last day in Portugal. Tomorrow we cross over into Spain. Portugal did not disappoint on its final day of 17 miles. We started through cobble stoned country roads between large walls. Behind the walls were fields, gardens, even houses with the old wall as part of the house. Then we hit some forests with large stones and eucalyptus trees. As we moved through this varied views, we frequently hat views of the seas. Finally we ended with a beautiful walk along the coast with a small breeze.

    We met some ladies from the Philadelphia area - Charlene and Jen - and walked with them for a few miles and a girl from the Netherlands. Getting to talk with others makes the walk go faster. They stopped for the day before we did and we probably won't see them again, but it was a nice afternoon.    Baca lagi

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  • Camino Portuguese
    Hari 26

    Day 21 Caminha to Viladesuso - Oia

    16 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Our first day in Spain! We took a water taxi across the river to reach the Spanish border where we hiked 13.5 miles. The boat driver hit a rock or something as we started our but no apparent damage. We hiked through some forests and roads but always within view of the ocean. The last couple of miles were through fields near the rocky coast. The weather was in the 70's and there was a slight breeze most of the day making for delightful hiking.

    Last night at dinner we met Brianna and Chris from Boston. It is Chris's first Camino but it is Brianna's 4th. She is 75 years old. She did her first Camino at the age of 65. She had a year where she battled and beat a type of cancer and then decided to walk some more, feeling blessed that she can. We spent several miles walking together today. She walks faster than we do (and Chris too, as she left him behind!).

    Our hotel is right near the water so we wandered down to the rocks and soaked our feet (and maybe a little more) in the ocean for a little therapy. Hearing the ocean all day and then again as we go to sleep is therapy too!    Baca lagi

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  • Camino Portuguese
    Hari 27

    Day 22 - to A Ramallosa

    17 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Easy, peasy day -- just a little over 12 miles under sunny skies. We split our time right along the coast and up and over some wooded hills.

    We hiked some with Brianna (age 75) again, along with Chris and Christy from New Braunfels, TX. They had hiked the Frances back in 2019. Their collegiate athlete daughter hiked the first week with them back in 2019 but her feet got so bad they had to send her home.

    We went a long way without any cafes but were able to stop for a nice lunch and beverage with our companions.

    Today was a day of horses and bikes. We passed a lot of horses to this morning, then a lot of bikers, and then later a bike race.

    Once settled in our room, we headed out to the patio door a beer and some trip planning, making additional reservations.

    Dinner was pizza and wine , with a short walk along the beach planned yet. Wine and beer have been staples. It could be because we are in beach areas but based on 2 days in Spain, restaurant prices appear significantly higher than Portugal.    Baca lagi

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  • Camino Portuguese
    Hari 28

    Day 23 to Vigo

    18 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Another easy day of about 13 miles either along the coast or within view of the ocean up until we entered the city of Vigo where we went through an area with working shipyards. The weather was perfect, in the 70's, with a nice breeze. The beaches have been beautiful and surprising. There are topless and totally nude beaches here. ( Zoom in if interested.)

    We walked with two German ladies for a while. One of them had heard of the Camino and wanted to do it. She left her husband at home because he works too much and decided to come alone. She said, as we have heard before, I came alone, but I'm never alone. The two of them caught a bus at lunchtime since they were both having foot issues.

    Note: Eileen took the beach photos.

    After settling into our room, we went out into the square and listened to music while we drank beer and watched the people pass by.    Baca lagi

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  • Camino Portuguese
    1
    Hari 29

    Day 24 Vigo to Redondela

    19 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Vigo is a rather large city and the first 2 miles were through the edge of town. Imagine walking for 2.5 miles through Oakland or South Side going slightly uphill the entire way. Not very exciting. After getting through town we went straight up and then hit some beautiful forest and country areas with the ocean within view for part of the time.

    It was a short day of only about 11 miles and our last day on the coastal trail. Now we meet up with all of the pilgrims traveling on the central path. There is a cafe where the two trails come together and there were many pilgrims there. We met a young man from Lisbon who is doing the Camino backwards from Santiago to Lisbon. Today was the first day that we didn't see any country animals. :(    Baca lagi

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  • Camino Portuguese
    11
    Hari 30

    Day 25 to Pontevedra

    20 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    12.5 miles today along some country roads and through a lot of wooded areas. It was a beautiful day to hike, in the 70's with a breeze, and beautiful scenery. The nicest day we've had since we left the coast.

    There are many more pilgrims on the trail since the two different paths merged. It is not crowded, but you can always see people in front of you and behind you. It is also an opportunity for locals to sell things along the way making it a little tacky. There was a long stretch through the woods without any where to stop and one local took advantage of it by selling fruit and drinks and set up places to sit. It was a popular place .

    Today we met Alek from Perth, Australia and walked with him for a few hours. He worked in land management and then at the age of 50 he went back to get his PhD in Environmental Science. He said it was the best thing he ever did. You are never too old to do something new, I guess! Nice guy and he knew all about the plants in the area.

    We also learned about two things that we have seen a lot but didn't know what they were.
    The first is a Horreo - a small building found in farms and most country yards. It is a grainery used to store corn, grains, and root vegetables. It is on pedestal legs so rodents can't get to the food and has vents to keep the food from molding. The oldest one dates back to the 13th century.
    The second is a lavior - a public washing area. They are big squares filled with water usually from a spring or other water source and have a covered roof. People used to wash their clothes there. These date back to at least the 17th century. They are in every older town. We did see one lady washing some towels in one.

    We didn't get our full of walking during the day so we probably walked another 2 miles or so during late afternoon and evening exploring the town.

    Only three walking days left!    Baca lagi

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