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Camino Frances

agosto - octubre 2019
Una aventura de 46 días de The Big Adventure Leer más
  • 46huellas
  • 3países
  • 46días
  • 4fotos
  • 0videos
  • 662kilómetros
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  • ViajeroCamino Frances
    Día 46

    Epilogue

    14 de octubre de 2019, Estados Unidos ⋅ 🌙 86 °F

    In Flight
    Our time on the Camino has come to an end. Trying to put it in perspective starts with looking at why we were drawn to do it in the first place. I was intrigued by the challenge and adventure, wondering what I would find. Mike saw it as a celebration of life, feeling the joy of being able to do this as an affirmation of all the blessings in our lives. What was the final verdict? Did we have the big Shazam of life altering experiences? Reflecting on our Camino experience will take time, particularly given its abrupt ending. As I sit on the plane traveling at a speed far in excess of the past 6 weeks, I feel truly blessed to have had the opportunity to slow down, savor life, and renew a sense of what is truly important in the greater scheme. To develop an appreciation for the small, subtle things like a mid-morning café con leche, a smile, nod or words of encouragement from a fellow pilgrim, or a guaranteed bed at the end of the day is a privilege. Waking up each morning and witnessing glorious sunrises as the day comes to life is a priceless treasure. To walk by yourself yet never alone, we're honored to feel the presence of family and friends walking with us in spirit. We've connected with fellow pilgrims from all over the world, sharing an experience and communicating despite language barriers. We are all traveling this planet and time together, like it or not, and it's high time to set aside our differences and make it work. If only each of us would climb on board with faith, persistence and tolerance, we could build a better future.Leer más

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  • ViajeroCamino Frances
    Día 45

    We made it!

    13 de octubre de 2019, España ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    Santiago de Compostella, Spain
    We were not looking forward to the final leg of the Camino. We only had 16.6 kilometers (10.3 miles) to go, but anticipated a slog as the weather forecast called for 100% rain starting at 0200 and continuing for several days with the possibility of flooding. We briefly considered napping for a few hours and continuing on yesterday, but we were just too tired to keep going. Besides, this is why we have ponchos! At least our place was starting breakfast service at 0630, so we could have something substantial to eat prior to starting out. Sure enough, we woke up to a steady drizzle. Made the usual last-minute email message check before leaving to ensure everything was in order and got the message that my aunt had died. We practically flew out the door and made our way to Santiago de Compostela as quickly as possible. Since we'd already had our coffee at breakfast, we only made one quick stop for orange juice and didn't even bother to take our packs off. We dodged puddles and small rivers on the trail and covered the distance in less time than it took me to run the Army Ten Miler back in 2005, sans backpack. We were thrilled to see familiar faces of Camino friends at the pilgrims office in Santiago de Compostela, and to find out we'd made it in time to get our compostela (certificate of completion) today. Then the real challenge began, coordinating with airlines and family to get back. Thank heavens for my sister Joan, who filled in the lodging and transportation piece in North Carolina. Having faith that it would all fall in place, we finally fell into bed exhausted.Leer más

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  • ViajeroCamino Frances
    Día 44

    Santiago or Bust

    12 de octubre de 2019, España ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    Amenal, Spain
    We left Arzua on a wing and a prayer this morning, even the roosters weren't up but the cats were rounding up the last of their nightly field mice conquests. We were armed with headlamps and iPhones. Mike considered retracing yesterday's steps, but we already had a long hike (25+ kilometers) without adding to it. I plugged tonight's lodging address into google maps and off we went, skirting farms and country houses on the backroads. Mike used the Camino app to verify progress towards the official trail. We were tracking right along when Cujo and his brother appeared out of nowhere. Mike quickly shifted his poles to the ready position, but it turned out the dogs were just keeping things in order since the usual little old Spanish ladies were not up yet. We passed without incident and connected with the trail farther down the hill. We spent the day walking through eucalyptus forests. Still haven't spotted any koalas. We passed a large tour bus parked at a crossroads. Looks like the Grand Circle Camino tour, dropping tourists off to have a go at the Camino before picking them up and whisking them off to luxury accommodations for the night. After 760+ kilometers on the Camino with multiple nights in questionable lodging, sure sounds good to me. We've also encountered students on fall break walking sections as a group, like the field trip of all field trips. We've heard that young folks try to get the Compostela to pad resumes, similar to our Eagle Scout. To each his own. A couple of hills, rivers and villages as well as the requisite café con leche, we made it to Amenal, our last stop before Santiago de Compostela.Leer más

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  • ViajeroCamino Frances
    Día 43

    Are we there yet?

    11 de octubre de 2019, España ⋅ 🌫 63 °F

    Arzua, Spain
    We decided to head straight for the Camino this morning and skip the trek past all the churches in town and up the hill. It only seemed like the thing to do as I'd "been there done that" while exploring town yesterday afternoon. We had a pleasant all downhill jaunt out of town and into the woods by ourselves in the dark. Just as Mike remarked that we had the trail all to ourselves (markers confirmed we were on the right path) we came upon a river and a trio trying to walk across very large, uneven steppingstones. The fellow in front was struggling, and the 2 behind were trying to shine a light to help. The first pilgrim almost made it across before losing his balance and falling off near the end. Turns out he was not with the next 2, and they were a bit abrupt with his lack of adequate lighting and progress. They took off up the hill and we jumped in to see what we could do. The poor fellow was an 81 year old French Canadian man from Quebec who spoke little English or Spanish. We helped him to his feet, got his pack and gear back in order, then took his arm and guided him up the hill. He told us his wife of 35 years had died in April and he had left Canada 5 September to walk the Camino. He was planning on walking all the way to Finisterre, visiting the basilicas along the way. He also hoped to spend time in Madrid and Paris visiting art museums before heading home in November. We walked together until our first coffee stop when he chose to continue after thanking us profusely for our help. Wow, 2 years of high school French really came in handy. We were in desperate need of our first café con leche of the day, plus who could pass by a place named No Camino? Refueled, we hit the trail once more, this time running into Hector and Walesa. We walked together for a while comparing notes. We aren't in a hurry as today is supposed to be a short day, only 14 kilometers, which is like a rest day at this point. We made it to Arzua well before noon and settled in for arrival beverages. When I fired up the phone to locate our lodging, we had a very rude awakening. Seems the place was 4 kilometers north of town and back the way we had come. Those nuns got us again for skipping a hill and church. Mike needs to get a better travel agent as being way out of town and in the wrong direction was not welcome news, especially considering that tomorrow was already slated to be one of our longer days. We located our lodging, dropped off the backpacks and went exploring. Not much out here other than a 17th century historic hospedia across the street that has been lovingly restored into a luxury hotel and restaurant that actually starts serving dinner at 7. That's the Spanish equivalent of the early bird special! We made dinner reservations and headed back to check into our place. A shower and laundry later, we had a quick lunch of salad and grilled scallops before settling in for some rest.Leer más

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  • ViajeroCamino Frances
    Día 42

    Different Flavors

    10 de octubre de 2019, España ⋅ 🌙 57 °F

    Melide, Spain
    We thought we were in good shape for our departure in the dark from Palas de Rei this morning. The clue should have been yesterday at lunch when we sat at a corner café watching the blank stare of pilgrims straggling down the steps from the church and looking for Camino signs. The arrows were posted around the corner on the side of the building not visible to them. We were like traffic cops gesturing to send them in the right direction. Our turn was this morning at the edge of town, when a highly visible arrow took us to the left in the direction of the last albergue and we missed a barely visible small arrow to the right. About 100 meters out of town, something just didn't feel right. We were going uphill when the guide said we'd be heading down, and there was a conspicuous absence of pilgrims ahead or behind. The granite markers that had been practically every 5 meters yesterday were also missing. We backtracked to the last visible sign and started over. Sure enough, we found that concealed arrow and got back on track. The sun came up by the time we arrived in Casanova, a must stop for pictures, coffee and a stamp on the credencial. Not much else to see, so carried on. The Camino has taken on a very different flavor since Sarria, less of a pilgrimage and more of a touristy vibe. Tour buses drop folks off at major intersections, looking well rested and well dressed, not exuding the "I've been wearing these 2 shirts for the last month and can't wait to burn them" attitude. I'll bet their trail shoes even still have tread. As you pass through little towns, taxi signs are prominently displayed everywhere... a rarity before. No matter. As the newcomers saunter along the trail, we just blow on by walking with a purpose. We have our Camino on! There are still a few familiar faces. We are delighted to see Everett is still at it, his shin splints manageable at this point. Hector and Walesa, fellow Army retirees we met back in Leon, seem to be on the same schedule. We traded foot care tips and supplies as Hector just lost a toenail. We made it to Melide in time for a lunch of the most scrumptious grilled Galician scallops served under a kiwi fruit trellis. Feeling refreshed, we went to find our lodging. My heart fell when I saw the sign on the dilapidated corner building with a sagging roof. Our night at the truck stop was one thing, but this is way beyond "suck it up Buttercup". Fortunately the corner building was only serving as signage and the albergue was a few doors down.Leer más

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  • ViajeroCamino Frances
    Día 41

    Passing Thoughts

    9 de octubre de 2019, España ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Palas de Rei, Spain
    Leaving before daybreak has its advantages. The stillness of the morning followed by the sounds of the earth coming to life is the most wonderful music to the ears. Watching mist rising in the fields is an experience to savor. Our path through the forest gave way to meadows and little clusters of buildings that pass for towns. While it is easy to zone out with your own thoughts, observing the surroundings provides delightful surprises when you take the time to notice. Passing through a small farming community, I had to pass around a tractor parked beside a barn. As I passed, I just happened to notice the make. No John Deere tractor here, it was a Lamborghini! Can't begin to imagine what it sounds like when fired up by no doubt a gentleman farmer. More commonly though, are all the different plants growing wild by the side of the trail. Interspersed with weeds has been a plethora of herbs. Dill, rosemary and lavender were common to start. Now they've been joined by thyme, oregano and mint. Today we had a new addition to the forest of chestnut and oak. Copses of eucalyptus trees added perfume to the air. As we passed through Ventas de Naron, we spied Capela a Magdalena, a small chapel built with stones from a collapsed 13th century Templar hospital and dedicated to Mary Magdalene. Curious, I poked my nose in briefly. No pictures allowed and they'd stamp your pilgrim credencial for a fee. Note that everywhere else is happy to stamp your credencial for free. Sounds to me like an attempt to perpetuate her reputation as a member of the world's oldest profession by charging for something others offer for free. Hmmm. Mike pointed out today that we're 90% of the way through our journey. Good thing because the tread on our shoes is getting very worn. That prompted discussion of what we were looking forward to at home and various plans. We both agreed that our shoes and hats would not make the trip home. Perhaps we should have an adios sombreros and zapatos ceremony in Madrid our last night. After 48 days of washing clothes in the sink every night, we'll practically kiss the washer and dryer when we get home. Mike promised he'd only wake me up early 4 more times. On that note, we finished the last of our really long days (25.4 kilometers) in Palas de Rei.Leer más

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  • ViajeroCamino Frances
    Día 40

    We are officially two digit midgets!

    8 de octubre de 2019, España ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Portomarin, Spain
    When we scouted the route last night, the Camino took us right to a city staircase that could have been the inspiration for the stairway to heaven song. Ever resourceful, we found a gentler, kinder route that still involved some serious incline to connect with the Camino. After listening to our new Camino friends talk about their experiences with nuns, Mike has a new theory. He thinks that the route was laid out by the nuns of old, to give those pesky pilgrims ample opportunities for penance. Once outside the city we walked through an enchanted forest with moss covered rock walls lining the path, massive ancient chestnut and oak trees as well as the occasional babbling brook. Disappointed that the dim light meant the camera couldn't do it justice, we tried to engrave it in our memories. Even the sounds of the forest are magical. Speaking of sound, we have grown quite accustomed to the quiet footsteps on the path accompanied by sounds of nature and the land, punctuated by the occasional "hola" and "Buen Camino". We were warned that the peace and quiet would go by the wayside once we got to Sarria. Even so, we weren't quite prepared for the "John Wayne rounding up his posse to go get us some Camino" scenario we encountered at breakfast. We downed breakfast as quickly as we could and hit the trail, hoping to stay ahead of the crowd. We skipped over the first hamlet offering coffee and pressed on to Morgade. We ran into Everett, our Dutch friend, who was having a low spell dealing with shin splints and not sure if he would be able to finish the Camino. After exchanging shin splints tips, we added a pep talk geared towards the school administrator that he is. At this point we are within a week of graduating. Even if we have to crawl on our hands and knees to Santiago, we will make it. He laughed, point well taken. Just past Morgade we went by the 100 kilometers to Santiago marker. That makes it official, we are now 2 digit midgets! Since we entered the Galician region, we noticed a change in the markers. All the others gave distance in kilometers, maybe including one decimal point. The Galician markers spell it out in meters. Guess the message is that as we enter the homestretch, we should savor every meter. We finally made it to Portomarin ahead of the projected rain. Good thing too, as the descent to the river before the city was through a long, steep and rocky ravine, payback for having skipped those steps in Sarria no doubt. We crossed a modern bridge into Portomarin, then climbed a few more staircases up to town. Portomarin has been relocated from its original location on the river. Back in the 50-60's, Franco built a dam to create the Belesar reservoir and hydroelectric plant. The original town was soon submerged, so the townspeople disassembled the church and historic buildings, brought them uphill stone by stone, and reassembled them. You have to admire that dedication to preserving history.Leer más

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  • ViajeroCamino Frances
    Día 39

    Homestretch

    7 de octubre de 2019, España ⋅ 🌙 73 °F

    Sarria, Spain
    We make a point of scouting out the next day's route out of town the night before. It gave us the opportunity to check out an interesting ferriteria, an ancient smithy where pilgrims of old had their horses shod while they had a bite to eat, one stop shopping back in the day. It also made it easier to successfully navigate the turns and crossings of the Camino in the dark before it disappeared into the woods. Headlamps are great, but finding markings is still a challenge. Mike's guidebook said the trail would be flat, so he was rather skeptical about the elevation guide I had from the pilgrims office. The fact that Triacastela is in a valley should have been a clue. We spent most of the morning climbing uphill. Thank heavens we had a great breakfast to start. We were looking for our morning café con leche break when we passed through Fontearcuda and spied what looked like a pilgrim rest stop. Turned out to be a place to get your inner Zen on, but carrot juice with kumbaya is no substitute in our book for the high-test stuff. On to the next hamlet we went. This time a detour of 50 meters had promising signs, until we got to the turn off. At this point no coffee is worth going down a 50 meter flight of stairs which we would then have to climb back up. We pressed on and our efforts were rewarded by a roadside café with café con leche accompanied by a cookie and a beautiful view. The holdout was well worth it. We're walking through farm country, very picturesque with rich brown loamy soil, gardens of all sorts, and livestock grazing in green pastures. Our excitement for the day came on the outskirts of Furela, when we encountered a donkey roaming freely along the side of the road. Looked like he had broken free of his hobbles as he was dragging some sort of strap attached to a hoof. We informed a lady we saw in a nearby garden, but she didn't seem impressed. Perhaps he's a habitual offender. He was happily grazing, so on we went. By midday we made it to Sarria, our destination for the day. Sarria is officially 115.5 kilometers from Santiago, our ultimate goal. It is also the last place to join the Camino and still qualify for the Compostela, a graduation certificate of sorts. Evidently it is a popular place to begin and we expect to encounter a greater number of pilgrims from here on out. To us it represents the beginning of the end and we are on the homestretch. If we can just last 6 more days, we'll be in Santiago!Leer más

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  • ViajeroCamino Frances
    Día 38

    Coming Down the Mountain

    6 de octubre de 2019, España ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Triacastela, Spain
    The mist that seemed so enchanting yesterday was not as welcome this morning. We left O Cebreiro in the dark wearing our headlamps and ponchos as the mist was steady, almost like a fine rain. We were glad we'd scouted out the trail the night before. We were an hour down the trail before the sky became light without any sort of sunrise delight we've come to know. Walking down the hill on wet, leaf covered paths was a tad dicey and we were thankful for our poles. Yesterday we thought we were at the third highest point on the Camino, as hyped in all the literature until the subject of Alto do Poio comes up. While O Cebreiro gets the credit, Alto do Poio is actually 30 feet higher. And of course we had to go down and then up. Leave no hill unclimbed must be the Camino motto. We made multiple stops, fortified by cake and coffee, as we walked through clouds up and down hill. When we finally began our descent down the mountain for real, it was a welcome change from our Cruz de Ferro experience. The path was wide and the descent gradual with spectacular scenery. At one point we were making our way through a little farming community whose road was under construction. As we debated turning versus going straight, a Mother Teresa lookalike beckoned us forward. Gotta love those little old Spanish ladies... they have a way of keeping you straight. She also had a plate in her hand with homemade crepes. She "gave" us one for a donation, and pleased with our generosity, offered to make more. We begged off and continued on. Sometimes you have to share the trail and today we encountered multiple herds of cattle on the move. The first time they were coming at us, so we quickly moved to a side to make sure we didn't get trampled. Then I had an awful thought. Please don't let any of those cows get the urge and lift a tail. Dodging cow pies on the trail is one thing. Not sure I'd ever get the smell out of our clothes if we ended up in the line of fire. Fortunately the herd passed without incident. The second time we encountered a herd, it was on the path in front and going the same way. Was a good time for a break to give them a chance to get to their destination. We made it to Tricastela by early afternoon.Leer más

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  • ViajeroCamino Frances
    Día 37

    Up the Mountain Again

    5 de octubre de 2019, España ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    O Cebreiro, Spain
    Morning mist rose from the valley and descended from the mountains to create a surreal start to the day as the sky gradually lightened. According to a local, the mist will burn off early afternoon. While pretty to see, it's not good for the chestnuts as it burns the fruit and yields smaller nuts. We arrived in Herrerias in time for café con leche and a little exploring. Today's a special day. We are treating ourselves to an experience for well-heeled pilgrims of old and riding horses up the steep hill (third highest point on the Camino) to O Cebreiro. Think of it as a day of rest for our aching feet, though I suspect we'll have pain in other places tomorrow. Our fearless leader is Victor, the spitting image of Antonio Banderas' older brother and a former economist from Madrid who did the Camino years ago. At the time he asked about horses, but there were none. He has since chucked corporate life and has been leading trail rides from Herrerias to O Cebreiro for the last 6 years. Mike saddled up on a mare named Luna, while I drew Babieca, named for El Cid's trusty steed who I suspect was not a gelding. The ascent up the mountain was breathtakingly beautiful on a steep and rocky trail. The horses were slow and steady, picking footing carefully in many places. They've made the trip so many times, they know exactly where to go. Midway up we stopped to water the horses and give them a break as they are working hard. Two hours on horseback and we covered a little over 8 kilometers, which would have taken us at least 3 hours with the incline, not to mention the wear and tear on our bodies. We had time to check in, have arrival beverages, and find a laundry so we don't have to tote around clothes reeking of horse. After a quick lunch we explored the settlement, a collection of buildings and a church with a resident population of 30. O Cebreiro has multiple claims to fame, making it not only a Camino stop but also a tourist destination. It was established as a pilgrim refuge initially, and the Galician natives built sturdy round huts with thatch roofs called pallozas to withstand the harsh elements. A legend about a local priest celebrating mass during which the wine literally turned into blood and the bread became flesh, with claims that the holy grail is here, draws many. This was also home to a priest who regenerated contemporary interest in the Camino by going all over the route in the 1980's, spray painting yellow arrows to mark the way. We ended our day by attending mass with a pilgrim blessing in the little stone church, followed by heading up to a clearing on the hill to watch sunset.Leer más

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