Spanje
Arzúa

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    • Dag 45

      Arzua

      14 oktober 2022, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Day 41 - nothing much to report. Todays short walk - again about 9 or 10 miles was pleasant. Morning mist, cute towns, dairies and paths through eucalyptus (non-native) forests. Our destination was Arzua, a town famous for its local cheese - which we tasted and found quite bland. The town of Arzua itself is quite nondescript. It would have been better to have stayed in an Albergue in one of the small villages.
      As I walked into town I saw a man making paella, so I brought Ginny and Steve back to it for an early dinner.
      We have 2 more days to get to Santiago. If I had followed the stages strictly, I would have reached in 33 days. As it is I will have taken 43 days. This is partly because I took 5 days off in some of the more interesting towns and secondly because in the beginning I walked shorter distances in order to toughen up my knees. Now that I’m nearing the end there’s almost a feeling of anti-climax. I’m hoping that the walk to Finisterre will help me overcome feelings of withdrawal that so many pilgrims have expressed. My plan is to spend a few days on the coast and process this whole journey and experience.
      You’ll be hearing more from me….
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    • Dag 57

      Vilamaior (18.6km / 758km)

      8 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      We were prepared for rain but it was a sunny morning for our last longish day of walking. Tomorrow is more about the finish than the walk.
      We continued through forests, mostly in the shade but there was one last long hill to climb to remind us we were not done yet. In places there were pools of water and very muddy tracks after several days of afternoon and night storms.
      We walk around the airport and watched a plane coming into land just above us before enjoying our last lunch! Hard to believe …
      It really isn’t anywhere near as crowded walking as we thought it might be. We have been avoiding the popular stage start / end points which has helped. We have heard that there are more than a thousand pilgrims arriving every day into Santiago and then hang around for a few days. We are looking forward to catching up with a few of them.
      We are however noticing a significant jump in the prices of everything as we near the end. Lunches or light meals that were costing 6 or 7 euro are now over 10 and we used to be able to get a piece of cake for 1 or 2 euro and that can now be over 4! A good way to cut down in the eating when the walking is done.
      The 5 of us have been walking together now for a week which has been nice and very different to walking independently and we shared our last dinner on the walk in our Albergue, Casa de Amancio that was awesome! We shared some scallops to start and ended with the most delicious desserts and a herbal liqueur. Louise was kind enough to pay for us all.
      Off to bed now and ready for the last 9km tomorrow.
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    • Dag 39

      Arzúa to O Pedrouzo

      11 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Weather was good today, quite hot so I enjoyed the shaded paths I walked on. Met Nicki, Jacky, Puk, Ying, Lee and Duncan. Also had a blether with a couple of young lads from Greenock who overheard my accent.
      Stopped at a great place for lunch and had Caldo Gallego, Croquettes and Zorza. Arrived in O Pedrouzo and everything was shut as it is the Sabbath. Absolutely shiting it for finishing tomorrow.
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    • Dag 32

      People

      23 augustus 2022, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      Today I met Joe (Ireland) and Isabel (Germany). They met for the first time last year, doing the Camino del Norte. This time they came to do the Camino Primitivo together. The Primitivo and the Francés joined at Melide, where we were yesterday.
      We kept passing each other today, and finally walked a few kms together and shared a table at a cafe.
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    • Dag 39

      Stage 36: Arzúa-O Pedrouzo

      21 oktober 2022, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      19.3 km/11.9 miles, 60° all day, about 6.5 hours
      I slept in late till 8:40, knew I was exhausted from yesterday so didn't set the alarm. So I had a record late start of 10:00. One advantage was I had the trail to myself for long stretches. I was all suited up due to the 100% chance of rain prediction but it only came in fits and starts around noon. Stopped for coffee, then for lunch around 2:00 during a brief downpour, then on into O Pedrouzo in sunshine again.
      Tomorrow I'll be walking into Santiago, the goal and endpoint of this pilgrimage for me. A newbie just starting off in Sarria asked me a couple days ago "so why did you decide to do the Camino?" and all I could say was "I'm still working that out". What I've managed to come up with so far is (and all of them equally important):
      As a personal challenge and adventure
      A 500 mile act of contrition
      As a prayer for forgiveness and in gratitude
      A way to gain clarity about my life- past, present and future
      I'm going to try to get up and started early tomorrow in hopes of making it to the noon pilgrim's mass in the cathedral. Also have to claim a box at the post office and a suitcase at Express Bourricot, check into my hotel, get cleaned up and rearrange my stuff to take a bus to Porto on Sunday. And just like that, it will be over, the daily forward momentum of walking to Santiago. What will life be like, post-pilgrimage? I guess I will find out.
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    • Dag 12

      Day 28 Melide to Salcema 604 km

      20 oktober 2023, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      I must apologize as I did complete the Primitivo however I am continuing to walk. I am not completely finished walking yet. I am now on the Camino Francis route to Santiago 27 km away but I am doing it in 2 days as I have had some rather hard days.

      Pouring with rain this morning so there are not many pictures.

      It did stop off and on and gradually improved towards the afternoon.

      I can't believe how many bars are on this section
      There are so many more pilgrims. The atmosphere is different. Some people don't even say "Hola" when you great them🤔

      The landscape is so flat now. I walked by an active logging site:
      Falling, removing branches, decking and loading. Unsure of the type of trees as it was dark.
      Very interesting.

      Beautiful scents from the eucalyptus trees.

      I saw my first pilgrim with a dog walking. It barked excessively at me..... The owner said it was a lovely rescue dog that sometimes does that to people🧐 It was part blue heeler so no surprise.

      I am staying at an Albergue that I stayed at last year. It is close to the restaurant with the excellent food. I met Stacey from Maine and Denise from the Hamburg area, and we went out for a fantastic dinner. Fresh scallops and the best salad with goat cheese I have had in Spain yet👏🥳 Delicious!!

      2 more sleeps until Santiago. It will be so fun as Denise, Stacey and I will see Mass together on Sunday. The botafumeira will be used.
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    • Dag 34

      So close now!

      22 oktober 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      I think I’m getting wimpier rather than stronger lately, or maybe it’s just that the bounce has been ground out of my trail shoes. Today was a very average length day but the last eight K seemed to take forever! The state of our shoes has become a frequent topic of conversation lately, even more common than describing the state of our feet.

      As Morgan and I were eating breakfast this morning a parade of men in blaze orange started pouring into the small bar. Hunting season! A familiar sight. Another sight at the end of the day? A rather fit young man skinny dipping in the very cold river by our albergue. I’ll just show pictures of us soaking our tired feet.

      Morgan pointed out earlier today that we were basically one Birkie away from Santiago. Ha!

      There are threats of turning tomorrow, our penultimate day of walking, into a bit of a pub crawl. We are excited to be close to the end while also dreading the goodbyes. Work and other realities are beginning to come to mind more, and making the day a sort of party has some appeal. We’ll see what actually happens.
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    • Dag 42

      Into Arca

      29 oktober 2023, Spanje ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

      Today we walked into a tiny village called Arca which is near O Pedruoso. We are within 20 km of the cathedral in Santiago!

      We again didn’t take many pictures due to the rain but it was not nearly as rainy today as yesterday. We had a very gentle walk through countryside and planted eucalyptus groves as well as through villages and deciduous oak groves. There were a couple sections next to the highway too. Some of our Camino friends were talking about the movies fan’s documentaries about the Camino. One thing they never show is how much of the Camino is on paved roads and next to highways!

      Today we stopped for coffee early and later got a sandwich in a village. They brought us little bowls of callous con garbanzos, a soup made of garbanzo beans, broth, and tripe. It was really good! I’m not sure I’m going to start putting tripe in our shopping list but it was very good in a soup.

      We are in an unusual little casa rural, an inn. It has rooms and a little restaurant next door. We like the little restaurants in inns; you don’t have to help searching for food, and the food is usually pretty good. Lots of meat and fried potatoes, but it’s usually tasty. This village probably has 100 people max so I’m glad food is easy to find here today!

      Tomorrow we are on to Santiago!
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    • Dag 27

      Boimil - O Pedrouzo

      28 oktober 2023, Spanje ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

      Habe schlecht geschlafen, dabei war ich an den zwei Flaschen Wein die getrunken wurden gar nicht beteiligt. Bestimmt hätte ich damit besser geschlafen, aber das wandern wäre mir sicherlich schwerer gefallen. Noch schwerer als es heute bei dem Wetter ohnehin war.

      Unsere Ponchos sind beide nun zerrissen. Obwohl das Material vermuten lässt dass es ripstop ist, ist es das aber nicht und das kleinste Loch wird vom Sturm aufgerissen. Weggeschmissen haben wir sie aber noch nicht, denn bis Santiago sind es immer noch 20 km und das Wetter hält!

      Mit den heutigen 27km waren wir um 13:40 Uhr fertig und checkten in die örtliche, öffentliche Herberge ein. Bei all den Pilgerern heute auf dem Weg, hatte ich wirklich bedenken, dass hier vieles schon belegt wäre. Ist aber überhaupt nicht der Fall.

      Auf dem Camino Frances sind wir heute ungefähr zwei Stunden gewandert und ich habe mehr Pilgerer gesehen als in der gesamten Zeit auf dem CdN. Erst war ich mir unsicher mit diese Behauptung, aber dann stoppten wir in der ersten Bar und hier waren, kamen und gingen so viele Leute. Zudem gingen noch unzählige vorbei. Wir waren wirklich erschrocken wie viel hier doch los ist. In der Bar war man nicht allein unter einheimischen, sondern alleine mit den anderen Pilgerern.

      Die Wege sind durch das Wetter sehr aufgeweicht und durch die vielen vielen Leute, sehr ausgetreten. Ich kann nicht mehr eben stehen bleiben um pipi zu machen, weil immer jemand in der Nähe ist. Der Gedanke den Camino Frances nochmal zu laufen, haben wir durch diese wenigen Eindrücke, direkt fallen gelassen.
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    • Dag 49

      Vilamaior

      6 oktober 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Przewedrowalismy dzisiaj około 20 km. Jest to ostatnia noc przed wejściem do Santiago. Dochodzimy do celu, ale czy do końca? Myślę, że koniec okazał się bardziej odległy niż się wydawało, ale za to emocje i przemyślenia będą nam towarzyszyć przez długi czas, aż wszystko się ułoży albo nie ułoży w głowie. Na razie nie ma szans aby to wszystko ogarnąć. Poza osobistym zaangażowaniem nie byłoby możliwe aby to dokonać, bez waszego wsparcia i miłości, którą czuliśmy każdego dnia.
      Dotarliśmy do miejsca gdzie od katedry dzieli nas tylko 9 km, także jutro powinniśmy dotrzeć na miejsce około południa.
      W ciągu dzisiejszego dnia dołączyły do nas na trochę Ewa i Julita( Sztokholm) z Polski, także nasza grupa troszkę się powiększyła. Nie było żadnego otwartego kościoła. Nie było też żadnego kamiennego krzyża, tak jakby wszystko już tylko czekało na wejście do Santiago, czyli tam gdzie jest punkt kulminacyjny.
      Pogoda traktuje nas od dłuższego czasu w sposób bardzo łaskawy ( AJ jest 5 raz na Camino Frances I po raz pierwszy w Galicji towarzyszy mu słońce), zapewniając ciepły dzień z lekkim wiaterkiem i cieniem z drzew rosnących wzdłuż drogi.
      To chyba tyle, na razie nie ma szans aby przelać wewnętrzne myśli i przemyślenia w słowa, to chyba przyjdzie później...
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    Arzúa, Arzua

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