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  • Day 13

    Luxemburg Gardens and Home

    June 23, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Friday, June 23rd. SO SAD to leave....

    We had breakfast and took our bags downstairs. We took a taxi to the Luxemburg Gardens. We sat by the de Medici pool and walked just a bit.

    We took a taxi back to our hotel to get our bags and be ready for our ride to the airport. Our flight was delayed a bit so we even had time to have a farewell glass of wine at the cafe by the hotel before leaving.

    We took home many amazing memories and a few key phrases.
    Je Ne Sais Pas - "I don't know". We thought we knew the phrase "I don't care" but it turns out we were saying "I also don't know". C'est la Vie.

    Farewell Paris!! Until next time......
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  • Day 12

    D’Orsay and Shopping

    June 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Thursday, June 22nd. Anya and I had breakfast in the cute downstairs cave at the hotel. We walked 14 miles during the day!

    It was a rainy day. We went to the D’Orsay museum in the morning and enjoyed art and lunch at the cafe near the clock windows.

    We went back to Marsais again. We had to have the wonderful chocolate from Peru again - Jean-Paul Hevin. I bought necklaces for Paige and Eryca for Christmas. We got the Moroccan mint tea again. A lady was trying to get money from everyone while we were there.

    We shopped and got Anya a very cute vest and mini skirt. I got a blouse. We got an ornament from a shop that had fantasy items upstairs and Christmas items downstairs. It was a narrow stairway to go downstairs. We picked out an ornament and went upstairs ASAP!

    In another store, I saw an amazing Chanel necklace made from a Chanel button. I ended up calling and ordering it after we returned home and they shipped it to me.

    We got lost a bit walking back. We dropped off our shopping bags and went back to Rue Cler for more yummy pizza and ice cream.

    One of our guides on the trip was named Ham. He told us to be French you go to cafes for 3 days. You sit with your friends all on one side so you can all see the street. You slouch and smoke and judge hard. Day 1 - you watch the people go by and check out the fashion. Day 2 - you shop for the fashion that was your favorite the day before. Day 3 - You wear your new outfit to the cafe with your friends. Anya saw our waitress at the pizza cafe wear a cute vest with jeans. When we shopped, she found a similar vest in Marsis today and she wore it to dinner tonight! Voila - she is French!
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  • Day 11

    Back to Paris!

    June 21, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Wednesday, June 21st. We had an amazing breakfast served by the couple who runs the B&B. It was in their apartment on their terrace. They had a beautiful yard. She had homemade yogurt and jams. It was so quaint.

    Mikel had to drive us into Paris. He did a great job. He kept saying he didn't want to end up driving around the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. After he dropped us off and on his way to the airport, he did!

    He flew out of Paris around 4:30 pm. Our hotel was Hotel de Latour Maubourg and it was in a fantastic location. It was so cute!

    Anya and I went to the Rodin Museum and then had lunch. Of course, the Rodin Museum is one of my absolute favorites. The garden was under construction like the rest of Paris. The Kiss and the sculpture of the two hands are two of my favorites but I like all his work.

    We walked through Paris and found a cute shop near the Eiffel Tower and bought 2 dresses. Anya also got a dress and very French, classy white pants and a purple top. Tres Chic.

    We chilled out at the hotel and had reservations at Francette. It was on a boat on the Seine. We looked at the menu and didn't love it so we left. We walked past the Eiffel Tower and it was packed with tourists for a concert later that night. We went to Rue Cler and had an amazing pizza and an ice cream. It was perfect. We went back to the room to chill and relax and saw the concert by the Eiffel Tower on TV!
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  • Day 10

    Chenonceau and Chartres, France

    June 20, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Tuesday, June 20th. We woke up with the most amazing view of the chateau. Mikel asked what I was doing for the next 30 years and if would I spend it with him. He proposed and asked me to marry him! Of course, I said YES. I went to Anya's room to tell her and that is when she told me she already knew and he had told her at Mont St Michel!

    We toured Chambord early and enjoyed seeing the interior of the chateau. They hid a lot of Paris art here during WWII.

    We drove to Chenonceau and it is my favorite. It is on the river Cher and we enjoyed lunch on the grounds.

    The history of the Château de Chenonceau is defined by an almost uninterrupted succession of women who built, embellished, protected, restored, and saved it. The first château was a medieval château dating from the 12th and 13th centuries.

    In 1535, King Francis I incorporated it into the Crown Estate as part of a debt settlement. Later, King Henry II decided to offer it not to the Queen, but to his Favorite, Diane de Poitiers, “in full right of ownership, seisin and possession, completely, peacefully and perpetually, to dispose of as her own and true patrimony.” This artificial exit of Chenonceau from Crown Lands meant that it was saved, two centuries later, from the French Revolution.

    On 10 July 1559, Queen Catherine de Medici, widow of Henry II, quickly deposed Diane de Poitiers and installed the authority of the young king, her son, at Chenonceau, amidst Italian pomp and splendor. Amongst the festivities she held here, she managed the Kingdom of France from her study, the Green Cabinet. Her daughter-in-law, Louise de Lorraine, wife of King Henry III, became a widow in turn and moved into the château in her mourning.

    In the 18th century, after the château was purchased by her husband, it was Louise Dupin, lady of the Enlightenment, who welcomed to Chenonceau the greatest scholars, philosophers, and academicians in France to her famous literary salon. This exceptional woman was the first to draft a Code of Women’s Rights.

    Chenonceau was transformed into a military hospital during the Great War.

    During the Second World War, the Grand Gallery at Chenonceau became the sole point of access to the free zone, and the Menier family helped to smuggle out people fleeing the Nazi tyranny. The US president, Harry Truman, visited the château on his first trip to France.

    When we left Chenonceau, we stopped at a Cave and tasted wine. Mikel wasn't thrilled with that stop. We got a few bottles for the road and had a great time learning about the family's wine business.

    We drove to Chartres. We had a wonderful B&B apartment. We toured the church and had dinner right across from the cathedral. We went back to the B&B and took a nap. After the nap, we went back to the cathedral and watched the light show that they did ON the church. It was OUTSTANDING. It didn't start until 10:30 pm because it didn't get dark until then. We walked home from another amazing day.

    Chartres Cathedral is also known as the Cathedral of Our Lady of Chartres and was mostly constructed between 1194 and 1220. On August 16, 1944, the Chartres Cathedral was saved from destruction thanks to the American colonel Welborn Barton Griffith Jr., who questioned the order he was given to target the cathedral. The Americans believed that the steeples and towers were being used as an observation post for German artillery.

    Griffith, accompanied by a volunteer soldier, instead decided to go and verify whether or not the Germans were using the cathedral. Griffith could see that the cathedral was empty, so he had the cathedral bells ring as a signal for the Americans not to shoot. Upon hearing the bells, the American command rescinded the order to fire. Colonel Griffith died in combat action that same day near Chartres.
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  • Day 9

    Chambord Chateau, France

    June 19, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Monday, June 19th. We had breakfast at the hotel and toured the Abbey before too many people arrived. It was just magical and breathtaking. There was a very cute kitten staying at our hotel. We left by noon and headed out. It was hard to leave and was a highlight of the trip for us all. Little did I know that while we were all walking around Mont St Michele with our wine - Mikel told Anya he was going to ask me to marry him before the end of the trip.

    Founded at the request of the Archangel Michael by the bishop of Avranches, Aubertus, the first sanctuary was consecrated on October 16, 709. It would become the heart of a great Benedictine abbey, famous in the Middle Ages for its treasures and rich library.

    Converted into a prison during the French Revolution, the abbey has been beautifully restored since the late 19th century. The layout of the abbey cannot be compared with that of any other monastery. The buildings defy the laws of balance, wrapping around the tip of the rock.

    We stopped at the chateau that is featured on the show "Escape to the Chateau". It was fun seeing it in person as we drove to the Loire Valley. We went to Amboise and the castle to see the tomb of Leonardo DaVinci. It was closed for renovations. They are working so hard to get repairs completed before the Olympics. I was disappointed but we were able to go to his house - Chateau du Clos Luce. They had models of a lot of his inventions. It was really interesting. They also had them throughout the grounds of the chateau.

    We drove to Chambord. Our hotel was one that I had stayed at with Mom and Ann on a previous visit. They had added on to it and it was very changed. Relais de Chambord. It was very fancy. We had a view of Chambord from the windows in our rooms. Our timing was great here as well. When we arrived all the tourists had left for the day. We walked around the grounds and the bugs loved Mikel's eyes for some reason.

    Chambord Chateau is a unique architectural jewel built in 1519 at the request of François I, a lover of the arts and passionate hunter, the château of Chambord has become emblematic of the French Renaissance in Europe and throughout the world. The plan of the castle and its decors stem from a central axis, the renowned double helix staircase, inspired by Leonardo da Vinci. Only under the reign of Louis XIV is construction finally completed.

    Dinner was a bit disappointing. It wasn't that good but we had fun and loved the room and the view. Mom always said she had the best meal of her life there. It was an amazing steak with sauce. The food had been amazing so I was disappointed it didn't live up to that memory. We enjoyed drinking wine in the room and looking at the chateau all lit up at night.
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  • Day 8

    Mont St Michel, France

    June 18, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Sunday, June 18th - and Father's Day! We got up early and drove to Sainte Mere Eglise. We had a private jeep ride in a WWII Willy along deserted roads and hedgerows while hearing WWII stories.

    The town played a significant part in the World War II Normandy landings because of its position in the middle of route N13, which the Germans would have used to counterattack Allied landings on Utah and Omaha Beaches. In the early morning of 6 June 1944, mixed units of the U.S. 82nd Airborne and U.S. 101st Airborne Divisions occupied the town of Mission Boston, making it one of the first towns liberated in the invasion.

    The early airborne landings, at about 1:40 a.m., resulted in heavy casualties. Some buildings in town caught fire that night, illuminating the sky, and making easy targets of the descending men. Some were killed by the fire. Many hanging from trees and utility poles were shot.

    A well-known incident involved paratrooper John Steele of the 505th Parachute Infantry Regiment (PIR), whose parachute caught on the spire of the town church. He hung there for two hours, pretending to be dead until the Germans took him prisoner. Steele later escaped and rejoined his division when U.S. troops of the 3rd Battalion, 505th Parachute Infantry Regiment attacked the village, capturing 30 Germans and killing 11. The incident was portrayed in the movie The Longest Day by actor Red Buttons.

    We visited the south side of Utah Beach. We also toured the Airborne Museum and had lunch in St Mere Eglise. It rained during lunch. An English woman ran the pub and we had fish and chips. St Mere Eglise was how I remembered it when I traveled there with Mom twice before.

    We backtracked to the German cemetery and also laid flowers there. It is also moving in a more Gothic way. We walked through a deserted museum there and it was an odd feeling. Mikel looked for the Janitz name in the books of those buried there. We didn't find his name.

    We drove to Pont Du Hoc. It was raining while we talked there and went through the pillboxes and then we walked the cliffs. The terrain there is so tough and we could imagine the rangers trying to climb them in harsh conditions.

    We saw a flash while driving and then started noticing traffic signs. There were places along the roads that automatically monitored speed and captured photos for tickets. We started worrying that we had been driving for days without knowing this and we could owe a lot of money in fees and tickets. Luckily when we got home, we only had 1 ticket for the trip.

    We continued driving to Mont St Michel. Parking was different than when I was there before and the town had grown a lot. We took a shuttle across most of the bridge and then had to haul our luggage up lots of little stairs. We stayed at Mere Poullard on Mont St Michel. It was magical. We got there as everyone was leaving for the day. Anya got a tapestry pillow of The Lady and the Unicorn. Mikel got us two patches and he got also bought 2 Normandy patches while we were at the Airborne Museum.

    We had an amazing dinner at the hotel. The cliff was part of the dining room. Anya found out she loved Norman coffee!

    We took a bottle of wine with us and wandered around Mont St Michel. We laughed and talked and had an amazing time. It was surreal. Anya had her own small room in front of our room. She said it was a dream she never knew she had - to stay in a castle!
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  • Day 7

    Normandy France

    June 17, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Saturday, June 17th. We drove to Etretat. We didn't know where to park as we had never been there before. We finally just watched everyone else and parked. The parking machines were not working to take credit cards. We started on the wrong path by the golf course. We cut behind some houses and ended up having a spectacular view of the beach. The town looked so cute! We want to go back sometime and explore it. As we were walking back to the car, Anya found a piece of pottery in the mud. It was a rainy day. We put it in the bungalow fountain when we returned home.

    Étretat is best known for its chalk cliffs, including three natural arches and a pointed formation called L'Aiguille or the Needle, which rises 230 ft above the sea. These cliffs and the associated resort beach attracted artists including Eugène Boudin, Charles Daubigny, Gustave Courbet, and Claude Monet. Claude Monet did several paintings in the area, particularly of the natural cliff arches and stacks.

    We drove through Honfleur, and they were having a huge market day in town. Drove by Sword Beach and went to the American Cemetery. Of course, it was so moving. We stopped at a grocery to get flowers so we could lay them on graves while we were there. We also picked some flowers to place on graves. It was beautiful and haunting to visit. We took photos of Omaha Beach and we were all moved by the visit especially when they were playing Taps as we were leaving.

    We also went to the Pegasus Bridge and Museum today and enjoyed all the exhibits and the bridge behind the museum.

    Mikel and I took turns driving and we went back to Le Havre. It was storming and we went to one cafe and had to move to a better one. It was a nice dinner while it rained. The fire alarm was going off at the hotel as we went to dinner. We walked along the beachfront on the way home.
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  • Day 6

    Giverny and Monet

    June 16, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Friday, June 16th. We slept in and then walked to breakfast at La Guinguetto. It was the best yogurt ever - it had berries and honey in it. I had a chocolate chaud (hot chocolate) and Anya had an espresso. We waited for Mikel to arrive and wrote in our journal - reliving the first part of our trip. We enjoyed watching the world go by.

    Mikel showed up and found us. He was tired from his flight, picking up the rental car, and driving to Versailles. He was a good sport as he helped us load our luggage and rallied for a day of fun!

    We drove to Versailles and went to the Petit Trianon and Marie Antoinette's private rural hamlet. The hamlet has always been one of my favorites.

    We drove to Giverny and had lunch there. The gardens were amazing and the house was spectacular too! We took photos in the garden and the famous bridge. I loved his house. The kitchen and dining room had such amazing colors! His bedroom looked out over the garden. The ponds were full of lily pads and you felt you were walking in one of his paintings. There were cute stores, restaurants, and bars at Giverny.

    I'm so glad we stopped. I had never been able to fit it in on a previous trip to France.

    After we left Giverny, we continued driving to Le Harve. Mikel had reserved a hotel there - the Hilton Garden Inn - for 2 nights. The hotel was right on the water. We walked to dinner at an outdoor cafe. They were having some sort of outdoor celebration and we enjoyed the crowds and activity.

    Le Harve means "The Harbour". The city and port were founded by King Francis I in 1517. it is located on the shore of the English Channel and at the mouth of the Seine.

    We listened to ABBA on the balcony of the hotel when we got back to the hotel. There were only 2 twin beds in the room and Mikel snored all night. To be fair, he was completely exhausted but Anya got no sleep. When Mikel woke up the next morning, he stretched and said - "I slept AMAZING!" Anya said, "I know you did......"
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  • Day 5

    Versailles France - Glitz and Glamor Day

    June 15, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Thursday, June 15th. We had an amazing breakfast at the Intercontinental. Their buffet was fantastic. We saw Chuck and Ralph at breakfast. We kept seeing this couple all over the hotel and named them Chuck and Ralph. We didn't have tickets but we walked across the street to the Paris Opera and we were able to do a tour. It was so beautiful - and we saw Chuck and Ralph again. We got a lot of beautiful photos. This was our Glitz and Glamor Day. Yesterday was Food and Fashion.

    We took our luggage and caught a cab near the meeting place for the Versailles Tour. We had a drink in a cafe while waiting - of course it was a St Germaine Spritz. We caught the bus for the tour and they stowed our luggage for us.

    We toured the garden and the Chateau and it was wonderful. Amazing rooms and we had about an hour in the gardens. The tour guide did a great job. It was another very warm day and we walked another 6 1/2 miles.

    After the tour, we gathered our luggage and walked to the Hotel de Versailles. My bag was locked and it wouldn't come open. We went downstairs to the desk and the lady gave us a screwdriver and I popped it open! We had to change rooms because our first one wouldn't cool down. It was a very lovely hotel.

    We ate at a restaurant on the little peninsula between the street and Versailles. It was after everyone had left the chateau for the day. It was between the Chateau and the stables. I finished my book Nightingale after dinner.
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  • Day 4

    Le Marais & Dior - Food & Fashion Day!

    June 14, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Wednesday, June 14th. We only ate a small amount of breakfast even though the Intercontinental offers an amazing brunch buffet. We were scheduled for a food tour of Marais today and wanted to fully enjoy it. We walked all through the Marais area - The Marsh - a historic district in Paris. It has a very artsy culture and is home to a large gay community. It is also the center of the Jewish community and is one of the oldest areas of Paris.

    The food tour was better than we could have imagined. We had a croissant to start. We learned the history of food, architecture, and Paris. Anya bought a necklace outside the March Des Enfants Rouges. It was an orphanage where the children wore red capes like Superman. It became a city supermarket and is protected so it won't become commercial. We had macaroons and Grand Cru Chocolate with chocolate from Peru. Jean-Paul Hevin is the name of the Chocolatier. It was the best we had ever tasted. We had mint tea and North African msammen with bell pepper and spices. Msammen is a delicious square-shaped Moroccan bread that is traditionally enjoyed for breakfast with a cup of green mint tea. It is buttery, flakey and so light!

    We saw a plaque regarding the processing places for Jews to go to Auschwitz and next to it was a yellow cheese shop. Polish Jews who survived Auschwitz opened it after WWII and painted it bright yellow like the Star of David. Sacha Finkelztajn La Boutique Jaune is the name of the bakery and we had beef piroshki - a puff pastry there.

    Rue Des Rosiers was our favorite street. We had escargot on mushrooms and then finished off with cheese and wine.

    The tour guide showed us a very ordinary plant but when you rubbed it and smelled your fingers it smelled like lemon. We bought one of these plants for the Bungalow when we got home.

    He also showed us an early Paris bank and told us about people being paid in salt which is the origin of the word salary.

    We were so hot and tired and sweaty as we walked a VERY long way from the Marais area to the Dior Museum to make our tour time. It was magical and beautiful. Every new door we went through took our breath away. We walked to Champs des Elysée and then took a cab home. It was so crowded and has changed so much over the years. It was not as built up and had small quaint stores when I first went to Paris!

    We went to the grocery store near our hotel and had a St Germaine Spritz in the outdoor cafe of our hotel. We enjoyed another bed picnic. We walked 12 miles today!
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