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  • Day 66

    Ice Sculptures

    February 10, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    From Le Carnaval de Quebec to Winterlude in Ottawa to the Ice Magic Festival in Lake Louise, ice sculpture competitions have been a winter tradition in Canada for decades.

    As good as we humans are at producing amazing works of art from blocks of ice, Mother Nature has it all over us.

    Zoom in to see the intricate lines carved into some of the bergs.
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  • Day 65

    Found Penguins!!!

    February 9, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    We sailed below the 60th parallel last evening at around 8:00 PM, which pretty much brought us into Antarctic waters. The temperature has been steadily dropping and I've had to start layering the few pieces of warm clothing I brought to Argentina.

    This morning, Brenda woke up, pulled open the curtains and said, "Oh, there are two ships out there." The thing is, she hadn't put on her glasses and the ships were actually two large icebergs! We were officially in the Antarctic.

    The ship continued sailing south until about 12:30 we arrived at the Schollaert Channel where we found a waddle of penguins (yep, that's what you call a group of penguins) floating along on a small iceberg. Listening to the attached video, you can hear our excitement.

    As we continued through the channel, we saw more and more, and larger and larger ice floes, spotted some humpback whales, and some breathtaking scenery before we arrived at our second stop, Paradise Bay. Here we saw another waddle of penguins perched upon a distant hill (too far off to photograph) and more humpback whales feeding in the distance. Aside from the fact that the bay is an inlet protected from the sometimes harsh waters beyond the bay, I really wouldn't consider it paradise by any stretch of the imagination.

    Being here is almost like being on a different planet, so rugged and inhospitable is the environment. But it is also strikingly beautiful in its own way. Sadly, because of we foolish humans, the continent is rapidly disintegrating and, unless mankind acts responsibly and quickly, will not be around for future generations to enjoy.

    We're glad we got to see it, cold, snow, and all.
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  • Day 64

    The REAL End Of The World

    February 8, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    Before going to bed last night, we were informed that the ship would be arriving at Cape Horn at 6:00am.

    Brenda and I are almost always conscious by that time of day, but just to be certain to see the Cape, we set an alarm for 5:55. Well, wouldn't you know it? The only morning we were sleeping soundly that early, we were awakened by an alarm!

    We threw on some warm clothes, made our way up to Deck 15 and braved the wind, cold and sleet to see the lighthouse and Cape Horn Monument that are built on the very tip of the continent. The Monument honors the mariners who lost their lives on the more than four hundred ships that sank here.

    And now it's on to Antarctica.
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  • Day 63

    It's The End Of The World!!!

    February 7 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    After four days at sea, we awoke this morning to our first glimpse of the rugged and craggy but very beautiful Marshall mountains of Patagonia. Now I understand the clothing line's logo

    The ship docked in Ushuaia, the southernmost city on the planet, whose motto is "the end of the world, the beginning of everything." Located right at the bottom of the continent, the city is renowned for the high winds that frequently buffet the city, today being no exception. Surprisingly, despite being so close to Antarctica, the lowest temperature on record is -21 °C! I've experienced much colder days in Montreal and Ottawa.

    Also surprisingly, this extremely remote city is home to over 82,000 people.

    After exploring the town a little, we went for a ride on the End of the World Train, a short sightseeing tour through the Tierra del Fuego National Park just outside the city. The railway was originally built to transport prisoners from Ushuaia to the Patagonian prison twenty-five kilometers away. When the prison was closed in 1947, the railway ceased operations and fell into disrepair before being resurrected as a tourist attraction in the 1990s.

    In the end, the ride was a little underwhelming, although the scenery was quite beautiful.

    Sadly, the only penguins we found today were in shop windows.
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  • Day 59

    Find Penguins

    February 3 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    I've never been able to figure out why this app is called "Find Penguins," but, with good reason, I'm borrowing the name as the title to this post.

    I guess it takes a special kind of stupid to travel over 11,000 kilometers to escape our Canadian winter only to hop on a ship en route to the Antarctic, but that's exactly what we've done.

    Ok, it's not going to be anything like Shackleton's expeditions, but over fourteen days we will be stopping in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, and cruising around Cape Horn, before heading back North for stops in the Falklands and Montevideo.

    We're not sure if we'll see any penguins way down at the end of the world, but we're pretty sure to spot some icebergs and maybe some whales.

    As for finding penguins, the Falklands are home to more penguins than people, so we're pretty certain we'll find some there. 🐧 🐧 🐧
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  • Day 49

    El Gordo Vegano

    January 24 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Both of us have been dragging our butts for the last ten days or so because of one of those nasty summer colds.

    Feeling a little more human today, we ventured to Belgrano, a new part of town for us, to try out another highly rated vegan restaurant, El Gordo Vegano (The Fat Vegan). Not a Michelin Guide restaurant, but a cozy little place that serves us really good vegan versions of comfort food.

    Brenda had their spinach and mushroom omelet, and I had an enormous "Churrasquito" sandwich, a grilled slab of grilled seitan smothered in chimichurri, grilled peppers, lettuce, tomatoes, ranch dressing and crispy potato matchsticks. As if that wasn't enough, it came with a side of slaw and a heap of roast potatoes.

    At the end of the meal, our server tried to convince us to try one of their small croissants for dessert, but we cried uncle. We did, however, opt to bring two "little" croissants home to have with dinner. When the waiter handed me the bag they were in, I almost dropped it because they were so unexpectedly heavy. Each croissant filled a bread plate, was filled with pastry cream, and was topped with vanilla icing and diced almonds. There was no dinner tonight, only the croissant and a cup of tea.

    The Fat Vegan indeed!
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  • Day 40

    As Cataratas do Iguaçu

    January 15 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Puerto Iguazu, the town we're based in for our visit to the Falls, has very little to offer other than a lot of tourist shops, a slot machine casino, and parrilla restaurants. We struggled to find vegetarian food on menus, forget about vegan. On Saturday, we were kind of regretting having booked a three night stay here.

    Sunday's spectacular trip to explore the Argentine side of the Falls did a lot to ease the pain and reinforced our desire to visit their Brazilian side.

    Sunday night, we set our alarms early and caught the 7:30 bus, hoping to beat the crowds on this Monday morning. The forecast was calling for light rain all morning, but we found blue skies above when we arrived at the Falls' Brazilian visitor center. From there, we rode an open topped bus deep into the rain forest and then walked along a concrete path, taking us deeper still.

    Through the forest canopy, we began catching glimpses of the spectacle to come, eventually arriving at a platform that gave us an unrestricted view.

    Wow!

    Yesterday, from up close, we thought the Falls were impressive, but viewed from the Brazilian side, one sees just how vast the entire waterfall system really is. On top of that, with the early morning sun shining down, the mist created by the cascading water supplied us with rainbow after rainbow.

    At one point, the path extends out over the water and offers an unrestricted view of the millions of gallons of water pouring down from above and rushing under your feet. Enjoying this view, however, comes with a price: no one escapes without a good soaking by the mist.

    There truly are no words to describe this Wonder of the World, and sadly, the pictures CANNOT do it justice, but the memories will remain.

    So, in the end, we're glad we spent the extra day to look at Falls from both sides now, from up and down, and still somehow.....d'oh!

    Sorry Joni.
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  • Day 38–41

    Iguazu Falls

    January 13 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    My beautiful wife's birthday present to me this year was an excursion to visit a Unesco World Heritage site, the Iguazu Falls.

    THE WHAT?!?

    Most of us in North America know, or have visited, Niagara Falls, and have likely heard of Victoria Falls. But Iguazu, Nah.

    The Falls are located at the borders of Argentina, Paraguay, and Brazil, and form the border of Argentina and Brazil.

    The Iguazú Falls are a set of 275 waterfalls that reach up to 80 meters in height, and are declared one of the new Seven Natural Wonders of the World.

    While Niagara is surrounded by tacky neon signs, Iguazu is seated in the midst of a lush tropical rain forest, forty minutes from the nearest town. Niagara consists of three Falls, The Horseshoe, The American, and the Bridal Veil, all easily accessible on foot. The hundreds of falls in Iguazu are spread out over 3.5 km of the Iguazu River. There are 8 km of trails in Argentina available to explore the site and another 1.5 km in Brazil.

    The tallest waterfall at Iguazu Falls is called ‘Devil’s Throat’ and it has a drop of 82 meters. On the other hand, Niagara Falls,  has a maximum drop of 51 meters. 

    Apparently, when Eleanor Roosevelt visited Iguazu, she said, "Poor Niagara".

    Unfortunately, at the time of our visit, the Devil's Throat trail was closed, but what we got to see was nonetheless breathtaking. The pictures and video posted here really don't show the magnificence, nor the magnitude of this wonder of nature. Despite temperatures in the low thirties, we hardly noticed the heat thanks to the shade provided by the rain forest canopy and the awesome vistas at every turn.

    The Argentine government has done a remarkable job by installing easily walkable pathways in very remote areas, even over water.

    And of course, I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the throngs of coati that were hanging around food stalls and food courts. One of them was sniffing around Brenda's backpack, hoping she'd hand it one of the apples it contained. They're very cute, but there are many signs posted reminding us that they are not pets and warning of their bites.

    We've read that one goes to the Argentine side of the Falls for the close-up experience and to the Brazilian side for the views. I can't imagine them being more beautiful, but we'll find out for ourselves when we visit Brazil tomorrow!
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  • Day 32

    The Michelin Man

    January 7 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Aside from the sunny warm weather and wonderful people, one of the nicest things about Argentina is how affordable everything is for tourists. Despite having elected a new president who promised to get the economy back on track, inflation continues to soar and the peso's value keeps dropping.

    The peso, as I write this, is trading at just under 800 to the Canadian dollar, which allows Brenda and me to partake in luxuries that we wouldn't back home.

    For my birthday, Brenda invited me to Sacro, a Michelin Guide restaurant that has great reviews, and serves an entirely plant based menu. The ambience and decor was incredible, service was impeccable and the food was art on a plate.

    The entire menu is designed to be shared, and for starters, we chose three dishes. First was the seasonal cheese plate that consisted of Camembert and Blue spirulina and was served with kimchi, a creamy dill and lime sauce, sweet crackers and pickles. Then came the activated charcoal empanada, a pitch black pastry stuffed with mushrooms, and served with harissa on the side. Last, but not least was the Avocado Masala, a breaded half avocado served on a pool of curried yogurt with grilled potato flatbread. Needless to say, all were scrumptious.

    Then we moved on to the main courses. By this time, we were already getting full, but we soldiered on. First up was a bowl of sweet potato ravioli bathed in soubise (an onion based bechamel), and topped with grilled oyster mushrooms and funghi caviar. Next up was a peruvian inspired dish: Lion's Mane mushroom steak anticuchero style (marinated in vinegar and spices then grilled) served with Huancaino potatoes ( boiled potatoes in a spicy, creamy sauce made of queso fresco and grilled yellow pepper, red onion and garlic.

    You'd think that was enough, but NOOOOO! I had to have dessert, so we split a lovely individual Avocado lime pie made with condensed coconut milk and accompanied by candied pistachios. Mmmmm...

    Rather than stick with one wine for all these diverse flavors, we went with four different wines by the glass.

    This was probably the best dining experience of my life. Everything was incredibly creative, flavorful and pretty much perfect. There may be a return trip there before we leave Argentina.

    I'd hate to think what a meal like that would have cost in Vancouver, but including tip, Brenda spent $117.00 CDN to celebrate with me!

    Only four days later, we went for lunch at another Michelin Guide restaurant, Chui. The atmosphere there is much more casual than Sacro as it's located in a semi-open-air converted warehouse with brick walls, an open-air garden section and an open kitchen. The menu reflects the setting, serving more common dishes like tacos, sandwiches and pizza, all plant-based, of course.

    We started with a plate of wonderful grilled sourdough toast and a mixed mushroom paté, which although delicious, was very poorly presented. The first thing that came to my mind was one of the many stepped-in piles of doggy-doo we see on sidewalks here in BA. Please folks, put it in a ramekin next time.

    Next was a trio of Birria style tacos, cauliflower, cabbage, anticuchera sauce and avocado. They were quite delicious, if a little on the salty side.
    Finally, we had pizza, cooked in a wood oven and topped with sweet potato, pickled oyster mushrooms, basil pesto and cashew. This too, I found to be overly salty, but otherwise enjoyable. The crust was fantastic. Brenda didn't care for the flavor combinations, and, IF we return, we wouldn't order it again.

    I had a couple of Stella Artois to wash it all down and the bill was $36.00 CDN including tip.

    And so, four days, two Michelin Guide restaurants, and who knows how many calories later, I believe I may start looking like the Michelin Man himself!
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  • Day 29

    Hamburguesas

    January 4 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Argentina is well known for the abundance and quality of their beef. According to Wikipedia, Argentine annual consumption of beef has averaged 100 kg per capita, and approached 180 kg per capita during the 19th century! Pass the Lipitor, please. But it's not all about the steaks. This carnivorous nation has a love affair with anything meat related, from milanesas (pork veal or chicken cutlets) to chorizo, beef ribs, and lamb.

    However, the humble hamburger is probably one of the most popular go-to meals around. All the major fast food chains are present, along with an endless array of local burger joints of all calibers. There are even a couple of very good vegan burger joints here in B.A.

    We were in a supermarket yesterday that had 2/3 of a 15 meter long freezer aisle dedicated to an endless variety of burgers. The other third was for chicken nuggets. Oh, and across the aisle was another 7.5 meters of freezer filled with vegan burger options.

    Anyone for a nice green salad?
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