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Camino Francés

September - October 2022
A 36-day adventure by Our Camino Francés Read more
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  • TravelerCamino Francés
    1
    Day 36

    Day 36: Santiago de Compostela

    October 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    Weatherwise, today was the dreariest day of our Camino—but our satisfaction in finally reaching Santiago de Compostela far offset the 22 kilometer slog through chilly rain, wind, and fog.

    Plus we then lucked out with a fantastic lunch at Restaurante Barbantes near the Cathedral, followed by a warm welcome at the hostal we’re staying at through Tuesday morning. After pausing to smell countless roses along the Way, I loved finding a fragrant pink rose on the nightstand in our room.

    Once settled in, we walked a few more blocks to get our Compostelas at the Pilgrims Office. It was a pretty expedient process where we scanned a QR code with our phones, filled out an online form, and then got a number that was quickly called via a DMV type digital board. A couple of stamps later, and we’d officially completed our pilgrimage.

    We’re looking forward to the massages we’ve scheduled for tomorrow morning, to touring the Cathedral, and to eating more delicious food over the next couple of days.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Francés
    Day 35

    Day 35: O Pedrouzo

    October 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Today’s 20 kilometers were up and down green hills, where we were accompanied by what felt like hundreds of pilgrims, including several raucous groups getting an early start on the weekend.

    We encountered cattle, tractors, and heavy duty shrub trimming equipment along the Camino today.

    We also came upon Scott from Seattle several times over the course of the day. It was fitting, Allan pointed out, to be seeing him now as we near completion of our Camino since he was the first pilgrim we met.

    We were thankful that the forecast rain mostly held off; we enjoyed our customary first and second breakfast stops, along with a third stop for a light lunch of white bean soup.

    The sun is finally making its presence known as I write in our comfy room at Casa Rural O Acivro.

    Tomorrow, we aim to walk the final 21 kilometers into Santiago de Compostela. It’s hard to believe we’re finally almost there.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Francés
    1
    Day 34

    Day 34: Arzúa

    October 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    We timed our departure from Melide to arrive in Arzúa after noon. With only 13.5 kilometers to walk, we had a rather leisurely start to our day—including the biggest slices of tortilla we’ve encountered on the Camino.

    Once underway, our path meandered up and down hills, past flower and vegetable gardens, plowed fields, and plenty of pastures with horses and cows.

    At one point, a farmer ran a line across the Camino halting pilgrim traffic as he coaxed his cows from one pasture to another.

    We stopped for second cups of coffee in A Peroxa, and were delighted to bump into Scott from Seattle, the pilgrim we’d shared a Tesla taxi with from Pamplona to St. Jean-Pied-de-Port at the beginning of our Camino. We hadn’t seen him since, and we’d been wondering how he was doing.

    We were soon on our way again, and we enjoyed meeting Rebecca, a pilgrim from Eugene, Oregon. It’s always a pleasure to strike up a fun conversation over the course of a few kilometers along the Way.

    Our lodging today has a utilitarian, truck stop kind of feel to it, but it is clean and has a restaurant which means we don’t have to walk further to forage for food.

    Tomorrow we’ll walk 19 kilometers to O Pedrouzo. With the forecast calling for rain, we expect our ponchos will be earning their keep.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Francés
    Day 33

    Day 33: Melide

    October 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    The owner of last night’s lodging made a point of taking a photo of us as we left the Rectoral de Lestedo: it’s what he always does, he said, tickled by the morning’s dark skies.

    “This will show that you walk in the dark!” he exclaimed.

    Don Humberto, Miguel, and Julia were all so very welcoming and hospitable at the Rectoral, making it one of our nicest stops along the Way.

    We stopped for a breakfast of coffee and fried eggs in Palais da Rei, 5 kilometers away, and for a “second breakfast” of coffee and tarts at the Albergue Abrigadoiro, another 3 kilometers down the Camino. Don Humberto had recommended that we stop there, and we could see why. The baked goods were delicious and the owners above and beyond with their service.

    We stopped for the third time another 5 k down the Way, for fruit smoothies at the Happiness Cafe, a small food truck operated by a Seattle transplant.

    With only 6.6 kilometers to go to get to today’s lodging, I swapped my trail shoes for Teva sandals, trying to appease some new blisters that popped up yesterday.

    Allan, meanwhile, did great on his first post-recovery hike. Only three more hikes to get to Santiago!

    Tomorrow, we’ll walk 14 kilometers to Arzua, the shortest distance of the three.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Francés
    Day 32

    Day 32: Lestedo

    October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Sunrise arrives on the late side this time of year, so I left Mercadoiro in the dark this morning, thankful for the new headlamp I got in Burgos. Even at that early hour, I could hear other pilgrims chatting as they walked.

    The sky was starting to lighten up by the time I made it to A Parrocha, but it was still interesting to see modern lights illuminating the old stone structures in the hamlet.

    Nothing was open yet in Vilacha as I passed through, so it was on for another few kilometers to find some breakfast.

    The descent into Portomarin was surprisingly steep and narrow in some places—it was moving to see where the stone has been worn into “steps” by the hundreds of thousands of pilgrims who have preceded me along this stretch of the Way.

    A tall, lengthy bridge leads into Portomarin, testing my dislike of heights. I was grateful for the waist high barriers on the bridge when the wind generated by a speeding truck left me wobbling as I walked across.

    The Camino does a dogleg into and out of Portomarin, having pilgrims cross that same river again on a different, lower bridge.

    Leaving the town, I encountered the first of many climbs to come throughout the day.

    The Camino paralleled the road at times, and it was fun to wave at Allan’s taxi when he passed by around 11:30 a.m. Along other parts of the Way, I saw tractors working the fields as well as some lumber harvesting.

    After 26 kilometers, my feet were ready to call it quits when I reached today’s lodging: El Rectoral de Lestedo.

    Allan is feeling better, so tomorrow we’ll set out to walk 20 kilometers to Melide, knowing that a taxi can be procured along the Way if need be.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Francés
    Day 31

    Day 31: Mercadoiro

    October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    My first day walking in Galicia came with a good, soaking rain. I know it’s much needed, so I was grateful that it held off until I was halfway through today’s 17 kilometers.

    I left Sarria just before 9 a.m., feeling as though I were on a conveyor belt of pilgrims. The volume of walkers easily quadrupled. Many Spaniards start their Caminos in Sarria, and they often do so in small groups of 3 to 6 people.

    Once the rain started, many took shelter in the cafes along the Way, which opened up some soggy space on the path.

    Fallen chestnuts carpeted the floor in several spots, while fallen apples often lined the sides of the road. Low clouds and rain mist were constant companions.

    It was so nice to see Allan’s smiling face at a cafe table when I arrived in Mercadoiro. He had taxied from Sarria with our backpacks, as he is still recovering from being ill.

    Our lodging here is in a very old building, which presents a few challenges. I’ve learned to duck my head when coming down the stairs from the bathroom!

    Tomorrow, I aim to walk 26 kilometers to Lestedo.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Francés
    Day 30

    Day 30: Sarria

    October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    This morning we leapfrogged by taxi once more, driving an hour from Camponaraya to Sarria. We paralleled the Camino much of the way, deferring the steep hike up to O Cebreiro for our next Camino, whenever that may be.

    Teo, our driver, pointed out apple and pear orchards along the route, and told us slate is mined and exported to England and other northern European countries as a roofing material.

    We snapped photos as we drove past a large Benedectine structure, el Monasterio de San Julián de Samos, and arrived in Sarria a short while after.

    We’re staying in a small three room hostal here, right along El Camino.

    Tomorrow’s plan is for me to walk 17 kilometers to Mercadoiro, while Allan covers that distance by taxi with our backpacks. Many pilgrims start their Camino here in Sarria, so I expect the route will be far from deserted.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Francés
    Day 26

    Days 26, 27, 28 & 29 - Camponaraya

    October 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    This Camino keeps delivering certain lessons whether we want them or not. Today’s? Our bodies need more time to heal, so we’ll be spending another four nights here for rest and recovery.

    We’re very thankful we were able to extend our stay at the Hostal La Medina de Camponaraya through Sunday.

    Our room is comfortable, the staff very nice, and whatever we might need is available close by.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Francés
    1
    11
    Day 25

    Day 25 - Camponaraya

    October 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Before we left Ponferrada today, I spent an hour touring El Castillo de Los Templarios. After walking past so many castle ruins along El Camino, it was a treat to wander around this restored property.

    The Templars occupied the original structure in 1178, and expanded upon it until they were disbanded in 1312. They were tasked with protecting pilgrims on El Camino de Santiago from the Moors, securing an adjacent iron bridge with strategic importance between Galicia and León, as well as serving the Kings of Spain.

    Informational panels around the grounds explain how it has been fought over and changed ownership during subsequent centuries.

    Walking its ramparts, it’s easy to feel transported to times long past.

    After leaving Ponferrada, we ran into Bronwyn, a pilgrim from Australia who we first met at Orisson, and who we’ve since encountered several times along the Way. We chatted for a bit, and then she sped off, as she was hoping to go three times as far as our 10k today.

    We stopped for lunch in Fuentesnuevas, opting for Restaurante La Casona based on its 4 1/2 star Google rating. It was fantastic, and it seemed we were the only pilgrims there.

    We only had another 2 kilometers to walk after lunch, and we were happy to be settled into tonight’s hostal room shortly after 4 p.m.

    Tomorrow’s destination is Trabadelo, 24 kilometers away.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Francés
    Day 24

    Day 24 - Ponferrada

    October 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    We leapfrogged a 102 kilometer section of the Camino by taxi today, covering in a 90-minute drive what would have taken us four days to walk.

    We lucked out with our driver, Lautico Fernandez Fernandez. He offered excellent commentary along the way, pointing out where the Camino went when we couldn’t see it from the car, providing highlights of the towns we passed by, and sharing a bit about his family’s background as blacksmiths in the Gradefes area of León.

    When we finally reached Ponferrada, the GPS system wasn’t helpful getting the car to our hotel’s door. Lautico was reluctant to let us walk the final bit despite our assurances that it wasn’t a problem.

    After it became clear that a short walk was in order, he insisted on carrying both of our heavy backpacks up the steep hill—and then refused to accept a tip. “Just call on me the next time you’re in León,” he said.

    Our hotel is very close to the Castillo de los Templarios, so we were looking forward to checking it out after lunch…but it is closed on Mondays. Since we have a short hike to Camponaraya planned tomorrow, we may stop in when the castle opens at 10 a.m.    Read more

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