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  • Camino Portuguese
    Dag 13–15

    LISBON (2)

    13 april, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    We trained back to Lisbon to return the rental bikes and catch up with John's brother, Bob, his wife, Linda, and their expat friend, Heather. The city was alive with the energy of spring, and the streets were bustling with activity. We strolled towards Heather's favorite neighborhood pizza place, taking in the sights and sounds of celebrations as vibrant music, joyous laughter, and clinking glasses echoed from the cozy cafes that lined the square. Couples walked hand in hand, their well-groomed dogs trotted alongside them, and the playground was abuzz with the joy and laughter of children.

    Pizza was a welcomed break from the typical Portuguese fare we'd been trying daily and some of the best I've had on a thin, crispy crust. John and I shared one with fresh anchovy topping while our dinner mates opted for their version of the "everything" topping.

    Day 2 was a walking and sightseeing day. We've been blessed with great weather ao far. Down the hills to St. Vincent Monastery and up the steps to the clock tower for a magnificent view.    Läs mer

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  • Camino Portuguese
    1
    Dag 11–13

    TOMAR

    11 april, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    Our train ride back to Lisbon was made all the more memorable thanks to a fellow Pilgrim's recommendation to visit Tomar, a place that we would never have known about otherwise.

    Despite the effort it took to transfer our bikes on three separate train connections, it was well worth the journey. We decided to extend our stay to two nights so that we could fully explore the unique history of this place. Our enthusiastic host, Antonio, was proud to share the fascinating four-century history of his family's building. His great-grandfather operated it as a car factory and, in keeping with the theme, converted it into a cozy kitsch hostel. He graciously left us with a tour guide map of must-see sights.

    Tomar's crown jewel is the Castle of the Knights Templar, our first stop. Built-in 1160, it is the largest and best-preserved European Templar settlement. In the early 14th century, it was converted into Christ Convent (Convento de Cristo), and in 1983, it was recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage site. The castle's intact battlements and military architecture made it the most fascinating castle/ convent we'd ever visited. Too much history to abbreviate. History buffs can find more on this link.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomar_Castle?wpro…

    Nestled in the narrow streets of the old Jewish quarter is the well-preserved medieval Jewish Temple, built in 1438. It's rare because it's one of two pre-expulsion synagogues in Portugal. Worship was tolerated under the Order of the Temple, and Jews coexisted peacefully and even thrived economically until 1496, when King Manuel I ruled Portugal, and the persecution and forced conversions of Jews began.

    Our day continued as we followed Antonio's guide and climbed the 286 steps to the Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Piedade. The trek was challenging but well worth the panoramic views from the top 🥴

    We ended our day with a yet another delicious Portuguese meal and chatted with travelers from France and Germany. Despite the language barriers, we shared a common language through our smiles. The warmth and hospitality of the people of Tomar made us feel at home in this quieter gem of Portugal.    Läs mer

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  • Camino Portuguese
    Dag 10

    PORTO

    10 april, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    We parked our bikes for a 2nd day in Aveiro and hopped on a short train ride to Porto for a day...the 2nd largest city in Portugal and a popular tourist destination. The moment we arrived, we were greeted by the iconic bridges, lively streets, and historical monuments. Our first stop was the Porto Cathedral, a majestic structure with intricate details reminiscent of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque-style architecture.

    Porto's rich history dates back to the 4th century BC when it was established by the Celts and called "Cale." The Romans conquered the Iberian Penisula around 200 BC, transforming it into an influential commercial port, then the Moor invasion left their Islamic legacy on just about every aspect of culture: language, agriculture, architecture, and art; then came the Asturians, then Portugal's independence as shipbuilding grew the port in the 15th c, and so began the exploration "Age of Discovery" for the next two centuries, then Spain's king making way for Porto's golden age in the 18th century and port wine it's gold. Napolean tried to take it in the early 19th c. until the Liberal Revolution started in 1820. Fun fact: J.K. Rowling wrote Harry Potter and the Philsopher's Stone at the historical Majestic Cafe after she moved to Porto 🤓

    As we made our way through the narrow, cobbled streets, we were drawn to the charming neighborhood of Ribeira, which runs parallel to the Douro River. The area is lined with colorful townhomes, small bars, and eateries serving classic Porto fare of grilled sardines, Alheira, a smoked sausage dish, and the famous Francesinha, an open-face sandwich made with layers of ham, sausage, and steak – all smothered in melted cheese and a special tomato and beer sauce. Yumm! However, I did not try any of these and instead opted for their version of Avocado Toast.

    Feeling like true tourists, we decided to take a Rabelo cruise. A rabelo is a wooden, Viking-inspired boat historically used to transport wine and cleverly repurposed as a tour boat. Our first boat's engine failed, but the crew quickly switched us to the party Rabelo, and for the next hour, we cruised to Portuguese music under all the city's bridges to the mouth of the Atlantic Ocean and back. The scenery and the iconic bridges were even more beautiful from the river. We were grateful for the opportunity to experience such a vibrant and pretty city and learn it's history.    Läs mer

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  • Camino Portuguese
    1
    1111
    Dag 9–11

    AVEIRO

    9 april, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    The bright sunshine and warmer temps made for a promising day on the Camino. However, things took an unexpected turn when the fine gravel turned to rough rocks and ruts; the inevitable happened - a flat tire. Fortunately, there was a spare tube replacement, and John, an experienced tire-changing expert, came to the rescue.

    Despite the setback, we continued, enjoying the ever-changing landscape interposed with quaint villages and the occasional pilgrim. While climbing a steep hill, I was halted again when the chain fell off. John continued on, too far off to hear my cry for help. In the distance on the hiking trail, I could hear pilgrims whistling to get his attention. Thankfully, he heard them and made his way back. A stick, the culprit this time.

    For the next hour, we bounced our way through a gorgeous but oddly quiet trail, except for the occasional bleating of a baby goat, and joked about things happening in threes. When we arrived at the next town, I looked down, and my phone was gone! It had popped off my Quad Lock, last location, 45 minutes ago. The chances of finding it were slim to none, but we decided it was worth the effort, especially given our protection thus far. I was less than enthusiastic to retrace our route through the rough cratered hills, but it had to be where it was lost. We asked two lone pilgrims to no avail. As I turned up the path, I heard John speaking to someone and could see one of the two women pull a phone from her sack. She found it!! The same two women who whistled a few hours earlier....our Camino angels, interceded no doubt by Our Lady of Fatima! She told us about losing her phone the year before on a Camino and recalled the dreaded feeling. She was determined to find the owner in the next alberge, but there could be no chance of finding us on our biking route. After the harrowing morning, we needed a nourishment break. We stopped at the next local Churrascaria and enjoyed a hearty lunch of meat, meat, and more meat, and reflected on the day's blessings.

    One of the best things about a Camino is getting to do it YOUR way. We decided to give the bikes and our bodies a break. Aveiro was the perfect place to do so.    Läs mer

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  • Camino Portuguese
    111
    Dag 8–9

    COIMBRA

    8 april, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    On our journey from Algorge to Coimbra, we encountered a less-than-ideal day for riding. It was chilly and windy, and the rain poured intermittently, which forced us to take multiple stops along the way. These stops allowed us to meet fellow Canadian pilgrims we had previously encountered at an Albergue (camino hostel) the night before. This is one of the cool things about the Camino: the impromptu run-ins along the way and the story-swapping. We were fortunate to have discovered the Roman ruins in Conimbriga, which we may have otherwise missed.

    We decided to cut the day short and crossed the Santa Clara bridge to reach Coimbra, the third-largest city in Portugal. This time, we chose to break away from the usual albergue accommodation and stayed at Zero, a minimalist Japanese concept hotel that featured rooms made of wooden boxes. Although the rooms were small, we were glad we weren't claustrophobic. Following a quick shower, we set out to find a place to eat. We stumbled upon a hole-in-the-wall gem that offered typical Portuguese dishes.

    Afterward, we explored the city further and climbed the steep cobblestone sidewalk that led to The University of Coimbra, one of the oldest in the world, established in 1290. We were awed by its stunning architecture and the spectacular view of the Mondego River. We also had the opportunity to witness a "Praxe," a freshman initiation ritual that is akin to rushing a fraternity or sorority. It was an interesting spectacle.

    On our way back to the hotel, we decided to take the Portuguese version of the Exorcist Steps, an adventure in itself, but we made it back to our Japanese box safely. Overall, despite the challenging weather, we had a full day of memorable days filled with unexpected adventures and experiences.    Läs mer

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  • Camino Portuguese
    11
    Dag 7–8

    ALVORGE

    7 april, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Pedaling away from the town of Fátima and into the calmer countryside, I couldn't help but feel a sense of relief wash over me. Cycling can be equally exhausting for the mind, navigating the circles and crosswalks. While I can appreciate the religious significance of Fátima for devout Catholics, I have to admit that it wasn't my favorite stop. Despite the town's beautiful statues, Basilica, relics, and rituals, I found its over-commercialization disappointing.

    Our overnight stay at an old "nunnery" filled me with mixed emotions as memories of cleaning the nun's convent flooded back, a penance for my tardiness to children's mass.

    Traversing through the tranquil countryside en route to Alvorge, my thoughts drifted to the three young shepherd children who were visited by the Blessed Virgin Mary back in 1917. The significance of the secrets, prayers, and prophetic messages that were revealed to them by the "Lady of the Rosary" on six separate occasions still continues to captivate and inspire pilgrims from all corners of the world. As I breathe the fresh, sweet Portuguese air, I don't think I need to go to Fátima to experience God as the most beautiful reality of human existence.    Läs mer

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  • Camino Portuguese
    111
    Dag 6–7

    FATIMA

    6 april, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    As we continued on our journey, we opted to tread the road less traveled, forging our own "way". So far, this has rewarded us with some unforgettable experiences, and our ride from charming Óbidos to the holy city of Fatima was undoubtedly one of the highlights. I can only speak for myself, but while the rugged Atlantic coast is undeniably breathtaking and fun watching surfers dotting the shoreline in every town, my soul finds solace in the quiet simplicity of the bucolic countryside. Cycling immersed us in the natural beauty of each region, tantalizing our senses as we pedaled through the crisp breeze that carried scents of minty eucalyptus forests, tangy citrus trees, earthy olive orchards, and sweet spring flowers. It allows for a snapshot in time of farm animals grazing in the lush verdant valleys, vibrant purple wisteria in full bloom adorning a stone fence, or a worn stray cat lying on the warm cobblestone path without a care in the world. I was grateful to the Portuguese dog owners in just about every other residence we passed for containing their overly protective furry family members, making for a much safer journey. Those we did see wandering were estranged and seemingly on their own Camino. Much to John's chagrin, I picked up some animal treats. I reminded him of one of my life mottos, "I stop for animals," and the Camino is no different 😊
    As we continue on our way, I am filled with serenity and gratitude for the opportunity to experience God's hand in it all.    Läs mer

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