• Peter Filshie
  • Sharon Filshie

Europe, England & Greece 2023

Our winter getaway this year will take us to The Netherlands for a cruise around Norway. Next stop will be a few weeks in France before we cross The Channel to visit friends in England. The final stage of our holiday is to explore Greece. Czytaj więcej
  • Rozpocznij wyprawę
    15 czerwca 2023

    Here we go

    15 czerwca 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Bon voyage Melbourne. Your winter has driven us away again. Our trip will take us to Europe for the next 7+ weeks.

    Always sad to leave family, friends and a pet behind but our travel itch needs scratching.

    First drama is no Bacardi in the Qantas club! Sharon went back in time and had a Kaluha and soda!

    Off to Doha at 9pm flying Qatar who were recently voted runner up for the world’s best airline.

    Our flight was 14.5 hours and we landed in Doha at 4:45am and it was already 35 degrees. Qatar lived up to their promise. Food and media selection was great, and the seats seemed to have more legroom than normal.

    We both managed to get some decent sleep. The Doha airport is massive and impressive. My life membership with Qantas allowed us to use the executive lounge so we both had a shower and revitalized for the next leg.

    The airport is a Mecca of shops. Our fav was the M&M display. No, you get in the bowl!

    We fly at 8:10am to Amsterdam. This flight will only be 7 hours!
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  • Amsterdam culture & snarls

    16 czerwca 2023, Holandia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The flight across went above Iraq and Turkey. It went quickly and on arrival into Amsterdam we were greeted with out-of-order escalators and only four customs officers to process over 500 passengers. Our patience was tested.

    The pre purchased train tickets worked really well and in no time, we had moved from Schiphol Airport to Amsterdam Central station. At this point we had a choice of the underground or a taxi to get to our Airbnb, so I recommended a taxi as we were lumping around 50kg of luggage.

    Being a taxi driver in Amsterdam has recently become a nightmare. Our taxi on the rank asked us if he could take another elderly lady with us and share the fare also so it was worth his while. I knew it should have been about a 10 minute trip but I was politely told no it was an hour and 45 euros. The mayor of Amsterdam is implementing significant changes to the CBD. The latest is all the downtown is car free, so we had to drive all around the lock out zone in the worst traffic imaginable. We weren’t conned, it is just a logistical disaster.

    There has also been controversy over closing coffee shops in the red-light district. The mayor wants to clean up the image here.

    Trains for us now!

    We found our Airbnb and we are right downtown in a basement studio below street level. It was precarious getting in, but we are here now, and it will do for a few nights.

    We have to stay awake now and set our body clocks. Sharon booked tickets at the Moco Museum which has a permanent Banksy exhibition and many other “out there” artists on display. It was a decent 30 minute walk there and back so now we are tired. We grabbed a nice Italian feed on the boardwalk cafe. It was lovely watching the pushbike traffic. Everyone seems to own a bike. So many here but no helmets.
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  • Say cheese

    17 czerwca 2023, Holandia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Today is our only full day in Amsterdam and Sharon has booked a tour which will take us out to the countryside.

    We woke early and had a decent sleep all things considered. Our studio is noisy with a bar next door and the owners in the next level. We were zonked so it didn’t really matter.

    Our goal first thing was to master the underground system which we will do again Sunday. No problem. We are 200 metres from a station, and it is super-efficient. You don’t even need to buy a ticket. Just tap on and off with your credit card.

    It was so quiet at Central station that we became worried about finding somewhere for breakfast. Sharon went into a cannabis cafe thinking they had food! They didn’t but they did direct us to a cute small cafe that served us a meal. Sharon’s mint tea was hilarious. Hot water in a glass crammed with mint on the stalk. She liked it with honey.

    The meeting place for our tour was easy to find and by 9:30 we were on the road.

    The first stop was a genuine Gouda and Clog making factory. The owner is fourth generation and he put on a great show on how the cheese is made and also a demonstration on clog making.

    Next, we stopped at Edam known for its famous cheese too. We were there to walk through one of the oldest parts of Holland. It was such a beautiful place. Some of the canal homes are just stunning. The real flash ones have tearooms on the canal where the owners take tea in the afternoon.

    Lunch was at Volendam. This is a lakeside village where you start to appreciate how much of this area is protected by dams because almost all of this region is below sea level. I had to use google translate to buy a sandwich.

    Last part of the day was a visit to the last remaining working windmills. They are so much bigger than we imagined. Fascinating how they work and pump water back to sea.

    Back to Amsterdam and stuffed up the train trip home. We had an unscheduled train to the suburbs and back. Misread the station name.

    Back at the studio we decided to eat local. Right next to our front door is a bar with snacks right on the canal. We sat and enjoyed everyone buzzing by on bikes.

    I’ve decided Heineken taste better here just like Guinness did in Ireland.

    Time to pack. Tomorrow, we head to Rotterdam to board our cruise ship.
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  • On to Rotterdam

    18 czerwca 2023, Holandia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    When we booked our cruise to Norway last year it was supposed to sail from Amsterdam. Celebrity Cruise notified us that all cruises would now depart from Rotterdam. Strangely we saw cruise ships locally, so we assume it all came down to cost.

    We left our studio at 9am and navigated our way to central station via the underground. Now we go by surface train to Rotterdam which will take about 70 minutes.

    The taxi to the ship was easy and we are aboard and ready to sail.

    Celebrity Apex is one of the newest in their fleet and it is beautiful inside.

    We found the martini bar and relaxed.

    Tomorrow we are at sea all day sailing. Off to Norway we go.
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  • At sea

    19 czerwca 2023, North Sea ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Today we head north towards Norway. We track up the North Sea and you can feel it is getting cooler.

    We can use today to explore the ship. The Celebrity Apex is quite stunning and very modern.

    Last night the Martini Bar was our weakness. The barmen were hilarious. There was lots of ice tossing, bottle juggling and cocktails balanced on their heads. The guests loved it.

    Our room has a veranda which forms part of the room. When you want the window down you just close the inner doors. Clever concept.

    Modern artwork and sculptures are in all the corridors and foyers.

    The food so far has been excellent, and the staff are cheery and make you feel welcome. You wouldn’t really know there are 2600 people aboard.
    From what we can tell the majority of guests are from the USA. We even have a guest who has his companion dog with him.

    At 10:30am we have an invite to the Captains Club. It is a function for frequent cruisers. We will meet senior management and the captain himself.

    Mandatory afternoon activity is lounging around and reading.

    In the evening we went to the cabaret show that plays only twice on the cruise. It was a very good production with singing, acrobatics, laser lighting backing the dancers, an extremely talented violinist and loud music. The cast received a standing ovation.
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  • Kristiansand, Norway

    20 czerwca 2023, Norwegia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    There is no quiet way to berth a ship so at 6am we were woken to sounds of docking, forklifts buzzing about and the crew making ready for us to look around in town.

    We have arrived in Norway. Kristiansand is at the southern end of Norway. If you went to the top of Scotland and turned right that is where we are in the world.

    We leave at 5pm, so today we walked around the town instead of doing an excursion. It was a 6km loop, so the feet are a bit sore.

    A moose greeted us on the dock and then you exit the wharf via the fish market. Norwegians eat heaps of seafood. Most of the displays were still live.

    Kristiansand is small and interesting. Reminds us a bit of Alaska. We have never seen so many flowerpots and baskets and the town is sparkling clean. I spotted a remote-control mower with the operator nowhere to be seen.

    Back on board and having a drink on the bar lounge that sits on the outside of the ship. Best view in town when you dock anywhere.

    We have a captains club function at 5pm as we depart.
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  • Haugesund, Norway

    21 czerwca 2023, Norwegia ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    We moved up the west coast overnight and now we are alongside at Haugesund.

    This is where the Viking King Ferking came from and his claim to fame is founding Norway after a bloody sea battle in the 700’s.

    The scenery has now changed to fjords. Our cruise terminal is an island in itself purpose built for the cruise ship and oil rig construction industries. Next to us is a platform under construction that is a wind farm. Norway is one of the leading countries to eliminate fossil fuel cars. They will be all electric by 2025.

    Our excursion took us to a fisherman memorial for those lost at sea. The landscape now is all islands with ferries going back and forwards with people, cars and cargo.

    These parts were established in the early 1800’s because there was an abundance of herrings in the waterways. Villages formed to house the fishermen and the villages dried the fish, pickled them in salt and then in wooden barrels. These were then traded in the Baltics.

    Even after that industry died off Norway remains a dominant world supplier of salmon.

    Our bus took us to Skudeneshavn for a few hours. It was a charming village with heaps of old-time character. The museum was exceptional. They had displays of what the town look like 200 years ago. There were so many beautiful pictures to take here.

    The weather has been drizzly today, but the locals seem happy as rain has been rare of late.

    Sunrise is 4:20am at the moment. Sunset is 11pm. We have been told we are not going to see the northern lights at this time of the year.

    Back to the ship and we sail again up the coast further.
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  • Geiranger, Norway

    22 czerwca 2023, Norwegia ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Overnight we kept heading north on the North Sea before taking a right hand turn moving slowing into the fjord system on the west coast.

    It looks a bit like the sounds on the South Island of NZ. Just picturesque views all around. At 9:15am we passed the 7 Sisters waterfall. How they do this I do not understand but the Apex did a 360-degree rotation. No such thing as a bad view.

    On to Geiranger which is right at the end of the fjord arm we are on. As we approached the township, they have a floating dock that unravels and extends to the ship, so we don’t have to use tenders here. Remarkable technology but also clever navigation by the captain. The bridge is beside our veranda hand you can see he does it all on a just few joysticks.

    Geiranger is a village at the head of Geirangerfjord. We went up the waterfall stairs to the Norwegian Fjord Center which presented multimedia on the history of the region and its inhabitants. Part of the steep Trollstigen mountain road weaves through the village, connecting to Flydalsjuvet lookout, which has views over the fjord.

    The pictures don’t do justice to the power and speed of the water as it rushes down into the fjord. This location was granted World Heritage status in 2005.

    Avalanches are also a big issue here and locals have been warned of a breach that could happen from a reservoir nearby. They have discovered a cracked ravine that will eventually breach and cave in. When it happens there will be a 25 metre tsunami that will devastate the village we went to today. The locals even leave their car keys in their car when shopping in case there is a need to escape quickly.

    What a terrific day. So beautiful here.
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  • Alesund, Norway

    23 czerwca 2023, Norwegia ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Overnight we moved to Alesund which at first glance is a bigger city than what we have been visiting so far.

    Our last excursion today is the only one we didn’t book with the ship. It was a short walk to the pickup point and off we go.

    We head up to the mountains which only a few weeks ago were covered in snow. Now summer has arrived it is melting, so we saw plenty of waterfalls. The foxglove flowers grow wild everywhere here.

    The countryside is picturesque, and the guide explains how the glaciers formed the U-shaped valleys. Our seats were right at the front, so we got the best view.

    We reached the peak of Trollstigen-Land of the Trolls, for some awesome photos of the valley. The rivers are running fast, the waterfalls were loaded and spectacular. Norwegians have a custom of building small rock piles to signify they were there and will return.

    Sitting at the front of the bus was a good idea until the descent. There was barely room for cars to pass let alone a coach. The driver was very experienced while we just hung on to gripping the seat. The hairpin turns were the worst.

    Safely down the mountain, the driver got a well-earned applause and before long we stopped where the troll story is told. Of course, we didn’t see the real ones because they don’t come out in daylight.

    Back on board we did our daily visit to the martini bar. We chatted to a couple who were about our vintage. Alan was a very interesting person. He is retired now but served for 44 years in the US Air Force as a fighter pilot flying M16s. He explained what it was like to be a fighter pilot. We learnt a lot. He doesn’t believe Tom Cruise could fly a jet fighter!

    The show tonight was a Beatles concert, and the crowd were the perfect demographic. Their performance was slick, and they even got a standing ovation. The evening entertainment has been great all week.

    We are back on the North Sea again turning south sailing back to Rotterdam.
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  • Sea Day back to Rotterdam

    24 czerwca 2023, North Sea ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Our last day onboard.

    There are heaps of activities so after breakfast we did some duty-free shopping and then went to the theatre for a presentation on whales. The speaker was passionate about all thing's whales. It was worth watching.

    The Celebrity Apex is only a few years old, so the decor is really modern, and the technology is a step up on our past cruise ships.

    All the restrooms have touch free door openers. Your room has an internal verandah with an electric window, so you choose to have sea air or close it if it is chilly.

    With sunset at 11:30pm and sunrise at 4:20am the block out blind is also electric. You can operate all these things from your phone on an app that also tells you every activity, location and start time.

    Gone is the big formal dining room. Now there are four themed restaurants. You can dine at Normandy (French), Tuscany (Italian), Cyprus (Greek) or Cosmopolitan (international). Half the menu in each is the same standard fare but the other half are specialty dishes from that country. You really are spoilt with choice and the quality of food has been great.

    There are also other fine dining restaurants that you pay extra to eat in.

    The main buffet is open all day. Bread is made and baked in front of you. The main meals are plated for you by the staff, but salads and wet dishes are still self-serve.

    You have multiple bars to choose from. There isn’t a pub but there is a small sports bar. All the bars have live musicians from midday. One bar hangs on the outside of the ship and moves up and down the floors.

    The designers even put a garden on the top deck and the plants elsewhere are all real. Our cruise had 2600 on it but capacity is 3500. You really don’t feel cramped with the Apex configuration.

    The concert tonight was a rock tribute. All the shows have been of a very high standard.

    The kids get a Camp Out option. There is an area set up outside with tents. This cruise wasn’t really for kids though.

    We received a note from Celebrity saying Rotterdam Central station is completely closed this weekend for renovation. The tickets we bought back home have us leaving there. After some fast footwork we cancelled and rebooked at the next station down the line. Rotterdam station is huge and much bigger than our Southern Cross station at home.

    All packed now and bags are collected. Big travel day tomorrow.
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  • Amsterdam to Paris

    25 czerwca 2023, Holandia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    The disembarkation process is so clever and efficient that we found ourselves curbside earlier than expected. To our shock the Rotterdam taxi drivers were like a feeding frenzy. We were forced to pay 80 euros for a 15 minute trip. Normally the fare would be 35 euros, but they knew we had no alternative. Anyway, our driver copped a served from Sharon and off we went.

    The Schiedam Centrum station was disgusting. Dirty, smelly and the lift didn’t work. Carrying the bags was hard yakka.

    An hour later we are back at Amsterdam central station. On the train ride there were heaps of bicycles. One modern bike beside us had fancy technology. The owner locked it with his phone app and when anyone bumped it a hidden speaker plays a lion roar and the lights flash.

    Next leg is from here to Paris via Brussels. Takes about 4 hours and is nice and comfortable. On several stretches between Amsterdam and Paris, Thalys VFT runs at 300 km/h! The countryside is very green, and we have struck a patch of really warm days.
    Blink and you miss it.

    An hour out of Paris the train had its third breakdown. We sat for a while and then we took off again. At last, we made it to Paris, but we were cutting it close to make our Seine River sunset cruise.

    There we were hardly any taxis but finally we squeezed into a Tesla taxi and off we went to our hotel. I raced in with the bags and went back to the taxi. He then took us to the pier where the boat departed. We had 5 mins to spare, or they would have left without us. Phew!

    The cruise was terrific, and we enjoyed just sitting back and taking in all the sights. It is hot here and so heaps of people are just gathering beside the river for picnics or a bottle of wine.

    After the cruise we walked to the grounds behind the Eiffel Tower. It was now nearly 10pm and there were thousands there waiting for the tower to light up. We just joined in and lay on the grass. At 11pm the tower sparkles with lights. Everyone claps and cheers and head off.

    We walked to our hotel. What a big day we have just had.
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  • Paris - always magnificent

    26 czerwca 2023, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Unbelievably we woke up at 11am. Our hotel is so quiet and comfortable that we just slept in late like never before.

    We are staying a great spot. Classic Paris hotel of five floors and the tiniest lift you have ever seen. Room for one and a bag!

    Plenty of restaurants and shops so we grabbed some brunch and decided to walk to the Arc de Triomphe.

    Along the way we stopped at the Princess Diana tribute over the tunnel where she lost her life. There are hundreds of padlocks on the chain around the memorial. Sad moment.

    The Arc was really busy, but we bought our tickets ahead of time and jumped the queue. The view from the top is superb but be prepared for 284 steps up and then back. You get a 360 view of all of Paris. The Arc de Triomphe de l'Étoile is one of the most famous monuments in Paris, standing at the western end of the Champs-Élysées at the centre of Place Charles de Gaulle. It was built in 1806 to commemorate all the French people who died in wars.

    The subway system RER was our savior as we got a day ticket and plotted our next journey.

    We decided to check out a few spots from Emily in Paris which was a tv series we recently enjoyed at home. First was Gabriel’s restaurant which is really Terra Nera. The owner hates all the photographers, but we still grabbed a pic or two.

    Next stop Pantheon which was really close and then back on the tube to Colonnes de Buren at Palau’s Royal. This was in an episode where Emily filmed a perfume ad, and her Instagram account went ballistic.

    We walked a lot today and saw heaps. Paris is an enchanting place; we wish they could do better with the litter everywhere.
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  • Paris to Dunkerque

    27 czerwca 2023, Francja ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Hotel breaky was our best option before our Uber man picked us up at 11am to take us to Gard de Nord station. In peak hour it was slow going but there were lots of great sights to see on the journey.

    It will take 2 hours to Dunkerque which is north on the coastal beach and very close to the Belgium border.

    We chose Dunkeque to stay for five nights for several reasons. Firstly, our Airbnb is right on the beach above a restaurant so Sharon will be able to do her fair share of water gazing.

    Secondly this is a historic site for fighting WW1 & there is of course the massive retreat and evacuation that occurred here at the beginning of WW2.

    Next, we wanted to hire a car and experience Provincial France having been to the big cities a few times. There are plans to go to nearby Belgium too.

    We settled into the apartment which is every bit as good as the pictures. A walk to Carrfours for supplies and we were ready to kick back and enjoy a balcony sip.

    The restaurant below was getting a new extension put out the front, so we got here just in time to watch the workers finish the job.

    Our view is called Malo Beach which is obviously a holiday precinct. The boardwalk is huge and there are many choices for eateries or a treat.

    The restaurants we like were fully booked so we reserved one for tomorrow night and settled for a burger tonight.
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  • Dunkerque

    28 czerwca 2023, Francja ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    The hire car was ready at 9am so we caught the free bus service back to the Gard (station) to pick it up from Avis. We will keep this car for nine days as we head down the coast towards Normandy.

    It is a tiny Toyota manual - cheap and cheerful. Just enough room for the two of us and our bags. Now for the difficult part. Sharon is terrified of me driving on the wrong side of the road, so I suggested we start with a short 6-minute drive to the Dunkerque Wednesday market.

    We managed to find a park and went shopping. Sharon bought a pair of jeans while I was more food orientated and went for the fromage. So cheap and such good quality. More fruit and bread were added, and we made our way back to the apartment. There was a park just around the corner from our digs so that's enough car driving for today.

    In the afternoon we took a long walk down the beach which is dead flat and about 15 kms long. The buildings along the shore are mostly from the 50's or newer. The bombardment of Dunkerque destroyed 80% of the town. The old buildings really stand out.

    The beach is a hive of activity. Wind sailing and cart sailing seem popular. There were a few kites up as it gets windy in the afternoon here. The boardwalk is very wide, and most restaurants have indoor seating, out the front seating and then on the actual beach tables enclosed to protect from the wind.

    Tonight, we dine next door at Brasserie de la Plage. We think it specializes in steak and seafood.
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  • Dunkerque Operation Dynamo

    29 czerwca 2023, Francja ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The Dunkirk evacuation, codenamed Operation Dynamo and also known as the Miracle of Dunkirk was the evacuation of more than 338,000 Allied soldiers during the Second World War from the beaches and harbour of Dunkirk, between 26 May and 4 June 1940.

    Our apartment looks out across the exact location where it occurred and this morning we will walk about 2 kms to a famous museum at the port.

    The operation commenced after large numbers of Belgian, British, and French troops were cut off and surrounded by German troops during the six-week Battle of France. The German Panzer units had advanced through Belgium at rapid speed and wanted to catch the French and British off guard and defeat them.

    On the first day, only 7,669 Allied soldiers were evacuated, but by the end of the eighth day, 338,226 had been rescued by a hastily assembled fleet of over 800 vessels. Many were French and from Belgium too.

    Some were ferried to the larger ships by what became known as the Little Ships of Dunkirk, a flotilla of hundreds of merchant marine boats, fishing boats, pleasure craft, yachts, and lifeboats.

    It is estimated that around 22,000 allied troops were killed in the Battle of Dunkirk and around 2,000 civilians lost their lives. The German military suffered around 20,000 casualties either wounded, killed or missing.

    The flotilla of boats from England were sent over to collect troops from the beach because it was too shallow to get rescue ships in close. They ferried troops back and forwards in very difficult circumstances because of the constant bombardment and machine gun fire from the Germans.

    Further down the beach was the wharf that could berth ships, but it was a target for the Luftwaffe as it was so crowded with troops. The French & British command decided to do evacuations only at night as the casualties were too high during the day.

    At one stage the troops creatively pushed military vehicles into the sea to build a pontoon.

    After time ran out for evacuations the flotilla returned laden with anyone who could climb aboard.

    The French front held off the nazis as long as they could but eventually 35,000 troops surrendered on the beach. The Germans took full advantage of the vehicles, food and ammunition that the Allies had built up in Dunkirk.

    Whilst the retreat was a setback the “spirit of Dunkirk” was born in Britain and their resolve was to win the war.

    France fell three weeks later, and it would be nearly four years later before they were liberated.

    Later in the afternoon we embarked on our drive to Belgium which is not too far north.

    Sharon said “it’s raining, you're driving a manual, you can’t read the signs and you are on the wrong side of the road! What could possibly go wrong!”

    Well, we had a great day. My copilot and google maps got us through the day. We drove for an hour to Tyne Cot.

    Tyne Cot Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery and Memorial to the Missing is a Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) burial ground for the dead of the First World War in the Ypres Salient on the Western Front. It is the largest cemetery for Commonwealth forces in the world, for any war. The cemetery and its surrounding memorial are located outside Passendale, near Zonnebeke in Belgium. There are 22,000 graves here.

    Stats:
    Australia: 1,353,
    New Zealand: 519

    Total burials
    11,965, of which 8,369 are unnamed

    This cemetery has a significance for Aussies because it was in 1917 there was a German occupied blockhouse on this site as the highest point of area. The Australian troops broke through and captured the two concrete bunkers that are still in the cemetery.

    Together with the Kiwis the Aussies tried to advance in vain until the Canadians arrived and saved the day.

    The original cemetery was a mass burial site with each corpse being buried and marked with a wooden cross marking the trooper when possible. Over time the graves were renovated into a beautiful but solemn remembrance cemetery.

    The cost of lives in this part of the war was over 295,000 and we saw more cemeteries as we drove on to Ypres for the Menin Gate Last Post ceremony.
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  • Last Post in Ypres, Belgium

    30 czerwca 2023, Belgia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Last night we went to Ypres which is where every evening at 8pm they close the Menin Arch to present the Last Post ceremony.

    We drove through the arch into the main town square where we were lucky to find a park and then grab a meal at one of the many restaurants on offer.

    We walked back towards the arch and found some Belgium chocolate shops. Couldn’t resist a quick purchase.

    The Menin Arch is undergoing a major renovation and clean, so our pictures are not that great. The ones below are “borrowed”.

    The site of the Menin Gate was chosen because of the hundreds of thousands of men who passed through it on their way to the battlefields. It commemorates casualties from the forces of Australia, Canada, India, South Africa and United Kingdom who died in the war.

    A huge crowd gathers which is amazing given this occurs every night. The area around Ypres is where the majority of The Great War (later named WW1) fighting occurred.

    The town council meets the school children, veterans, dignitaries and military personnel that are going to participate in the Last Post service. There is a young man, whom we later learn was a student from somewhere in UK, was the bag piper for the night. He did an amazing job. Just as it starts, we are told not to applaud.

    Wreaths are laid and the service is quite moving. It is great to see so many young people paying their respect while everyone is silent.

    Afterwards the crowd quietly disperses.

    Our drive back to Dunkerque was under an hour and we enjoyed a beautiful sunset from the balcony.

    Today is now a catch-up day. Lots of FaceTime with friends and family, a walk on the beach, laundry time and tonight we are doing seafood. Mussels are a specialty in this part of the world!
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  • Calais, France

    1 lipca 2023, Francja ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Today we decided on a day trip to Calais.

    Calais is a port city and is by far the largest city in this part of coastal France. It also overlooks the Strait of Dover, the narrowest point in the English Channel, which is only 34 km (21 mi) wide here and is the closest French town to England. The White Cliffs of Dover can easily be seen on a clear day from Calais.

    We nearly accidentally drove into where the ferries between France and England operate.

    We had a great day visiting the popular spots and then we drove back. The freeways are easy to drive on with the speed limit varying from 130km to 90km.

    When we got back there was a flurry of activity on the boardwalk, but we didn’t know what it was all about.

    All of sudden there were floats passing our balcony. What a great way to see Dunkerque alive on a Saturday on our last day here.
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  • Dunkerque to Hon Fleur via Somme

    2 lipca 2023, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Big driving day today. We will do at least 5 hours maybe more.

    We got out early to avoid traffic and we had the roads to ourselves. Freeways can be as fast as 130 Kmh but most of the time it is 80.

    The Western Front had a significant battle where the Anzacs and the French fought for weeks with horrible casualties in WW1

    We will go to where it happened and visit the Australian National Memorial, Villers-Bretonneux which is the main memorial to Australian military personnel. It is located on the Route Villiers-Bretonneux, between the towns of Fouilloy and Villers-Bretonneux, in the Somme district.

    The cemetery itself is beautifully kept and up the end is a tower with an honor board. We climbed to the top for a great view.

    Then you go underground and experience hi tech video re-enactments. Really impressive. Very glad we did the visit.

    Now we head south and being a Sunday, we are struggling to find anything open. We drove through dozens of classic French villages but no luck.

    Finally, there was a roadhouse off the freeway, so we got sustenance and fuel. On the bowser you swipe a card and confirm your pump and fuel type. It releases the fuel and then charges the cost. Sounds easy but try doing it in French!

    By late afternoon we found Hon Fleur and it looks incredible. We are here for 5 nights.
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  • Honfleur

    3 lipca 2023, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    From the moment you arrive you are stunned by the beauty of Honfleur.

    Honfleur is best-known for its old port which was an important trading port during the Middle Ages. The city is also quite famous for its wooden main church and its association with impressionist artists such as Courbet, Boudin, and Claude Monet.

    Our Airbnb is on the 2nd floor above a restaurant. The view is over a courtyard full of people soaking the sun and drinking cider. It seems this is the drink of choice here. We even have a complimentary bottle in our fridge. That’s our windows on the second floor above La Cantina.

    The port is surrounded by bars and restaurants so there will be no shortage of choice to find somewhere to eat.

    With so much driving yesterday, we will chill out and spend the day doing a supermarket shop and retail therapy in Honfleur.

    Sharon is currently trying to master the washer dryer. We found a French manual, but it is all guesswork from here. We assume it washes and then flips to a dryer. Clever.

    The church bell tolls on the hour and there is much to see. A horse & carriage just passed our balcony. The whole town is cobblestone, so you have to watch your step. Such a pretty place. One of the top places we have ever stayed.

    News is coming through on the riots in Paris. We are over 2.5 hours from there so do not feel any danger. We leave France from a local port on Friday.
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  • Normandy

    4 lipca 2023, Francja ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Today is all about D Day and the invasion on the Normandy coast. Operation Overlord as it was known.

    The Caen WW2 Museum was built on top of the former underground France headquarters for the German generals and is every inch a lesson in symbolism.

    You enter the building through a small door in the middle of a huge flat façade representing the Allies’ breach of the seemingly impenetrable Nazi Atlantic wall.

    The museum covers all the obvious topics:
    · the start and globalization of the war,
    · the various resistance movements,
    · genocide and mass violence,
    · liberation and the end of the war,
    · the D-Day landings and the Battle of Normandy.

    My favorite picture is of the dummy air troopers that they dropped over Le Havre to the north to fool the Germans about the number of air troops coming! There were lots of other decoys that day.

    A short drive later and we are at the first of the five beaches that were the landings of the Allies. Arromanches-les-Bains was charming and was called Gold Beach for the landing. It played an invaluable part in the D-Day landings because the Allies built an artificial harbor to facilitate the unloading of vehicles, materials, and troops into Western Europe. Mulberry Harbor, as it’s formally known, had, by June 12, 1944, helped bring 300,000 men, 54,000 vehicles, and 104,000 tons of supplies. There are still remnants of the harbour showing off the beach.

    Next stop was the most emotional site of the day.

    The Normandy American Cemetery is a perfectly manicured US maintained cemetery and memorial to just under 10,000 soldiers. Each grave is immaculate, and each row precisely and symmetrically aligned.

    Families were given a choice of the remains being brought home or they could have their loved ones buried here.

    The cemetery overlooks Omaha Beach, another famous landing zone. The French government gave this land to the United States free of charge and taxation to use forever and it is now considered American soil.

    On to Pointe du Hoc where the U.S. Army captured German Battery Guns after scaling the cliffs—a feat many previously believed to be impossible. It is between Omaha and Utah landing zones.

    They used grappling hooks and rope ladders that were fired from rocket launchers on their landing crafts. These guys scaled a cliff with just rope while being shot at with automatic weapons from all angles.

    Today, Pointe do Hoc still has its German gun casements and bunkers, is completely surrounded by bomb craters. These bomb craters provide a visual you can’t get anywhere else. No other D-Day sites have bomb craters left intact. There are so many as far as the eye can see to give you an idea of the bombardment.

    Our Normandy day has been long and challenging so now we turned our car back toward Honfleur. Unfortunately, we were met with a lashing storm which last several hours. The traffic was really congested but we got back safely.

    Our Airbnb host has recommended a seafood restaurant we are going to try tonight.
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  • Honfleur wandering about

    5 lipca 2023, Francja ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Forget the French Riviera or Paris this place blows them away. This would have to be one of the best places we have ever stayed.

    After yesterday’s drive and the emotion of Normandy today we will chill and wander around Honfleur.

    The sun is out and so was Sharon with a pic from our apartment window.

    St Catherine church has a courtyard market, so we checked that out just as it struck midday, and the church bells rang right above us.

    Our host suggested a visit to Tripod Gardens, so we walked there, and it was hidden in amongst some buildings. The entry had a mosaic snail on it.

    The further into the backstreets you go the narrower the roads. I liked the cars that are so small you park them anywhere.

    Bought nougat from a shop that sells it by cutting from wheels as big as the cheese ones you have here in France too.

    Dinner by the port as Honfleur is packed and night market stalls are being set up. Even the Ferris wheel is moving for the first time this week.

    What a great day.
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  • Mont St Michel

    6 lipca 2023, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We have a bit of a drive today across from Honfleur to Mont St Michel.

    This is the 2nd most popular tourist spot after the Eiffel Tower.

    It is basically an island on a sand bar that was first settled in about 708 AD and as time has passed it has been built into this extraordinary abbey.

    You first see it from about 40 kms out and already the tourism factor has kicked in.

    We chose the shuttle and after a lengthy queue we were taken on to the island. This is a wow! How did they build this?

    Mont-Saint-Michel lies approximately one kilometre off France's north-western coast, at the mouth of the Couesnon River near Avranches and is 7 hectares in size.

    Only 33 people are considered permanent residents. While we were here it was packed. The French government is considering limiting the numbers allowed each day on to Mont St Michel. We think this is a good idea.

    Today we were lucky enough to see a magical island topped by a gravity-defying abbey, the Mont-Saint-Michel and its Bay count among France’s most stunning sights. For centuries one of Europe’s major pilgrimage destinations, this holy island is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as is its breathtaking bay.

    Mont-Saint-Michel has been prone to silting up over the last couple of centuries. Man-made activities, including farming and building a causeway to the Mont, have added to this problem. However, a major conservation project back in 2015 has helped restore island status to the Mont-Saint-Michel. The main river into the bay, the Couesnon, has now been left to flow more freely so that sediments are washed out to sea, and a bridge has replaced the former causeway, enabling the sea to once again more fully surround the mont at particularly high tides.

    The abbey is quite a climb and then they sting you again to go inside. Quite frankly as an Abbey we thought it was a bit bland. Perhaps we have been spoilt with our previous travels.

    The drive back to Honfleur was quick and we arrived safely in time for sunset cocktails from our apartment outlook. We really have been enchanted by Honfleur but tomorrow we head to Cherbourg really early to return the hire car.
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  • Cherbourg, France to the UK

    7 lipca 2023, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Time to say farewell to France and get on a ferry in Cherbourg which is about 2 hours drive north.

    We had to fuel up the hire car before returning it to an office opposite the train station. We struggled to get close to their office because of roadworks.

    After nearly 10 days of clean incident free driving wouldn’t you know it, someone rubbed the rear bumper last night, so we failed the inspection and got hit with a bill. Damn. Some miserable driver in the carpark last night must have done it. Avis must make a fortune out these things. You could hardly see the scratch.

    The ferry across the English Channel will take 4.5 hours. We have reserved seating, and it is an absolutely beautiful warm day. Plenty of eating options aboard including duty free. Restocked the Bacardi.

    We really did cover some ground since Dunkerque. France has been great with lots of highlights.

    The Brittany Ferry is more like a cruise ship than a ferry. This is the first time we’ve seen a ferry that runs on LPG. You can have a cabin for extra, but we chose reserved seating.

    Time change for UK has happened and we are approaching Portsmouth. We will walk off after the cars exit. There is quite a big naval base here. This was where the command operated from to orchestrate D Day.

    Our coach to London leaves from another terminus called The Hard Interchange. From here we will go for 2 hours to get London almost entirely on the expressway.

    This is a big travel day. It’s great to be in London again.

    Our Uber did his best with the traffic as we passed Big Ben, Westminster Abbey and the London Eye. Every bar and restaurant are brim full.

    We will sleep well tonight.
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  • Bethany Green, London

    8 lipca 2023, Anglia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Our Airbnb is terrific. It’s on the 3rd floor of a block of flats and has a lovely Juliet balcony overlooking a park.

    The underground is just a quick 10-minute walk so we are all set to have our first day in London.

    Local Middle Eastern brekkie was awesome. This area is really multicultural and is expected to be rainy and humid. Sharon decided she wants her nails done so I will observe and listen to the Dees game back home.

    The London Underground is so easy to use, and you no longer need an Oyster card, just tap on and off with a debit card now.

    We popped up at Oxford Circus and started with a walk down Carnaby Street. Window shopped right through to Piccadilly Circus, and it was time to meet Steve for lunch. We were a bit early, so we had a pint in a pub, as you do.

    Steve is one of our buddies' cousins. We stayed with him and his partner Ricky last year. He was so excited to see us as we were him. He took us to one of his favourite pubs. The Clachan is a public house and is a Grade II listed building, built in 1898.
    I ate Bangers & Mash washed down with a pint of London Pride.

    After lunch Steve wanted to take us next door to Liberty which is the oldest department store known best for its fabrics and haberdashery.

    Said goodbye to Steve. He had to drive back to Headley Down, so we decided to walk to Buckingham Palace. Even though we have been here quite a few times it still captures your imagination.

    It is very wet and very busy today our favourite moment was a peddle powered bar that seats 14 people and a bar person. The one we watched was a hen's party. So funny watching 10 drunken ladies trying to peddle to move through the intersection.

    Next stroll was through St James Park along the Princess Diana Memorial Walk. All of London’s beauty was on display and we even had a squirrel check us out.

    Our show tonight is Groundhog Day which is a musical adaption from the original movie, but the lyrics and music was written by Tim Minchin. We were early so we enjoyed a mojito at a Cuban bar opposite the Old Vic Theatre.

    The show was outstanding. Lively choreography, singing, stunning set changes and even some illusions. Minchin put his unique way with words into the score and we thought it was one of the best shows we have seen. The cast received a standing ovation.

    What a great day. Our feet are sore.
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  • Camden Town

    9 lipca 2023, Anglia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Last full day in London so we took the tube to Paddington where Sharon wanted to find a unique clock.

    The clock is high up on a wall over the footpath and has an image of a man in it busy cleaning and wiping inside the clock. When he wipes the hands disappear and so then he realizes what he has done so he draws them on the face again on the actual time. Very clever and entertaining.

    After this we walk for a few kilometers to Camden Market. We went there with Melissa about 11 years ago.

    It is a hugely popular market with many many pop-up food stalls. Our selection was Vietnamese chicken baguettes which were yummy.

    Amy Winehouse is celebrated here. She must have come from this area. The crowds are massive, and you feel choked after a while.

    At 4:30pm we boarded our canal boat the Jenny Wren. It departs from an active lock that is over 100 years old.

    It took us up the canals past the zoo, Lords cricket ground and to a part of the canals called Little Venice. You get to see some huge mansions with vast gardens. One recently sold for $A160,000,000!

    What is a bit disturbing are the homeless people living in tents along the canal. If fact everywhere we have travelled in London, you see rough sleepers. On the tube it is not unusual to be approached for food or money.

    Back to Camden Market and we have had enough of the crowds, so we headed back to Bethnal Green.

    We enjoyed the summer sunset from our balcony and started packing up. Time to move on tomorrow.
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