Nepal
Eastern Region

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    • Day 67

      27e jour : the last one

      April 21, 2023 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Bien malade pendant la nuit, ça ressemble fortement à une intoxication alimentaire 😬
      Pas génial pour finir ce beau séjour mais c'est comme ça...
      Heureusement que le reste de la journée c'est super bien déroulé !

      Tout d'abord ça a été le moment de dire au revoir à mes 3 compagnons de routes français. Eux continuant en direction de Jiri et moi allant à Phaphlu, nous routes se sont séparées.

      Ensuite, j'ai terminé tranquillement cette dernière étape. C'était principalement de la piste, donc les kilomètres ont vite défilé.
      Ce qui m'a permis d'arriver autour de midi à Phaphlu.
      J'ai choisi la même lodge que celle où nous étions allés pour notre premier soir.
      Et je me suis fait un vrai petit festin, le midi comme le soir !

      Le trek c'est fini, c'est l'heure d'en profiter et de se faire plaisir niveau culinaire 😍
      Le repas du midi a donc été composé d'une soupe, accompagnée d'un wrap et de frites.
      J'ai ensuite passé tout l'aprèm vautré dans mon lit en sirotant du chocolat chaud.
      Et le soir, j'ai pris de nouveau une soupe avec une omelette et du tibétain bread.
      Autant dire que j'ai bien mangé 😁.

      Demain, c'est le grand retour à Katmandou et les reteouvailles avec Léo. Pour ça il va falloir subir les 13h de transport sur les routes Népalaises...
      Avec l'aide de ma lodge, j'ai pu réserver un bus. C'est moins cher qu'une jeep, et j'en ai eu de meilleurs retours. Le départ est à 4h, le réveil va piquer...
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    • Day 3

      2. Phakding to Namche Bazzarr

      May 5, 2023 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ -1 °C

      We woke up early 5.45am to get an early start as the best weather is in morning and early afternoon. It was going to be a long day upto Namche Bazzarr, neither me or Grace slept very well as we were both excited to start the trek. We befriended a lovely dog called (Garfield) who followed us for a few KM, sorry Maggie😂. It was a beautiful day and the further along the trail we went the more scenic it got. We crossed many suspension bridges but the highlight was the Tenzing Hillary suspension bridge, which is the world's highest suspension bridge, 250mtrs above the rushing river below, this was a real highlight. The trail was very steep upto Namche, but neither me or Grace were struggling which shows all those tedious gym sessions have really paid off.
      We bumped into the American couple and the French couple from the previous couple of days which was nice. The trail was riddled with Donkeys, yaks and yak hybrids (half cow, half Yak). The further along the trail the mountains started to make an appearance and they were breathtaking, we can't put into worlds how amazing they were. This included a glimpse of Mt Everest itself, it was incredible and completely surreal. Half way up the steep climb (1000mtrs today) we heard this huge rumble, sounded like thunder and big crash noises. Our guide told us that it's an avalanche happening rather close. This was really cool and the noise was unreal.
      We carried on trekking up the steep hill and suddenly Namche made an appearance, it is a huge town carved into a mountain, with schools, shops & hospitals and home with a population of around 2000. We walked up and everything felt electric, we had such a sense of achievement as apparently this was a hard day within the trek, due to the climb and jump in altitude.
      Once settled into our hotel (with an amazing view)we had a much needed sugar kick and headed down into town to have a mooch about, the shops were cool with artists and the most amazing mountain paintings (as they are rather poor they cannot photograph) so paintings were done on mountain tops and took days if not weeks to complete due to trekking high and dodging the ever changing weather in the Himalayas so they could paint from sight.
      Some local children took a huge interest in Grace and her Coca cola and ended up following us around in hand, which was adorable. They were 4 & 6 and spoke English fluently! We are both happy that we aren't experiencing any altitude sickness symptoms yet, drinking 4 litres of water is certainly helping.
      We are about to have some dinner and head back to town for a walk around at night and then an early night to catch up on some much needed sleep. Was a truly incredible day!! Big shouts to our Ngwang Gombu Sherpa he is making this trip really special!
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    • Day 9

      8. Leboche to Gorak Shep to EBC!!

      May 11, 2023 in Nepal ⋅ ❄️ -17 °C

      This morning it was a 6 o'clock start, which was rough after a 24km Route the previous day, which was extremely difficult.
      However we woke with a spring in our step as today we would be visiting Everest Base Camp. We had a 3 hour walk up the Khumbu Glacier to Gorak Shep, which was slow due to the popularity of the route to EBC. A fairly mellow walk with only a few hills today which our legs were grateful for and seeing glimpses of Base Camp and the Khumbu Ice fall spurred us on.
      We got to Gorak Shep (roughest place so far) which was 5200mtrs and had some lunch. We then set off for Everest Base Camp 5364mtrs which was super exciting. As we were walking we were having glimpses of Everest (real name - Chomalungma, bloody brits swooping in and changing the actual name). As we arrived at base camp, it was extremely busy with over 150 different teams as it was Summit Season, they only have a small gap in May when it's possible due to the weather. There was huge ice peices and the Khumbu Ice fall was extremely intimidating (we were told by Phure during April and May over 8 people die attempting to get to Camp 1, via avalanches or falling into crevasses). We had a few photos by the big rock with EBC which was exciting to finally be here and a must do. It was not as messy as we had been told and all the tents seemed strategically placed and tidy. We spent about an hour at Base Camp walking pretty close to the Ice Fall, you couldn't actually see Everest at the camp but we had some good views on the way. We left to hike back along the Glacier to Gorak Shep and had about an hour and a half before we had to Hike another mountain called Kala Patthar 5535 mtrs, to watch the sunset across Chomalungma (Everest) we climbed to about 5400mtrs and left Gorak Shep at 4.00pm. Unfortunately our guide completely messed up the time as Sunset wasn't until 6.50 pm which was a very long wait at - 10 to 15 degrees. Grace lasted about 2 hours, and then had to go down, I was very jealous she was going to get warm as it was bloody freezing. Our water bottles had frozen and then it seemed to take forever for the sun to go down. However it hit about 6.40pm and Everest literally glowed the brightest golden colour, it was so special and definitely worth the 3 hour sub temperature wait. We took some pictures and then ran back to the tea house to warm up. What an experience and sights I will never forget.
      We had some dinner and neither me or Grace could eat as being at 5200mtrs for a long period of time was making us feel abit wierd. We went to sleep and surprisingly slept really well both having a solid 9 hours.
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    • Day 10

      9. Gorak Shep to Zonglha

      May 12, 2023 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ -3 °C

      Today we were pleased to leave Gorak Shep, we found the altitude quite difficult, headaches and lack of appetite hit us hard. The toilets were something from nightmares too.
      Anyways, we had a bit of a lie in this morning and had breakfast at 0630, ready for hiking at 7.
      The hike today was so much more chill, we walked mainly downhill for 3 hours back to Leboche for some lunch-which we really appreciated as we couldn't face food yesterday.
      After Leboche, we walked a further 4 hours to Zhongla, which was a mixture of up and downhill.
      Along the way, we saw a beautiful bright blue bird and some really cute snow partridges.
      After a final push uphill we finally made it to our teahouse in Zhongla, which is just wonderful-especially compared to Gorak Shep yesterday. James had a hot chocolate and I had masala tea (my new fave, like chai tea but better) when we arrived.
      We also treated ourselves to a bowl of warm water for a wash - it felt like luxury 😂.
      Had a lovely evening sat by the fire with a lovely group of people just chatting.
      Up tomorrow for 5. 30, ready to tackle pass two of three, the Chola Pass!
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    • Day 12

      11. Thagnak to Gokyo over Glacier

      May 14, 2023 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ -4 °C

      Today was our 2nd rest day, we had a lovely lie in till 7.30 am but James woke up with a very stiff neck after sleeping funny on it. We had a lovely breakfast, probably the best so far. Only a 3 hour hike today but felt much longer as we set off across the Ngozumpa Glacier, which is extremely active in movement. It took us about 2 and half hours to cross and all we could hear was rock fall everywhere. We really had to keep concentration as the route across the glacier is ever changing. We stopped at a pool of water and watched in amazement how many rocks were constantly falling in, the glacier is melting and this causes the rockfall. It was over 1 mile wide and when we finally reached the other side we had a near vertical assent to get out, we really had to move quickly as this was a severe danger zone for rockfall and you could hear rocks falling everywhere in front and behind. We finally got to the top and were greeted by Gokyo Lake, a beautiful sacred lake which was the bluest of blue. Gokyo 4750mtrs is stunning, and probably one of the nicest / cleanest places we have visited on the trek. We had some dinner and wrote down some funny facts to publish once the trek is done. An early night as tomorrow we set off for our final pass, the Renjo La Pass, 5345 mtrs, we are both looking forward to ending our Diamox after the assent as its gives us tingly face, hands and feet aswell as needing a wee frequently. We are both looking forward to breathing normally aswell and each day after tomorrow will get easier as we descend nearly 1000mtrs each day.Read more

    • Day 13

      12. Rest day at Gokyo

      May 15, 2023 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ -4 °C

      Last night , James and I made the decision to spend another night at Gokyo , the view of the lake is just stunning and our lodge is so comfortable . We appreciate the consequence is having a very long three days at the end of the trek , but we think it will be worth it .
      This morning, we walked most of the way up Gokyo Ri , in the hope to see a beautiful view of the Gokyo lakes , unfortunately about 100 metres down from the summit , the cloud really started to block the view .
      We sat down for a while , with a hope that the cloud will clear , but it didn't.
      Bearing in mind that we have a really tough day tomorrow , we decided to go back down and typically by the time we managed to reach the bottom, the sky had cleared .
      We ordered an early lunch and chilled for a bit . We linked up with some friends for the rest of the afternoon and had a look around Gokyo , sitting in a cosy bakery for a couple of hours .
      James and I sorted our rooms out , ready for our early start tomorrow and just about to have some supper .
      Breakfast at 0500 tomorrow , so we are walking for 0530 . The last pass to go , whooo !!
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    • Day 16

      15. Namche Bazzarr to Lukla, Final Day!

      May 18, 2023 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

      Today was our last hike day 22km back to Lukla ready for our flight back early on the 19th. We left Sherpa Village in Namche Bazzarr, we brought some prayer flags for the van before leaving and headed out of town. On the outskirts of town was a rubbish pickup point, we had learnt that although trekkers coming to the region brings in alot of money, it also has negative effects from the amount of rubbish which the area accumulates from the additional influx of people for 6 months a year. We carried down 5kg of rubbish to Lukla drop off to assist with this problem, it was sad to discover that not many people decide to help, so we carried as much as we could. We walked down the Khumbu valley, crossing all the wire bridges, it seemed strange to get so far so quickly as it took a couple of days to come up initially, made such a difference walking downhill and every breath getting more oxygenated.
      We stopped for lunch half way and it was the best we had so far, machine coffee which was the best thing ever! Along the way we bumped into friends we had made on the trip.
      We had a huge uphill stint for the last few km to Lukla, the moment we crossed the finish line hand in hand was a roller coaster of emotions. We had made it, 122 miles in 14 days, we had crossed 6 peaks over 5000mtrs, we had been to Everest base camp, we had broken out of our comfort blanket and survived over a week at 5000mtrs. We had pushed ourselves to new heights of mental and physical endurance. We had completed the hardest trek in the Himalayas, 5 days quicker than the recommended time and the best thing was we had done it together as a team. What a feeling, by far our biggest accomplishment to date.
      Ohh, nearly forgot.... we had also seen the biggest..(picture number 8)😂😂,
      We had an emotional moment with our guide and walked to our Tea house for the night. It was so luxury, ensuite with free hot shower and electricity, very special. We had a lovely dinner with Gombu and Sange and gave them our tips of appreciation. We treated ourselves to sizzling chicken and some treats from the local mini mart as a reward!
      We fly out of the Lukla the dangerous airport 😬 at 8.30 tomorrow morning and back to Kathmandu where we have booked a delux room with a bath for the next few days for abit of relaxation. We can't wait to eat fried chicken and take a chill as we are exhausted now!
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    • Day 17

      16. Fun Facts - Delayed Plane

      May 19, 2023 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

      Fun facts, whilst waiting for our very delayed flight:

      Three passes and EBC elevation- 38,138ft each, 78,276ft combined

      Steps in 14 days
      Grace : 458,421 steps
      James : 344,170 steps
      Combined : 802,291 steps.

      We spent 10,000 ruppes per day on average, equivalent to £25 each per day, excluding wifi and showers.

      We saw approx 140 Yaks, Cows / Hybrid Yaks

      We passed 13 horses with unfit people, riding towards Base Camp.

      We saw / heard 1365 people, clearing their throat and spitting. Very common here with the dry mountain air.

      We drank 105 lites of water between us.

      We took 11.5 diamox tablets between us.

      Grace lowest oxygen sats : 85%
      James lowest oxygen sats : 80%

      Grace slipped over 4 times, James narrowly missed 1 time.

      0 blisters-result.

      Very sunburnt nose, twice. Reflection of the snow and low protection from being so high.

      3 dogs adopted following us for a few KM.

      1 cat seen

      13 good friends made.

      7 nights of Yak Poo Fires.

      1 injury, Grace cut foot in shower.

      No bad weather (whilst walking) apart from to cloudy to fly from Lukla.

      Frost on inside of windows - 8 days... Brrrr.

      Max temp 17'c
      Lowest temp -18'c

      Nationalities met-Swiss, American, German, British, French, Korean, Nepalese, Indian, Tibetan and Isrealie.

      2 times snowed, 1 times hailed.

      Avalanches heard 3

      Numerous huge rock fall.

      Farts smelt - at least 8 per day. Altitude doesn't help, definitely not ours. 🙈

      How many times Gombu had showed us people had recently died : 3

      Glaciers crossed 4.

      Sketchy moments on Glaciers 2.

      Photo's taken 1000.

      Go pro footage 3-4hours.

      Toilets which made us feel sick. 6 times.

      Prayer Mani's span, approx 60 times.

      Rocks collected 8 times.

      Monasteries visited 3 times.

      Best place : Dingboche / Namche
      Worse place : Gorak Shep

      Micro Spikes used twice.

      Best mountain - Ama Dablam.

      Best hotel was in Gokyo, worst in Gorak Shep.

      Nepalese children Freinds - 2.

      Helicopter rides 1

      Plane rides 1 (if we ever leave🤣✈️)
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    • Day 7

      Tag 7: Namche Peak/ Aclimatisation:

      October 3, 2023 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      4,7 km, 380m auf, 390m ab

      Wir starteten einen recht einfachen Anstieg. So langsam merkten wir die Höhe. Der Körper hatte irgendwie weniger Kraft bzw. wir wurden immer langsamer während wir hoch gingen. Ein seltsames Gefühl mehr und mehr nach Luft zu schnappen obwohl wir doch so langsam gingen. Aber irgendwie auch aufregend - the Himalaya-Struggle is real sozusagen. Zumindest war das noch der coole Struggle. Der uncoole Struggle waren meine beiden Blasen. Leider hatten wir alle unsere Blasenpflaster in Kathmandu vergessen (ahhhh) und so klebten nun zwei neue, völlig überteuerte Pflaster auf meinen Fersen. Nach rund 30 min, und wieder aua, musste ich nachschauen was los war. Alles ab, die Pflaster wollten nicht haften. Auch die normalen Pflaster waren nach 10 weiteren Gehminuten ab. Was nun? Es half nur noch ein Verband. Wow… aber was solls. Also erste Hilfe von David und weiter ging es auf den Gipfel. Fast alleine saßen wir das erste Mal in rund 4.000 Metern Höhe und der erste 8.000er zeigte sich auch: Hallo Lhotse. Wir waren überwältigt! So majestätisch, ganz in weiß, halb in den Wolken aber wir konnten ihn sehen. Wir waren erfürchtig und gleichzeitig total aus dem Häuschen. Der Blick auf den Mount Everest sollte uns auch heute noch verwährt bleiben.
      Auf dem Weg nach unten gingen wir einen anderen Weg und da trafen wir sie: die Wandermenschenschlange. Sie schlängelte sich die Treppen hinunter und wir waren bergab laufend in ihr gefangen. Was für ein Downgrade. Namche war Knotenpunkt aller Wander*innen. Der Ort war auf Nepal-Kommerz, Bakeries und Hotels ausgelegt. Sogar einen Irishpub gab es. Irgendwie tat die Zivilisation trotzdem gut, irgendwie verstörte sie uns in unserem Natur-Modus. Zum Glück blieben wir nur zwei Tage. Denn morgen sollte die nächste große Etappe kommen.
      Wir deckten uns noch mal mit neuen Verbänden ein, denn meine Beine/Füße sahen aus… nun ja… richtig lädiert. Aber ich war optimistisch und voller Vorfreude auf den nächsten Ort namens Dole. Die Energie der Berge war da und wir wollten sie alle sehen.
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    • Day 9

      Tag 9: Dole - Machhermo:

      October 5, 2023 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

      5,3 km, 420m auf, 60m ab

      Die Gardinen aufgezogen und die Nase Richtung Himmel: ab dieser Etappe sollte man endlich die richtig hohen Berge sehen. Wir hofften so sehr, dass die Sonne scheinen würde und das tat sie! Endlich war sie da und mit ihr ein klarer, blauer Himmel sowie traumhafte, schneebedeckte Gipfel. Voller Freude starteten wir wie immer sehr früh am Morgen ins Hochgebirge. Auf mittlerweile über 4.000 Meter gab es immer noch viel zu sehen: Die wunderschönen, teils tropischen Wälder hatten wir zwar hinter uns gelassen, aber Wasserfälle, Schmetterlinge, kleine Blumen, volles Gras und natürlich Steine soweit das Auge reichte, prägten die Landschaft. Die Stars aber waren die massiven Berge. Sie ragten aus der Tiefe bis hoch nach oben. Solche Dimensionen hatten wir bisher noch nie gesehen. Alles war größer … viel viel größer und markanter. Die Täler waren tiefer, die Wasserfälle höher und die Höhen unvorstellbar hoch. Wir können die Schönheit der Natur bis heute kaum in Worte fassen.
      Bis Machermo hüpften wir teilweise über den Weg, machten lange Pause, fotografierten jeden Winkel und bewunderten die neue Weite. Wir waren da und die Berge mit uns.
      Im kleinen Örtchen Machermo angekommen, mussten wir völlig erschöpft nach dem Mittag direkt ein Schläfchen machen. Wir merkten nun die Höhe und ruhten uns den Rest des Tages aus.
      In Teehaus lernten wir Melli und Paul kennen. Wir unterhielten uns den ganzen Abend, tauschten Tipps und Erlebnisse aus. Nachts (19:30 Uhr) schauten wir den Sternenhimmel an und sahen eine lange, helle Sternschnuppe. Sie ist bis heute besonders und in tief in unserer Erinnerung.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Purwanchal, Eastern Region, 동부 개발 지구, पूर्वाञ्चल विकास क्षेत्र

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