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Camino de Santiago

abril - maio 2024
Uma aventura indeterminada pela Lisa Leia mais
Atualmente viajando
  • 24pegadas
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  • 42dias
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  • ViajanteCamino de Santiago
    Dia 12

    I can see spain!! 🇪🇸 - Day 9

    15 de abril, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    Woke Up: Praia do Acora
    Destination: Caminha

    An afternoon of walking.

    With a decision to make. Do I take the boat at Caminha to Spain and rejoin the Coastal, or do I turn inland to the Central towards Valenca and cross the border at Tui.

    I think this will give me the best chance of being able to do the spiritual variant.

    I’m intentionally taking shorter distances now after all the foot injuries I’ve witnessed. Although I am aiming to pick up the distances once in Tui.

    I think I’ve identified all the main pressure points my feet suffer with. But there’s always more I’m sure.

    The route was mostly coastal with some road working.

    I got surprisingly emotional when seeing Spain. But perhaps not that surprising when I literally came last in all cross country / running activities at school, and here I am, literally about to cross a country after walking almost half the length of one.

    Finding my hostel I came across a church on a hill. I wondered if it was open, but no, locked. Until I heard a little voice shout out. It was a nun, who asked if I wanted a stamp. Of course I said yes.

    I also explored their cemetery. Complete with crypts. But all tombs and gravestones, all beautifully intricate and still maintained with fresh flowers despite many being decades old.

    I found the hostel. Ditched my rucksack and descended into town to see if I could make the post office before shutting. I did, just.

    I then found a restaurant to eat. While I was waiting one of mums favourite songs started playing. This was just as I was deliberating on what to do tomorrow - so she helped and endorsed the decision made.

    I also made friends with a rescue puppy (who has a home now!!) - just can’t believe she was abandoned. And talked to two other pilgrims, from America, who shared their Camino reasons (grief journey) for a while before heading back.

    Body check: feet as usual, although heel blister healing can still flare slightly after 3 hours walking time. Back is burnt, somehow. Perhaps yesterday at the cafe? (Managed to find a lovely Italian woman - also a masseuse - who put balm on for me).

    Little things/Highlights:
    O Breakfast with Julie with Pastel de Natal
    O Kindness of Italian lady
    O Puppy!!!!    Leia mais

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  • ViajanteCamino de Santiago
    Dia 13

    Quiet - Day 10

    16 de abril, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Woke Up : Caminha
    Destination : Vila do Cerveria

    Another quiet and short day today. A bit of a blip of time confusion. My phone had sync’nd with Spanish time, which meant me rushing out of the hostel.

    However I was a whole hour earlier. As the albergue was quite far from the Camino, I decided to take the train back to it. However again I was whole hour early for it. It meant I got to help a retired pilgrim couple, from New Hampshire, navigate the train. They were visiting Valenca and Tui for the day - before heading back to Caminha to take the litoral path.

    I surprised a young couple by asking them a question on the train! (Who would later wave to me, when passing me in a cafe).

    Of course I choose another albergue way up a hill out of town. But the town was pretty. And wandered a little before going up.

    People from the houses waved to me and of shouted ‘Bom Camino’. The albergue, Pilgrim Rest, was small but beautiful with a stunning garden, wind chimes, fruit trees and an allotment. Of which the food for the evening would be picked from.

    Michaela, knowing I couldn’t have much gluten before arriving, had prepared a delicious broccoli and cheese quinoa dish, salad and sorbet for the meal.

    There was only a handful of other pilgrims. 2 retired guys, including Baz. From Australia. He was taking his time getting to Santiago, and then Finisterre, to throw a rock for his little girl who died at 4 months but would be 21 this month.

    Dan from Brazil, then NY, who’d quit his finance career against advice of family and friends and has now walked the French Way, and is continuing on to Porto or Lisbon. He hasn’t decided yet.

    And then a retired woman, Christine, who came today to start the Camino tomorrow.

    After tea, I watched the sunset and listened to the wind chimes. I chatted a little more to Baz about his backstory and life as is the way on the Camino. And then we were all tucked up in Bed by 9 ready for an early checkout of 8am.

    Body Check: still got my sunburnt socks! No hope of blending this apparently to my other skin tone. Despite a week in shorts! Oh well. Slight arch pain. No more blisters for now.

    Little things/highlights:
    O Acting like kids as grown adults getting ready for bed.
    O Eating fresh food outside.    Leia mais

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  • ViajanteCamino de Santiago
    Dia 14

    The Road Less Travelled… Day 11

    17 de abril, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Woke up: Pilgrim Rest, Vila do Cerveira
    Destination: Almoreda Medeavel, Pedro Sao Torres

    Early breakfast with our lil crew. Just coffee for me but it was nice and cosy.

    I recommended casa do sardao to Dan. It was then he asked if I knew a Bulgarian girl, called Lora. Apparently he’d seen her yesterday, and of course she was raving about it. Love the Camino and its synchronicity.

    Speaking of Julie is back on the Camino. She left me a voice note to say she’s started again, and how she was telling someone on the coastal path about her feet and hospital, and they responded whether it was Lisa that took you? It just happened to be the couple I helped with the train the day before.

    I left the Albergue last. Quite common for me. I’m waking up the earliest I have in years and I’m still the latest out the door. I prefer it though. Less danger of packing and forgetting something.

    I wandered into town. Found a cheap cafe for breakfast, my usual pasta de natal and espresso. And wrote my postcards. I then took them to the post office on my way out of town.

    I spotted a cemetery on the way out which I wandered a while. Still amazed by the intricacy and individuality of all, and how well maintained they all are.

    I then saw the road bridge, which links to Spain, just 300m away. So decided to have a quick cheeky step over into Spain. I set up my phone to take a lil video and when no one was watching I did a lil celebrating dance, but a car was coming behind me a honked and cheered me on, waving. I thanked them, and then perhaps, because of the kindness in strangers ‘seeing’ and understanding my achievement and choosing to celebrate it when I’m here alone, just made me cry.

    It was quite the rollercoaster of emotions.

    From this I collected myself and chose to do what Lora recommended and not take the road route, but river route. And I’m so glad she did. It was such a lovely stretch. I stopped for a juice by the river and saw so many fish and a huuggge dragonfly.

    I passed what seems liked hundreds of beautiful wild meadows. Old men chatting and fishing stopped to wish me Bom Camino. As well as a cyclist to tell me to ‘stay strong’. I then came made my way back to the official Camino, to walk into Pedro Sao de Torres.

    Over a medieval bridge, and Roman aqueduct.

    So taking the road less travelled really is more beautiful sometime.

    Until I arrived at the albergue. I knew I wanted to stay here after reading the reviews of how well the hosts know the Camino and look after pilgrims. As the Camino is as much about the people and places as the walking for me, this was on my must stay Camino bucket list. And I’m so glad I did.

    I shared with Anna, the host, why I was here. And she said despite doing the Camino so many times she’s never thought to do it ‘with’ her mum as she never saw the albergue they’ve created.

    Anna told me about how the place sits on the old Roman road the pilgrims would have taken as one of the most direct route. And how the Portuguese coastal has been authenticated as an original pilgrim route.

    And how the litoral on from Caminha is a tourist route created in and after Covid. The same for the spiritual variant. It’s nothing to do with the Camino, historically it is more to do with the Napoleonic Wars.

    This changed things for me. As much as it’s my Camino, and it can be what I need it to be. I love the idea of literally walking history and for the spiritual significance I want to stay as close to the traditional Camino going forward. So, as of now, I am going to stay as close to the central route back as possible.

    Anna also went on to tell me where to find the Knights Templar marks at Santiago and along the way to mark the rebirth and transformation. And for them their symbol for the Albergue is a rooster, signifying a new Dawn for all pilgrims arriving and then leaving their place.

    This made me cry, also. Because I’m an emotional mess apparently.

    The evening finished with a pilgrim meal for all. Unfortunately I couldn’t participate as much as I’d of liked because most of the residents were German. But I still chatted, made them laugh with some of my stories so far as well as getting excited when I understood Vai Vassa as Holy Water of all things.

    And then an evening of catching up on my journal.

    Body Check: just super knotty hair!!!

    Highlights/Little things:
    O Breakfast by Candlelight
    O A cold pool to soak my muscles in    Leia mais

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  • ViajanteCamino de Santiago
    Dia 15

    Tallyho…Day 12

    18 de abril, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    To the city…

    An early breakfast at 7.30! And a quick chat/help again with a young pilgrim, Misa, from Norway whose feet weren’t good. Tendonitis.

    She set off to get the boat taxi. And I set off to Valenca.

    A relatively short walk in the morning. I made it in for 11am.

    Headed straight to the walled city.

    Such an incredible experience as there’s cars that pass through and the tunnels need traffic lights for pedestrians and cars as only one can go at once.

    I walked around and touristed. And then Misa came to meet me, before she attempted to walk to Tui. Which she did. We sat on the grass battlements for a while, and then went back in. Letting her use my pole for the ascent in.

    Another pilgrim, who will now be walking slightly and then taxing the rest of the days.

    I do feel lucky that as slow as I maybe going or at least shorter distances. I’m still going. And I need to remember that when I feel frustrated when seeing other folks go longer distances.

    My pace is my pace and I think 10 miles is my main limit in this weather, prior to getting blisters or sunstroke.

    I had a quick snack of juice and pasta de natal of course. And headed to check-in.

    Great hostel! And just amazing to stay in the actual fortified city.

    And showered and then headed out for the evening. I joined a Canadian couple and Australian at the table next to me for a while, then ate my omelette tea. And toasted me and mum for getting halfway.

    I then went with to the Western facing battlements for sunset with Hubba before returning to hostel and to bed.    Leia mais

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  • ViajanteCamino de Santiago
    Dia 16

    Meltdown - Day 13

    19 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Woke up: Hostel Bulwark, Valenca
    Destination: Os Eidos

    I woke up at 7:30 and everyone had left!!

    I felt mega late. It took me a while to repack in the morning but I made my way out with the intention of eating breakfast on the way and exploring a little more of Valenca and Tui on the way .

    Which I did. Coffee and pasta de natal at the restaurant last night, where I got a stamp! Almost left my pole again!

    Visited the Knights Templar Church that Anna told me about. And stood in the corner while tourists came in and out. I just soaked in the space. It did feel different and after a while I did get emotional. That place IS special.

    Opposite was quirky antiques store, with a lovely lil chap, who gave me prices lower than whatever it was priced which was somewhat refreshing. We then had a conversation outside about the church and the Camino. He told me his best chance now is to drive it, but they frown on that.

    The way out of the fort was something special. It was giving Lord of the Rings vibes. And I loved it.

    Got a lil lost on the way out. And ended up on a battlement again, but soon figured it out.

    Got accosted by an American man asking if there was anything up there, and I think I replied with ‘yeah, everything, once in a lifetime thing’ and he and his companions had so many questions about the Camino.

    After living and breathing the Camino for so many days. You forget that some people just don’t know anything about it. They asked my name, thanked me and off I popped to the bridge to officially walk into Spain.

    Don’t remember the exact time as I was bricking it! The footpath bridge was again, long and felt like it was fixed with sellotape. So concentrated on breathing until I reached the otherside.

    I got a glimpse of Tui castle/Catherdral and hoped the Camino would take me passed. Despite it being on a hill. And it did! And the hill was easier than I thought - whether my body is stronger or hills are more gradual - it wasn’t too much of a slog. And unfortunately it wasn’t open. But my word is it impressive?!

    I had a lil chat with a man who took my photo at the doors which I super appreciated. And I also took a photo of three German friends who took a photo of me.

    I then wished to find a lil cafe for lunch on the way out of Tui. But apparently there was none. But there was a lovely stretch of old churches and woodland river walks with clearly old Roman structures still in place.

    But I did need to stop at some point and cafes that Google said were there weren’t. So when I came to the main road crossing I walked 100 metres or so back to a lil roadway cafe. That was NOT a friendly experience. So I just downed a juice and got a water to go! Quickly.

    After this the road stretch was long and seemingly never ending! And that’s when my mental power was properly first challenged. The sun, the heat, my brain. My legs. All got too much and of course I start beating myself up, knowing that actually I’m doing such comparatively shorter distances now.

    But at least the last section was mostly woodland and with a Roman bridge!

    And finally to Casa Alternativo. Last one here means I’m on the top bunk for the first time. But everyone was a lot more welcoming. Again, the majority Germans.

    Pilgrim dinner was amazing. I had a rice and fish fished cooked especially for me. Played with the dogs, dipped my feet in the cold pool. And after food Julia, came to visit me with her aunt from Vigo. She had asked if I needed anything. I said cotton wool and maybe cough sweets. She seemingly bought a whole pharmacy, bless her. But it was soooo good to see her and her love for the Camino was evident. I know she got emotional when I was talking about my experiences. And her aunt informed the conversations with her knowledge from living in Santiago.

    Oh and I also realised for the whole of today. I’m still on Portugal time. So weird for it now to be light at 9pm in a day.

    But sleep is needed as tomorrow apparently we’re getting woken up by music…

    That’s new.

    Body check: arm / back pack bruises make me look a bit drug addict-y.

    Little things / highlights;
    O strangers doing their best to take photos of you (Lorenzo / Catherdral man)
    O motivational signs when you need them
    O friendly welcome signs when you need them
    O pilgrims putting their mobile lights on so you can reach your top bunk
    O friends that bring you supplies in the middle of no where    Leia mais

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  • ViajanteCamino de Santiago
    Dia 17

    A day - Day 13

    20 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Woke Up: Casa Alternativo
    Destination: O Porrino

    As promised we were woke at 7, but not with any music, dramatic opera. It was as if we were preparing for war.

    I guess in someways we are. Either we are body or mind, or in my case both.

    Breakfast was by sunrise outside, lit by candles. Big fan of breakfasts by candlelight. Enables a slower mindset for the day.

    I couldn’t eat the breakfast - was bread! But I had decided on a late one when I got to O Porrino.

    With my arrival times lately being at least 90 minutes over the eta. I decided on getting just to o porrino today, with the intention of getting to Redondela tomorrow. A classic stage.

    However leaving at 8am, I underestimated how long it would take me to get to the city. Meaning I got to the town at 10:30.

    And I’ve booked my accommodation so there’s no going on. But it’s okay. I could do with an afternoon of nothing - including sightseeing.

    And there’s not much to do here! And I could do with doing some washing - repacking etc.

    Did feel the loneliness again, setting off. I was the second to leave. The two Brazillian gentleman left first. Then me, then 4 germans and 1 Dutch who met on the Camino’s and are now walking together left after me.

    I thought I’d made a good pace despite the first steep climb back to the riverside Camino. - And I bumped into a Spanish gentleman walking to Fatima still with a head torch on who wanted me to take a picture for him - But they’d caught me up within the first 45 minutes, but they had brought Otto the dog from the albergue for a walk to O Porrino. So I walked with them for a while, but it was clear I couldn’t match their pace so I slunk to the back.

    It felt a bit crappy for a while. But I remembered I belong to the Camino, right now, not people. And of course the lessons I’ve been telling myself for years now, that it’s only my pace that matters and the fact I’m still going.

    Yes I miss my original Camino family. But I also needed the challenge of no one. Just me and my actual brain. And body. And I’ve got it!

    I knew it was going to be tough so I don’t know when I am surprised exactly.

    But as I’m having all these thoughts coming into O Porrino, Louisa calls me, checking in. She’s up ahead in Pontevedra, and who has also broken away from the group she was walking with.

    I find a brunch spot! And wait there till the albergue opens. I want to get there early to bag the bottom bunk, not a fan of the top ones.

    I do. And I manage to get the first laundry too which I share with the next Pilgrim, Victoria 🇩🇪. We exchange feet horror stories and take care of our feet. Hang our clothes, eat trail mix before heading out for some food. We headed only towards a lil tiny kebab place, nearby. But I felt lightheaded and shakey as soon as I got there. Possibly low blood pressure, possible just tired. But it made me mild panic - so I took my food to go.

    Although so close to the end now, I’m more dubious of my food. And my appetite is lower, when worrying if it’s okay to eat. Never had an issue before, but then I’ve never had to keep my body right for multiple days hiking on the trot.

    Grainne 🇮🇪 messages me to say that she got super ill between Caldas de Reis and Padron. And that she needed a doctor to come to the hotel, to inject her to stop her vomiting! She doesn’t know what caused it but told me to be weary of that stretch, to keep out of the sun etc. and careful of what I’m eating/drinking. She’s also not going to make the final day to Santiago now, she will take a bus. This knowledge. - I think - gives me psychosomatic symptoms of illness.

    Anyways, I feel a little better back at the hostel. And aiming for an early night.

    So today is just a day.

    PS: Lora cut her Camino short due to an illness, and flies home today.

    Body check - as per usual
    Highlights/Small things:
    O Call from Louisa
    O Finding the immediate steep hill much better than i thought
    O walking with Otto for a lil while - dog    Leia mais

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  • ViajanteCamino de Santiago
    Dia 18

    The Little Pilgrim that Could… Day 14

    21 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Exactly 2 weeks on the Camino today.

    Feels so much longer than that. And I’m back to the longer distances, just. 18km seems to be my limit before getting pain/blisters etc.

    So I’m trying to keep to that.

    I woke up early. And as planned knowing it was a min 4 hour work my plan was to be out by 8am with the hope of getting to Redondela at least by early afternoon.

    I slept well (ish). Which I think is standard when in a dorm.

    And I set off alone. Even though I knew Victoria was heading to the same albergue.

    I was a little weary and had apprehension when starting. I was too in my head about what could go on after now realising only 2 people I’ve walked with on the Camino have actually made it to Santiago.

    I guess I feel like I’m waiting for my turn. What will it be? And will it happen while I’m walking?

    It was quiet on the city roads while I started, but after a while Pilgrims just seemed to join from all roads, assuming leaving their own albergues.

    But there were so many. Not once today was there not a pilgrim in front or behind me. In fact I felt like I was on one huge perpetual school trip.

    I understand now what people mean, when you get down to the last 100km - the distance needed to gain the Compostela - and how busy it actually gets.

    Despite missing the peace of the Camino, their presence was welcomed and I began feeling more relaxed. The trepidation didn’t dissipate though, and I just had to use the mantra ‘trust the Camino’ over and over again.

    A fight with my mind was very much ongoing today.

    But then also with my body. There were hills today. And I just kept taking steps. I was tempted with cafes etc but I wanted to head down and get as far in as possible while it was both cool and I had motivation.

    I even over took with pace.

    But then much much older where overtaking me, maybe they started in Tui though - least that’s what I’m telling myself.

    I walked again alone for all of it. My mind desperately wanted distraction. And kept feeling for the phone to see distance left, or re making plans for the days ahead.

    The joy has departed somewhat. And now it’s just mentally and physical draining. 5-6 days left if I take central and that feels like a month!

    There was kindness and lil moments of joy though.

    A man selling Camino wears up on the heights, stamped my credential, but also helped me put my rucksack back on. Despite me not buying anything he clearly just wanted to help.

    A quick stop to buy a bottle of water, led to a piece of a frittata omelette. And it was the best prince I’d ever eaten - whether it was the recipes or the calories needed - it was good!

    A cute picture stop. Thanks to other pilgrims who are more than happy to take a picture, noting I’m alone.

    A pistachio brunch, pancakes was found. After I stopped at the first place in Redondela, and then a bunch of school kids sat down. I thought it best I move on to get served and so glad I did! Coffee, natural orange juice and pancakes!!! Amazing!!!

    A pilgrim vending machine!

    A lil old man was playing music out of his apartment on the streets, and so I danced, and he laughed and danced too and wished me an Buen Camino!

    A lil old church was found with a wonderful stamp!

    And this private hostel is simply beautiful. Rustic with so much charm. And I’ve had some lovely lil conversations with guests here.

    Didn’t go to the local bar for food. Opted for food from here, but I didn’t really trust it so didn’t eat much of it. But did collect protein bars for tomorrow.

    So in all, I did a hard thing.

    On my own I battled my nerves and carried on with the thing. And also my legs that wanted to give up at least 7 times.

    What will tomorrow bring? And that’s the beauty of the Camino, something completely new. People, places and experiences.    Leia mais

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  • ViajanteCamino de Santiago
    Dia 19

    Up! - Day 15

    22 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I was nervous about today.

    The chatter you hear is that there is a lot of an ups and downs. But with everything being relative, how difficult is it?

    I was out again for 8. Starting out with Victoria. Our pace was relatively strong. And we overtook a few.

    On the way out we stopped as we noticed three caterpillars hanging down off some trees. Assuming to start the process of becoming caterpillars.

    The imagery wasn’t lost of me. The symbol of transformation while walking this spiritual path. Do I feel different? I’m not sure whether I’ll know for sure till I’m back, but lessons haven’t certainly been learnt. And perhaps lies I’ve told myself revealed.

    A km or so out. We stopped for a coffee, inviting the German woman we were just in front of to join us. And the Latvian also joined us a little later. It was here I realised how many pilgrims were now on the trail, at least 60-70 people must have passed us while taking a 20minute breakfast.

    I let her and Victoria go ahead and I’ll catch them up. I didn’t want to keep pace, especially on a day of hills. I never saw them again.

    But I did bond with a woman, Sandra 🇪🇸/ 🇵🇹, while getting up the first main steep section. I didn’t think we’d walk much further together as she didn’t know a word of English. But we managed to converse in portugues and she was such an excited creature, at everything. Every flowers, view, animal, mural, person…

    She was a joy to be around. And she loved taking pictures, it became a joke that she was my Camino director!

    We had the same ish pace, or at least hers was a very comfortable one for me. And so we walked on together, chatting in Portuguese. And taking the hills as they come, well we complained, but we did it.

    The hills were tough. I can’t quite remember doing an incline as steep as that which we did yesterday. And it wasn’t just one time. I believe a minimum of three times, we had to ascend.

    Yet the trail was one of the most beautiful for sure. The forest trails were stunning.

    We had a quick lunch break. I got a natural orange juice. Sandra wasn’t happy about learning we had another 2 hours to go at least.

    The men I met yesterday recognised me and shouted their hellos.

    After a popular post in the Camino Portuguese FB group, about a kind man who sells Camino wares, close ish to Pontevedra, took a pilgrim back to an albergue when learning the closest was still some 10km away. I looked out for him, and ended buying a necklace. Hoping it reminds me I can do difficult things.

    There was another complementary route choice or take original. Lesley told me to take the left (complementary) and it wasn’t much a choice considering the hot sun. Didn’t stop Sandra complaining of just how much she felt everyone was lying of how much there was left to go till Pontevedra.

    But finally we cleared the forest/riverside walk and entered the city. We had to go under a city bridge, where I was fascinated by a rat swimming. Sandra was less fascinated and more scared and ran ahead.

    Walking into the city together I realised I was talking porrtugues for at least 5 hours. Which was suprising, I hadn’t realised I could do that. Although tragedy, I realised my back zip on ruck sack hand not been closed properly and my purse had slipped out. Caught that, thankfully. But gave Sandra my stick while I re-hitched up my rucksack. But she pressed on it and bent and broke it.

    So long pole. You served me well.

    We split up, swapping contact details. And then I headed into the city to where I’m staying.

    I chat with a Belarus Peregrina 🇧🇾 , living in Russia, although she brought up very quickly how she doesn’t like living there and how having to travel to here due to her being Belarus meant travelling for 2 days.

    We then notice and visit the sanctuary of the pilgrims together, getting a stamp, and learning of the pilgrim mass at 7:30. We agree to go back then. I also bump into Laura, who I met the day before when entering a small church. She was wondering about staying or walking on to Combarro.

    I told her to stay. She laughed and said maybe I was her sign. As I got my two credentials stamped I explained to her why and she thanked me for sharing that. Laura then followed me to my lodgings, and if there was space, she would stay.

    They was a room and because she turned up with me they gave it to her for less.

    We showered, changed. Laura went on ahead. I’m decided if I wasn’t doing the spiritual route, I would take a rest day in Pontevedra instead. As I had hoped to reach it much earlier to visit the historic and pilgrim specific sites, but we arrived just a little after 4.

    I reached the sanctuary a little before. But on the way saw a shop that Grainne had recommended, (tiger tiger situation) and managed to find myself a collapsible walking stick. Not a proper hiking one, but something to test out at least.

    I got the tail end of the normal mass. Sandra arrived and we sat three rows from the front. At half 7 many more pilgrims arrived. I saw the NY lady, the 2 seperate German ladies from the Camino I’ve seen over past 2 days.

    The Camino village had returned somewhat.

    The mass and pilgrim blessing was special. And after I returned from my seat, I genuinely prayed. I felt caught in the spirit of the pilgrims before me and the pilgrims yet to come. And the emotions, questions and hope, all were walking with. And tears formed. I locked eyes with Laura and she nodded her support in the moment.

    Afterwards, Laura and I headed to a restaurant recommended by our host, Bar Estrella. And we invited a US peregrino to join us. For the first time on the trip, I drank wine. We shared some delicious tapas. And I had again the chance to talk about my mum. I also managed to shock Laura by saying I’d visited her state, Montana, and how that again links back to my mum and her encouraging me to travel to Brazil, where of course I’d meet Maggie.

    John thanked us at least 4 times for inviting him, saying it was a highlight for him. Apparently so far not many folks had invited him for dinner - but then he hasn’t been staying in albergues. Which I’m sure makes a difference. We then walked back against the moonlit streets of Pontevedra.

    For a day I was dreading. And even kept my earphones out for the first time thinking I may need them to push through. It ended up being such a special day, a hard day, but special and a true testament to the Camino’s spirit. Never knowing what lies ahead, just taking the first step and being open to what comes…

    And Laura was right. It’s odd how despite all the pilgrims you do end up bumping into the few select ones you’ve connected with.

    Body Check: heat rash on back - cough is a little worse - arches on feet, hurting - body stiffness

    Highlights:
    O no timed showers
    O Pilgrim Mass    Leia mais

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  • ViajanteCamino de Santiago
    Dia 20

    Old Town - Day 16

    23 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    A lie in of 8am.

    How things change.

    Today was a gift to myself to explore the historic side to the Camino. And Pontevedra is the second most important city after Santiago in Spain.

    The Sanctuary of Apparitions was a road of from where I was staying. So I headed here and I was greeted by a nun. Who tried talking to me in Spanish, I didn’t receive it all. But I went into the chapel and sat alone, and then climbed the stairs to the second floor for where the historical apparitions took place.

    There I sat/kneeled and had quiet contemplation for a while. Not fussed about who came in while my eyes were closed.

    After this I went to the Basilica. A beautiful church. And was there for when they opened the massive front doors.

    I sat in front of a beautiful panelled wall by myself and again.m sat quietly.

    I wandered to get my stamp. Quickly realising I would like one from the sanctuary of apparitions, I returned to get one too.

    I then walked further up to the Old Town. Grabbed, hopefully, a last pack of blisters blasters (which I swear have a premium on due to pilgrims).

    Little ice-cream for exploring. And then lunch, a cute place, Momo Fucker, that does burger etc - but the name was better than the food.

    I headed to the Franscian monastery but this was closed. But I did sit a while, people watching.

    Ok the way home a Czech 🇨🇿 female and her partner called out to me noticing my water shoes and asked if I was walking in them. I said no but we had an interesting conversation with Ross 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 knowing precisely where I came from based on my accent - which was a first.

    We decided to rejoin up for dinner. Where it was Ross’s birthday and went to the same place I went to the night before. And shared tapas.

    We then headed off respectively for an early night with both of us having 21kms ahead of us the next day.

    Little did I know how important these two were to become…    Leia mais

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  • ViajanteCamino de Santiago
    Dia 21

    Broken - Day 17

    24 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Out the door for 8.

    Not as early as I had hoped due to not sleeping well.

    But out the door straight on to the Camino.

    Feeling a slight pain in my left foot and calf pain in right leg.

    Felt a bit frustrated without my pole now.

    And dozens and dozens of pilgrims are overtaking me. This is fine. I know I have the time. Plus most are walking without rucksacks and started 2 days ago.

    The walk is relatively quite flat which is helpful, but I do start to need to the toilet. Holding out hope for a cafe soon.

    The pain is growing in my foot.

    The couple from yesterday catch up with me. I tell them about my foot and they lend me their poles. I tell them to go on ahead and I will give them the poles back on Caldas but they remain with me.

    I skid slightly on a rock and it jars my foot and a sharp pain happens. And then it feels as if there’s a crackle sensation happening in my foot and the pain worsens.

    Natalie tells me she has something for the pain. And we stop and use gel and take ibuprofen.

    I move on. They find friends from day before I walk on. But Ross comes back to say they will stop at a cafe in less than a KM. And to find them there.

    I do. But the pain is more. And from here I may not get another chance to get help. I check Uber. Nothing. I ring two taxis - they put their phone down on me without Spanish.

    So I ask at the cafe. They are so helpful. They give me ice and ring a taxi for me. They come collect me and take my bag for me. And the driver is a female who knows Portuguese 🙏🏼

    A Danish man also consoles me. A 100km is the pilgrimage and you’ve already done plus 200km. Camino is just as much about acceptance than the challenge.

    Words I need to hear as I cry for the second time.

    I arrive at my albergue. I am welcomed with a beautiful stamp, a sangria and a donation of poles from past pilgrims.

    I also am given ice packs for my feet. And when telling her I’m worried about my cough keeping people awake she just says she will move me to a different room. A dorm with no one in. Not only this she gets me sports tape and looks up a tutorial on you tube to dress my foot.

    Meanwhile Ross and Natalie have arrived and have asked if I need anything. I say a brace and sports tape. They FaceTime me from intersport and a pharmacy with options.

    And then meet me opposite the albergue. I grab them an ice cream as thanks - even though they reiterate the Camino is about precisely this.

    They also gift me cooling gel and an ankle brace.

    I hobble to find some tea. But also still majorly nervous and cautious of eating made food I eat a few mouthfuls and nothing more.

    Tomorrow I will likely stay to rest the foot . Unless a miracle happens overnight…    Leia mais

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