Our winter getaway this year will take us to The Netherlands for a cruise around Norway. Next stop will be a few weeks in France before we cross The Channel to visit friends in England. The final stage of our holiday is to explore Greece. Read more
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  • Day 11

    Amsterdam to Paris

    June 25, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    The disembarkation process is so clever and efficient that we found ourselves curbside earlier than expected. To our shock the Rotterdam taxi drivers were like a feeding frenzy. We were forced to pay 80 euros for a 15 minute trip. Normally the fare would be 35 euros, but they knew we had no alternative. Anyway, our driver copped a served from Sharon and off we went.

    The Schiedam Centrum station was disgusting. Dirty, smelly and the lift didn’t work. Carrying the bags was hard yakka.

    An hour later we are back at Amsterdam central station. On the train ride there were heaps of bicycles. One modern bike beside us had fancy technology. The owner locked it with his phone app and when anyone bumped it a hidden speaker plays a lion roar and the lights flash.

    Next leg is from here to Paris via Brussels. Takes about 4 hours and is nice and comfortable. On several stretches between Amsterdam and Paris, Thalys VFT runs at 300 km/h! The countryside is very green, and we have struck a patch of really warm days.
    Blink and you miss it.

    An hour out of Paris the train had its third breakdown. We sat for a while and then we took off again. At last, we made it to Paris, but we were cutting it close to make our Seine River sunset cruise.

    There we were hardly any taxis but finally we squeezed into a Tesla taxi and off we went to our hotel. I raced in with the bags and went back to the taxi. He then took us to the pier where the boat departed. We had 5 mins to spare, or they would have left without us. Phew!

    The cruise was terrific, and we enjoyed just sitting back and taking in all the sights. It is hot here and so heaps of people are just gathering beside the river for picnics or a bottle of wine.

    After the cruise we walked to the grounds behind the Eiffel Tower. It was now nearly 10pm and there were thousands there waiting for the tower to light up. We just joined in and lay on the grass. At 11pm the tower sparkles with lights. Everyone claps and cheers and head off.

    We walked to our hotel. What a big day we have just had.
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  • Day 12

    Paris - always magnificent

    June 26, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Unbelievably we woke up at 11am. Our hotel is so quiet and comfortable that we just slept in late like never before.

    We are staying a great spot. Classic Paris hotel of five floors and the tiniest lift you have ever seen. Room for one and a bag!

    Plenty of restaurants and shops so we grabbed some brunch and decided to walk to the Arc de Triomphe.

    Along the way we stopped at the Princess Diana tribute over the tunnel where she lost her life. There are hundreds of padlocks on the chain around the memorial. Sad moment.

    The Arc was really busy, but we bought our tickets ahead of time and jumped the queue. The view from the top is superb but be prepared for 284 steps up and then back. You get a 360 view of all of Paris. The Arc de Triomphe de l'Étoile is one of the most famous monuments in Paris, standing at the western end of the Champs-Élysées at the centre of Place Charles de Gaulle. It was built in 1806 to commemorate all the French people who died in wars.

    The subway system RER was our savior as we got a day ticket and plotted our next journey.

    We decided to check out a few spots from Emily in Paris which was a tv series we recently enjoyed at home. First was Gabriel’s restaurant which is really Terra Nera. The owner hates all the photographers, but we still grabbed a pic or two.

    Next stop Pantheon which was really close and then back on the tube to Colonnes de Buren at Palau’s Royal. This was in an episode where Emily filmed a perfume ad, and her Instagram account went ballistic.

    We walked a lot today and saw heaps. Paris is an enchanting place; we wish they could do better with the litter everywhere.
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  • Day 13

    Paris to Dunkerque

    June 27, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Hotel breaky was our best option before our Uber man picked us up at 11am to take us to Gard de Nord station. In peak hour it was slow going but there were lots of great sights to see on the journey.

    It will take 2 hours to Dunkerque which is north on the coastal beach and very close to the Belgium border.

    We chose Dunkeque to stay for five nights for several reasons. Firstly, our Airbnb is right on the beach above a restaurant so Sharon will be able to do her fair share of water gazing.

    Secondly this is a historic site for fighting WW1 & there is of course the massive retreat and evacuation that occurred here at the beginning of WW2.

    Next, we wanted to hire a car and experience Provincial France having been to the big cities a few times. There are plans to go to nearby Belgium too.

    We settled into the apartment which is every bit as good as the pictures. A walk to Carrfours for supplies and we were ready to kick back and enjoy a balcony sip.

    The restaurant below was getting a new extension put out the front, so we got here just in time to watch the workers finish the job.

    Our view is called Malo Beach which is obviously a holiday precinct. The boardwalk is huge and there are many choices for eateries or a treat.

    The restaurants we like were fully booked so we reserved one for tomorrow night and settled for a burger tonight.
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  • Day 14

    Dunkerque

    June 28, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    The hire car was ready at 9am so we caught the free bus service back to the Gard (station) to pick it up from Avis. We will keep this car for nine days as we head down the coast towards Normandy.

    It is a tiny Toyota manual - cheap and cheerful. Just enough room for the two of us and our bags. Now for the difficult part. Sharon is terrified of me driving on the wrong side of the road, so I suggested we start with a short 6-minute drive to the Dunkerque Wednesday market.

    We managed to find a park and went shopping. Sharon bought a pair of jeans while I was more food orientated and went for the fromage. So cheap and such good quality. More fruit and bread were added, and we made our way back to the apartment. There was a park just around the corner from our digs so that's enough car driving for today.

    In the afternoon we took a long walk down the beach which is dead flat and about 15 kms long. The buildings along the shore are mostly from the 50's or newer. The bombardment of Dunkerque destroyed 80% of the town. The old buildings really stand out.

    The beach is a hive of activity. Wind sailing and cart sailing seem popular. There were a few kites up as it gets windy in the afternoon here. The boardwalk is very wide, and most restaurants have indoor seating, out the front seating and then on the actual beach tables enclosed to protect from the wind.

    Tonight, we dine next door at Brasserie de la Plage. We think it specializes in steak and seafood.
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  • Day 15

    Dunkerque Operation Dynamo

    June 29, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The Dunkirk evacuation, codenamed Operation Dynamo and also known as the Miracle of Dunkirk was the evacuation of more than 338,000 Allied soldiers during the Second World War from the beaches and harbour of Dunkirk, between 26 May and 4 June 1940.

    Our apartment looks out across the exact location where it occurred and this morning we will walk about 2 kms to a famous museum at the port.

    The operation commenced after large numbers of Belgian, British, and French troops were cut off and surrounded by German troops during the six-week Battle of France. The German Panzer units had advanced through Belgium at rapid speed and wanted to catch the French and British off guard and defeat them.

    On the first day, only 7,669 Allied soldiers were evacuated, but by the end of the eighth day, 338,226 had been rescued by a hastily assembled fleet of over 800 vessels. Many were French and from Belgium too.

    Some were ferried to the larger ships by what became known as the Little Ships of Dunkirk, a flotilla of hundreds of merchant marine boats, fishing boats, pleasure craft, yachts, and lifeboats.

    It is estimated that around 22,000 allied troops were killed in the Battle of Dunkirk and around 2,000 civilians lost their lives. The German military suffered around 20,000 casualties either wounded, killed or missing.

    The flotilla of boats from England were sent over to collect troops from the beach because it was too shallow to get rescue ships in close. They ferried troops back and forwards in very difficult circumstances because of the constant bombardment and machine gun fire from the Germans.

    Further down the beach was the wharf that could berth ships, but it was a target for the Luftwaffe as it was so crowded with troops. The French & British command decided to do evacuations only at night as the casualties were too high during the day.

    At one stage the troops creatively pushed military vehicles into the sea to build a pontoon.

    After time ran out for evacuations the flotilla returned laden with anyone who could climb aboard.

    The French front held off the nazis as long as they could but eventually 35,000 troops surrendered on the beach. The Germans took full advantage of the vehicles, food and ammunition that the Allies had built up in Dunkirk.

    Whilst the retreat was a setback the “spirit of Dunkirk” was born in Britain and their resolve was to win the war.

    France fell three weeks later, and it would be nearly four years later before they were liberated.

    Later in the afternoon we embarked on our drive to Belgium which is not too far north.

    Sharon said “it’s raining, you're driving a manual, you can’t read the signs and you are on the wrong side of the road! What could possibly go wrong!”

    Well, we had a great day. My copilot and google maps got us through the day. We drove for an hour to Tyne Cot.

    Tyne Cot Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery and Memorial to the Missing is a Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) burial ground for the dead of the First World War in the Ypres Salient on the Western Front. It is the largest cemetery for Commonwealth forces in the world, for any war. The cemetery and its surrounding memorial are located outside Passendale, near Zonnebeke in Belgium. There are 22,000 graves here.

    Stats:
    Australia: 1,353,
    New Zealand: 519

    Total burials
    11,965, of which 8,369 are unnamed

    This cemetery has a significance for Aussies because it was in 1917 there was a German occupied blockhouse on this site as the highest point of area. The Australian troops broke through and captured the two concrete bunkers that are still in the cemetery.

    Together with the Kiwis the Aussies tried to advance in vain until the Canadians arrived and saved the day.

    The original cemetery was a mass burial site with each corpse being buried and marked with a wooden cross marking the trooper when possible. Over time the graves were renovated into a beautiful but solemn remembrance cemetery.

    The cost of lives in this part of the war was over 295,000 and we saw more cemeteries as we drove on to Ypres for the Menin Gate Last Post ceremony.
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  • Day 16

    Last Post in Ypres, Belgium

    June 30, 2023 in Belgium ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Last night we went to Ypres which is where every evening at 8pm they close the Menin Arch to present the Last Post ceremony.

    We drove through the arch into the main town square where we were lucky to find a park and then grab a meal at one of the many restaurants on offer.

    We walked back towards the arch and found some Belgium chocolate shops. Couldn’t resist a quick purchase.

    The Menin Arch is undergoing a major renovation and clean, so our pictures are not that great. The ones below are “borrowed”.

    The site of the Menin Gate was chosen because of the hundreds of thousands of men who passed through it on their way to the battlefields. It commemorates casualties from the forces of Australia, Canada, India, South Africa and United Kingdom who died in the war.

    A huge crowd gathers which is amazing given this occurs every night. The area around Ypres is where the majority of The Great War (later named WW1) fighting occurred.

    The town council meets the school children, veterans, dignitaries and military personnel that are going to participate in the Last Post service. There is a young man, whom we later learn was a student from somewhere in UK, was the bag piper for the night. He did an amazing job. Just as it starts, we are told not to applaud.

    Wreaths are laid and the service is quite moving. It is great to see so many young people paying their respect while everyone is silent.

    Afterwards the crowd quietly disperses.

    Our drive back to Dunkerque was under an hour and we enjoyed a beautiful sunset from the balcony.

    Today is now a catch-up day. Lots of FaceTime with friends and family, a walk on the beach, laundry time and tonight we are doing seafood. Mussels are a specialty in this part of the world!
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  • Day 17

    Calais, France

    July 1, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Today we decided on a day trip to Calais.

    Calais is a port city and is by far the largest city in this part of coastal France. It also overlooks the Strait of Dover, the narrowest point in the English Channel, which is only 34 km (21 mi) wide here and is the closest French town to England. The White Cliffs of Dover can easily be seen on a clear day from Calais.

    We nearly accidentally drove into where the ferries between France and England operate.

    We had a great day visiting the popular spots and then we drove back. The freeways are easy to drive on with the speed limit varying from 130km to 90km.

    When we got back there was a flurry of activity on the boardwalk, but we didn’t know what it was all about.

    All of sudden there were floats passing our balcony. What a great way to see Dunkerque alive on a Saturday on our last day here.
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  • Day 18

    Dunkerque to Hon Fleur via Somme

    July 2, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Big driving day today. We will do at least 5 hours maybe more.

    We got out early to avoid traffic and we had the roads to ourselves. Freeways can be as fast as 130 Kmh but most of the time it is 80.

    The Western Front had a significant battle where the Anzacs and the French fought for weeks with horrible casualties in WW1

    We will go to where it happened and visit the Australian National Memorial, Villers-Bretonneux which is the main memorial to Australian military personnel. It is located on the Route Villiers-Bretonneux, between the towns of Fouilloy and Villers-Bretonneux, in the Somme district.

    The cemetery itself is beautifully kept and up the end is a tower with an honor board. We climbed to the top for a great view.

    Then you go underground and experience hi tech video re-enactments. Really impressive. Very glad we did the visit.

    Now we head south and being a Sunday, we are struggling to find anything open. We drove through dozens of classic French villages but no luck.

    Finally, there was a roadhouse off the freeway, so we got sustenance and fuel. On the bowser you swipe a card and confirm your pump and fuel type. It releases the fuel and then charges the cost. Sounds easy but try doing it in French!

    By late afternoon we found Hon Fleur and it looks incredible. We are here for 5 nights.
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  • Day 19

    Honfleur

    July 3, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    From the moment you arrive you are stunned by the beauty of Honfleur.

    Honfleur is best-known for its old port which was an important trading port during the Middle Ages. The city is also quite famous for its wooden main church and its association with impressionist artists such as Courbet, Boudin, and Claude Monet.

    Our Airbnb is on the 2nd floor above a restaurant. The view is over a courtyard full of people soaking the sun and drinking cider. It seems this is the drink of choice here. We even have a complimentary bottle in our fridge. That’s our windows on the second floor above La Cantina.

    The port is surrounded by bars and restaurants so there will be no shortage of choice to find somewhere to eat.

    With so much driving yesterday, we will chill out and spend the day doing a supermarket shop and retail therapy in Honfleur.

    Sharon is currently trying to master the washer dryer. We found a French manual, but it is all guesswork from here. We assume it washes and then flips to a dryer. Clever.

    The church bell tolls on the hour and there is much to see. A horse & carriage just passed our balcony. The whole town is cobblestone, so you have to watch your step. Such a pretty place. One of the top places we have ever stayed.

    News is coming through on the riots in Paris. We are over 2.5 hours from there so do not feel any danger. We leave France from a local port on Friday.
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  • Day 20

    Normandy

    July 4, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Today is all about D Day and the invasion on the Normandy coast. Operation Overlord as it was known.

    The Caen WW2 Museum was built on top of the former underground France headquarters for the German generals and is every inch a lesson in symbolism.

    You enter the building through a small door in the middle of a huge flat façade representing the Allies’ breach of the seemingly impenetrable Nazi Atlantic wall.

    The museum covers all the obvious topics:
    · the start and globalization of the war,
    · the various resistance movements,
    · genocide and mass violence,
    · liberation and the end of the war,
    · the D-Day landings and the Battle of Normandy.

    My favorite picture is of the dummy air troopers that they dropped over Le Havre to the north to fool the Germans about the number of air troops coming! There were lots of other decoys that day.

    A short drive later and we are at the first of the five beaches that were the landings of the Allies. Arromanches-les-Bains was charming and was called Gold Beach for the landing. It played an invaluable part in the D-Day landings because the Allies built an artificial harbor to facilitate the unloading of vehicles, materials, and troops into Western Europe. Mulberry Harbor, as it’s formally known, had, by June 12, 1944, helped bring 300,000 men, 54,000 vehicles, and 104,000 tons of supplies. There are still remnants of the harbour showing off the beach.

    Next stop was the most emotional site of the day.

    The Normandy American Cemetery is a perfectly manicured US maintained cemetery and memorial to just under 10,000 soldiers. Each grave is immaculate, and each row precisely and symmetrically aligned.

    Families were given a choice of the remains being brought home or they could have their loved ones buried here.

    The cemetery overlooks Omaha Beach, another famous landing zone. The French government gave this land to the United States free of charge and taxation to use forever and it is now considered American soil.

    On to Pointe du Hoc where the U.S. Army captured German Battery Guns after scaling the cliffs—a feat many previously believed to be impossible. It is between Omaha and Utah landing zones.

    They used grappling hooks and rope ladders that were fired from rocket launchers on their landing crafts. These guys scaled a cliff with just rope while being shot at with automatic weapons from all angles.

    Today, Pointe do Hoc still has its German gun casements and bunkers, is completely surrounded by bomb craters. These bomb craters provide a visual you can’t get anywhere else. No other D-Day sites have bomb craters left intact. There are so many as far as the eye can see to give you an idea of the bombardment.

    Our Normandy day has been long and challenging so now we turned our car back toward Honfleur. Unfortunately, we were met with a lashing storm which last several hours. The traffic was really congested but we got back safely.

    Our Airbnb host has recommended a seafood restaurant we are going to try tonight.
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