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  • Giorno 45

    Downtown LA

    15 ottobre 2023, Stati Uniti ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Since border control was extremely interested in a complete breakdown of my itinerary here in LA we thought it was best to follow the plan we told them.

    So waking up early we went to downtown LA to walk around and explore. Starting with Grand Central Market for breakfast.

    Across the road is what is considered "Shortest Railway in the World", a funicular that goes up a step hill for maybe 50 to 100 metres for a couple of dollars. We have the guy some coins we got from Ecuador (They use USD as their currency too) and he immediately looked at them and said "I've never seen these coins before, they are US coins but we haven't used anything like this in a long time". I didn't even consider that it would be different, thankfully he accepted them anyway.

    We did a walk around Grand Park for a bit, it was extremely quiet at this time of day. Lots of little squirrels running around, which was funny to see.

    Walking past the Walt Disney Concert Hall and we went to both The Broad which houses the Museum of Contemporary Art and then the Museum of Modern Art down the road a little way.

    To finish off our downtown explore, we went to a place called The Last Bookstore which seems very safe with how many people were there. Dressed up in Halloween theme it is almost a maze of books and bookshelves.
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  • Giorno 44

    Goodbye South America

    14 ottobre 2023, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Emotionally this is going to be the hardest post to write, and will probably take several hours while I stop to wipe the tears from my eyes intermittently.

    At times we have struggled on this holiday. Sore feet, sore heads, trouble walking, trouble breathing, burns, exhaustion, coughs and colds. Difficulties balancing multiple currencies and languages across so many countries.

    We came on this holiday to push ourselves, seize the opportunity and make sure we didn't waste a minute. Seeing this continent from every position possible. Road, rail, rivers, seas, sky... Climbing maintains, trekking through rainforests, struggling through snow, crossing desserts, boating along rivers, exploring modern cities to ancient civilizations, from sea level to 5000m. We loved, we learned, we explored, we cried, we lived.

    Along the way we meet some incredible people. Our exceptional guides who were not there just to do a job, they were passionate about their country and their region and wanted to make sure that we had the best experience possible and made to feel welcomed and loved. Most of which won't know the impact they have had on us. Our drivers who always kept us on time and safe, even in some of the trickiest of conditions. Our friends Juan, Estaban, Sarah, Aymar who we felt like we've known forever even if we only met them in person for the first time.

    We invested everything we had, and also a lot of what we don't, into this holiday to make it more then just time off it's a once in a life time journey. A journey that has changed me, making me appreciate what I have and what is needed to be happy. People we've seen and meet along the way haven't all had much, but what they have is friends, family, culture and love. This has given them all the happiness they've needed everyday.

    We're already on our way to the United States. So our holiday isn't quite over yet. But this place has been special and I've shared those memories with a very special person the entire time.
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  • Giorno 43

    Papallacta Thermal Hot Springs

    13 ottobre 2023, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    A hot springs resort is not the normal kind of place you would find Alex and I for a night. But our travel agent almost insisted on it.. Now after being in the Amazon for the last 3 days, it was pretty obvious why he is so good at his job. Since we were here, we were going to make the most of it with some needed R&R.

    First thing was to have a dip in the 38 degree water fed from natural hot spring water from the underground volcanic activity near by.

    The mix between the cool mountain air and the warm water was perfect. And we had an early check in too so we had the whole area to ourselves to relax in. Then we had a smart idea to go back and forth between the hot pools and what seemed to be freezing cold water pool. Enough to make your limbs tingle.

    Later that night we had reserved some massages. Now I've never had a professional massage, the act of someone touching me like that is way out of my comfort zone. But that's what this holiday is all about. Yes, I'm suggesting that pushing my limits is getting a massage. Haha.

    The first was a deep tissue massage. Before even entering the room I was already uncomfortable as they gave us what was paper see-through panties to wear and nothing more. But we went into the room and they were very discreet. Asking us to lay on the table and cover ourselves with a sheet while they are out of the room. But then the massage began, and deep tissue was an understatement. For little ladies they used those fists and elbows hard on us. If my face was being recorded it would not have portrayed "relaxed", it hurt alot. Alex on the other hand loved it, I don't think they could have gone hard enough for him.

    The second massage was where things got weird. So Ecuador is very famous for their chocolate as we learned. The origin of cocoa and the best in the world. So why not get covered in it with a chocolate body scrub and wrap. This time the entry was far less discreet, being us into the room and telling us to take off the robes and lay on the table. The scrub started off with a rubbing down of what I assume is chocolate with chunks in it. Exfoliating with chocolate it seems, all over. Now that we were friendly, the next step was to have a shower Infront of her to wash it off. I thought that was the end, but it was only the beginning. Laying back on the table, it came the melted warm chocolate. Layering it over us completely by hand from toes to face. Once covered, she then began to wrap us in plastic wrap and then a leather cover over that. Making us feel like some sort of dessert. That's when she left the room and we waited like that, for what seemed forever. Alex said it was 15 minutes, but honestly felt like an hour. Marinating in Ecuadorian chocolate the whole time. But the story doesn't end there, the chocolate has to come off... So she takes us out of the room and down the hall. This is where new prisoners come when they are being checked into jail. Standing there with arms and legs apart facing the wall, she uses a fire hose to wash you down. I honestly can't tell you if this is part of the therapy, or something they do just for their own amusement disguised as a "thermal jet therapy". Occasionally telling us to change to the next position, but with water and chocolate in your face, that want the easiest thing to do.
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  • Giorno 43

    In the dark ... Goodbye Napo

    13 ottobre 2023, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Sunrise over the Napo River means only one thing, that we've already been travelling a bit over an hour to get here. That is, leaving in the dark and paddle boating down the little stream in the dark. And I really mean dark, I thought they would use headlamps or torches to navigate, but there was none of that. Just the pitch blackness of the night in the forest, winding around tight corners and hearing the scraping of the extremely low water level causing the branches and logs to rub against the bottom of the canoe.

    The only help in the dark that would assist with the navigation was a lining of glow worms along both edges of the stream. Like little stars in the water showing us the way. Unfortunately it was impossible to get a picture at that time of day.

    Like the day we arrived we walked a short distance to get to the motorboat that would take us 80km upstream back to Coca to catch the plane back to Quito. This time it was a bright sunny day which meant we got to enjoy the view with the blinds up. Catching the sight of the river and the people living and working along the river banks this time.
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  • Giorno 42

    Above and below the trees

    12 ottobre 2023, Ecuador ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    The last official activity here at Napo was a walk to a 30 metre high observation tower about 30 minutes into the forest.

    At this height it is easily above the canopy and other trees. Sitting on top of a large tree like like platform. We were meant to see toucans, but we ended up seeing everything but. Three different types of monkeys, some macaws flying past, beautiful types of birds with spectacular colours like azure blue and greens, and even some woodpeckers (which was a first for us.)

    We stayed up there for a good hour and a half until the sun set.

    With the sun down though, that means it was dark, and we were still 45 minutes from the centre... So that meant trekking in darkness and that's when we found out what creatures come out at night. So far just moths, but something needs to eat them. The first couple of holes were giant tarantulas, poking a stick at their home made them show all their glory and come out. Nearby was what is called a whipping spider or tailless whipping scorpion with a whole bunch of babies on his or her back.
    Then it was frogs, different types of millipedes, crickets, caterpillars... And that was just the creatures we saw, what about all the ones we didnt...
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  • Giorno 42

    Forest Walk

    12 ottobre 2023, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today's adventures were a little more relaxed, so starting a little later to head out for a forest walk. But we didn't miss our friends the giant otters still crunching away on fish as they hung around some tree roots. There seemed to be more today, and they were definitely being louder today.

    A short paddle a little further we entered the forest again, no knowledge of what we will see. I mentioned previously that the wildlife centre is run by the community, as part of that each group has two guides. A naturalist guide who is an expert in the flora and fauna of the region, and a community guide who lives and works in this area. Party of this walk we stopped several times to learn about the trees, seeds, leafs and way they are used in the community. For example the walking palm, that actually repositions itself periodically to get closer to the sun, but this tree has a spiky legs that are used like a grater for potatoes, cassava and other things. We also had a demonstration on how the palm leafs are manipulated and folded to make the roofs of the huts of the centre and traditional homes.

    We saw lizards, and more of the wooly monkeys and other types of creepy crawlies before heading back.
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  • Giorno 41

    Second Clay Lick

    11 ottobre 2023, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Let's try our luck again. This time however it was deep in the forest instead of by the water. So we trekked from the National Park entrance about 30 to 45 minutes before reaching the established area. This looked very different to the other one and was more a clearing in the forest. Unfortunately nothing was there when we arrived, so we started to wait. After a short time we could hear some macaws above us in the trees. We couldn't see them from inside the shelter, but they were there and we were hopeful they would come down.

    But what happened is the monkeys decided to come on by instead and literally they all flew off at once.

    So we went out and got to enjoy watching the monkeys nearby hanging out upside down in the trees. Looked to be a family unit with a little baby on the back of the mother. Wooly monkeys, long orange brown fur and a strong big tail.

    After they left though, we went back to wait for the Macaws and Parrots once more. Most of us falling asleep in the bird hide, a pre-lunch siesta. But that's what we did, we waited hopefully for them to return. Eventually one of more did, but back staying high in the trees out of sight. We could see their shadows as they flew back and forth in the trees above us. It was about 2 hours of this and we figured it was time to leave as it had been too long now. But just as we thought that, one of them came down to the ground to start to drink. Once that first brave, and thirsty, macaw came down the rest began to follow. All up there were about 11 at different moments that came back and forth to have a drink. Smaller parrots also came down, safety in numbers it seems.

    Then as quickly as they came, they left again. And that was time for us to get out of the heat ourselves.
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  • Giorno 41

    Kichwa-Anangu Community

    11 ottobre 2023, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    The community who manages and owns the wildlife centre is the Kichwa-Anangu Community. They are employed to manage the centre and the profits go back to supporting the community and you can see that as there are some new school buildings and a sport centre here which they couldn't have built without that money.

    We went over to the traditional huts, built in there original palm leaf roof and wood style and still used by the ladies today for their daily activities. Greeted by a dance as we entered, we learned about the hut design and the way of life for the community. From cooking, to pottery, to clothing and hunting. We were given some food to try of plantain, palm heart , cassava and even a piece of cat fish.

    At the end we all got up to have a dance, another chance for Alex and I to embarrass ourselves... One day we'll learn to dance.
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  • Giorno 41

    Clay Lick

    11 ottobre 2023, Ecuador

    Even in the jungle there are no sleep-ins, actually here it is important to wake up early because that's when the animals are most active.

    So we started paddling back down the little lake for another 2 hours. This is the only way in and out of the centre, everything we see, touch or eat has been transported in using these paddle canoes.

    We had some caiman greet us 'good morning', which is always a nice feeling when you are 2 inches off the top of the water. But then not too far down the river was a family of Giant Otter that had come out to eat and play. Chewing away on fish there were about 4 of them completely ignoring us as they enjoyed themselves.

    Along the way we continued to enjoy the range of birds that were by the banks of the river, flying away as we got near enough for a photo.

    The clay lick was out on the main river, a short distance from the north of the little lake. We change boats over to a motorised boat for that part.

    Due to the weather being a little foggy and overcast, today didn't seem to be a day the parrots and macaws wanted to come down to the clay lick. We stayed for a short time with our fingers crossed. But there wasn't any around today.
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  • Giorno 40

    Journey to Napo

    10 ottobre 2023, Ecuador ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    Our journey to the Amazon started at heading to the airport at 6am. There we flew to a town/city called Coca where we met with the team from Napo Wildlife Centre. The first stop, which is their headquarters, we signed our wavers and got everything arranged. This is where the rain also started, and not just a little bit, it bucketed down. They have been waiting for this rain for weeks, and it finally arrived ... Yay.

    It's where Alex and I feared that our luck with weather had run out. Of all the places we have been, this was not where we wanted it to rain. Muddy, wouldn't be able to take photos properly, animals would be hiding.

    After waiting a while for the rain to slow, we got into a long motorised canoe and began the next part of our journey. Heading upstream along the river. With the sides down and unable to see much, I think most of the trip we were asleep, it was about 2 hours to get to our next stop.

    Next we left the motorised boat for a short walk to get to the entrance of the National Park, there we got on a paddle canoe. But this stage the rain had eased significantly and it was a beautiful temperature. The water level at this time of year is very low, so there was a lot of scratching and scraping along the bottom of the boat from the exposed branches and logs.

    A magical journey. Here we were being paddled down a river in the Amazon. Along the way we saw a lot of different types of birds, I'm not a bird person so I can't remember what they are all called. We even saw some squirrel monkeys in the trees. Then after another 2 and a half hours of paddling, we got to the mouth of the lake. There we gasped at the impressiveness of the wildlife centre, but our attention was quickly moved over to a large caiman that was infront of our boat to greet us.

    After arriving we went up to get a briefing on the cabins and hotel facilities. But half way through we were interrupted by some big howler monkeys just outside the window. We were definitely in the wild now, and our fears about the weather were unjustified it only made it better. Welcome to the next 3 days.
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