Cliche U.K. Wanderlust Blog

October - November 2018
Adventures though the Republic of Ireland, Wales, England, Scotland, and North Ireland Read more
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  • Day 7

    Kilmainham Gaol

    October 22, 2018 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    So after going to my cousins house last night, and sleeping amazingly well, I had an almost luxurious and highly relaxing morning. I was able to do laundry, thank goodness, have breakfast, and I even got in some reading. Now, I've been told by at least four people that I need to see Kilmainham Gaol, the historic jail in Dublin. It's so popular you actually have to book ahead, and I was fortunate enough to get a tour at 1:30, the earliest available. This is supposed to be one of the most interesting and informative places in Dublin, at least according to those telling me to visit. Even those who live locally come for the tours. Now this place is almost all the way on the other side of Dublin from my cousins house, so I figured, instead of crunching time by taking a bus I'll hop in a taxi, so I had to download the app (like a local) and make my way over with time to spare. Every taxi driver I've had while here has been extremely friendly, even pointing out landmarks along the way.

    Here are some of the things I learned while on the tour: Kilmainham is over 200 years old, and was an active jail from 1796 to 1924. While open there was no separation between types of prisoners, or between men women and children, many including political prisoners. The west wing is the oldest section of the jail, each room intending to hold one one person, but when it was most crowded rooms would have up to five. Gas lines were added to the west wing in late 1840's, and were first added in the infirmary in 1845. Kilmainham suffered severe overcrowding, partially due to the vagrancy act of 1847. Some of the youngest who were imprisoned were as young as five years old. Only the condemned man's cell housed one occupant at a time. The victorian wing opened in 1862 and overcrowding became less of a problem. The panopticon design was meant to let in light, said to be cleansing, as well as so they could all be watched at the same time. There even used to be carpet along the floor so prisoners couldn't hear the guards coming to check on them. After walking through the jail we were lead to the exercise yard. Early on in the history it was fairly easy to escape due to lack of security, or guards could be bribed; in fact, in 1921 three men were able to escape with the help of two guards and smuggled bolt cutters. The last place we saw during the tour was the stonebreakers yard, which is not visible from any windows from the jail, and that's perhaps why it was the chosen location for 14 executions after the Easter uprising. This was an amazing, highly informative, and incredibly somber tour.
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  • Day 8

    A ferry by any other name...

    October 23, 2018, Irish Sea ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    So, after getting up at 6:30, showering, and writing a quick thank you note, I was on my way. It turns out you have to be at the ferry a half hour early, but they recomend a full hour before it leaves. So I was thrilled when my first taxi cancelled on me. After getting a cab, and saying goodbye to my cousin, we headed off. Turns out a port can be confusing. We pulled up at the wrong terminal (I blame the email confirmation), although from this spot I could see that the ships were HUGE. I'm talking cruise liner size. When we got to the right one, they said they were about to close, so after panicking, I thanked my driver and rushed in. Fortunately, I was able to get my ticket and rush on to the bus that transports you to the ship. Two steps on to the bus and I realized, I lost my wallet... I lost my wallet!! This has my everything. I was doomed without it. I checked my pockets, my bag, my coat. I was free falling in to a panic attack. I couldn't go to Wales, I couldn't call the driver, I thought maybe I had left it at my family's house. Worst outcome, I head back to their home and get another ferry. I stepped off the bus, making sure to take my bag with me (I thought it would be odd for it to make it to Wales without me.) Everyone I passed asked why I was leaving, and I'd replay in a shrill voice "I lost my wallet." Off the bus and in to the building, I saw two men who worked for the ferry walking towards me, one of them blessedly holding my teal wallet. He had it opened (like I cared) and said he was looking for the ID of whoever owned it, and I think I nearly cried. Thanking him profusely, I turned back so I could still get on the bus to the ferry, and one jokingly said I owed him a kiss. Naturally, I blew him a kiss and ran for the bus. We were about halfway to the "ferry" when I just started laughing. It figures that if my wallet went missing it wouldn't be because of a mugging or pickpocket, but my own panicked carelessness. I think the woman next to me was concerned because she started rubbing my back and asking how I was, and I had to respond that I was perfectly alright, but it was quite the way to get your heart pumping in the morning. Somehow, it all worked out, and I made it on to the ship. Climbing the stairs from what I guess you might call a garage I was able to find a door that lead outside, because I certainly needed some fresh air after that ordeal, and even an area where I could take some obligatory pictures. After making my back down, throughly chilled, I found where the grill was so I could get my breakfast. Nothing works up an appetite like an adrenalin rush. It was a hell of a way to start my day, but it's all looking up from here.Read more

  • Day 8

    Watch Out Wales

    October 23, 2018 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    After a lovely trip on the ferry we finally arrived in Holyhead. I headed straight for the maps and bus routes, and realized that to see the sites I wanted, especially with them being so spread out, it would be really difficult. Half my day was already gone because things seem to open late and close early in the more rural areas, and I thought I should probably just try and get to my hostel. What should I see upon exiting the ferry terminal, a car rental station. Normally I'd be fine just using public transportation, I'd say it's even easier in the cities, but I had to find out. So I asked. The only one left was small (no problem), and a manual (small problem). I haven't driven stick in years, and I don't think I've ever driven it well. So I lied and said it was perfect. No better time to relearn how to drive manual than when you're in another country and driving on the opposite side of what you consider normal. So I got the car, rented a navigation system too, and crossed my fingers things would go well; after all, everything has to be better than this morning. Roughly three attempts at reversing later I was headed to my first destination. I drove what seemed to only be about 30 miles to Caernarfon Castle. Turns out my real obstacle with the car is when I'm going slowly, because parking didn't exactly go smoothly. Then there was obstacle number two, I had forgotten that I needed Pounds in the UK, and not Euros. So after trying to withdraw money from and ATM, and realizing my bank must have thought my information was stolen (but I guess they're doing their job), I had to walk around hoping to find a money exchange so I could pay for parking so I wouldn't get a ticket. Yeah, having a car may not have been my brightest idea. Fortunately, the locals were very helpful pointing me in the right direction, and it was all figured out. I wasn't sure what to expect from this castle, especially because I didn't know anything about it. Before even heading inside there was a sign listing dates of the events that had happened there, and I couldn't wait to see everything. After passing through the entrance you end up in a huge courtyard, with tall walls surrounding you on every side feeling very much like a fortress. I decided I needed to climb a tower immediately. A decent hike up narrow stairs later, I finally made it, and I had also decided that everyone back then was super fit or just stayed on the ground floor. The view was amazing. After taking the photos I'm required to take, I decided to explore all the nooks and crannies I could find, many were dead ends, but most were the way to a new area... or more stairs. Two hours of climbing the castle later, I decided it was time to head on to my next destination. Easier said than done. I wish my problem was something easy, like finding the car, but no. I had returned to face my old foe, reversing. It did not go well, and the whole time I was cursing the very nice woman who let me rent the car in the first place, as well as the lovely looking family watching me struggle and stall the car roughly three dozen times (probably less, but it felt like a million). They were at least smart enough to avoid being hit. Leaving a parking lot has never been more difficult. Having managed to make it on the road without lost of limb or life, I was feeling slightly more confident. Well, it turns out addresses aren't quite as spot on as I thought they were, so be it. I pulled over, because I finally figured out how to slow down without stalling, and decided to just head to my hostel. Turns out the address I had for that wasn't quite where it was located. Fine, I decided why not make the best of the situation, that just means it's time to stop and eat. I can always figure it out once I'm full, and so far the locals have always been extremely helpful. I may have only seen one sight, but that's just the way this worked out. If I'm going to worry about anyone it's going to be the people of Wales while I have this car. Wish me (and them) luckRead more

  • Day 8

    Small Improvements

    October 23, 2018 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    It wasn't until I had already had a handful of "chips" and a few bits of my lava-hot food that I realized that the lamb moussaka has aubergine (eggplant) in it, which I hate, and surprisingly didn't mind. Either this restaurant is the best at making food I don't like and I should have had mushrooms too, or I was very hungry, possibly a combination. In the end though it was a highly satisfying, very filling meal. I also manage to luck out with the locals again and they were able send me on my way to the hostel, as well as recomend a nice way to drive to Cardiff. On my way over I didn't stall the car once! Upon arrival I got the perfect parking spot, a popsicle, and even a bottom bunk; obviously things are going well. It may only be 7, and I'm sure there's plenty of things to do, but I think I like my lazy way of traveling. Tonight will be about more quality time reading, and tomorrow the adventure will start all over again.

    P.S. I feel as if I'll come home with insane legs from all these stairs I've been climbing, or at the very least, the ability to climb more stairs than before.
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  • Day 9

    Full day, in every way

    October 24, 2018 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    So not only did I have a bottom bunk, but I also only had one other person in my room. After we were talking for a bit she told me that she actually studies in Edinburgh, so I'll have a second person to visit while I'm there. Turns out that one week of traveling, walking just about everywhere, and trying to see and remember everything I can really takes it out of you. I was asleep by just after eight. Getting my beauty rest (not that I need it) of about twelve hours, I was refreshed and ready to go. The YHA hostel didn't include breakfast, but did have it to buy, and when you're next to a small town at eight in the morning, it's most certainly the best option. Luckily it wasn't just a toast and cereal situation but a full breakfast, and only £6.50. After eating my fill, and being offered seconds (where would I have put it?), I packed up my things to get ready for the day. But before I left, I absolutely had to check out their rooftop terrace. Holy shit! Not only was the view incredible, but the castle was right there! When I drove in at night I had no idea just how close it was. Finally getting my things in to the car, which I was able to leave at the hostel while going in to town, I started walking down. My new friend walked with me for part of it, and was even able to show me where the entrance to the outer wall was. One of the things I found to be fascinating is that you can walk along the outer wall, which is still standing. I also learned that the castle and wall were built at the same time, and took only four years to complete. Over 700 years old, and still in functioning order. Once I had made my way to the end of the wall, I walked to my next destination... and it wasn't the castle. I actually didn't think I was going to be able to see it because when I was planning my trip I thought it was too far out of my way; I was pretty happy to be wrong. The smallest house in Great Britain! They are really not kidding. I'm not even tall and I don't think I could fit comfortably, but it was pretty fun to check out. Next, I grabbed some coffee at a Costa, which I've seen about as frequently as Starbucks back home. I would also like to say that I got to the castle at about ten past ten, and was literally witnessing shops opening, and some didn't even have signs of life yet. This town may have a major attraction, but it's still a sleepy village.

    For some reason I expect every castle to be the same, but I'm still interested in going to different ones, and I'm always excited once I'm there; so at least it's still a good time. After climbing the ramp to the castle I was immediately greeted with my favorite thing, an information sign. This place was loaded with all sorts of facts and it made my nerd heart sing. Naturally I had to find all of them, all while taking a few hundred photos, and climbing every tower. You might think that once you've climbed one tower, you've climbed them all, but you would only be sort of right... other ones have different perspective for photos. Also, every tower had a different purpose, and though they may be long since empty, I need to see for myself. A few hours of climbing stone steps later, and I was ready for my next stop.

    A short drive later, with no stalling (I even managed to reverse), I arrived at Bodnant Gardens. This place, as I found out, has a rich history and a vast, sloping property that would have probably taken days to see everything. It was home to one of the first suffragettes, and the garden she created was to celebrate women's right to vote. Truly, this place was spectacular. I made sure to get a few hundred photos there as well. Most photos I took are of flowers, the landscape, and even some architecture, but one of my favorite photos is of a "helios chronometer," meaning "sun time measure." When I saw this, let's call it a contraption, I just assumed it was a funky little sun dial, but I was fortunate enough to have a volunteer come over to show me just how wrong I was. He informed me that you input the month and day, then you line up the pinhole to the sun and it would show not only the hour, but the minutes as well... and just as he said this, the sun came out. The sun had been hidden all day, and after letting me see just how this contraption worked, it was hidden by clouds once more. I figured, after a perfect moment like that, I should probably head to my next destination, and only four hours away, Cardiff.
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  • Day 9

    The Country Doesn't Matter

    October 24, 2018 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Quick update, traffic sucks. My four hour drive turned in to a 6+ hour drive, although it certainly did help me with figuring out how to stop and start a manual car. Two stops, with as many bathroom breaks, and the good fortune of finding fruit and a salad along the way, I finally made it to my hostel for the night. Also, McDonald's is at every major rest stop over here too, just not really in other areas. I haven't had any McD's yet, but I'm almost tempted because half the stuff they offer isn't available back home and I have noticed they seem to have better quality fast food here. Who knows how things will go tomorrow, but for now the plan is to go see Cardiff castle, then on to Stonehenge, and ending my day in London. At the very least, I should make it to my hostel in London, or something has gone awry, but I'd make that work for me too. Bring it on, tomorrow, I'm ready.Read more

  • Day 10

    Castle, Henge, and Hostel

    October 25, 2018 in England ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    After an interesting night full of tripping over other people's bags, trying to get my toiletries in total darkness, someone having socks on the heater next to my bed (ew), and then making sure I got up early enough to not get a parking ticket... I finally got started.

    When I went in to Cardiff Castle, again in the city center, I was all set to just explore but when they offered a tour for just £3.50 more I jumped at it. I learned that it was a roman fort built 2000 years ago, but was abandoned by the 5th century, and then became a normand castle. The whole place was in disrepair by the 15th century, until the Victorian period when it was taken over. I wish I could remember by who. The clock tower was built in 1869, and took two years to build, but three to decorate; and that was just the clock tower, the whole thing took 19 years. With the zodiac signs along the roof, windows displaying days of the week, and in the corners the times of day (i.e. sunrise, midday, etc.) My favorite part was the greek monster typhon above the entryway to scare away women from the "smoking lounge." It was an amazing tour, and I know I've said this before, highly informative. If only I had an eidetic memory. The tour lasted about 50 minutes, and I knew I had time to spare on the parking pass, so I made sure to climb the keep that was there. A lot of the castles I've been to have seen almost removed from society, but from the top of the tower was old mixed with new; looking out you could see the castle with new skyscrapers dotting the background. It was quite the juxtaposition. Once I had climbed down, I decided it was time to head to my next stop... Stonehenge.

    After a fairly easy drive, stopping only when I saw something of interest (I still don't know what it was), I'd made it. I really don't quite know what to say about this place. The techniques required to build it is astonishing, but along with that is why they built it, a topic still debated to this day. The types of stones were brought from different areas, and it was also a burial site that they had brought their ancestors to. The stones even align with the sunrise and sunset during the winter solstice (if I remember correctly.) It was astounding, and honestly, I think I've yet to grasp how amazing it was. So, after walking around, and visiting their museum (and gift shop) I decided it was time to head off. Not before I made a new friend though, who also happens to be staying in London, so we exchanged information and said we would meet up later.

    Making my way to London was a breeze, driving in London, not so much. I think my left leg is going to fall off from holding the clutch down so much in traffic. Although not as bad as LA traffic, I'll be pleased to be dropping off the car tomorrow. Once the hostel was finally located I felt a huge sense of relief. This is where I'm going to be spending the next week of my trip, and the reception could not have been better. There was a group of people playing a game in the front, and everyone was laughing and chatting. For a moment I thought maybe it would be a little like a clique, but they quickly included me in their conversation. Once I got my things set up in my bunk, the most spacious one I've had so far, I decided to head downstairs and check out the situation. Within a couple of minutes someone was asking if there was anyone who was willing to play a game of chess, and being a glutton for punishment, I said I'd play. It may have been the best game of chess I've ever played, but I did still lose. Fortunately my competitor wound up being excellent conversation and was able to give me tips about what to see on my stay here, as well as when I head to Edinburgh. Although I only saw two sights today, I'm utterly enervated, and after I return the car tomorrow I think I'll spend the day planning the rest of my trip in London. I'm thinking an actual day of rest might be a good way to keep me going.
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  • Day 11

    A "Quiet" Day

    October 26, 2018 in England ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Today has been wonderful, and I've really done nothing. I got up in the morning, and made sure to return the car, because that was priority number one. I did learn about London's congestion charge, which basically means that if you drive through the middle of London you get hit with a fee. It's only for certain hours, but I couldn't remember when I'd driven in. Then I tried to find an underground so I could get back to my hostel, but there were none near me, but the very polite man at Hertz directed me to a bus stop... that I couldn't use. I guess the bus' don't take cash or coins any more and you either need an "Oyster" card from a tube station (where I was trying to go) or a credit card that has tap, a.k.a. wireless payment. Fortunately I was able to find wifi so I could pull up a map and have it direct me to the closest tube station. It was only a 45 minute walk... in the rain. Naturally when I saw the McDonalds I popped inside, I had only been walking for 10 minutes, but I know free wifi when I see it. I downloaded a taxi app, and I was on my way. Finally getting back to the hostel at around 11, I was extra grateful that today I decided to just take it easy. I went upstairs, and promptly took a nap. Now I get to buy groceries, take a shower, get an oyster card, plan the rest of my trip, and get some laundry done before I'm off and running again tomorrow. You know, really taking it easy.

    Below are some photos of my accommodations (and they are highly impressive), the view from the window by my bed, my handy cupboard by my bed, and a map of where I am.
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  • Day 12

    Good Thing I'm Flexable

    October 27, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    It turns out staying at the hostel for the day was a great idea. I met new people, got groceries, got an oyster card, and just spent time hanging about. I actually ended up staying up way past when I'd normally head to bed talking to people. After finally settling down for the night (2am) I thought I'd just wake up with the sun through my window, after all, the tour I wanted to go on wasn't until 10:30. I thought I'd have loads of time. Waking up at 8:30 I figured I could take a leisurely morning, and a quick shower later I was in the kitchen getting breakfast. Glancing at my phone I realized it was already 10 in the morning! There was no way I could make the 10:30 tour. So I quickly changed my plans for another free tour at 11, I even used the underground to get there. Arriving with fifteen minutes to spare, I found out that the free tour was full. That meant that I had to wait until one for the next group, but I did find out that you can pre book the tour even though it's free. After making sure I was set for that I decided to wander around Covent Garden, a popular shopping center. Not even 30 feet away from where I was standing there was a street performer, or busker as they refer to them here. I watched the end of his very interesting performance and continued to wander. From there I walked in to Apple Market where people were selling their handmade crafts and wares. As my hands have been absolutely freezing I was on the lookout for gloves, and thank goodness I found some. They were definitely over priced, but feeling my fingertips is worth it. After checking out all the booths, and with another hour to kill, I thought it be perfect timing to get some food. Normally I'd just pop in to some shop and grab a sausage roll, but everything in this particular area is some snazzy, and surely overpriced, place. By good luck though, I'm worth an extravagant meal and ended up getting confit duck leg. It was so tender and the braised red cabbage was delicious. Over all it wasn't quite the morning I expected, but it was still fantastic.Read more

  • Day 12

    Making my way downtown...

    October 27, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    Finally, I got to my tour, and it was marvelous. I may have had to walk for almost three hours, in absolutely frigid weather, but it was well worth all the sights I got to see. Some though, were surprisingly unimpressive, but I do still get to say I saw them with my own eyes. If only I had better retention because our guide was so informative and passionate about history. (There's a list of places I saw in the first photo.) Turns out the free walking tour was well worth the money, but don't worry, I tipped my guide. The selfie is actually in front of Buckingham Palace. I also learned that you can't take photos next to the royal guard any more, which is fine because it's for their safety, and the one I have is from a very zoomed in photo. Along our walk we went past Trafalgar Square, which for the life of me I can never seem to remember the name of when I'm telling someone where I went, that was having an event. Apparently this is the "hip" place that has special events and music all the time, so after having a pint in a pub, and collecting my tote from the tour, I headed over. It was "Africa in the Square" with music, and dancing, and fantastic food. I made sure to get some nourishment, which was actually spicy, and delicious. A few very cold hours later, new earrings in tow, and I was making my way back to the hostel. Even as exhausted as I was, I hung out for a few hours with my fellow travelers before heading to bed. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.Read more