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    • Day 12

      Day 12 - Gone Fishin'

      August 12, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Quite frankly it was a pretty lazy start to the day for us all. I pottered around doing my blog, whilst the others did other things, mostly basking in the sun in the front garden. A fox ran across the field, then we were joined by Rosie the Donkey & a herd of bullocks.

      It wasn’t until midday that we set out to the local town of Lismore for a walk & some shopping. We parked up in the sunshine & headed to the Lismore Tourist Information Office to enquire about pony trekking. Unfortunately the nearest stables were amazingly over an hours drive away, so that was crossed off the itinerary.

      We then embarked a walking tour of Lismore led by our guide, Chris. First stop was St Carthage’s Cathedral, which had been a Church since the 7th Century. We went in & met the cleaner, who it turned out was kept busy with a family of swallows nesting in the ceiling. It wasn’t the most attractive of Cathedrals if we are going to be brutally honest.

      We then found an outdoor handball court dating back to 1875 whereupon it started to spit with rain. We ummed & ahhed about continuing the walk & decided to go for it. It was the wrong decision, by the time we got the river bank it was pouring down. We ran for cover, dispersing in all directions.

      All thoroughly saturated we met up with each other about 20 minutes later with the rain having now stopped. The other three headed back to the town centre, but I went off in the opposite direction to a bridge that overlooked the back of Lismore Castle.

      Lismore Castle is currently owned by the Duke of Devonshire & recently hosted Charles & Camilla when they visited Ireland. The Castle has had some illustrious owners including Sir Walter Raleigh, Richard Boyle, once the richest man in Ireland & Robert Boyle, the ‘Father of Modern Chemistry’. Guests have included John F Kennedy, Fred Astaire & Adele Astaire. Sadly, only the gardens at Lismore Castle are open to the public, but at €8 a time I’m not sure whether we will visit.

      After taking several photos of the castle, I walked back up the hill to the town centre & got caught in another downpour. I took shelter & failed to make contact with the others who were in the supermarket. We met up in the Redhouse Inn for a beer & a toastie.

      After lunch, we drove to Cappoquin & drove around & around until we finally located the fishing tackle shop, which it turned out to be inside the Post Office, where the postmaster doubled up as the fishing expert as well. I bought a rod & some spinners, which we were assured would catch us some trout. As if!

      We then returned to Lismore & drove down to Ballysaggartmore Towers, where a circuitous walk took us along a woodland path of ancient oak trees for about half a mile to the Towers & Grand Lodge. Ballysaggartmore Towers were built around 1830 by notorious landlord, Arthur Keily-Ussher, as an entrance to a massive stately home he was intending to build. During the Great Famine, Keily-Ussher evicted his tenants to make way for sheep that he judged were more profitable. A group of tenants plotted to kill Keith-Ussher, but the plot failed & he had them transported to Tasmania. During the walk it poured with rain yet again, which was just not funny.

      From what I saw of Lismore, between the constant downpours, was a very attractive, spotlessly clean ‘Historic’ town built on the River Blackwater. It also had an exceptionally nice Millennium Park, with several sculptures & points of interest.

      Back at the cottage we had a cup of tea, then Chris attached a weight & a spinner to the fishing rod with some fancy complicated knots. After a few practice casts in the garden, we then marched down through the cow field towards the river. En-route we bumped into Willie digging out rocks in a field & upon seeing our rod he expressed his opinion that the river maybe too deep to catch a fish. I got the distinct impression that he thought we had not a cat in hells of catching a fish.

      Chris & I got to the river bank & muscled our way in between a couple of bullocks. Chris as teacher showed me the ropes with some ‘expert’ casts & rewinding. On around his 5th cast, Chris started reeling in & lo & behold caught a fish, which he landed on the bank. It was a small, but perfectly big enough, brown trout. WoW! A quick photo sent to the girls soon had Jackie racing down to watch two masters ply their craft!

      I had a few casts & managed to hook a few weeds, but after not too many more casts, I also had hooked a brown trout (which was fractionally bigger that Chris’)! My trout put up a tremendous fight & got caught up in the weeds, which required Chris to pull it out. I am also a bit squeamish, so Chris had to de-hook it after I had obviously had my photo taken with it, then he had to stun it with a rock to put it out of it’s misery. But I still caught the fish!

      It was now one-all & the race was on to catch the third & deciding fish. Try as we might, neither of us could land that final fish, despite trying different locations along the river bank. After an hour or so, us hunter / gatherers called it a draw & lugged our haul back to the cottage.

      Chris then gutted the fish & they were put in the oven with oranges as a starter (for 3). Once the delicious fish had been baked & eaten, Chris fired up the BBQ for sausages & burgers, whilst the girls faffed around in the kitchen, which all made for a very lovely evening meal.

      After dinner, we had a tetchy game of Cribbage, that the boys naturally won! This brought an end to the day.

      But on not such a good note during the evening, I managed to break a chunk of my tooth off whilst eating a curly-wurly & Jackie & I received the very sad news that our good friend from Doncaster, Paul Drakett, had passed away.

      Song of the Day - Gone Fishing by Chris Rea
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    • Day 13

      Day 13 - Titanic Over Reaction

      August 13, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      I was awoken just after 6.00am by a load of bullocks............mooing outside our cottage. I got up & finished the blog. We were all up & ready & increadibly out of the door by 10am sharp & heading to Cork.

      We took a convoluted country route, which was all to later become apparent. We paid a €1.90 toll charge & joined the M8 southbound towards Cork. Just north of Cork, I could sense Chris getting gradually more excitable. He kept fiddling with his knobs!

      We continued at a roundabout, joining the N40 & almost immediately entered the Jack Lynch Tunnel which went under the River Lee into Cork. This was the source of Chris’ excitement. The Jack Lynch Tunnel is an immersed tube tunnel, 610 metres long, costing 70 million Irish pounds in 1999 & was modelled on the Medway Tunnel in Kent. The Medway Tunnel was built by Chris’ company & was the 1st of it’s kind in the UK. Some might say he is an anorak.

      We arrived at our destination, Convent Avenue in Cork, but there was no trace of Cork Gaol, or Cork Goal as Jackie referred to it. We were about 6 miles away from the ‘other’ Convent Avenue. It then took us about 30 minutes to negotiate through the hideous traffic to get to Cork Gaol, crossing the River Lee only several times!

      Having parked up, we paid our €12 each admission fee for a guided audio tour of Cork Gaol. The tour took us through the procedure for prisoners when they first arrived at the Gaol. It told us stories of various inmates & the conditions they had to endure.

      Cork Gaol was built in 1818, but was closed due to it’s deteriorated conditions in 1923. The Gaol housed mainly female prisoners, but male prisoners were incarcerated there during certain periods in that time. During the Great Famine, many people committed crimes so that they could be sent to prison, where they would be fed & have a roof over their heads, hence a better quality of life.

      It was a captivating experience. After, we handed our headsets in & visited the Radio Museum in the upper floors of the Gaol. There was an audio visual display of a mock of trial projected on to the walls, which was excellent. We all thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience, believing that they got the amount of information relayed to us about right.

      We returned to the car & headed south to Cobh, pronounced as ‘Cove’ (the Cove of Cork), but was also named Queenstown in 1849. It was another half hour drive from Cork to Cobh & we parked up outside the Cobh Heritage Centre. Cobh is renowned for being the last port of call for the Titanic in 1912 before it sank.

      As a result, both the Cobh Heritage Center & the Titanic Experience Memorial had exhibits relating to the Titanic. Both exhibitions seemed rather on the small side, but still wanted a €10 entrance fee. We decided that we wouldn’t go in to either, particularly as Chris & Angela already knew the Titanic story, in fact so much so that they didn’t watch the film of that name!

      The only other maritime thing of worthy of mention was a statue of Annie Moore & her two brothers on the dockside. Annie Moore embarked from Cobh on the SS Nevada & was the first person to be admitted to the United States of America 🇺🇸 through their new Immigration Center at Ellis Island, New York on 1st January 1892. A statue to celebrate this event has been erected on both sides of the Atlantic. Interestingly, there was a photo of Mary in her later years & she clearly had ingratiated herself into the American fast food culture. She was huge.

      Talking of food, we looked around for somewhere to eat, even in the imposing St. Coleman’s Cathedral that was celebrating it’s centenary. Jackie lit 2 candles, one for her Mum & the other for Paul Drakett. However she should have then gone straight to confession, because she lit the candles from other already lit candles, which was strictly forbidden!

      We failed in our mission to find a suitable eating establishment, so we returned to the car & got out of Cobh, quicker than it’s most famous daughter, International Athlete Sonia O’Sullivan. Our views on Cobh were that it was a bit underwhelming & relied too heavily on it’s connection to the Titanic, but it clearly appealed to the American tourists.

      Leaving Cobh, we drove past Belvelly Castle, which is a 14th/15th Century Stone tower house that has been wonderfully restored & is now a private residence. We continued to the town of Midleton, famous for it’s Jameson Distillery. We parked up & walked up & down the High Street.

      After several enquires & studying of menus, we settled on Finin’s Restaurant & Bar. The girls ordered fish & chips, Chris ordered leg of lamb & I, the Irish Stew...........when in Rome! Half an hour later, there were 4 empty plates & 4 empty glasses.

      We returned to the Cottage & after a cup of tea, Chris & I went fishing again to catch another haul of trout. After an hour of toil, we had failed. Maybe it had just been beginners luck yesterday!

      We returned to the cottage & all nattered in the comfy chairs with wine & beer until late in to the evening. We did however have a pre-bed game of Logo, where I have discovered I am now be targeted & picked on, probably because I win every game we play. Just for the record, I won the Logo game!

      Song of the Day - Titanic (My Over) Reaction by 999
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    • Day 5

      Tage wie diese

      March 8, 2020 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

      Auf die Cliffs of Moher freute ich mich schon in Dresden. Allerlei imposante Bilder tauchen bereits bei Google auf, wenn man „Cliffs of Moher“ in die Suchleiste eintippt. Doch hohe Erwartungen können auch oft enttäuscht werden. Dieses Mal wurden sie es aber nicht. Allein die Anfahrt war geprägt von atemberaubenden Landschaften. Einige Ruinen, viele Farmen, wo einen Schafe, Kühe und Esel aus nächster Nähe grüßten und natürlich nicht zu vergessen: der Atlantik mit seinen kräftigen Wellen, die mich wieder einmal in eine Surf-nostalgie versetzten. Bei den Klippen angekommen ersuchten wir zuerst die Toiletten hinter dem Eingang, auf dem Weg dorthin stellte ich fest, dass es ein Schild gab, worauf vermerkt wurde, dass man ein Eintrittsgeld für die Klippen zahlen müsse. Wir gingen zum kleinen Ticketoffice und zahlten beide 7€, obwohl wir auch ohne Ticket im Vorfeld durch den Eingang gekommen waren. „Sicher ist sicher und man wird bestimmt im Nachhinein noch kontrolliert.“ Man kann es sich schon denken: Die 7€ hatten wir umsonst ausgegeben und bis jetzt haben wir immer noch keinerlei Ahnung wofür das Ticket genau war. Für den Trail entlang der Cliffs of Moher jedenfalls nicht. Doch das sollte unsere Laune nicht mindern (es waren ja auch nur 7€). Glück war mit uns, denn die Klippen waren in den vorherigen Wochen aufgrund von Sturmwarnungen gesperrt. Auch noch am Vortag, dem 07.03. war das Gelände nicht zugänglich. Oberhalb der Klippen kamen wir dann, wie so oft in den letzten Tagen, nicht mehr aus dem Staunen raus. Es war ein Wechselspiel von Sonne, Regen und Wolken. Nicht zu vergessen: der Starke Wind, der mich wieder einmal wegwehte. Wäre Vanessa nicht gewesen und hätte mich nicht im richtigen Moment festgehalten, wer weiß wo ich jetzt schwimmen würde. Ein etwas anderer Adrenalinkick, der mich kurz darauf in einen nicht zu endenden scheinenden Dauerlachflash versetzte. Ein Tag ist besser als der andere hier in Irland. Gegen Abend ersuchten wir wieder unser Stammlokal für ein letztes gemütliches Mahl in Galway. Was wir noch nicht wussten: Es sollte ein ereignisreicher Abend werden. Wir bekamen den letzten Tisch zwischen zwei großen Gruppen einheimischer Iren. Bestellten Cider, einen Burger für Vanessa und einen Auflauf für mich. Ein Mann neben unserem Tisch lächelte uns zu und fing im Laufe des Abends ein Gespräch an. Schnell wurden wir ein Teil der Gruppe. Ich teilte meine bestellten Windbeutel mit den Männern. Einer brachte uns ein traditionelles irisches Lied bei, welches ich fröhlich zusammen mit dem Iren auf der Luftgitarre mitspielte und lauthals Wörter nachsang, die ich nicht verstand. Als der Abend zu Ende zu gehen schien, räusperte die eingetroffene Live Band erste Töne ins Mikrofon, woraufhin wir entschieden noch ein Weilchen zu bleiben. Fast alle im Pub kannten sich untereinander und so wurden Freunde nach vorne auf die Bühne gebeten, um Instrumente zu spielen oder einfach für Tanz und Gesang. Das zweite Lied gefiel mir besonders gut, weshalb ich einen anderen Mann aus der Gruppe nach dem Titel des Songs fragte. Er tippte den Titel in meine Telefonnotizen ein und dazu auch noch gleich seine Telefonnummer. 😂 Als es dann doch sehr spät wurde und wir uns verabschiedeten, bekamen Vanessa und ich noch eine große Umarmung und einen Kuss auf die rechte und linke Wange von dem Mann, den wir ganz zu Beginn kennengelernt hatten und der im Laufe des Abends nicht gerade wenig Guinness gekippt hatte. Einige Reisegrüße folgten und wir verließen das Pub mit einem breiten Grinsen und vielen Erinnerungen, die wir nicht missen möchten.Read more

    • Day 19

      Beara Pennisula and Neilie Dunne

      April 17, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

      My cousin Neilie Dunne and I connected 2 years ago through AncestryDNA. Our great great grandads were brothers. Apparently, when he left Ireland , my GG John Sweeney left the family farm to his brother, Cornelius Sweeney.
      My cousin Neilie Dunne invited us to his home for a meal and gave us a tour of Kinsale including the memorial tree garden for fire fighters killed in 9/ 11 attacks.
      Today Joerg and I enjoyed the drive back to Ballyvourney over the Caher Mountains pass and ended the day at Gobnait’s shrine .
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    • Day 32

      Kerry Cliffs

      June 6, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      After a morning of driving the most scenic 3 hour route in Ireland, in total fog and rain 🤣 the skies finally cleared and gave us a gorgeous 2 hours bang on cue for our venture up to see the Kerry Cliffs. The rain returned as soon as we'd finished lunch and set of driving again 🙃
      We saw lots of the various birds you are supposed to look for here... But sadly no puffins today
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    • Day 32

      Laharn Viewpoint

      June 6, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

      Went to camp in the clouds, apparently there's usually an amazing view 😁

      Early start for a swim this morning (not in a small way for the nice indoor warm showers 🙃) Lennon loves swimming now after taking a few months to suss it out with a permanent confused look, never crying never smiling... He's finally a little waterbaby 🤗 and now we are headed for a ferry to our last section of the Southern Irish CoastRead more

    • Day 9

      Adventures Part 2 - Find Your Way

      June 10, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

      After a smooth transition to Shannon Airport, we drove off in an Audi, because they had nothing else to give us! Oh well! It’s very nice but somewhat unique in some of its controls. Certainly takes some getting used to. Oh, and about getting used to things? Eileen starting driving and did fairly well with the left sided driving thing, entering roundabouts. Larry only had the occasional near death experience with a stone wall or two. All was pretty good until we got to our destination for the next 4 days, the town of Dungarvan on the southern coast of the Celtic Sea. What a spectacular gem! It was recommended to us several years ago as a lovely town and great touring spot. HOWEVER, the streets are narrow and we arrived in the middle of the day and we had trouble finding our hotel. Said a few prayers, took a break by the water before plunging back into the street. With some direction from the hotel (Larry actually walked a block to it - we could see it but couldn’t get there!), we found the car park (parking lot). The hotel is restored, very quaint. Met the owner when we checked in. He was delighted that someone had recommended it to us (a travel agent - pre Covid. Thanks Becky) and asked about our home in US. This town reminds us a little of Annapolis. Harbor town. Sailing club. Lots of pubs and restaurants. Lively town center. Then he informs us that we are very lucky to be visiting this weekend - it’s the West Waterford Festival of Food! If you know Larry, you know he was quite pleased. Town will be closed to traffic (yeah) and tents and vendors and food samples galore.
      Spent the afternoon exploring. Toured the Dungarvan Castle (seems every area has one!), visited a few pubs and continue the challenge for best seafood chowder. Seems it is a staple on every menu everywhere you go, from pubs to fancy places, served with brown bread. A contender for best so far was at The Local - a tiny hole in the wall pub with fabulous staff. Larry plans to continue his quest throughout the next few weeks! Side note - we both have recovered from our GI issues and thankful that a pint tastes good! Hoping our driver has stayed well.
      Finished our evening at the hotel pub, some music. Still struggling with the sunset not happening until after 10pm! The last picture was added to highlight another reason this country is wonderful! - please note choice of cream, ice cream or custard with all desserts. What?? That will be happening tomorrow - too full to enjoy it tonight.
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    • Day 11

      The Waterford Greenway

      June 12, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

      Saturday ended up being a lazy day (we deserved it!) so we walked around town, had a few pints, got a few groceries and ate! Nothing special, just a chill day. Went to evening Mass at the Friary because we made plans to bike ride the next day. In our stroll, we met a local couple who recommended the Greenway by bike. So off to the bike shop, and decided on an E assist bike, recommended by the guy at shop. He told us we should have no problem doing the 46 kilometers round trip from Dungarvan to Kilmacthomas. That’s half of the trail, we definitely were not going to do 92 kilometers! Mission accomplished! Took us 4 1/2 hrs with one long stop to eat and drink. 46 kilometers! Pretty proud of ourselves. It’s was an incredible trip and a must do for anyone near any of the many Greenways in Ireland. Most were constructed 5-10 years ago, using the old railroad access to creat these bike and walking paths. This one took us along the coast and then into the mountains (thank God for the assist bike!), through farm lands and unspoiled spaces. Ended our bike trip with a ride through the Abbeyside, an upscale neighborhood overlooking the town, with an Abbey that sits right on the water. Peaceful. Strolled through the headstones (Jen and Kelly experienced that when we were all together - cemeteries are so interesting).
      The foods festival finishes up today. We strolled through the square and Larry found the seafood paella he was looking for - it was tasty, not the best he has had, but good.
      Running out of clothes, so laundry is definitely on the schedule for tomorrow. Heading to Kinsale on the south coast and Ardmore, which is supposed to have one of the most beautiful beaches in Ireland. Sun was in and out today, tomorrow is supposed to be more sun! Yeah!!
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    • Day 13

      Heron’s Cove

      June 14, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      To say that we have found paradise, is an understatement. This delightful B and B is tucked away on a cove. A tale of two pictures! One after the tide goes out - such dramatic tide changes in many of these towns. Boats lay on their side until the tide come back in. Never will we complain about low tide again! At least we can get boats out whenever we want. Haven’t seen our buddy, the blue heron here yet but we’ve spotted him in other spots over last few weeks.
      The B and B owner isn’t here this week but the restaurant chef, Irene, is in charge and has been so nice to us! She has prepared some amazing meals and accommodating us as we finished up our isolation period for Covid. Checked in with the local chemist in Dungarvan after we did a random home Covid test, mostly due to a scratchy throat and cold symptoms in both of us. Nothing serious but we figured we should check. So we were both positive. The chemist (equivalent to Pharmicist in US but can prescribe some meds and treat minor illnesses) suggested that we probably had an atypical presentation with the GI bug we had last week. He said that Ireland’s rule is 7 days from the onset of symptoms to isolate. Fortunately, we have been doing a lot of outdoor sightseeing and driving ourselves. So that is what we have continued. A quick check in with our driver, Pat, and all is well with him. Larry rolled through with just a bit of stuffiness, Eileen developed a cough that is just annoying. Fortunately, the weather has been beyond beautiful and outdoor dining and beer gardens have made this a lot easier! We also had already planned a lighter, relaxing few days in West Cork, so that’s what we have done. As in the US, outdoor dining has become popular in the post Covid world. Unfortunately, a lot has changed in the post Covid world here but that will be for another post.
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    • Day 72

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 7

      June 24, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

      The skies opened up a bit today, and Ireland showed us the cool and rainy weather that tends to match its reputation.

      We did some window shopping in the neighborhood, and when it rained harder, we saw that as a good excuse to consume crepes and cappuccinos.

      We took advantage of a reprieve in the storm, and we enjoyed a coastal walk along Kinsale's Scilly Trail. The flowers, pastel colored homes and water served as a necessary, but too brief a distraction from the SCOTUS news back home.

      I feel for every woman back home who has now taken the brunt of a decision made by an illegitimate court. While it would be easy to also feel sorry for myself about "previews of coming attractions", I know that we will soon return home to do our part to make the U.S. a safe place to be. But for today, I realize that the pleasure of a holiday stroll along Ireland's beautiful coast or a beer at a local pub is diminished by the palpable anger that I sense "across the pond" in a country that feels very lost.

      Eurooean acquaintances who we have met on our journey keep asking "What's happened to America?" They don't understand guns, election corruption, a cultish following of a deranged former President and the erosion of a woman's reproductive freedom.

      I don't have a good answer other than to say that it's very broken, and we will need to regroup and fight again."

      A print on a restaurant wall caught my eye this evening. It was filled with sheep in the streets. Sheep don't change anything. The power of angry people working together do. They have always prevailed. We will too.

      Despite the storms here, we had a beautiful day- a lovely walk, a drink among Irish folks, a spectacular dinner and time with each other.

      We will weather the storms back home as well, and come November, we will do everything we can to make it a brighter day for all.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Munster, An Mhumhain, مونستر, Манстэр, Мънстър, Cúige Mumhan, مونستەر, Манстер, Munsteri provints, Còigeamh Mumhan, Queiggey Mooan, מנסטר, マンスター, მანსტერი, Мунстер, 먼스터, Momonia, Mansteris, Munster Séng, Momonîn, منستر, Munsteri, مونسٹر, 芒斯特省

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