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Aussie Brothers’ Camino

September - October 2022
We walked the 800 km Camino Frances from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in SW France over the Pyrenees and across the rolling hills of northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela, the capital of Galicia in NW Spain. Read more
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  • Aussie Brothers’ Camino

    Navarrete to Alesanco

    September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Today was another early start about an hour and a half before dawn, after breakfasting on some things we bought in the supermarket.

    8km of walking found us in Ventosa where we found much needed coffee and croissants.

Today was cloudy so we were spared the hot sun after noon.

    Another 8km found us in Nájera where we stopped for lunch.

    So far we’d been walking almost entirely through vineyards, some of them very large, extending over the horizon. We noticed the older vines are very sturdy and self supporting.

    From Nájera it was a somewhat unpleasant 8km trudge on bitumen roads to our pensión in Alesanco. It is slightly off the Camino but it had a room available for us.

    We walked to the pub in the center of town and drank a couple of radlers (beer with lemon, like a shandy) at an outside table and watched the passing parade. It is a very rural town and there was a constant parade of tractors pulling big bins of just-harvested grapes to one of the town’s wine makers.

    Right on 7pm it seemed as though all the townspeople descended on the pub to chat, play cards, have a drink or a snack. We couldn’t find a restaurant open so made dinner with the pub snacks, called pinchos.

    Back at our pensión we met a young German couple with 12 month old child who are cycling the Camino with a tow-along baby carriage. They had started from their home in Leipzig. They told us they had previously ridden from Perth to Melbourne in Australia.    Read more

  • Aussie Brothers’ Camino

    Alesanco to Grañón

    September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    After a very good night’s sleep at the Pensión Jauja and self served breakfast of coffee, toast and home-made cake we left as soon as there was enough light to see our way, i.e. about dawn at 7:45am.

    Gerard Mc. tried to phone so we returned his call from Jindera where he was watching the AFL Grand Final. Geelong well ahead at half time.

    Today’s 23km walk was in 3 equal sized segments. First part was a walk down the road to rejoin the Camino path, followed by a good path up to Cirueña, rising about 200m in altitude.

    About an hour in it started to rain so we deployed hitherto unused matching mustard coloured ponchos which kept us dry in the very light rain. Coffee and tortillas at the Bar Jacobeo in Cirueña were well worth the 300m detour off-Camino. When we finished there the rain had stopped.

    From there it was a gentle mostly downhill run on a wide path to Santo Domingo de la Calzada (“Saint Dominic of the paved path”). It’s an ancient town that grew up around the hermitage of Dominic Garcia (not Guzman who founded the Dominican order). Back around 1000 he apparently built bridges and paths to facilitate travel to Santiago and is the patron saint of Spanish civil engineers.

    Yesterday was mostly through wine country but today was mostly through wheat country: huge already harvested fields of brown or yellow depending on whether the stubble had been ploughed in or not. It was a very wide and beautiful landscape, with occasional enormous stacks of hay bales.

    In the center of Santo Domingo we stopped for a sandwich and a drink and aired our feet for about an hour.

    Our third segment took us up slightly in altitude to Grañón. Rain set in and got quite heavy for the last 3km as we reached Grañón; the ponchos were deployed again.

    There was some confusion about how to get the key to the apartment we had booked. I (K) had failed to notice an email with very brief instructions in Spanish. I phoned the owner and asked him to resend the email. He did so and all was fine. Just had to collect the key a block away.

    We’re living it up in a 2-bedroom 2-bathroom modern apartment with a washing machine. We will step out later for a proper feed after last night’s meagre rations. The rain has stopped.    Read more

  • Aussie Brothers’ Camino

    Grañón to Belorado

    September 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    A short day today of 16km, to be followed by a rest day. We left our apartment as the sun rose a bit before 8am. Hiking shoes had largely dried out overnight. We found the “My Way” bar/cafe in the main street opposite the church, open for business so had some breakfast there. We’d also had dinner there last night. Good food. Place is run by a Peruvian family.

    As we left town there was luscious golden morning light over the path of the Camino we would follow. The rain had cleaned the air and mountains back behind us were very clearly visible, no haze. Also as we left a small fleet of fan powered paragliders took off from Grañón heading up the Camino. Weather was coolish so long pants and long sleeves, at least for the first 2 hours. Early in the walk we crossed over from the province of La Rioja to that of Castille-Leon. This is our 3rd and largest province.

    We stopped for fresh squeezed OJ, coffee and snacks at a “donativo” in one of the villages. You give a donation in exchange for what you eat. Then on to Belorado mostly on hard packed wide dirt track. Checked into our room in the hotel “A Santiago” and had some lunch. Later on a very good Pilgrim’s dinner for two of us; 3 courses, all substantial and tasty, and a bottle of red for 24€.

    Our rest day is to give our legs and feet a chance to complete their recovery from a few niggles. Last night’s hostel was not available so we have moved to Hotel Jacabeo in the centre of Belorado. It felt good to walk only 1km for the day. As we entered the town square several stall holders were setting up for the day’s market. We strolled around the still deserted old town until we could replenish essentials at the farmacia then returned to the square for coffee and people watching.

    We don’t really expect to see people we have met along the way because we are comparatively slow. But we did see Chris who we have crossed paths with several times and a French girl we had met in Torres del Rio. A quick chat and they continued on the Way. Chatting over coffee Chris and John realised they share a birthday.

    We have an early start and 27km to cover tomorrow so we got breakfast supplies from the supermarket before the siesta close.

    Feeling good after a rest day and good pilgrims dinner (low fixed price 3 course + wine) at the restaurant inside the Cuatro Cantones albergue. We shared a table and a good yarn with a Swedish couple from Stockholm. He is 75 and she 65. Going all the way to Santiago.    Read more

  • Aussie Brothers’ Camino

    Belorado to Santovenia de Oca

    September 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

    Today was a longer one, about 28km. Accommodation was scarce so the best we found to book was a bunk bed in a dormitory style albergue 3km off the Camino in Santovenia de Oca.

    We started at 7am after an improvised coffee-free breakfast in our room. John’s headlamp was necessary till about 8am to see the path.

    About 1 km out we were overtaken by our Swedish dinner companions from last night, Hans and Katerina. After a few sleepy villages we finally found coffee in Espinosa del Camino.

    The path continued wide and flat to Villafranca Montes de Oca. From there it was a long and quite steep climb up to an altitude of 1150 meters.

    Then it was about 12km through forest with no sign of habitation or cars all the way to San Juan de Ortega. We saw many signs warning us not to pick mushrooms, expressed in at least 4 different ways.

    A sandwich for lunch in San Juan preceded an hour’s walk up the road to Santovenia. It is a nice clean modern albergue, with bunks in a dorm for about 12 people.

    Lots of large fields of sunflowers were seen along the way, mostly harvested, surrounded by fallow wheat fields. Also a few sheep at one point.

    After ablutions we had a beer in the courtyard out the front with a Pom, Steve from Manchester, traveling with his wife.

    We enjoyed a good pilgrim’s meal in the albergue by the charming but overworked lady running the place.    Read more

  • Aussie Brothers’ Camino

    Santovenia de Oca to Burgos

    September 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We left our albergue about 7am still dark, heading for Burgos, 22.7km away.

    No food or coffee were available until we reached Ibeas de Juarros after about 8km. There was an excellent bar there serving fresh squeezed orange juice, pastries and great coffee so we lingered for half an hour or so.

    The rest of the day was a fairly dull trudge into Burgos, a city of 200,000 or so and the provincial capital.

    We were right beside the main road until Castañares, which seems to be an outer suburb. There we left the main road and found the route that follows the river all the way to central Burgos. It began as a fairly rough dirt track and ended up a wide sealed footpath traversing quite a few kilometers of parkland into Burgos.

    We have a 1-room apartment almost in the shadow of the 13th century gothic Cathedral de Burgos.

    Dinner was very good at the Rincón restaurant a short step from where we are staying. We bumped into Chris from Utah and had a yarn.

    We’re hoping the walk out of Burgos is less tedious than the walk in. We have completed about 1/3 of the way to Santiago. Tomorrow we enter what is called the Meseta region.    Read more

  • Aussie Brothers’ Camino

    Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

    September 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Today we covered 21km, which is in our comfort range of about a half-marathon per day.

    We left Burgos about 8am after an improvised breakfast in our room of juice, yoghurt, cereal cookies and a massive chocolate croissant, determined to avoid running low on fuel like we probably did late yesterday.

    It was a pleasant walk of about 5km to the edge of Burgos. First through the central cathedral area, then along the river walkway for a while, and finally through the University of Burgos precinct as 9am lectures were about to start. The university has some very old and some very modern buildings.

    There is a killing to be made parking a food/coffee truck right there but, alas no coffee there as we passed through. Sadly we had to walk another 7km to Tardajos before we could self-caffeinate. We stopped for coffee and a sandwich/tortilla there.

    We were sad to find we would not be in Tardajos for the annual “Day of exaltation of the potato” on October 2 but we intend to be there in spirit on the 2nd.

    Then it was 2km or so to the village of Rabe de las Calzadas, which has lots of very large murals painted on the sides of buildings, many illustrating a bible quote.

    Leaving Rabe it was quite a steep climb on a wide dirt track for several kilometers to a ridge with many wind turbines. It became fairly windy and rainy in the ascent so the ponchos were donned again. I think we reached an altitude of about 940m above sea level.

    Then things flattened out and the weather cleared nicely as Hornillos del Camino was revealed a few km away, tucked into the next valley.

    We checked into Casa del Abuelo. It is very good and has a bar where we downed a couple of beers. Also here are 3 generations of an New Zealand family, doing the Camino with two infants in pushers. Hats off to them.

    Every day here the San Román church offers a Mass and blessing for pilgrims so we attended. Many countries represented. It was nicely done by a priest with a very good singing voice.    Read more

  • Aussie Brothers’ Camino

    Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz

    September 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Tonight we sleep in Castrojeriz on the Spanish Meseta, a town which has had some human presence for 4000 years. A beautiful ancient town built on the slopes of a hill topped by a castle. See the photo.

    Todays walk was in two halves, each equally beautiful. We left Hornillos at first light and walked the first 11km on an easy gravel path across a classic featureless Meseta landscape under a cool cloudy sky. Perfect walking conditions. Contemplative. We lunched in Hontanas, a classic Camino village at the halfway mark. Hontanas is 700+ years old and in a tiny valley in the Meseta landscape. The cloud cleared after lunch and we walked most of the way to Castrojeriz through the valley of the river called Arroyo del Garbanzuelo. It is a completely different landscape to the high plains. Many trees both conifer and deciduous. We stopped for a rest and drink just short of Castrojeriz at the long abandoned Convento de San Antón.

    We have encountered a three generation group of New Zealanders comprising grandparents, married children and a couple of toddlers over the last few days and are staying at the same hotel tonight. Very nice people and coping well with the needs of travelling the Camino with little ones.

    After 2 weeks plus walking 20km+ most days our bodies seem to have become somewhat accustomed to the rigours of the Camino. Kevin’s knees are now doing their job better than before leaving Boston and my (J) dodgy feet are cooperating as long as I do my post walk stretches. I must admit to including anti inflammatory meds as an essential food group for the next few weeks.    Read more

  • Aussie Brothers’ Camino
    1

    Castrojeriz to Frómista

    October 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 4 °C

    Today was a 26km day, bigger than we prefer. It was mostly shadeless and sunny all day but at least it was not too hot. I wouldn’t enjoy it in August.

    We left Castrojeriz about 8am after breakfast where we stayed, at the Hotel Iacobus.

    2km west of town there was a steep climb rising 150m vertical in a 12% grade to get to the top of the Alto de Mostelares. Very good heart starter, was that climb. We paused to catch our breath and admire the views.

    Then it was a steep 80m descent down the other side into more meseta-like countryside.

    We stopped for a snack at a donativo truck (“pay what you think it is worth”) parked at a shaded rest area, then on into Itero de la Vega for lunch.

    Soon after lunch we crossed a river and entered the province of Palencia from that of Burgos. Two more provinces after Palencia on this walk: Leon and Galicia.

    A shadeless march took us into Boadilla del Camino where a cold drink and a foot airing were needed.

    From the outskirts of Boadilla to Frómista we walked beside a section of the Castilian Canal, an 18th century transport project. It was fairly well shaded most of the way by rows of tall trees.

    We checked into the Oasibeth hotel rural, which is a nice place. We enjoyed an excellent fixed price 3 course dinner in the hotel restaurant.

    A rest day in Frómista to give our well worn feet and legs a chance to refresh and to celebrate Kevin’s birthday. It I was nice to sleep in, have a leisurely breakfast and catch up on a few domestic chores like washing hiking clothes.

    Being Sunday we attended Mass at the Gothic 15th century church of San Pedro. The rather long Spanish sermon didn’t do much for us.

    We ate dinner tonight again at our hotel with several other pilgrims. We first met Levana way back in Zubiri and Chris in Los Arcos and have have crossed paths with each at various points along the Way. By far the fittest at the table was 76 year old Allen from the Peak District in the UK who is averaging 40km plus per day.    Read more

  • Aussie Brothers’ Camino

    Frómista to Carrión de los Condes

    October 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

    After a good breakfast at the excellent Oasibeth hotel rural we left at 8:30, not long after dawn.

    On the one hand it was not a long walk, about 21km, on a wide smooth path with no major climbs or descents.

    On the other hand it was bloody tedious, gunbarrel-straight for long sections and parallel to a main road, almost completely devoid of shade except for two village stops, one for morning tea (Coca Cola and hard boiled egg - need that protein and salt), and one for lunch (spaghetti bolognese, boccadillo, foot airing).

    Finally a mind numbing, shadeless 6km trudge into Carrión de los Condes.

    We stopped under the first tree we found and enjoyed the shade. Looks like a nice city. Many bars and restaurants.

    We have a great apartment on the Camino just where it leaves town, Casa Tía Paula. Two rooms! We can give the earplugs an evening off. Washing machine! We can look our best and smell less awful on the track tomorrow.

    The day greatly improved after a shower and a beer in the pub in the center of town.

    The food options were good. We dined at the Corte with fellow pilgrims Levana and Chris. The menu del dia (3 course, fixed price) was good value.    Read more

  • Aussie Brothers’ Camino

    Carrión de los Condes to Ledigos

    October 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    With about 23km to cover today we rose early and walked out of Carrión by head torch a little after 7:00. It was pleasant walking in the cool 8 degrees C in the cloudless pre-dawn.

    It wasn’t long before an issue John had experienced yesterday returned: an increasing involuntary lean to the left and slight muscle weakness. After 16km he called it a day at Calzadilla de La Cueza and caught a taxi to our albergue in Ledigos. Kevin walked the final few kilometers. The problem is almost certainly dehydration which will be easily fixed but some expert advice in Sahagún tomorrow should help.

    One of the pleasures of the Camino is meeting and chatting with people from all over the world and encountering them again and again further along the Way. We are fortunate that the common language among the pilgrims is English. It is not commonly spoken by the Spanish people but they are very forgiving of our efforts.

    The Meseta from Burgos to Leon (about 180km) is renowned for challenging pilgrims with its never ending featureless landscape. It is Spain’s wheat bowl with 40C+ temperatures in the summer. We found it less featureless and more interesting than some of the wheat growing areas of Australia. However the ever constant sun, even in the autumn has been wearing.    Read more

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