Spain 2023

July 2023
A 19-day adventure by Napoleon, Nadia Karina, Karina & Oliver Napoleon Read more
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  • 19days
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  • 15.9kkilometers
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  • 899kilometers
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  • Day 18

    Bonus round: Toledo

    July 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    United Airlines alerted us of the possibility of a flight delay due to thunderstorms and offered to change the flight at no cost. On top of that, when we checked, we realized that by changing the flight, we would get back almost 25% of the miles we spent on the airfare, so it was a really easy decision to hold back and stay an extra day.

    We decided to take it easy, and after getting delicious empanadas as breakfast, we got a rental car and traveled to Toledo, which is about 55 minutes away, driving from the center of Madrid.

    We didn't do much sightseeing but got to do some shopping from stores in Calle Comercio. The stores are of two kinds: weapons (mostly swords and katanas) and jewelry with some of the famous Toledo damasquinado. Napoleon got a few cufflinks while we also got earrings for Nadia and a beautiful jewelry set for Karina. We got to see a bit of the architecture of the town, including its emblematic city gate (puerta de Bisagra Nueva) and the Blood Gate together with the Cervantes statue close to its downtown.

    We got back to Madrid around 10 pm, happy of having finished our last day with a last horrah in Toledo.
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  • Day 17

    Our (alleged) last dinner in Spain

    July 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    As we were getting ready to finish our trip and leave Madrid, we looked for a place to get a last, unforgettable dinner. We decided to go to "Rosi La Loca," a restaurant very close to our AirBnB with a unique atmosphere.

    The place itself and the food are crafted around themes from Alice in Wonderland and other similar tales. The drinks and the dishes come into unique plating settings, including figurines of the stories. The whole place has a pink lighting and has a very playful decor.

    We enjoyed being together after a long day of sightseeing and trying new items. The most exotic one was duck dumplings in a hoisin sauce with pears. For dessert, we got their version of Tiramisu that comes into smoking blender that was delicious and fun to eat! We were ready to say goodbye to Spain and get our flight the next day, but...
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  • Day 17

    Plaza España, Puerta del Sol y Cibeles

    July 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    The taxi left us couple of blocks away from Puerta del Sol and as we headed into it we found a small group of musicians playing classical pieces and although it had been a long day we stopped and listen to them for a while. Afterwards, we finished the walk and arrived at Puerta del Sol, which happened to be a plaza. This place is famous because it is the equivalent of Times Square during the New Year celebration, and thousands of people come together to see the clock on the tower get to midnight.

    We continued walking towards Plaza España where there is a famous monument to Cervantes showcasing Don Quijote and Sancho Panza. We then headed to dinner and just before heading home we did a quick visit of Plaza Cibeles, which is renowned because it is the place where the Real Madrid celebrate its championships.
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  • Day 17

    Almudena Cathedral and Royal Palace

    July 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Our next stop was the Royal Palace and the Almudena Cathedral. We first visited the Cathedral, which is relatively modern as it was consecrated by John Paul II in 1997. The building seems to take influence from moorish designs , and it seems a bit similar to Sagrada Familia as it comes on its use of light for the glass windows. The chapels lying around the main body vary in style from roman/medieval to a very modern one dedicated to John Paul II. The sculptures and altar work are really beautiful, and we left thinking that there are plenty of beautiful churches in Spain.

    We then stopped by the Royal Palace, which was a pleasant surprise. None of us had ever seen anything like it. While the full palace is made of 3,400 rooms, visitors are only allowed within 35 of them. The feeling we got from the visit is that we couldn't imagine another place showcasing as much luxury as we saw. Full paintings on every ceiling of the rooms, silk on every drape, and just incredible pieces of craftsmanship. For example, there was a room fully made of porcelain panels that were so masterfully put together that the seams were almost invisible. We also saw the dinner services of multiple kings and the throne room that was first utilized in the palace.

    With just a little bit more to see, we left the palace and took a cab towards Puerta del Sol to end our sightseeing day.
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  • Day 17

    Parque de El Retiro

    July 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    El Retiro is one of the most famous parks in Madrid, just like Central Park is famous in New York. Since this was our last day and we hadn't really visited Madrid, we decided to see as much as possible.

    We started by heading to Puerta de Alcala, which is just outside the park. To our disappointment, it was under renovation and was not visible at all. So we just headed straight into the park, and right away, we started finding characters in costumes that were irresistible for Oliver (and for us given how happy it made him).

    As we strolled into the park, we found a pond where one could rent a small boat and row around. The pond had turtles and fish that came outside the water every once in a while.

    We then headed towards the Crystal House (which was also closed for renovation) and ended our walk in the Fountain of the Fallen Angel, the only monument in the world dedicated to Lucifer. We took a quick refresher just in front of the fountain and took a cab to our next destination: the Royal Palace and Madrid's famous Almudena Cathedral.
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  • Day 15

    Granada

    July 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    Just like the previous day, we arrived before mid day and left our luggage at the rental. We then went to take a tour of La Alhambra, one of the most iconic human-made structures on the entire world. Our tour lasted 3 hours and went through the three main areas of La Alhambra: Generalife, Alcazaba, and Nazari Palace.

    Generalife is the largest area, and it was the place where generals arrived and rested in Alhambra. It is filled with lush gardens and beautiful fountains. The guide told us many stories and legends about the Generalife while we were walking its full extension.

    The three main areas are all connected through a central plaza dedicated to Carlos V. After the visit to Generalife, we walked through the Alcazaba, which is the oldest part of the complex. It is full of ruins of walls and towers where soldiers used to live and defend the city.

    Overall the Generalife and Alcazaba were not as impressive as Cordoba Cathedral in terms of architectonic style. However, our opinion changed once we arrived at the Nazari Palace. The work on the walls and floors of the palace is unique and showcases some of the best moorish work known today.

    We visited most of the iconic places of the palace, including Patio de Comares, where the pool is set up as a mirror and Patio de los Leones. The work on the walls of the Palace makes it easy for the sight to wander and find new places to explore and see.

    We enjoyed what we saw on the visit and the only detail that made it hard was that our tour guide was in "speed run" mode and we were rushing the 3 hours through the complex with limited opportunities to take on the sights and take pictures.

    The last stop in the area was in Jardines Alberto, where we enjoyed some of the local Nazari cuisine. We got Vizier Lamb and Nazari chicken, and it was really good; Nazari food is significantly more complex than the one found in the North, combining fruits and nuts with meats to create unique dishes.

    We got back home, and at night, Karina and Napoleon visited the Hammam Al-Andalus arab baths. The place is built on top of an old arab bathhouse that was converted into a bread oven after the Christian conquest forbid public bathhouse. The place is amazing with four different pools at different temperatures, a sauna, and a massage area.

    Once the session was done, they got dinner on their way home, and the full family got ready to get back to Madrid the next day.
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  • Day 14

    Cordoba

    July 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    We arrived in Cordoba just before mid day, and the day was really hot. Each year the highest temperature in Spain is reached in Cordova, and we could tell why. The kind of rock used to build the city gets warm during the day and releases the heat at night (even at 9 p.m., we were at 35 °C and felt like we were walking inside an oven!)

    We dropped the luggage at our rental apartment (probably the best one we got during the trip) and headed out to our tour of the Jewish Quarter and the Cathedral Mosque. Our guide was named Miguel and was really knowledgeable. We walked through very picturesque alleyways and streets in Cordoba while he was telling stories about how the quarter came into existence across the centuries.

    In the second part of the tour, we entered the Cathedral Mosque, a unique building declared as humanity heritage by the UN. The building started as a mosque, and when the town was captured by Christians who didn't have the resources to demolish the old building, they decided to reutilize it and convert it onto a cathedral

    The way in which mosque and cathedral elements mix within the architecture of the building is unique and, at times, surreal. The building is magnificent although to make a point the Christians decided to play with the lighting and left the areas that look more like a mosque with shadows while the Cathedral main space is possibly the most illuminated one in the world.

    We loved the tour and the gardens and spaces of Cordoba but were exhausted of the last few days, and the heat was unbearable. We got lunch at Bodegas Mezquita and tried salmorejo (an Andalusian version of gazpacho) and bull's tail stew.

    Once we got home, the unanimous decision of the family was to honor the long-held tradition of having a midday nap to deal with the heat. We woke up around 9 pm, and since Oliver was still sleeping, Karina and Napoleon went for a walk to the Roman Bridge and the city of the gate while doing some required shopping along the way.
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  • Day 13

    Kari's celebration at Nerea's house

    July 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Nerea's family kindly invited us to celebrate Karina's birthday at their home. They prepared gazpacho, sangria, and humus and bought several dishes for us to try, including albondigas and bacalao al pil pil.

    The dinner was delicious and the company couldn't be better. We talked about the trip, food in Spain, kids, life in Spain vs. other places in the world and a little bit of everything else. Nerea's dad made an interesting comment about sightseeing, mentioning that in his opinion, the best monument in Spain was Segovia Aqueduct as it doesn't require extensive amounts of time to be comprehended (as opposed to El Escorial, for example) while it clearly is a sight to see. So it is as efficient as can be as a national monument.

    The dinner ended with a pear cake with a single candle and ice cream. It was a wonderful evening, and we were grateful for having been blessed with it.
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  • Day 13

    Valle de Colgamuros y Escorial

    July 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We went to visit two different yet unique places on Karina's birthday: el Valle de Cuelgamuros and the El Escorial Palace.

    Our first stop was the Valle. It houses an incredible basilica carved just inside a mountain. It is an imposing place, and one of the things that called our attention was the sculptures inside the basilica, including the figures of two imposing angels guarding the entrance, and those of monks overseeing the people attending the service. As luck would have it, there was a mass at the time we came in, and for that reason, we couldn't take a picture of the place.

    The basilica is crowned by a massive 150-meter high cross with a depiction of the 4 evangelists at its bottom. The cross is visible from the esplanade.

    From there, we drove 20 minutes to reach El Escorial, an obligated scale for those who are tourists in the area of Madrid. El Escorial is a Palace-Convent that is famous for holding the remnants of most kings of Spain and their families. The Convent-Palace shows the close connection that existed between Church and Monarchy at the peak of the Spanish Empire. The most impressive room of the complex is the Library, which was designated as a room to study books but also to perform studies on astronomy and mathematics, amongst others. The second part of the complex is the Covent, which also includes the tomb rooms for Spanish royalty.

    Nerea met with us at El Escorial and made the tour as we caught up and talked. Afterward, Nerea suggested for us to stop at a nice restaurant just 3 kilometers away, where we enjoyed some tinto de verano, octopus, and salad. We were ready to head into our final destination of the day at the heart of Madrid.
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  • Day 12

    Segovia Aqueduct

    July 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    We found a restaurant close to the Alcazar and had our first experience with Castilian cuisine in Asador David Guijarro. For dinner, we had a dinner menu, including Judiones de la Granja (a dish very similar to Fabada but with large beans from San Ildefonso) and lechoncillo. The lechincillo was very similar to Peking duck, but with pork. It is crispy on the outside, soft and juicy on the inside, and absolutely delicious to eat. The deserts were also amazing, especially the dessert in the form of a candle and full of yogurt ice cream that the kids had.

    After dinner, we walked towards our inn and did a small stop at the Aqueduct. It is very impressive as it has stood the test of time, having been built almost two thousand years ago. It was functional until about 50 years ago, and it is a testament to the ability of Roman architects. The double arch design is functional, beautiful, and interesting all at the same time. The funniest part, though, was that as we started taking pictures, we started to make funny poses, and we kept going while laughing like maniacs in the middle of the street. To the credit of Segovians and other tourists, no one seemed to actually care or judge us for it, and got some really funny pictures for kicks and laughs. What a great way to finish the day!
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