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    • Dag 4

      Tropical Storm

      15. juni, Costa Rica ⋅ 🌧 77 °F

      Tropical storm day two put a twist in our plans. Went to bed with rain and woke up with rain, so took a switch up to do a reptile and amphibian tour in the mountains for our best shot at wildlife today.

      Started off with light rain on a hike, a hike in which the owner of the farm / snake wrangler was cutting off side paths with his machete in search for reptiles. He was able to find a poison dart frog, a tiny fellow with bright colors. As Gunter was taking a peek I saw a stunning blue butterfly - Morpho butterfly. We passed by some hallucinogenic mushrooms and nuts, a plant that has healing properties, a tree whose sap is highly flammable, and a 600 year old tree. Unfortunately no other critters because the rest of the time it was absolutely down pouring. So much so that our path down had turned into a slippery muddy river for the way back up. Was more of a wading expedition than a hike, a little bit sketchy but fun.

      Back at the farm, the owner had found some critters for us the day before for a mini photo shoot. It included another red eyed tree frog, mask tree frog, another tree frog who’s name escapes me, a tarantula they found in the house, a cat eyed snake (which we had also found on a previous night walk, non venomous), and a green eyelash viper (venomous). The green viper was more of a brown in color but it was a male, the females are known to be more colorful. On the toad trip back we stopped at a beach to see yet another sloth and even saw bobbing heads of some sea turtles.

      Gunter and I did our own night walk tonight without a local guide. Thankfully Gunter brought a headlight because the hotel flashlight was out of battery and when we went back for round two they replaced with another chargeless flashlight. It was a little eerie being out there at night even if it was only 6:30pm, we kept a watchful eye out for crocodiles and snakes. We found pretty quickly either a yellow or olive snouted tree frog, he posed for a quick picture then hopped away. We then found in our path a big fellow that looked like the toads I so loved to collect back in Ohio except way way larger. Turns out it was a Cane Toad, the world’s largest toad. The females can get up to three and a half pounds. We then saw the nonvenmous snake we saw the day before, in the same location so that must be home for him, and another similar looking snake. The cat eyed snake can look similar to its venomous relative, so we didn’t want to risk it on the second snake find. Found out that the frog eggs at a certain maturity start to wiggle in their eggs, so we watched the jiggling half baked tadpoles. Last bit of excitement was seeing a cicada posing next to its exoskeleton skin.

      The tropical storm put a damper on our mammal sightings (although we did catch a sloth at the end) but still a successful day over here on the Osa Penninsula, finishing the day off with a dip in the jacuzzi.
      Les mer

    • Dag 22

      Matapalo

      24. januar, Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      Heute Ausflug ganz an die Südspitze der Halbinsel (ist nur gut 30km von hier, wir brauchten aber 2h infolge der teilweise sehr schlechten Strasse).
      Ausblick und Meer waren traumhaft aber der Wasserfall welcher noch auf dem Programm stand haben wir nicht erreicht (nur Sandalen dabei und die letzten 200m ging es durch ein Bachtobel aufwärts...). Na ja, wir haben ja Wasserfälle gesehen...😄Les mer

    • Dag 3

      Monkey Day

      14. juni, Costa Rica ⋅ 🌧 81 °F

      Another early riser this morning. Up and at em and on the road by 6AM, an extraordinarily bumpy off road all day. Turns out we are in the middle of a tropical storm, so it’s even rainier than the normal rainy season. But alas we still got some solid animal sightings in between the rain. Before we took off in the van, we did a quick property walk. Not too much action besides some beautiful butterflies, a lizard here and there, and boat billed heron (funky bill that’s for sure).

      On the road we started off by seeing macaws abnormally low eating almonds off a sea almond tree. The shells of the almonds are apparently stronger than coconut shells, but not a problem since apparently macaws can bite down with 750lbs of force.

      Capuchins are the rarest monkeys to find here on Osa Pennisula, but it was the first troop (that’s the technical name for a group of monkeys) that we found. These monkeys are the smartest of the four types you find here. They are also quite malicious and kill baby mammals.

      Next up was a baby black hawk eating a crab its mama caught for it. It squawked at us a lot and made sure we didn’t snag any of its breakfast.

      I spied the next critter out of the adventure van and it ended up being a shy coati. It was eating some mangos from the mango tree it had climbed. This was our second time seeing a coati but the first time was only briefly, as a refresher they are cousins of the raccoon.

      Gunter had the next spot, a sloth with what appeared to be an old but very deep wound on its back. Hopefully the sir is doing better these days. I won’t post a picture here to spare the guy his privacy.

      And again with a monkey spotting, this time a sole howler monkey. Fact time, the howler monkey is the loudest land animal. Its hoots and hollas can be heard from three miles (five km for you European folk) away. The howler monkey can produce sounds that reach 140 decibels, as noisy as a jet engine taking off.

      More birds after that. A red bellied bird called the red breasted meadowlark, contrasting nicely with the extra green grass from the pouring rain. And a lineated woodpecker doing what he does best, pecking wood.

      An impressive silk orb weaver spider (aka banana spider), we boinged his web like a guitar string - it’s the strongest webbing of any spider. It’s considered a natural marvel, stronger than steel and up to 100x stronger than any synthetic material used for medical surgeries.

      At the spot for lunch we spotted some absolutely beautiful grasshoppers (who knew grasshoppers could be beautiful). And chowed down on the best food of the trip by a mile made by a local family very casually amongst a host of road dogs that for sure had fleas (but I couldn’t resist the temptation to pet). The food was seasoned to perfection and what might sound simple was somehow complex with flavors. We had a guava like fruit drink fresh from their backyard tree, friend plantains, mango ceviche, cassava salad, beans, rice, and a pork stir fry. I wish I could go back for another round right about now. Also in their backyard were some turkey like bird called the Great Curassow. The guide was quite excited, and after our now research we found they are pretty close to extinction.

      The rain let up in the afternoon to our surprise. We came across a truck that had been stuck in a ditch on a hill, who was now attempting to be towed out which was quite the scene. Simultaneously we found a large troop of spider monkeys, these guys have the strongest and most flexible prehensile tail of any mammal in the world. There were two monkeys that were cuddling which was pretty cute, but then a few more came over and four were cuddling which was even cuter. While this peaceful scene was unfolding the truck was successfully removed from the ditch, turned around and got stuck on the ditch on the other side haha. Again, as Gunter and I are excitedly snapping away photos of the monkeys, the truck manages to get down, tries to go back up the hill and falls back down the hill. And icing on the cake an impatient car that tries to pass by, also gets stuck in the ditch. So spider monkeys were accompanied by chaotic background activity.

      Our spider monkey activity was not yet over. After this, we passed another grove with highly active monkeys. These guys were very playful and the star of the show was the baby. He/she was very curious about me and came down to curiously look me and my camera up and down. When I focused my energy on the other monkeys I found one in particular that wasn’t so happy about being there. It would come down and look me face to face quite closely and shake a branch aggressively at me. A few times I had to back up abruptly since I wasn’t too sure of its agenda. Now that we looked it up, it was apparently demonstrating its “fearlessness”. At the end of our viewing party they decided to descend from the tree one by one and run (okay their so called run was very embarrassing for them I must say), through the field up the soccer goal post and to the next grove of trees. This also is not very common they rarely decide to touch the ground.

      Another successful day out in the jungle, and hopefully this time around you learned some more animal facts.
      Les mer

    • Dag 21

      I survived the monkeys of Corcovado!

      11. februar 2023, Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      Das Abenteuer beginnt frühmorgens. Auf dem Weg in den Nationalpark mit dem Pickup kreuz und quer durch den Fluss Rincon frage ich meinen "personal Guide" Juan-Luis, ob manchmal jemand im Corcovado verloren geht. Prompt bekomme ich die Geschichte eines Costaricaners aufgetischt, der sich allein auf den Weg machte und von seiner Mutter vermisst gemeldet wurde. „Was he found?“, will ich wissen. "Yes, they found him“, Juan Luis macht eine bedeutungsvolle Pause, "several months later. They found his bones."
      Das kann ja lustig werden, denke ich mit leisem Grausen, während wir uns an der Rangerstation Los Patos, dem Ost-Eingang zum Park, mit unseren Namen in einem Buch verewigen. Ich überfliege die übrigen Eintragungen dieses Samstags. Die Parkbesucher, alle jünger als ich, lassen sich an zwei Händen abzählen. Manche durchqueren den Corcovado von Ost nach West und müssen um 5 Uhr morgens aufbrechen, um die 25 Kilometer bis zur Rangerstation Sirena am Pazifik an einem Tag zu schaffen, denn auf dem Weg gibt es kein Camp, keine Unterkunft. So weit will ich nicht. Wer Glück hat, sieht auf der Wanderung Affen, Agutis, Ameisenbären; wird das Glück unverschämt, beschert es einem manchmal einen Tapir oder, sehr selten, einen Panter oder gar Jaguar.
      Tapir wäre schon schön, denke ich, aber Juan-Luis dämpft meine Erwartungen und stellt mir ein Faultier in Aussicht. Er ist jung und mit einem freundlichen Ernst bei der Sache, die da heißt, mir das Prinzip des Regenwalds zu erklären. Er existiert, wie jede Art Wald unter einer bestimmten Art Einschränkung, „Limitation“, und, anders als in gemäßigten Zonen, geht es hier in den Tropen nicht um Wasser oder Winter, sondern um „Space“, um Raum. In mehreren Stockwerken bilden die vielen unterschiedlichen Pflanzen, große Bäume, kleine Bäume, Palmen, Farne, Schlingpflanzen ein komplexes, genau ausdifferenziertes Miteinander. Wir wandern durch eine grüne Wildnis, vorbei an Bäumen, die in den Himmel wachsen, deren Alter niemand schätzen kann, auch nicht anhand ihrer mannshohen Brettwurzeln. Eine von weit oben herunterbaumelnde Liane heißt Affenleiter und sieht auch so aus. Ob sie auch für Menschen nutzbar ist? Auf dem von Wurzelsehnen durchzogenen schmalen Waldweg liegen abgefallene Blätter, groß wie alte Autoreifen. Auf Augenhöhe küsst mich der Corcovado mit „Red lips" zweiblättrigen Blütenblättern, die nicht nur so heißen, sondern auch samtig weich und rot sind wie Lippen.
      Zu einem Wasserfall geht es, gesichert durch ein Handseil, steil bergab. Dass wir nach einem erfrischenden Bad von hier aus schon wieder den Rückweg antreten sollen, schmeckt mir nicht recht. Nicht nur wegen des Tapirs, der auf sich warten lässt. Man braucht wohl mehr Zeit und auch Geduld, als für diese Tour vorgesehen ist, denn wie gesagt, ihn zu sehen ist ein unverschämtes Glück und unverschämte Glücke sind selten. Trotzdem reicht mir diese Alte-Leute-Wanderung nicht. Gefragt von Juan Luis, ob wir eine größere Runde drehen sollen, nicke ich heftig. Tiefer hinein geht es in den Corcovado, jetzt auf dem Weg nach Sirena. Immerhin 9 Kilometer haben wir am Ende hinter uns gelassen. Haben jede Menge kleiner Tiere, Eidechsen, Anolis, Vögel gesehen. Ein Faultier hängt sich an diesem Tag für mich nicht einen Baum. Kurz vor Schluss jedoch, als habe sich das Schicksal wie in einem perfekt inszenierten Theaterstück die Pointe möglichst lange aufgespart, gibt es plötzlich Tumult über uns in den Bäumen. Vier Spidermonkeys regen sich über unser Erscheinen auf, diagnostizieren uns als Feinde und holen umgehend zu einem Gegenschlag aus, der sich gewaschen hat. Wie Krieger bauen sie sich mit ihren unendlich langen Gliedmaßen im Astgewirr auf, um nichts weniger als eine Schlacht zu schlagen. Sie nehmen Anlauf, springen mit Wucht auf Palmwedel, rütteln und schütteln sie mit ihren Händen, schimpfen, keifen, giften, knurren. Ein Regen kleiner und größerer Blätter, Schoten, Samenkapseln geht auf uns nieder. Wow, haben die Temperament! Und Ärger! Einen Moment kommt es mir so vor, als würde sich im Krawall dieser vier Affen die Wut der gesamten Kreatur auf uns Menschen entladen, die in ihren Kosmos eindringen und ihnen die Lebensgrundlage wegnehmen. Dann ist der Spuk auch schon vorbei, die Spidermännchen suchen die oberen Etagen ihres Waldes auf, und wir kehren zur Ranger Station zurück. I survived the monkeys of Corcovado!
      Les mer

    • Dag 59

      Wet t-shirt no contest in Costa Rica

      15. januar 2023, Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      To face the heat in the motorbike gear, the inhibition threshold to keep the functional shirts wet by drowning them in every available restaurant sink has lowered dramatically.
      Costa Rica not only has beautiful beaches and wild nature reserves, it also offers both in a package in several places!
      Unfortunately, the Natural Reserves Association has recently made it organizationally impossible for visitors to buy tickets directly at the regular prices without spending a fortune on a guide/trader in addition or invest a day of bureaucracy.
      Thefrogandthebike undertake two attempts before capitulation, one in Manuel Antonio and another one in Corcovado national park.
      It was still a spectacular time with several encounters with native wildlife on the roads around the parks.
      Also the landscape, especially around Corcovado, provides a number of scenic winding drives through thick jungle, over mountains and through small rivers with all gradiations of good and bad roads.
      This circumstance combined with a guarded beach to camp on and a morning walk on a trail in the park provide already enough of an adventure.
      Where else can you camp on a beach next to a landing stripe rigth in front of a national park with your personal watch puppy?
      Les mer

    • Dag 95

      Corcovado wilderness and… RESCUE

      4. april, Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      Yesterday we sent off early to trek into the heart of the Corcovado National Park. This legendary part of Costa Rica has 2.5% of the world’s biodiversity (trees, plants, animal, bird and insect species). That is very high.

      We had planned a 20km jungle and beach trek with the hope of seeing new wildlife including 5 species of cats (jaguar and puma included), ant eaters, armadillo, tapir and many new birds. We had one night booked at the remote research station which only has 20 beds. This had to be booked over a month in advance.

      Our guide was great and in the morning we saw lots of wildlife (see photos) as we entered the national park. We stopped for lunch and a swim by a small waterfall which cooled us down in the heat of the day. Our progress was determined by the tide as we needed to pass a headland and then continue for an hour and a half on the beach.

      Alas clambering over a rocky scramble I (Michael) felt a sudden pain in my calf a knew immediately I had pulled the muscle. This had happened to me once on a Munro and I was out of action for four weeks.

      The guide went into rescue mode and an ATV was arranged to collect me. First I had to get back a painful half a km to before the rocks. Whilst waiting we did see an Ant Eater which was nice and a Black Hawk.

      The ATV took us back to the trailhead and transport was arranged to take us the 90 minutes back to town.

      A mixture of emotions. Very disappointed not to have another day and a half to explore this amazing wilderness. The hike had cost $$$ and should have been a top experience for Costa Rica.

      But on the other hand very grateful that this happened in Costa Rica which had a rescue protocol (I was 6th rescue this year) and that we are both safe and relatively well.

      After removing all the ticks from the jungle (!) and having a shower and hot meal we have reflected that we have been pushing it hard the last week or so and perhaps this is natures way of telling us to slow down, well I will have to as will be physically restricted for the next few weeks.
      Les mer

    • Dag 128

      Puerto Jiménez

      10. mars 2023, Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

      diä letschtä paar täg hemmer hauptsächli mit reisä verbracht, da mir üs entschiede hend nöd z viel ziit in panama und costa rica z vrbingä. es sind beidi wunderschöni länder wo unglaublich viel büted. das gsehnd aber natürli au viel reisendi so. diä zwei länder wimmled nur so vor touristä.
      mir wänd jedoch kei massetourismus sondern wieder weg vu dem. mir reised gern geg dr strom und so sölls ez au witr ga. also ab uf nicaragua.

      greist simmer vu panama nach costa rica mit 6 verschiednä büs und anschlüssend nuch miterä fähre.
      beidi länder sind eher tür, aber me chan z wasser usem hanä trinkä und es isch guäts wasser. bi de anderä länder wäri das definitiv unmöglich gsi.

      in costa rica hemmer üs bewusst für nur ei ufenthalt entschiede. mir hend extra ei nationalpark gnu wo chlei schwieriger z erreiche isch.
      und es het sich glohnt es isch nöd allzu touristisch gsi und mir hend wiedr wunderschöni tier und natur gseh. 😍
      und z coolä isch nu gsi as mir per zuäfall nuch amne älterä herr hend dörfä zuäluäge we er chäs macht. sehr spanned gsi und dr chäs isch au gar nöd mal so schlecht gsi. 🧀

      ah ja und es isch suber. aso ja mir sind schunu witweg vu suber. aber im gegesatz zu dem womer diä letschtä paar münet gseh hend, chame säge wow isch das suber.
      Les mer

    • Dag 10

      Corcovado Nationalpark

      6. april 2023, Costa Rica ⋅ 🌧 29 °C

      Gestern habe ich eine Tour durch den Corcovado Nationalpark gemacht. Ich hatte viel darüber gelesen, dass sich dieser Nationalpark in Costa Rica besonders lohnen sollte. Im Park leben so viele verschiedene Tiere, dass man von ca 3% der gesamten (!!!) Biodiversität der Welt sprechen kann - das ist schon krass. Im Vergleich: es gibt dort allein 90 verschiedene Vogelarten, in ganz Europa sind es gerade mal 60. Also die perfekte Voraussetzung, um viele Tiere zu sehen. In den Park kommt man nur mit einem Guide rein und fährt erstmal eine Stunde Boot, um den Eingang zu erreichen. 🌴🚤☀️

      Unser Guide Alvaro war quasi im Park groß geworden und hat uns die Wege entlang geführt, die übrigens nicht mal der Guide verlassen darf. Immer, wenn er ein Tier sah (und das war quasi aller 5 Meter), richtete er ein Fernglas aus, durch das man auch super tolle Fotos machen und die Tiere sehr nah betrachten konnte. Und so ging es 2,5 Stunden durch den Dschungel. Wir sahen drei verschiedene Affenarten, super viele Vögel, eine riesige Familie kleiner Waschbären, einen Ameisenbär, Echsen und sogar eine Tapir-Mama mit Baby! 🦎🐒🦋🦅🦜🦥

      Im Park gibt es außerdem einen Fluss, in dem man aber besser nicht baden gehen sollte. Dort wurde schon beobachtet, wie Krokodile Haie fressen…🐊🦈
      Jaguare und Pumas haben wir nicht gesehen, das kommt wohl aber auch sehr selten vor. Aber auch die leben im Corcovado Nationalpark. 🐆

      Zum Mittag gab es super leckeres lokales Essen an der einzigen Station im Park und wenig später saßen wir wieder auf dem Boot. Es war wirklich ein sehr abenteuerlicher besonderer Tag!

      Ich wünsche euch allen frohe Ostern 🐣🐰
      Les mer

    • Dag 58

      Corcovado - Nationalpark

      28. juli 2022, Costa Rica ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

      Schon wieder ein Nationalpark…ja.

      Aber für das sind wir ja nach Costa-Rica gekommen. Die Artenvielfalt hier ist überwältigend und man sieht Tiere, die es bei uns einfach nicht gibt.

      Früh morgens sind wir mit dem Boot einmal um die halbe Insel gefahren (etwas über eine Stunde) um dann zum Eingang des Nationalparks zu kommen. Hier heisst es Schuhe wechseln. Denn um aus dem Boot zu kommen braucht es Wasserschuhe, da man Knietief im Wasser steht. Für die Wanderung durch den Dschungel natürlich Wanderschuhe.

      Gleich zu Beginn der Tour wurden wir von Howler und Spider Monkeys begrüsst. Die Howler Monkeys sind die zweit lautesten Tiere direkt mach dem Wal 🙉. Viele andere Tiere haben wir hier mit unserem sehr engagierten Guide gesichtet.

      Auf dem Rückweg wird unser Guide dann plötzlich sehr nervös. Das kennen wir bereits von anderen Touren und wir sprinten schnell hinter dem Guide her. Plötzlich halten wir an und werden gebeten, ganz still zu sein und alles Gepäck hier zu lassen. Und siehe da: nur ca. 4 Meter vor uns liegt ganz entspannt ein Puma. WOW was für ein krönender Abschluss. Später erfahren wir, dass man diese Pumas hier nicht mehr so oft sieht und wenn, dann nur vorbeiflitzen.
      Les mer

    • Dag 5

      Bird Calls

      16. juni, Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

      Not a surprise another jam packed day. Still lingering tropical storm but not nearly as bad and not hiking during the torrential downpour.

      This morning started off on the property again, and finally got a show from the crocs (American crocodiles). The huuuuge guy was across the bank, but we got a medium sized one that came up close and personal even showing off his teeth. We saw plenty more basilisk lizards which I don’t think I introed properly in earlier blogs they are known as Jesus Christ lizards because they run on water. We also saw some macaws eating sea nuts again along with a scattering of yellow throated toucans throughout the day. Another morning find was a nesting spot for a bunch of white ibis and western cattle egrets.

      We had a new guide today who was skilled at talking to birds, occasionally his chirping seemed to lure him our way but just as impressive was his ability to know a bird by sound alone and sure enough we would see the bird he prefaced he was hearing. A list of birds we can remember seeing were (not including the morning birds): roadside hawk, crane hawk, red capped manikin, kingfishers, tiger heron, yellow headed caracara, crested caracara, king vultures, fiery billed acari toucans, multiple boat billed herons, green heron, parakeets. Out of the list the most notable ones… The king was the king vulture. Sounds pretty boring, but apparently that was quite the find - the guide was stoked. He claimed it was a National Geographic shot to get it perched as it was, and we saw two! From the Merlin Bird Id (our newly found app the locals use to find birds and their calls): “Uncommon, large, and spectacular bird of lowland tropical forest, mainly in wilder areas and not around human habitation. Most often seen soaring overhead in mid-late morning, often fairly high up with kettles of Black Vultures; rarely seen perched”. Fiery billed acari toucans I find cooler than your standard toucan. I stumped the guided initially by asking the guide why their bills are so long, turns out one of the many reasons is temperature regulation. The other bird to note is the red capped manikin, aka the Michael Jackson bird because of its mating dance, take a look on YouTube. Sadly it wasn’t in the mood to mate.

      On the non bird side we saw a green iguana like the first day of arrival, but this time on the road. A group of three coatis, two morpho butterflies (Gunter caught a glimpse this time), some non sea turtles in the morning. Of course, monkeys. Spider, howler, and white capuchin. No squirrel monkeys, but regular squirrels.

      We also had a new adventure van which certainly looked more adventurous and was much bumpier than before. We even crossed a river in it.

      Tonight I’m writing this while we simultaneously blow dry / iron our shower washed clothes. The indoors and outdoors doesn’t seem to dry anything one lick dang humidity. Wish we had time to night walk but instead we are both playing the confused housewife role (I don’t know who irons their clothes dry but we are scrappy). We have to have all our clothes packed up for after our all day tour tomorrow to drop off for the next days 5:20am departure for a 12 mile (20km) hike.
      Les mer

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