Portalegre

We left Vila Viçosa after a big breakfast and had about a 75 minute drive through the Alentejo to get to the Roman Ruins of Ammaia. I LOVE the Alentejo — small rolling hills with cork, olive, and scrub oak trees all around. The week of rain they’ve had brought another advantage - all the grass was very green, it was so nice.

We got to ruins of Ammaia, at one time a city of 2,000, located right on the Roman Road to Mérida. Excavations are ongoing, only started in 1994, but they have excavated the main gateway (with the main entrance arch being spirited away in the late 1700s), the forum and its Jupiter temple, and the baths. Truth be told, we have seen a lot of more complete ruins, but it is, IMHO, always a treat to walk through and contemplate how long ago it was and how they lived. The museum has a lot of little pieces of things, lots of jewelry, and some headless statues of men with robes, of which you’ve probably seen millions. My favorite were the stones that explained to Jupiter someone’s gratitude for fulfilling a wish/desire/prayer. Lovesio was apparently born a slave and freed, and left his carved stone of thanks near what was the altar. I thought Joe should leave some carvings on behalf of the other Loves in our family. Joe did great, and only gave my arm two or three black and blue marks.

We spent almost all afternoon in Castelo de Vide. It was market day, so parking was tough, but we managed. After lunch of a good salad and sandwich, we walked up to the castle, which opened about 3 minutes after our arrival. Dumb luck. I don’t know what it is with me and castles, but I can’t resist climbing up every step to every tower or lookout point. Joe patiently sat in the keep’s courtyard and waved every time my head popped out.

Castelo de Vide had a very large Jewish population and their Judería is really very pretty and well preserved. Tough up and down walking for Joe, on cobblestone streets, but in addition to my arm, there was a railing down the center so he was supported on both sides. There is what is thought to have been a synagogue, but I think the experts are not all convinced.

By 5:00 Joe was taking a nap in our very nice “estalagem” and I embarked on a 90 minute trip through the castle. Marvao Castle has always been one of my very favorites and today was great. So much to climb, so many different vantage points, so many series of embedded walls and protected lookouts. The views are just amazing, and I was there till a few minutes before sunset.

Our estalagem also owns one of the best restaurants in town, Varanda do Alentejo, and it’s right across the street, so we will eat there. Now that I’ve checked out the castle thoroughly, I can bring Joe back tomorrow to the places that are most accessible for him, and he will not have to sit and watch me climb!Read more