Greece
Attica

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    • Day 122–127

      Gente che va, gente che viene

      September 9 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

      Ci svegliamo la mattina del 5 nella piccola Marina di Agia Pelagia a sud di Cefalonia, oggi le previsioni dicono vento forte, poi chissà cosa veramente ci apparecchierà la giornata.
      A scanso di brutte sorprese decidiamo di affittare una macchina per fare un giro terricolo dell'isola.
      Il giovane che gestisce il contratto d'affitto del mezzo ci racconta com'è la vita sull'isola, divisa tra estate e inverno, che lui nella stagione turistica fa tre lavori contemporaneamente per compensare il periodo di stanca quando non c'è nulla da fare e si può solo vivere di rendita: in effetti la sera lo incontriamo a servire in una taverna.
      È molto gentile e ci consiglia di visitare: Myrtos beach, ampia spiaggia dall'acqua turchese, Assos, paesino arroccato su una penisola e poco approcciabile via mare e per ultimo il delizioso paese di Fiscardo piacevolissimo nonostante i tanti turisti.

      Nel tardo pomeriggio, scarichiamo la famiglia loredanesca all'aeroporto e imbarchiamo Dario, terzo equipaggio della stagione 2024 che non sa ancora cosa lo attende nell'immediato futuro.

      Il giorno dopo ci svegliamo alle sett'albe perché abbiamo 125 miglia da percorrere per arrivare allo Stretto di Corinto.
      Quindi partiamo prima delle 7 e le prime 60 miglia vanno di motore, ma non appena superiamo il ponte di Patrasso, sale un vento di poppa sui 20-25 nodi che ci permette di andare con il solo fiocco. L'onda è molto disordinata e ci sballotta parecchio, per fortuna Dario non soffre il mal di mare. Dopo una navigazione ininterrotta, ci troviamo a solcare lo stretto di Corinto alle 8 del mattino.
      Cinque anni fa, lo avevamo già percorso insieme con altre decine di barche, mentre oggi il canale è tutto per noi. Lo solchiamo in solitaria, nel silenzio, a 7 nodi, la velocità imposta dalla Capitaneria di Porto.
      È una sensazione bellissima! Le pareti incombono alte su di noi, sulla destra una volpe ci osserva, dietro di noi crolla una piccola frana e salutiamo la gente che da uno dei ponti ci guarda navigare di sotto.

      La sera arriviamo a Poros, si tratta di un'isola a nord del Peloponneso e separata dalla terra da uno stretto braccio di mare. Ci ormeggiamo in baia di fronte al porto. La vicinanza con Atene ne fa una meta turistica molto frequentata, scesi a terra, ammiriamo yachts giganteschi allineati lungo la banchina.
      Anche il paese è molto vivace e accogliente, ma noi dopo un giorno e mezzo di navigazione siamo un po' rintronati dal sonno, quindi dopo uno spuntino veloce, ritorniamo a bordo e collassiamo in cuccetta.

      Il giorno dopo navighiamo verso l'isola di Egina, diamo àncora in una cala di fronte a un resort in disarmo, peraltro già brutto ai suoi tempi d'oro, anche la baia non è niente di che, ma almeno siamo soli... illusi!
      Nel tardo pomeriggio arrrivano in rapida sequenza sette catamarani e due monoscafi abitati da giovani tedeschi. Si ormeggiano appaiati, uno di loro inalbera una gigantesca bandiera tedesca con un'aquila nera al centro. Mettono musica a palla con un ritornello martellante che recita Deutschland! Deutschland! più altre cose che non capiamo per ignoranza della lingua. Con ogni probabilità abbiamo beccato una sezione di Alternative für Deutschland
      in vacanza.
      Verso mezzanotte oramai parla l'alcol e ne abbiamo piene le tasche, ma non sappiamo cosa fare, noi siamo tre, loro 50 oranghi urlanti, presumibilmente anche rissosi e ubriachi. Decidiamo signorilmente di non lamentarci e sopportiamo il chiasso che si protrae fino alle 5 del mattino seguente.

      Nottata persa e figlia femmina, appena svegli scocciamo l'ancora e fuggiamo verso il porto di Poros; domani è previsto vento forte.

      Un saluto da Mozzilla
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    • Day 2

      Athen Tag 2

      September 18 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      Der Tag startete mit einem 3-Gänge Brunch (man gönnt sich ja sonst nix ;-) )
      Etwas voll aber glücklich machten wir uns auf die erste Erkundungstour durch Athen. Viele antike Gebäude, ein cooles Viertel mit vielen sehenswerten Lokalen und Bars und zum Abschluss ein gelungenes Abendessen (mit den besten Rips!!). Zwischendurch Rooftop Pool Test mit schönem Blick auf die Akropolis.Read more

    • Day 124–126

      Pesca a strascico e celolunghismo

      September 11 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Dario, nostro terzo equipaggio di stagione, ci abbandona il 10 alle 8:00 del mattino, lasciandomi all'ingrato compito di unico mozzo di bordo con una montagna di panni da lavare.

      Il giorno dopo dovremmo partire per spostarci nel golfo argolico, ma c'è un piccolo problema: abbiamo dato fondo per primi in porto e, le altre barche arrivate dopo di noi, con ogni probabilità hanno sovrapposto la loro àncora alla nostra.
      Mentre aspettiamo che arrivi il nostro turno, assistiamo al solito spettacolo di pesca a strascico. Funziona così: una barca tenta di scocciare la propria àncora per partire, nel farlo solleva anche quella di un'altra barca perché data la vicinanza questo succede. Dopo di che se c'è bonaccia nel giro di un quarto d'ora riesce a liberarsi dall'àncora altrui, se invece c'è vento forte succede di tutto, le barche sbattono una contro l'altra e partono gli insulti.
      Oggi non c'è vento e le quattro o cinque pesche a strascico che osserviamo si risolvono senza danni. S'è fatto tardi e finalmente tocca a noi; incrociamo le dita e... niente, il nostro vicino ha sovrapposto la sua catena sulla nostra, ci ha bloccato, ma lui non pare intenzionato a muoversi. Parte la rissa tra capitani.

      E qui necessita un inciso: qualsiasi torto abbia il capitano di una barca, mai mai ammetterà davanti a un pubblico di aver fatto un errore! Parlo ovviamente di maschi la cui autorità al giorno d'oggi è messa in continua discussione da mogli figlie sorelle ecc. Qual è quindi il momento del loro riscatto? Quello in cui salgono in barca, indossano i galloni di comandante e assumono ex lege la piena responsabilità di tutto ciò che succede a bordo. La quantità di skipper donne è talmente esigua che sul tasso testosteronico del gentil sesso al comando non mi pronuncio.
      Dicevo, dopo aver incrociato le spade con Capitan Marti, il proprietario dell'altra barca si impenna E dichiara:

      "Tu hai torto e io ho ragione perché son ben 25 anni che faccio questo lavoro" ( tre punti esclamativi ).

      A questo punto Il buon senso suggerirebbe una risposta breve e laconica del tipo "mo me lo segno", invece no, anche CM s'ingorilla e se ne esce così:

      "E io son ben 45 anni che vado per mare" ( 4 punti esclamativi ).

      Dopo questa esibizione di celolunghismo a me viene da ridere e, per non peggiorare la situazione, simulo una telefonata e mi infilo all'interno della barca.

      Il capitano non pare cogliere il lato comico della vicenda.

      Saluti dal mozzo Mozzilla
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    • Day 24

      From Athens to Santorini

      August 29, 2019 in Greece ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

      Who says we are lazy? Up at 7.00 for breakfast then waiting at the gates of the Acropolis at 8.00am. Method to our madness - beat the heat and the crowds!! It was a great time to go there was no queues and the heat was bearable. Amazing sights and history. By the time we were leaving there were thousands of people and we couldn’t wait to get out of there. Still you can’t go to Athens without seeing the Acropolis.

      After getting organised we headed off to the airport again, but this time took the Metro, which was easy and only cost 20 Euro against the taxi which was 55. Made it easily to the airport and again sat around for hours but it was worth it, arriving in Santorini made the airport boredom disappear.

      We caught a taxi to our apartment which is just amazing with an incredible view from our balcony of the sea and the Caldera. Absolutely heaven. Amazing place and the scenery is gorgeous.

      There is one photo of me reclining and trying to look like a model. We laughed and laughed about this one because everywhere we go there are gorgeous girls flicking their hair and posing for photos. They get in your way and you get dirty looks if you dare to get in the way. So we decided to do our own, who says a 60 year old can’t compete!😂😂 well maybe not compete but we had a good laugh.

      Of course we have taken hundreds of photos because you want to capture everything you see which is impossible. But we had dinner on a cliff side and watched the sunset on our first night in Santorini.
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    • Day 21

      Blonde foils thanks

      September 6, 2019 in Greece ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

      Breaky at 8.00am

      We have booked a 10.00am appointment at the hairdressers, Theens and I, as our roots are a disgrace. Eddy is our hairdresser, whom speaks English well, and is silly and cheeky, and I like him a lot.

      He does a great job of our roots. I book a 4.30appt to have blonde highlights.

      My bank contacted me about fraudulent activity on my card. So I called them from reception.
      I had to argue with reception man re CBA reverse charges call. He told me I had to pay for the call and wouldn't listen to me. I finally got through and sorted out my funds.

      Theens cousin, Paul and Christina picked her up at 2.30pm for a catch up.
      I ate chinese food in my room and watched moreTimothy C on YouTube. I also sat up on the rooftop in the wind by myself lots listening to videos on headphones.

      I went to the hairdressers at 4.30pm and had a great time. They look after you here. 'Como' salon in Athens. I came out so so blonde!!

      The souvenirs here are not 'made in Greece' I discovered, however it is written as 'made by Greeks' !

      Dinner at our plaka restarant again and we eat like vacuum cleaners. Both have the veal mushroom and potato, because Athena would not stop talking about it yesterday.

      Walked all around the Plaka, bought some small souvenirs. One old man gave me lollies, then kisses then a couple of freebies. I walked out all emotional. Athena teared up too. Some of these Greeks give out so much love.

      Walking the streets I picked up, whilst sucking a ventolin. 'Hello princess'. (it is the hair) I just looked at him and kept walking. Athena laughed at this poor guys attempt.

      To the hotel rooftop bar we go, which is really our home, saying all the while 'God I love Amanda, she is amazing, I just love her.'

      Our hotels have been right in the middle of everything, and we really appreciate this. Along with breakfasts and transfers.
      Thank you Amanda, you are always our hero, whenever we explore.

      The golden Acropolis is there before our eyes.
      Once again, we get drunk, and we are the last ones up there and get kicked out.

      Waddled down to bed, Athena begins snoring and that's the end of our day.
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    • Day 15

      Travel to Athens

      October 16, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      We slept in, ate a late breakfast, and then drove to Athens. We took the back roads for some of the way, driving through villages and a big town or two. It’s fun to see how life happens for normal people— saw a lot of little market stands, people navigating chaotic traffic on bikes, and lots of old men sitting outside in cafes. Not much in the way of urban planning or traffic planning that we could see. About 100 km out, we got on the toll road and dropped the car at the airport. You would need nerves of steel or a death wish to drive in Athens.

      Our hotel is a notch above our normal level, but the bar, pool, and restaurant have a view of the Acropolis and the elliptical is the best one of the entire trip by far. Seems like a good splurge so far.
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    • Day 16

      First day in Athens

      October 17, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      Today we decided to see a few of the “minor” sites and also visit the National Archaeological Museum. Hadrian’s Library, the Roman Agora, and the museum took up most of the day. We ended with a great dinner in a restaurant near the hotel, which we found by just poking around. Tomorrow, the Acropolis!Read more

    • Day 17

      Plan B

      October 18, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Well, I could not get Joe out of bed early enough for a trip to the Acropolis. The cruise ship groups start arriving around 9 or 10, so getting there by 8 is one way to avoid the hoards. So, on to Plan B. Luckily, there is no shortage of things to visit in Athens!

      We went to the Ancient Greek Agora, with one gorgeous temple, supposedly the most perfectly preserved of any Doric temple in Greece. We also saw a “jury selection” machine — the citizens put in a credit-card-size engraved stone, and then with some balls rolling around, the jurors are selected. Wonder if it was more efficient than sending letters out to random voters.

      After lunch, we went to the new Acropolis museum. Opened about ten years ago, the Greeks had hoped it would be the perfect place for displaying the Elgin marbles, if only the Brits would send them back. Ha, fat chance!

      Though I did not retain the details of the many times Athens was destroyed by invaders, it did stay with me that the glory days of Athenian democracy lasted from about 490 BC to at the very latest 146 BC when they finally lost out to the Romans. Some current events lead me to wonder whether Athens will continue in first place or whether the US will hold on long enough to beat the record. As the Washington Post says—democracy dies in darkness.

      And we somehow snagged a table at the oh so trendy Nolan Restaurant, which is a Japanese-Greek fusion place and the best meal we’ve had on this trip!
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    • Day 18

      Acropolis or bust!

      October 19, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      So once again we changed our plans. Last night at dinner, the manager of the restaurant suggested that we consider a mid-late afternoon Acropolis trip. If we took the “back door” entry, we would walk up past some of the less-visited sites, like the theater of Dionysus, and by the time we got to the top where the Parthenon and other crowd magnets are, most of the tour groups would be gone.

      That meant late breakfast and morning gym workout, to mix things up a bit.

      First stop, back to Hadrian’s arch (dividing Ancient Greek Athens from Ancient Roman Athens) and the remaining 15 Corinthian columns of what must have been a pretty fantastic temple to Zeus. After a light lunch, a slow stroll (so as not to wear out the old guy before he hit the Acropolis hill) and some ice cream. Finally, at about 3:00, we started up the “back side” of the hill so we could see the huge theater. When we got up to the main sights, the crowds were still pretty heavy, so Joe promptly found a bench and took a nap, while I walked around. At about 4:30, we ventured up the steps and enjoyed the temples. The late afternoon sun was just beautiful. There were people there, but no crushing crowds.

      After sunset, we made our way back down, very happy to have visited such an important and beautiful place.
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    • Day 19

      Last Day in Athens

      October 20, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      For our last day in Athens, Joe had just one thing he wanted to do — walk through the ruins of what is (probably) the site of the Lyceum where Aristotle taught. This is the place where Aristotle supposedly used the “peripatetic” teaching method, walking through th grounds discussing with his students. On our way, we saw some crowds down the street, so we turned in that direction. Lo and behold, it was the weekly ceremonial changing of the guard at the site of the tomb of the unknown soldier, which is right in front of Parliament. We had a great position by some struck of dumb luck, and we were thoroughly impressed with the exaggerated strides of soldiers dressed in traditional military uniforms. Marching, music, all the trappings.

      The ruins of Aristotle’s school leave a lot to the imagination, but there are signs to indicate layout and purpose of buildings. And imagine our surprise to see that right next door was the Medieval and Byzantine museum. Now who could resist that, especially after a quick glance at Michelin saw that it has two stars.

      It is a fabulous place, especially the rooms dedicated to early Christianity up through the fall of Constantinople. We saw shoes from the 5th century! Clothing from the 4th! Lots of beautiful pieces from the early days of Christianity in Greece.

      After a leisurely lunch in the very good museum café, we walked back slowly through the National Gardens, blending in with the many crowds out for their Sunday walk in the sun.

      Tonight we may finally take a stroll through tourist-shop heaven, the narrow pedestrian streets of Plaka, which we have been through only in transit. And then tomorrow, bright and early, off to the airport!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Attica, Attika, Αττική, Attique, 아티키 주

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