Spain
Arzúa

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    • Day 45

      Walking w a Friend to Amenal

      November 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

      We met Paul from Ontario last night in our hostel. Since it is the end of the Camino season we were the only people there last night. We enjoyed dinner together last night & walked most of today together. The walk seems so much shorter when you're talking with a friend. I didn't take many pics today. It was a beautiful sunny day in the low 60's perfect for walking. Many woodland paths & small villages with chickens, sheep & horses.

      Hard to believe tomorrow is the last leg of our Camino adventure!
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    • Boente to Salceda

      October 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      21km of mostly beautiful rural paths and an hour of rain.

      We planned for an early start to enable us to avoid possible rain patches with strategic coffee breaks. Down to the bar for 7:00am breakfast and found the place in darkness. We returned to our room to pack up and be on our way and found breakfast in full swing at 7:30 as we went down to leave.

      So refuelled we walked in darkness with a headlamp for 40 minutes until first light. For 8km the Camino followed a country path below overhanging trees up and down across several small river valleys until our coffee and cake stop in Arzúa.

      Arzúa also gave us access to an ATM to replenish cash and a farmacia for blister dressings and Vitamin I (ibuprofen). It would have been nice to check out the weekly street market but rain was predicted and we moved on.

      Leaving Arzúa through unpaved country lanes we encountered more of the eucalyptus groves we had seen yesterday. There are 400k hectares of Aussie eucalyptus forests in Galicia. Saw some fine old Stringy Barks.

      We stopped for a lunch of empanadas at Casa Do Hórreo in Ferreira just 3.5km short of our destination for the day. It started to rain and continued quite heavily for an hour so we stayed under cover for dessert and coffee. With no letup in the rain we donned our ponchos and walked on in the now easing rain and continued onto our accommodation.

      Now after dinner we are drying wet gear for tomorrow’s predicted downpour.
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    • Day 12

      Seventh day

      April 18 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Hola it’s Eloise

      Today we walked 10 Oman’s it was very cold in the morning.

      We saw lots of beautiful plants and a cool painting of a dog 🐶.

      Today’s Spanish word of the day is Bonito (bon-ee-toe) which means pretty just like the flowers we saw were Bonito.

      Hope you have a good day

      From Eloise

      P.S
      The orange juice here is AMAZING!
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    • Day 9

      Day 5 - Arzua to Salceda

      October 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      A very short walk today and in much cooler conditions 😄. Again, the Way was beautiful, with many tree lined pathways. We had a lovely foggy morning; always a nice way to start. My post yesterday failed to mention a Camino Angel story that happened to me; I was taking the first alternate/complementary path, which was very shady and, upon coming back into the sun, realised that I had dropped my hat! I was all for retracting my steps - no matter how far - to retrieve it as that hat came with me through the Via Francigena, and I've been walking with it for years! My walking companion (one of the ACU group) thought I was crazy and she, an Angel herself was all ready to wait for me, but I was determined! Low and behold, I'd only gone about 300m and walking up the hill where my Camino Angels, a Spanish couple with my hat in hand! I was so grateful and enthusiastic with my "muchas gracias'". Also, today, I briefly talked to an 80 year old woman from Boston who is walking the Camino solo. She's staying in our accommodation tonight, and I'm hoping to speak to her some more tonight. Finally, I will mention how strange it is to see gum leaves under foot as you are walking in a European country and then see the gum trees alongside the path!Read more

    • Day 56

      Salceda (14km / 739.4km)

      June 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

      Our first rainy day where we got to use all our rain gear which performed excellently. Good shopping Jane! Ironically we left early today to miss the heat. We started in the drizzle and walked up the hill for first breakfast, not wanting to give the rude bar owner any more of our patronage!
      The light rain continued most the day and then we got caught in a proper shower for 20 minutes. This made a mess of the muddy road but was actually quite enjoyable as a change.
      After the shower we stopped for a longer than usual lunch - a burger which went down well before continuing onto our lovely accommodation for the night.
      We are seeing less and less people we know as we get to the end which shows how much faster others are going. A lady passed us this morning who started on 10 May so she will do it in 30 days. 30 to 35 days seems quite common but they are exhausted at the end of the day and almost all carrying injuries. They are focusing on the physical aspect. There are a lot doing it in around 40 to 45 days and then people like us in 50! (We feel very Blessed to have the time).
      We had a very nice dinner at our Albergue - another Pilgrim menu of the day. We sat at a table with the 5 of us and then we invited an older American to join us too. We have bumped into him a few times. His wife died last year. He says he is happy to do anything on his own but he really doesn’t like eating on his own. He was so thankful for our invitation that he paid for dinner for everyone. I told him to invite himself to any pilgrim table - he would always be welcome, he said he knows. We are expecting another rainy day tomorrow for our last full day walk before arriving in Santiago on Friday.
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    • Day 41

      Ferreiros

      October 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

      Długi dzień bo prawie 30 km. Droga wiodła w zasadzie przez cały czas większymi lub mniejszymi pagórkami. Było pochmurnie, a ostatnie 5 km padał deszcz. Dość często pojawiały się wioseczki na szczęście co dawało możliwość odpoczynku w barze.
      W Leboreiro jest Iglesias de Santa Maria z malowidłami ściennymi z XV wieku dość dobrze zachowane oraz bardzo ładna rzeźba Matki Bożej. Legenda mówi, że została ona znaleziona koło fontanny z wodą, świeciła i otoczona była przyjemnym zapachem. Mieszkańcy wioski przenosili figurkę kilkakrotnie do pobliskiego kościoła, ale zawsze wracała na swoje miejsce przy fontannie. Dopiero jak zmieniono nazwę kościoła na Santa Maria to figurka Matki Bożej pozostała w kościele. Zaraz koło kościoła widoczny jest dość dobrze zachowany budynek, dawny szpital dla pielgrzymów.
      Potem wędrowaliśmy przez parę ciekawych mostów, które częściowo pamiętały czasy rzymskie do Melide znajdującego się w centrum geograficznym Galicji, stolicy dań z ośmiornicy, i dodatkowo bardzo urokliwe miasteczko. Dla tych co lubią ośmiornice to jest odjazd. Podają ja w wielu miejscach i dominuje gotowanie w wodzie ale można ją przyrządzać na różne inne sposoby, między innymi też na grillu. Doskonała rzecz.
      Ciekawe miejsce warte zapamiętania na przyszłość to Ribadiso da Baixo. Po przejściu kolejnego bardzo starego mostu po prawej stronie znajduje się dawny szpital, który został odrestaurowany i służy teraz jako Alberque, wyglądał bardzo imponująco,super miejsce na dobry nocleg. Z kolei następne miasto Arzua bardzo nudne i długie, jedyną jego zaletą są przepyszne sery.
      Cała okolica jeśli chodzi o jedzenie to słynie z owoców morza, głównie ośmiornic ale również właśnie z serów.
      Wierzyć się nie chce ze została tylko jedna noc przed Santiago.
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    • Day 44

      Albergue Camino Das Ocas

      October 31, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      We continued our 18.7k day, through the small city of Azrua, with quick stops at the supermarket for wine, bread, cheese and ham for our afternoon meal. And at the Pharmacia, to replenish the ibuprofen supplies! :-)

      We walked to our night's destination, an Albergue/Pension that is actually 1/2 mile off the Camino, away from any town. But it is in a good spot for our walking schedule, less than 20k to get here. Less than 20k to tomorrow's stop!

      Lots of hilly, up & down walking this afternoon. No more mountains, but the river valleys are frequent and steep.

      We could be walking through NH or Vermont cow country, instead of Galicia!

      Two more days!
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    • Day 45

      Arzua

      October 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Day 41 - nothing much to report. Todays short walk - again about 9 or 10 miles was pleasant. Morning mist, cute towns, dairies and paths through eucalyptus (non-native) forests. Our destination was Arzua, a town famous for its local cheese - which we tasted and found quite bland. The town of Arzua itself is quite nondescript. It would have been better to have stayed in an Albergue in one of the small villages.
      As I walked into town I saw a man making paella, so I brought Ginny and Steve back to it for an early dinner.
      We have 2 more days to get to Santiago. If I had followed the stages strictly, I would have reached in 33 days. As it is I will have taken 43 days. This is partly because I took 5 days off in some of the more interesting towns and secondly because in the beginning I walked shorter distances in order to toughen up my knees. Now that I’m nearing the end there’s almost a feeling of anti-climax. I’m hoping that the walk to Finisterre will help me overcome feelings of withdrawal that so many pilgrims have expressed. My plan is to spend a few days on the coast and process this whole journey and experience.
      You’ll be hearing more from me….
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    • Day 57

      Vilamaior (18.6km / 758km)

      June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      We were prepared for rain but it was a sunny morning for our last longish day of walking. Tomorrow is more about the finish than the walk.
      We continued through forests, mostly in the shade but there was one last long hill to climb to remind us we were not done yet. In places there were pools of water and very muddy tracks after several days of afternoon and night storms.
      We walk around the airport and watched a plane coming into land just above us before enjoying our last lunch! Hard to believe …
      It really isn’t anywhere near as crowded walking as we thought it might be. We have been avoiding the popular stage start / end points which has helped. We have heard that there are more than a thousand pilgrims arriving every day into Santiago and then hang around for a few days. We are looking forward to catching up with a few of them.
      We are however noticing a significant jump in the prices of everything as we near the end. Lunches or light meals that were costing 6 or 7 euro are now over 10 and we used to be able to get a piece of cake for 1 or 2 euro and that can now be over 4! A good way to cut down in the eating when the walking is done.
      The 5 of us have been walking together now for a week which has been nice and very different to walking independently and we shared our last dinner on the walk in our Albergue, Casa de Amancio that was awesome! We shared some scallops to start and ended with the most delicious desserts and a herbal liqueur. Louise was kind enough to pay for us all.
      Off to bed now and ready for the last 9km tomorrow.
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    • Day 39

      Arzúa to O Pedrouzo

      June 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Weather was good today, quite hot so I enjoyed the shaded paths I walked on. Met Nicki, Jacky, Puk, Ying, Lee and Duncan. Also had a blether with a couple of young lads from Greenock who overheard my accent.
      Stopped at a great place for lunch and had Caldo Gallego, Croquettes and Zorza. Arrived in O Pedrouzo and everything was shut as it is the Sabbath. Absolutely shiting it for finishing tomorrow.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Arzúa, Arzua

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