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Provincia de Ourense

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    • 12 Pfoten auf Europa Tour
      1111
      Päivä 32

      Nationalpark und Fahrt nach Braga

      30. lokakuuta 2022, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      So, der Wettergott hat uns erhört und pünktlich zu Maaikes Geburtstag ist es trocken und die Sonne scheint . Wir packen die Sachen und die Hunde, und ab geht's am Fluss Richtung Süden und spanisch portugiesische Grenze.
      Eine schöne Wanderung, die immer leicht Bergauf ging, und oben angelangt wartete eine Bar auf uns. Es gab viele kleine Wasserfälle, die wahrscheinlich gar nicht existieren, aber die Regenmengen waren wirklich erheblich. Appel hat auch jede Pfütze mitgenommen die er mit konnte. Jetzt sind wir in Braga auf dem Campingplatz angekommen und haben eine schöne Aussicht auf die Stadt, bzw. das alte Fussballstadion.      Lue lisää

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    • Nic, Jess, Sam et FélixPortugal et Espagne
      3
      11
      Päivä 6

      Village de Soajo dans les montagnes

      15. syyskuuta 2022, Portugali ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Après cette journée à toutes épreuves, nous nous levons avec notre réveil matin préféré de Samuel : Papaaaaaaa, mamannnnnm!! Alors très courte nuit et évidemment, tout le monde se réveille. Il faudra se fixer des règles mais on commence notre aventure en campervan. Donc pas le choix de s'ajuster.

      On déjeune au pied du Sanctuaire et en partant de là, petites emplettes faites à l'épicerie, il est déjà l'heure de dîner.

      On se dit que nous allons en profiter et aller dans la ville tout prêt, Castello de Viena. On cherche un stationnement, quand même un moment et ensuite, nous sommes à la recherche de notre resto 4,5. Mais il n'est pas trouvable! En fait, quelques restos sont fermés après l'été. Donc, on arrête dans un restaurant du coin. On y va avec la recommandation du serveur... Bon, note à nous-même : ne plus prendre la recommandation du serveur surtout s'il ne parle que portugais !!! Pas évident de converser et poser nos questions! Nous sommes près de l'eau dans le port avec un grand bateau devant nous. Je m'attendais à une super assiette de poissons, sardines, etc... Mais non !!! Des frites, des beans, du riz et des morceaux de steaks. Bien décevant. Ce n'était pas mauvais mais mettons que pour le prix en plus... Je suis curieuse je vais voir les commentaires des gens sur Trip Advisor. Attrape touristes !!!! Trop cher, etc.... Ouin bien.... Très décevant !! Mais on apprend et comme on le dit si bien: on n'est pas vraiment un touriste tant qu'on ne se fait pas arnaquer ein!!

      Ensuite, on se promène dans les rues de Viena. C'est très joli. Les gens font de belles manières à Félix qui lui à son tour, réplique avec de supers sourires comme toujours! Un Gelato en main, on revient déjà à notre camper. Les enfants sont fatigués alors ils s'endorment rapidement en reprenant la route.

      Nous arrivons à Soajo pour comptempler les Espigueiros: "un grenier typique du nord-ouest de la péninsule Ibérique (principalement Galice et Asturies en Espagne, et région Nord au Portugal), construit en bois et pierre, et élevé sur des piliers terminés par des supports plats afin d'en interdire l'accès aux rongeurs. La ventilation est assurée par des fentes dans les murs". La vue est magnifique. Nous sommes dans les montagnes, une rivière passe tout près. C'est beeaaauuuu! Nous décidons par la suite d'aller visiter une arche près de la rivière mais, mal indiqué, nous devons rebrousser chemin. Les minis nous ont faim. On décide d'aller se promener dans les rues du village de Soajo. Wow!! De toute beauté. Tout est en pierre. L'eau coule en dessous des ruelles. C'est vraiment un très beau village. On arrête manger enfin dans un excellent resto local. On opte pour la pieuvre au menu et c'est tellement bon que même Samuel en redemande 3-4 fois. Il adore !!!! Le vino verde maison est également très bon. Pour ceux qui se posent la question, et vino verde est un vin blanc mais plutôt effervescent, un peu pétillant.

      On retourne ensuite par les ruelles de pierre jusqu'au stationnement gratuit pour la nuit pour les VR aussi, espérons que c’est une pratique courante dans les villages!      Lue lisää

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    • Tour d'Europe
      2
      Päivä 75

      Playa Fluvial de rio Pacin

      26. kesäkuuta 2022, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Après s'être fait avoir au Portugal 🙁🇵🇹 sur l'emplacement qu'on avait repéré, nous sommes retourné en Espagne. Et c'est un changement d'ambiance 🇪🇸🤩, première tentative, on trouve direct un super lieu où rester 2 nuits. Les points positifs : c'est au départ de pas mal de rando 🥾, le paysage est super et on est au niveau d'une "Praia Fluvial" 👙🗻 (bord de rivière de montagne aménagé en espace de détente). On en a profité pour faire la vaisselle et se laver directement dans la rivière, c'est frais 🧊, mais qu'est-ce que c'est bon 🙂! 

      Vu l'endroit, on ne s'est pas fait prier pour faire une bonne petite rando. Il y avait quelques sections très sauvages 🪴🍄(avec des panneaux de signalisation, mais pas de chemin, il fallait marcher à travers la végétation) mais des super points de vue, des falaises, des cascades, ça valait le coup !      Lue lisää

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    • Spacy on TourIberische Halbinsel mit Spacy
      13
      Päivä 20

      Baden wie die Römer ... und Fado!

      17. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

      "Caldas Romanas de Bande" (Mo, 16. Oktober)

      Ausschlafen, Kaffee und Spaziergang zu den nahen "Aquis Querquennis". Dabei handelt es sich um Ruinen eines römischen Lagers aus dem 1./2. Jh. n. Chr., zum grossen Teil rekonstruiert. Wir geniessen die "antiken Badewannen" hier am Stausee ... und entscheiden uns spontan heute noch hier zu bleiben. Zeit zum gemütlich Kochen, Planen, Lesen, Lismen, Telefonieren ... und natürlich, nochmals ausgedehnt im heissen Wasser zu suhlen! Dabei kommen wir mit dem Portugiesen Pedro ins Gespräch. Er lebte ein paar Jahre mit seiner Familie im Amazonas bei Indios und kommt im Winter regelmässig mit Freunden zu dieser römischen Therme für schamanische Rituale, die in der Nacht um 04.00 Uhr beginnen. Spannend! Am Abend schauen wir uns auf dem Tablet den Tatort vom letzten Sonntag an und die Tagesschau! Schon lässig, dass dies heutzutage so möglich ist. Und gleichzeitig geniessen wir den Abstand zum aktuellen Weltgeschehen!

      Coimbra (Di, 17. Oktober)

      Vergangene Nacht und heute tagsüber regnet und windet es intensiv - von der spanisch-portugiesischen Grenze bis hinunter nach Coimbra - wo wir übernachten. Spacy tönt wie eine Alphütte! Doch der Reihe nach!

      Ein letztes Mal lassen wir heute Vormittag im antiken römischen Bad in freier Natur genussvoll die Seele baumeln. Eine spezielle Atmosphäre: von unten dampfts wohlig ... und oben herab regnets! Einfach cool! 😃 Heidi serviert den Kaffee am Poolrand. Edel! Die "Caldas romanas" ist ein Ort mit spezieller Ausstrahlung für mich. Die beiden Tage und das wiederholte "Suhlen" im heissen Wasser hat richtig gut getan.

      Dann brechen wir wieder auf, im strömenden Regen! Die gemütliche Fahrt durch den portugiesischen Nationalpark Penedes-Gerés lässt uns erahnen, dass es hier wunderschön sein kann, wenn das Wetter stimmt!🤣

      Auf der Weiterfahrt Richtung Süden fahren wir an zwei schweren Verkehrsunfällen vorbei. Erinnerungen und Bilder unseres letztjährigen Unfalls in Griechenland kommen hoch. Welch unglaubliches Glück wir doch hatten! Porto lassen wir "links" liegen - geografisch gesehen ja eigentlich rechts🤣! Wir wollen an die Wärme ... und Porto sparen wir uns für ein anderes Mal auf, mit besserem Wetter und mehr Musse! Wir übernachten in der Universitätsstadt Coimbra. Von den gut 140'000 Einwohnern sind 30'000 Studierende! Coimbra hat eine traditionsreiche Vergangenheit und war im 12./13. Jh. die Hauptstadt Portugals. Davon zeugen herrschaftliche Gebäude wie der ehemalige Königspalast, der heute von Studierenden bevölkert wird! Der nächtliche Spaziergang durch die beleuchtete Altstadt gefällt ... und führt uns nicht ganz zufällig zu einer ehemaligen Kapelle aus dem 17. Jh., wo das "Casa de Fados" zuhause ist. Wir haben einen Tisch reserviert. Auch heute Abend wird hier in der umfunktionierten Kapelle Fado und Gitarrenspiel dargeboten, in einer familiärer Atmosphäre. Wir geniessen Musik, Tapas und Wein!😉      Lue lisää

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    • Spacy on TourIberische Halbinsel mit Spacy
      3
      Päivä 18

      Los Richtung Süden!

      15. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

      Der Wetterbericht verspricht für den Nordwesten der Iberischen Halbinsel eine sehr durchzogene Woche mit viel Regen. Okay!🤔 Dann brechen wir halt früher Richtung Süden auf, wollen eine Duftnote des portugiesischen Nationalparks Penedes-Gêres mitnehmen und danach etwas nördlich von Lissabon eine ehemalige Arbeitskollegin von Andreas besuchen.

      Mehr oder weniger regnet es die ganze Fahrt von Oviedo nach Bande, in der Nähe der spanisch-portugiesischen Grenze (gute 400 km), durch dicht besiedeltes Küstengebiet und über liebliche Hügellandschaften. Mit Hunger und Zufall fahren wir für das Zmittag um 13.30 Uhr beim Restaurant Galicia in Baamonde zu. Von aussen eine unscheinbare Fassade, innen mit musealem Charakter. Die Spezialität des Hauses ist ein Kaffee aus dem "pot de madre" mit einem Traubenschnaps (siehe Foto) serviert! Schmeckt wunderbar!😊

      Im Dorf steht die Iglesia de Santiago de Baamonde mit Ursprung aus dem 9. Jh. Und gleich daneben ein eindrücklicher 800-jähriger Kastanienbaum. Wieviel Freud und Leid wurde wohl unter dieser Krone schon geteilt?

      Am späteren Nachmittag erreichen wir den Stausee "Encoro des Conchas". Es herrscht reger Betrieb bei den "Caldas Romanas de Bande", einer antiken römischen Therme in freier Natur. Badekleider an und rein in die heissen Hotsprings (38 - 46°C.). Im kleinen Bach abkühlen und wieder rein in die antike Badewanne. Einfach genial! Die Nacht verbringen wir hier mit anderen Campern.      Lue lisää

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    • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
      1
      11211
      Päivä 20

      Lobios to Castro Laboreiro (21 km)

      27. syyskuuta 2022, Portugali ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Short in kilometers maybe, but the 800 m of elevation gain took me some time. It was a day full of surprises for me, because I really had no idea what to expect. Some friends wrote a day by day account when they walked about a year ago, but I only read their posts after I’ve done my walk. So it’s really one surprise after the next.

      I left around sunrise, and the first 10 or 11 km went from village to village on a mixture of roads and nice off-road trails, but then after a little place called A Pereira I emerged from one of those green tunnels (trees all around and moss-covered stone walls on both sides) and I was in a totally different landscape. I was on a big flat plain with rocky peaks on three sides. Amazing.

      Then back to walking by rivers, through some scrub forests, and then —surprise— a beautiful Roman bridge. It was there I took off my shoes, ate a cheese sandwich, and just wondered what this place was like when the Romans were here.

      The last 5K were a pretty steep ascent on a road in the sun. Guaranteed to wipe you out. But as always, a shower works a miracle. Around four, I decided to follow the path up to the castle. I’ve been to a lot of castles, I’ve climbed around a lot of castles, and this one was pretty much in ruins, but its position was one of the most spectacular I’ve ever seen. The views were pretty amazing. Built in the 10th century, it went back and forth between Spanish and Portuguese hands until finally Portugal won the last battle.

      This little town has three hotels, and there are lots of groups of walkers and “ramblers.” I’ve talked to some British and French people, quite the international crowd. Tomorrow back to Spain!      Lue lisää

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    • MatkaajaCamino Sanabrés
      1
      11111212
      Päivä 8

      Day 44 - Requejo - 12.7 km

      3. marraskuuta 2022, Espanja ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

      Weather: 2 - 14 degrees. Yesterday said rain - today maybe not.
      Clothes: short and long sleeve merino top, fleece and rain jacket, trekking pants.

      The walk.
      I left my hotel to a misty foggy morning- droplets of water that could perhaps be called rain only a couple of times.
      There have been a number of warnings that the Camino trail could be flooded in certain sections here during rainy seasons. However given it wasn’t actually raining when I left at 9 am I thought I would see how I felt when I got to the first turn off.
      Well it seemed fine so off I went along the river. And it was exquisite. There were a couple of water hurdles but someone had kindly made some small bridges and the only time I got my feet wet was when I thought the second bridge looked a little unsteady and I tried to walk through the meadow. Turns out it was a water meadow so with slightly wet feet I headed back to the bridge which turned out to be rock solid.
      Walking along the river was a such delight I didn’t at all mind the slightly wet feet.
      I also began to understand that this section might have been difficult and even frightening for someone else. - thinking of my German friend Peter, who has had 5 operations in 4 years.
      Again I was grateful for my early life in the country; camping, walking through the bush and enjoying the challenges this can bring.
      After the first river section I followed the arrows and walked along the road where I was partnered by a rainbow for the next hour or more. 🌈🌈🌈. How can I doubt that I am loved and protected?
      I missed the next river section as the causeway just off the road was flooded and a man came to shout me away - he was really looking for his cow but he also seemed to indicate that I should stay on the road
      The next choice was to either continue along the road or try the longer ‘scenic’ route. I took the scenic route and as it initially went up hill, seemed safe from flooding.
      I was so happy I did that. It was a fairy land of tracks and trails and trees and leaves and light and sparkling streams and small meadows and cows and bliss -perhaps the most beautiful section since Sevilla. ❤️❤️❤️. One guide said it was picturesque- an understatement.
      I arrived at Requejo at 12.30 pm - no time at all - stopped at the Bar for a refresh before I went to find my albergue.
      On the way there I met a young French man - he said his name was Rocket. He was travelling to Porto - hitchhiking and walking. It was comforting for us both to have a conversation- his English was great - and to wish each other well in our various adventures.
      After the usual albergue routine I headed for the local hotel/ restaurant to eat. Although the town seems deserted the restaurant was buzzing - with tables having second and even third seatings.
      So that’s it for today. Till tomorrow.

      Buen Camino

      Reflections on the mind …
      At various times in the night and early morning the mind fretted about rain and coffee. Will it rain and do they serve real coffee for breakfast in the hotel (there are no Bars nearby). Thank goodness through mindful practice I was able to turn away from these thoughts and have a good nights sleep.
      And guess what - no rain, just fog: and plenty of real coffee for breakfast. 😂🤣😂🤣😂
      Today I realised that the mind has been doing an awful lot of worrying over this Camino - as I have shared in previous posts - more so than on previous Caminos . Over and over again everything turns out OK.
      I also thought it might be that there is so much more fear energy in the world these days. From all the people wanting to walk a Camino but sharing on various forums how scared they are - to Peter yesterday taking about flood and snow as we head over the mountains.
      And here I am, the sun is shining, I am well fed, I have warm bed and clean clothes. And I am safe.      Lue lisää

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    • MatkaajaCamino Sanabrés
      3
      2
      Päivä 9

      Day 45 - Lubián - 16.8 km

      4. marraskuuta 2022, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

      Weather: 0 - 11 and cloudy
      Clothes: The same

      The day started clear with yet another beautiful pink sunrise. Relaxed breakfast coffee and toast at the bar and then off I went.
      The first part of the walk today was along the road going up, up and more up. Today we get to the highest point of this Camino before a long downhill to Santiago.
      I read that the route has also been a bit disrupted by building the AVE ( high speed train route) but all in all it was fine. The sun was shining and even though there was a cold wind that needed some adjustment of headgear from time to time, I felt snug.
      Just as I was getting a bit tired of the road the route went left to the tracks and dirt roads of previous times. The route wound under the new overpasses and I crossed a wonderful river cascading over rocks. Then to my surprise I came to a white concrete roadway that took me to the highest point. I sat in the sun just before the top. I wanted to savour this stage because it felt like the end of the endless stage of the Camino. I am definitely coming into that last stage I spoke about in a previous post - before I know it I will be in Santiago. It now seems harder to stay in the day I am in - the mind keeps jumping ahead to the end.
      The monument, sitting on green grass flanked by Birch trees, was a short way down from the actual highest point. I spent quite some time there before the body/mind was ready to move on down the hill.
      Before long I came to the tiny village of Padornelo which never the less had a significant hotel and bar/restaurant. Warm fire, coffee and Jamon bocadilla, and I was ready for the last 8 km to Lubián.
      The last section was as beautiful as the first section and yesterday’s meandering track. While I am not yet in Galicia itself I am definitely in Galician country. I feel so at home here. If yesterday was a fairy path today was the dwarf path. Wonderful.
      More rivers, bridges, trees and tracks and I eventually got to Lubián. The albergue door was unlocked - as they all have been over the past few days and given it was 3.30 pm I went straight to get some food. I just scraped into the restaurant’s lunch time - ends at 4 pm. I couldn’t have waited till 8.30 pm and didn’t have the energy or brain power to buy food and cook. A lovely woman guided me to the Bar through the winding streets of this small village.
      Right now I am sitting in the Bar grabbing some Wifi.
      Then it’s back to the albergue to get ready for tomorrow.

      Buen Camino

      Reflection
      The monument at the pass at A Canda (1365 metres) was a powerful moment - an important moment - a place to stop and reflect. It has taken me 6 weeks to reach this point and in two weeks I will in Santiago.
      In my mind’s eye I could see Santiago ahead and after that the rest of my life - which at that moment seemed more terrifying and uncertain than walking the Camino forever.
      My mind very naturally reflected on the last 6 weeks and various Camino memories arose - the hard bits, the easy bits, the inspiring bits. In that moment I wanted to go back to Sevilla and do it all over again.
      This Camino feels like getting to know a stranger with all the ups and downs of that journey - only to discover that as you come to thoroughly know them, there is only love. And love. And love.
      My eyes keep getting wet and I am not sure why. Anticipation of the Camino goodbye or the love that the Camino elicits?

      Camino amigo talks about Galicia
      I had a buddy last night. A man from Madrid, Serge, who is riding his bike from Sevilla to Santiago in 15 days. That’s all the time he has. Phew! He wants to ride through Chile. The Camino is part of his preparation.
      Serge lived in the US for a year and is a flight attendant. We had a great chat. And he gave me the warmest farewell after coffee in the morning. I again saw that I am shy of goodbyes and letting people know how much they mean to me - something to let go.
      Serge’a father comes from Galicia and he told me a little about this district. It’s one of the poorest in Spain because it is so mountainous. Serge said his father left the village at age 14 to go to school and that in the 60’s people started to move to the cities. There are only two people living permanently in Serge’s father’s village. Many who have left villages have kept and renovated their traditional village homes and go there for the summer holidays. So the villages can be busy in summer but deserted in winter. This part of the Camino goes through tourist areas - hence the bigger hotels and Bars.

      PS. I am standing outside (catching some internet bars) as the sun sets and the moon rises. It’s clear and cold but so fresh and pleasant. I am a mountain person. Beautiful.      Lue lisää

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    • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
      1
      Päivä 21

      Castro Laboreiro to Cortegada (30 km)

      28. syyskuuta 2022, Portugali ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      When I saw that there were 1300 m of descent on today’s stage I have to admit I groaned. That’s so hard on the knees. But off I went.

      It had been raining over night, so there were “water amenities“ every time the camino took me off road to those narrow rocky paths surrounded by rock walls. Sometimes it was deep mud, and sometimes it was standing water. Finding the best way over was not always easy. Even without pools of water or mud, going down on slippery rocks made for a very slow going. In fact this was probably my longest walking day yet. I just had to take my time.

      When I got to the Spanish border, I emerged onto a totally deserted but paved road. Under normal circumstances I wouldn’t have been so thrilled, but to have a large chunk of descent on a road with no rocks and no mud to navigate was really great.

      The highlight of the day for me was walking through pine forests, especially when I was close to the Deva River,

      I wouldn’t say it was a five star day, but it was pleasant enough. The only real downer for me was that one of my hiking poles collapsed. I am getting some advice on how to fix it but I guess I’ll be fine with just one. People on the Camino forum are tremendously helpful, and are sending me YouTube videos of how to fix the problem. One Spanish friend suggested I take it to a car repair shop, on the theory that they will certainly have some thing to fix it with. Since the solution seems to lie with some strong adhesive, that does sound like a good suggestion, and I will probably try it tomorrow.

      I am in the town of Cortegada, which is probably the saddest town I’ve been in so far. Nothing going on, 80% of the houses seem to be falling down, but there is a beautifully restored balneario down on the river. I was surprised that it was built in 1937, as the Civil War was in full swing.

      Thankfully, Cortegada has the Casa de Conde, a small guesthouse that gives pilgrims a good price. No restaurants, but I can use their kitchen, so I am fine. Onward tomorrow!      Lue lisää

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    • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
      11
      Päivä 22

      Cortegada - San Xes - Ribadavia (19 km)

      29. syyskuuta 2022, Espanja ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      I woke up at about 6 am to a heavy rain. I decided to sleep a little more, but by 8:00, I had had breakfast and was putting on my rain gear. I kept repeating one of Joe’s favorite bits of advice — “A mal tiempo, buena cara.” Within about 10 minutes, the rain had turned into a little drizzle, and within 25 minutes it had stopped. No more rain except for a 20 minute downpour somewhere along the Minho River. Call me lucky.

      It was another walk with pleasant surprises. Wikiloc showed a steep descent down to the Minho, but it wasn’t steep at all. And, even with all the rain, the tracks were totally fine. No rocky paths turning into water channels. Once down at the river I had a really nice walk along the banks, and it lasted most of the way to Ribadavia, actually. A few petos de anima (alms box for the souls in purgatory), some pretty churches, and a lot of Minho River views.

      Ribadavia is well known for its preserved judería (Jewish quarter). But I had learned that there was also a pre-romanesque church, San Xes, just a few kilometers out of town. Since I got to the town early, I decided to walk out and visit the church before finding a place to stay. It wasn’t raining and I thought it made sense to take advantage. What a beautiful little church. Ninth century, some carvings on both sides of the door that look like the flight to Egypt (thanks AJ!!!), and a stone lattice window that was beautiful. I couldn’t get inside even after asking a couple of neighbors. But I was happy enough to sit outside and eat my snack and enjoy.

      I found a little Pension in the center of town, right in the plaza mayor actually. Turns out I was lucky to get the last room, which involves a three flight walk up.      Lue lisää

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