Spain
Palas de Rey

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    • Day 43

      Palas de Rei

      October 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Day 39 - quick note to tell you that I’m in Palas de Rei. Four more days and I’ll be in Santiago. As I was walking past a cafe my friend Anna hailed me, she was having lunch with none other than Carsten ( the German I meet at least once a day). So I walked the rest of the way with them. When we reached Palas de Rei, we stopped at a bar for beer. In time Dr Steve and the Aussies joined us and we sat chatting and whiling away the time. It’s a bit like ‘senior-ites’ that high school kids get when they have been accepted into college and don’t need to study anymore.
      This post is really about nothing - I will try to write something more meaningful tomorrow.
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    • Day 37

      Stage 34: Portomarin-Palas de Rei

      October 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      I didn't post yesterday so getting caught up.
      24.8 km/15.4 miles, around 60° all day, 9 hours
      Left Portomarin in the dark and pouring rain, first real rain I've encountered in 34 days of walking, other than some light sprinkles. A true test of one's resolve. It stopped about 10:30, followed by intermittent sun breaks, strong wind and sprinkles. My boots were completely sodden though, with squishy socks, thankfully the feet survived intact. I had some short gaiters I tucked my pants into- big mistake. The poncho worked quite well at keeping my upper half dry but only comes down to about my knees, so below that my pants became soaked and seeped into my socks. Solution- some rain pants purchased at a tiny sporting goods store in Palas de Rei. I stayed in La Cabaña, a rustic resort about a kilometer before the town, as did a delightful couple from Denmark Jens and Kirsten, who I first met in Fromista. We hiked into town for dinner then met up again Thursday in Melide heading to Arzua.Read more

    • Portomarín to Palas de Rei

      October 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      27km and soggy again.

      The rain in Spain falls mainly in Galicia. And the rain in Galicia falls mainly on Kevin and John.

      An excellent breakfast at our Portomarín hotel and an increasingly late sunrise meant we didn’t get walking until 8:15 and it was still dark. We also knew from the great Spanish weather app that we would be in for rain from midday.

      We walked through the full length of Portomarín then across the river accompanied by the most pilgrims we had seen leaving predawn. Most will have started their Camino yesterday in Sarria which at 113km is the closest starting point at which pilgrims can obtain the Compostela.

      We climbed steadily from an overnight 400m to around 600m when it started raining and continued steadily for three hours as we climbed to 720m. Seeking some respite and warmth we called into Casa Mariluz in Agaete for the restorative effects of Galician soup.

      On the track again we briefly experienced the heaviest rain of the day before the sun reappeared and thawed us out as we completed the last 8km into Palas de Rei.

      Like yesterday we had 3.5 hours of quite heavy rain while walking. But the soup break fortified us for further trudging, and the sunny conditions late in the day lifted our spirits and made a small start on drying out sodden footwear.

      We checked into Pensión San Marcos and it is just great: modern clean and comfortable. They cater well for pilgrims with an urgent need to wash and dry stuff. Oodles of clothesline space in the sun, and heating radiators in the room that are turned on !!

      The pensión is massive, discreetly scattered over several buildings just a block or two from the middle of town.

      Based on Google reviews we had dinner at Pulperia A Nosa Terra. The kitchen opened at 7pm and the place is just a tiny bar so we cleverly squatted at a table at 6:20 and had a cleansing radler before requesting a menu. Dinner was very good. Kevin satisfied his craving for pulpo (octopus) and John had pork tenderloin prepared nicely, washed down with a good temperanillo, crepes, espresso. The place seemed to be very well run by just 3-4 people. Terrific Galician food.
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    • Day 38

      Stage 35: Palas de Rei-Arzúa

      October 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      28.5 km/17.7 miles, about 60° all day, 10 hours
      Really long day. Couldn't have done it without Jens and Kirsten who overtook me in Melide, about halfway, then we walked the rest of the way together. Kirsten is a really strong walker but patiently accommodated my slow pace and Jens' as well, as he is nursing blisters. I started out from La Cabaña at Palas de Rei at 0745 with my clip on light and was doing well until the torrential rain and wind descended around 11:00 or so, then it was head down and try not to get blown off the path or drowned. Stopped for coffee once, then for lunch just before Melide with a brother and sister from Finland I've been running into for the last week. Then met up with Jens and Kirsten and we struggled through the typhoon until a miraculous clearing of the skies and reappearance of the sun in some Shangri-la valley with a microclimate supporting cacti, aloe vera and palm trees. And no I did not have too much wine with lunch. We stopped for one last coffee and cake before the last 3 or 4 kilometers and got to Arzúa just as the skies darkened again and wind and rain returned. Two more walking days to Santiago.Read more

    • Day 46

      Caminoed Out

      October 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      I've walked 360 km on the Camino Frances but the time has come to wind up my official Camino journey and do some less specific wandering in Europe for a month. After three days of walking in Galacia I struggled to make it to my next accommodation. In reality I continue to be able to walk only ten to twelve kilometers a day and today, as well as the next several days, around 15km is required to get to the next suitable accommodation.

      So today I've pulled the pin. I'm pretty happy with my 360. I've never done anything like that before. While it's only about half of the full Camino Frances, I saw all the best bits, and the reality is I just wasn't fit enough to do it all. No big surprise there. I'm definitely fitter and lighter than when I started so that's all good.

      Also I've arrived in eucalypt plantation country, I think I've seen that somewhere before. It's one of the things pilgrims like most about this section, the smell of gum trees.

      Now I don't plan to just lie around on the beach eating pizza for a month, I do plan to keep walking and getting fitter but with a bit more flexibility than the last six weeks.

      I'll bus to Santiago de Compostela tomorrow, the official end of the Camino, then I'll head to the Galacian Coast where I plan to stay in one place for three or four nights and explore.
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    • Day 46

      Bottines qui pointent vers le haut

      June 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Une autre journée qui a débuté dans la brume avec de nombreuses montées pour atteindre un dénivelé de 700 mètres, on a l'impression que nous sommes montées tellement régulièrement que le bout de mes bottines aux repos s'inclinent vers le haut, les pèlerins étaient calme ce matin on sent la fatigue en gagner plusieurs un orage à pavé notre chemin et nombeuses parties de la route avaient été trempés, boiteuses et souvent plus à niveau.

      Malgré les difficultés nous avons évité la pluie, un temps nuageux
      nous a accompagnés pour les 18 premiers km et finir sous le soleil
      une randonnée que je qualifierais de sportive puisque la brume nous empêchaient de voir les paysages.

      2 bottines d'enfants sur le sac pointaient vers le ciel d'un pèlerin de l'âge qui pouvait être père a retenu mon attention.

      Buene Camino
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    • Day 46

      Brouillard et Nutella au rendez-vous

      June 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Chemin de Compostelle 37/40
      Étape#. 30. Camino francés « Portomarin - Palas De Rei ». Kilomètres parcourus 26,0 km. Cumulatif : 947,9 km, moyenne 25,6 km par jour. Étapes restantes avant Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle : 3 et moins de 68,5 km à fouler.

      À 7h20 nous quittions Portomarin direction Palas De Rei 25 km plus loin. Après 1 km nous avons attaqué plusieurs longues montées dans un brouillard épais, disons que nous nous sommes réchauffés rapidement. La « Nutella » (boue) était aussi présente dans les sentiers. Des averses nous ont précédés.

      Côté condition physique, nous sommes dans une forme radieuse et c’est plaisant de gravir ces montées avec autant d’aisance.

      Après 3 1/2 heures et 18 kilomètres nous avons pris une pause petit déjeuner. Ensuite, on a poursuivi pour marcher 8 km et ainsi compléter notre 37e rando et plus de 947 kilomètres de foulés.

      Encore 3 étapes et nous aurons réussi les 1 000 km et serons arrivés à Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle (Santiago). Ça sera un objectif bien réalisé et ça sera la fête pour nous deux.

      Demain au programme 29,5 km et une ville que nous avons visitée en octobre 2017 « Arzua », hâte d’y retourner.

      Buen Camino 🤗
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    • Day 53

      Palas de Rei (15.5km / 699.6km)

      June 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      We’re well into the home stretch now with nice short days. We left this morning in the mist but it was quite warm. A nice walk up to the top of the hill while we talked to Theresa, Robbie and Gilbert on the phone and to mom (May) on her birthday. Happy Birthday Mom! Then a walk through forests most of the way.
      At second breakfast, Louise finally got us all to agree to a Cafe Carajillo - an espresso with a small shot of brandy! It’s quite a common thing for the locals and goes well with Tortilla.
      We were walking with Tammy, James and Louise and suddenly there was much excitement when Tammy found out that a YouTuber she and James were following was close behind us! When she saw him coming up the hill she rushed towards him and he was so kind. They walked together with him for about half an hour which made her day. His name is Efren Gonzalez and he has walked many Caminos.
      I (Ant) walked with an Englishman for a while and had to wait for the group to catch up. He was such an interesting man whose job was making and fixing stained glass windows - another first for me!
      In Palas de Rei we went to an Italian place run by an English and Irish couple just for a change and enjoyed the meal before all heading off to mass. It was a most welcoming mass with the priest making such an effort, words on a screen for pilgrims to follow and then an informal “where are you from?” session. The church was packed which was great to see. We ended with a dessert and Spanish Brandy!
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    • Day 11

      Portomarin - Palas de Rei (25,3km)

      July 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Für heute einmal unspektakulär. Frühmorgens zogen wir los und liefen das erste Mal bei Dunkelheit. Wiesen, Felder und kleine Bauerndörfer wechselten sich ab; die erste Einkehrmöglichkeit für Kaffee kam erst nach stattlichen acht Kilometern - eine Durststrecke im wahrsten Sinne des Wortes.
      Die Wanderung war schon fortgeschritten, da machten wir eine neue galicische Entdeckung: Cruzeiros. Schlanke, granitene, oft mit Flechten bewachsene und dadurch sehr keltisch wirkende mittelalterliche Wegkreuze. Häufig zeigen sie auf einer Seite Marienszenen und auf der anderen den Gekreuzigten.
      Und sonst? Nothing to see in Palas de Rei. Ausser der 19.00 Uhr-Messe in der Ortskirche, die wir besuchten. Und sehr erwähnenswert das gemütliche Beisammensein mit unseren lieben kroatischen Freunden aus Aachen, Marika und Enisj!
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    • Day 38

      Day 35

      September 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

      Left Portmarion 6.15 am arrived on the outskirts of Palas de Rei at 2.30 pm
      25ks
      The first couple of hours today was a long and very steep continuing climb. It seemed to go on forever. Especially hard walking in the dark. Then it was pleasant, then back to climbing up and down. We did have another bad patch of climbing down flat steep rocks steps , but we made it.
      Something I haven't mentioned is the dreadful stench that comes from the animals sheds as you go past.
      There are no pics of the village, it's just an Albergue on the outskirts of the village and I am too tired to walk any further than I have to.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Palas de Rey, Palas del Rey, Palas de rei, 27200

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